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Question on MBK 5512 Mods


bobandshawn

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Hi guys,

Recently picked up one of the MBK 5512's in a M2M deal on the other board. I've drilled the lugs and put on gen bars with the WSO 580's and was wondering if you guys are putting yours on a rivet or oyster bracelet? Additionally, I picked up the WSO insert mentioned here and had a couple of questions about the bezel...

I'm assuming the MBK is gen-spec? 

Does the bezel really pry off easily (as in all the videos)? I'm used to working with the cheapy paper-clip bezels. I'd like to do some case shaping and bezel insert, but I don't want to take any chances on disassembley and  seating of the crown. Thanks in advance, and any ideas/advice you'd like to pass along would be great!

Bob

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I prefer mine on a 9315 or 93150 bracelet unless it's going to be a gilt dial. The bezel comes off super easy exactly like all the videos you see. Slide something under and pry up, it should pop off at a certain point. I wouldn't change the bezel or insert on these. I don't find the WSO inserts to be very accurate. The triangle is too narrow and the pearl is not great. I have been keeping the MBW insert with the kissing 4 and installing a Orfei pearl.

25534655081_7d0670c16a_b.jpg

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5 hours ago, bobandshawn said:

Thanks Umpa...very helpful and I did the fade on both the MBK and the WSO. Leaving the MBK for now...

B

:thumbs: Smart move. The MBW inserts also sit nice and flat. Them and Yuki inserts are closest to gen IMO. The cartel inserts have too much of a cone shape with the center sitting much higher then the outer edge and the WSO have a super narrow triangle at the top. Order the "Generic Illumines Dot for Bezel Insert" from Ofrei.com and enjoy. FYI on two of my MBW inserts I had to slightly widen the pearl opening with a rat tail file.

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"...wondering if you guys are putting yours on a rivet or oyster bracelet?"

Because the 5512 came out in the late 1950s it could have any of the three most popular vintage oyster bracelets...rivet, folded, or solid outer links and many earlier models probably came without a flip lock clasp. I guess bracelet choice should go along with the period the watch was shooting for...square cg, pointed cg, regular cg, and type of dial, MBK being more like the later examples. Many 5512 also came with '5513' dials and case backs.

Nato type straps are good but they can make 'saw marks' on the case back after a while...basically a choice between the hoods chewing the mid case between the lugs or the case back getting roughed up.

With the MBK case, the watch is by default a more modern type with the O ring under the crystal retainer bezel but since it can not be seen, it does not really matter that much. There is also the laser engraved letters/numbers to contend with so if someone wanted a period correct and authenic 5512 a better route would probably be to go for a Yuki case with the appropriate serial number before bezel gaskets (Yuki cases do not have them) and proper dial. Otoh, it is relatively easy to cut the gasket groove in the top of a case to 'go modern'. Another alternative might be the new breed of 'cartel' 5512/13/1680 cases but I have not handled one yet.

 

"I'm assuming the MBK is gen-spec? Does the bezel really pry off easily (as in all the videos)?"   

MBK cases are more or less 'gen spec' except they are 1680 spec inside with 5512/13 spec dial openings. The case neck, bezel, crystal etc is genuine spec. They were made for Eta 2836 and just happen to also accommodate a genuine rolex 1570/5 date movement...but with a 26mm dial. They are probably the best affordable project cases around for Eta projects but not a 'drop in' for a rolex 15xx. The MBK rotating bezels r/r easily but you must be careful not to bend the bezel or it will have tight spots when turning it.

"I'm used to working with the cheapy paper-clip bezels."

Well made 'paper clip' bezels are a viable alternative to snap on bezels for 'tool watches' used under demanding conditions because they will take a knock and not fall off like rolex type snap on bezels. My guess is rolex went to snap on bezels so the gomers at their AD and repair depots could swap rotating bezels and inserts in a hurry without much hassle. Anyone with a razor blade can r/r a rolex snap on bezel but to r/r the bezel from a lowly 'F520117 noobmariner' (for example) without damage separates the repairmen from the repairboys in a hurry. After all, rolex used wire retainer bezels on turnographs, 6536/38 etc and many modern watches still do today. Rotating bezels inside the case ('compressor' type cases etc) is one solution to rotating bezel loss/damage but you have one more crown and potential water leak to contend with plus a drive cog connected to the crown and teeth on the bezel. Outer rotating bezels are more attractive and can be styled to draw attention to the watch and are usually easier to read.

 

Some good info on the 5512:

http://le-monde-edmond.com/5512-submariner-in-depth-review/

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