Some Of The Best Watch Information Ever Posted On The Forums...

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:03 PM

The Radiomir Black Seal® by Panerai

December 11, 2004

Officine Panerai began making wristwatches in the 1930s and the Radiomir Black Seal takes its stylistic form from the 1938 watch that was created for the Royal Italian Navy. Notable for their robustness and reliability, the Radiomir models were made available to watch enthusiasts in the 1990s and have reached cult status.

The Black Seal is a 45 mm ‘time only’ watch with hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Made from a steel alloy of the highest quality, the dial has an unusual 3-dimensional appearance which is achieved by the superimposition of two separate discs: the upper one is black with perforated numerals and hour markers and the lower one is coated with Super Luminova® making the dial visible in the dark.

RADIOMIR BLACK SEAL®

Stainless steel watch equipped with a hand-wound Panerai OP X1 Calibre movement (COSC). Black dial with Arabic numerals, baton hour markers and luminous baton hands, sapphire crystal front and back, 56-hour power reserve, leather strap with hypo-allergenic lining, personalized screw-down crown and buckle, water-resistant to 100 metres. Limited Edition of 1,500 pieces for 2004.

Source: http://www.panerai.com

Courtesey europastar

Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:10 PM

The audacious move of Delaneau

A few short months ago, Delaneau relocated from the airport area to the calm of Geneva’s old town – and not just anywhere, but alongside the august edifice of the St. Pierre Cathedral. The physical move also coincided with Delaneau’s move into the rarefied air of the mechanical watch – and not just any watch, but the technically complex tourbillon.

November 29, 2004, by D. Malcolm Lakin

Delaneau is a relatively small company, too big to be considered an artisan brand, yet too small to be a member of the league of major Swiss manufacturers. Consequently, the brand created its own niche whereby outlandish designs, created from noble metals and exquisite precious stones, were the standard. To complete the timepieces only the finest goldsmiths and stone-setters were used, which by definition means that the series of watches are small and, in many cases, unique pieces.

THE SUN

18 carat white gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case with polished stirrup attachment set with 58 brilliant cut diamonds (0.84 carats), diamond cabochon at each end (0.29 carats) and a crown set with a diamond cabochon (0.10 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, guilloché bottom plate with ‘Clou de Paris’ decoration, tourbillon bridge set with 24 brilliant cut diamonds (0.18 carats), guilloché blue mother-of-pearl dial with ‘Sun’ decoration, leather strap with white gold folding clasp.

LEAVES AND RED BERRIES

18 carat red gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case, with polished stirrup attachment embellished with a ruby cabochon at each end (0.46 carats) and crown set with a ruby cabochon (0.16 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, guilloché bottom plate with ‘Sun’ decoration, tourbillon bridge with ‘Leaf’ engraving, mother-of-pearl dial with ‘Leaf’ and ruby ‘Berries’ engraving, leather strap with red gold folding clasp.

IRIS

18 carat white gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case with polished stirrup attachment, embellished with a diamond cabochon at each end (0.29 carats) and a crown set with a diamond cabochon (0.10 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, with guilloché bottom plate with ‘Sun’ decoration, tourbillon bridge set with 24 brilliant cut diamonds (0.18 carats). Hard cloisonné enamel dial engraved with Iris design, leather strap with white gold folding clasp.

THE SUN AND THE EAGLE

18 carat red gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case with polished stirrup attachment embellished with a diamond cabochon at each end (0.29 carats) and a crown set with a diamond cabochon (0.10 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, guilloché bottom plate with Clou de Paris decoration, tourbillon bridge with miniature ‘Eagle’ engraving, hard cloisonné enamel dial with engraving and ‘Sun’ décor, leather strap with red gold folding clasp.

Designed by a woman for women

“Delaneau is a brand for women,” explains Cristina Thévenaz, the brand’s Creative Director. “So when we decided to create a tourbillon, it wasn’t simply a question of taking the smallest tourbillon we could find and then placing it in a case embellished with precious stones. It had to be something uniquely feminine with a visual appearance as delicate as the tourbillon itself.”

“I’m not a watchmaker, I’m a designer,” Thévenaz continues, “and the ideas that I had for the tourbillon meant that I had to sit with someone who could explain what could or couldn’t be done – and in some instances what technical features could be changed or adapted to achieve the look I wanted. The result was that I spent a lot of time with Christophe Claret in order to get the project underway. Since I was creating a tourbillion for women, it also necessitated foreseeing space for the decoration. In this case I wanted the plate of the watch to be uncluttered in order to achieve the visual effects I was looking for, which included techniques such as enamelling, engraving and elaborate stone-setting.”

The tourbillons have an unusually shaped dec-orated dial that appears to be floating above the movement since it is freed from the insides of the case. In order to counterbalance the cut-away dial, a specially designed tourbillon bridge, suitable for decorating, has been conceived.

RINGS OF TIME AND MATTER – in 18 carat gold set with various precious stones and equipped with quartz movements.

Positive reaction

The results are as surprising as they are pleasing. The first series of 12 tourbillons is now sold and the brand is about to prepare a second series. Asked if the tourbillon was the end of Delaneau’s foray into the world of the mechanical watch, Cristina Thévenaz offered a brief catalogue of a woman’s needs based on both her biological constitution and her emotional needs. The horological results will be there for all to see in the not too distant future, but you can rest assured that the moon will be playing an important role.

Given the quality of the Claret movements and the exquisite aesthetics of Delaneau’s latest de luxe collections, it may well be worth popping into the neighbouring cathedral to ask for some divine help in obtaining one of these mechanical marvels.

Courtesy europastar

Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:17 PM

European Aviation Watch of the Year

December 15, 2004

In the bar of the Aero Club de France in Paris, aeronautic representatives gathered last week for the first European Aviation Watch of the Year Trophy. In addition ot the host country, France and its pilot magazine Volez, the editors from the German Flieger magazine and British Aerospace International, defined the criteria for the pilot watches and an international jury, analysed, scored and voted.

The clear winner was the Fortis Flieger Chronograph.

Peter Peter, Fortis’ CEO, receives the award

from the head of the jury Mrs. Dorine Bourneton.

The Trophy

The winner of the European Aviation Watch of the Year 2004:

Fortis Flieger Chronograph.

Source: Fortis Press Release

Courtesy europastar

Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:20 PM

Krieger Ghost Clear Aluminum

Dec 15, 2004

Mr. Ira Krieger, President of Krieger Watch, which is based in Miami Beach, has forwarded to TimeZone this new ad which will appear in major trade publications in February of 2005.

The clear aluminum watch casing is completely clear, like glass. The domed sapphire crystal on the top and a sapphire crystal on the back provide a display of the ETA caliber 6497 (nee UNITAS). The dial has large Arabic numbers. A deployment buckle with an easily interchangeable band is included. The case measures 52mm.

Clear aluminum is a very expensive material, and is extremely hard to work with. The manufacturing process take more 60 days just to make the clear aluminum material and 60-90 days and several diamond tools, just to manufacture each individual case.

It takes more than 20 steps of mechanical, chemical polishing, drilling, stamping and assembling before the watch takes final shape. Because of this, only 10 cases can be made per day. And the result is that it takes 5-6 months to make each clear aluminum watch. The watch is made in Switzerland.

The piece will be available for sale in February. A substantial waiting list is pending and the firm expect the production to sell out quickly.

Courtesy timezone

Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:25 PM

N E W M o d e l – Tiffany Atlas Hunter Automatic

Dec 15, 2004

The latest from the Atlas collection is the Hunter. Movement is an automatic, base ETA, with COSC certification as a chronometer.

The case, in 18kt yellow gold, measures 39mm. The crystal is sapphire. It comes with a black alligator strap.

MSRP is $6,500.

Courtesy timezone

Posted by: dlgates Dec 15 2004, 07:40 PM

Neo, I know I'm way behind in reading your voluminous and always exciting thread, but just had to comment that the story about Jean Dunand is fascinating! A unique tourbillon design just because of the artistic and technological challenge--now everyone who reads this should understand what "Haute Horologie" really means! Keep up the good work and the wonderful resources you are providing to us all.

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 06:58 AM

Overview of Secondary Watch Marketplace

As dealers in new and pre-owned high-grade wristwatches, we are often asked: "What is the value of this watch?" Believe it or not, there is no simple answer to this question. The most popular response, of course, is: "It is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it." Another common retort might be to ask whether the watch is being bought or sold, consigned, wholesaled, or retailed. Yet another response, especially when it comes to pre-owned watches, is: "Well, it depends on the condition of the watch in question." Some things that may or may not be obvious, but are worthy of exploration, are these basics.

A new or pre-owned watch's value is not a constant -- there are always variables involved, even when it comes to brand-new watches.

A watch's value depends on its condition or grade. Even with brand new watches, for example, there is a difference between LNIB (Like New In Box) and NIB (New In Box). It may be that the watch was only worn one time by a prospective customer, but if there's a scratch or a ding, that impacts the value significantly.

A watch's value is determined in an unregulated marketplace dominated largely by collectors and dealers. Although retail prices are helpful in terms of indicating value, they are usually calculated to reflect the high costs of operating a retail jewelry store. To that end, it is not unusual for some watches to be marked up as much as 100% over dealer's cost. The same is usually true of large vintage watch dealerships located in major metropolitan areas.

Let us first examine the following concept: a watch's value is not constant or consistent. The first thing that comes to mind here is that the value of a watch can change over time. Terms such as supply and demand, economic strength both overseas and in the United States, interest in a particular brand or model, grading, and many other variables might explain why a watch's value might change over time.

However, context still has not been provided. That a watch's value is not a constant with respect to the variables just mentioned, presupposes that the value of this watch is being studied over time using the same pricing source. That just doesn't happen. Remember that collecting watches is still a young hobby, and unlike numismatics or fine art, pricing remains a largely subjective matter. There is no such thing as a price index for fine watches.

While it is true that certain watches (for example, a Rolex Datejust) can be valued without much difficulty, a problem arises when we try to assign a value to a watch which may be rare or unusual. That is when a dealer's experience in the marketplace comes into play. Unfortunately, most dealers simply do not have the financial resources or the experience to buy and sell high-end watches throughout the world. Some might specialize in one particular brand, but the fact of the matter is that in order to learn the marketplace, a dealer must constantly be involved in all levels of the marketplace.

Alas, being that most are typically undercapitalized one-man operations, it is difficult for such dealers to gain extensive experience buying and selling high-end timepieces.

Wholesale is a somewhat confusing term as well since watches (both vintage and modern) are traded in an unregulated market. However, a solid definition would include the fact that wholesale transactions take place on a dealer-to-dealer basis. Since dealers are not licensed as such, who is a dealer is often a matter of interpretation.

In our opinion, a dealer is considered someone who earns his or her living primarily through the buying and selling of wristwatches and pocket watches. Dealers will typically buy watches strictly for resale at a profit, have a valid resale number (thus allowing them to avoid paying sales tax), and be known to other dealers in the industry through their attendance at watch shows and membership in certain organizations such as the IWJG.

In addition, it is generally understood that dealer-to-dealer transactions require immediate payment by cash or check, or terms of less than 30 days. Furthermore, most transactions take place very quickly and often involve multiple purchases. When engaged in a wholesale transaction, dealers generally do not expect to be asked many questions as they would when selling to a retail customer. In other words, wholesale deals are quick and the privileges are few.

Wholesale prices refer, by and large, to the known buy price that at least one dealer is willing to pay for select items. That is to say, when a dealer quotes the wholesale value of a watch, he is referring to a dollar amount that he perceives as the buy price of another dealer. Of course, most dealers typically quote a price that is well below the wholesale value, because there is always the possibility there will not be a buyer at the supposed "wholesale price." If this is, in fact, the case, a dealer may find his capital tied up indefinitely in a watch which may be tough to re-sell. Consequently, most dealers look to limit their exposure as much as possible.

Retail prices, of course, are essentially the wholesale price with a profit margin factored in. Profit margins vary from dealer to dealer, usually depending on their overhead, which might be on the high end if they have a retail store or somewhat lower if they work from home (as many dealers do). A typical dealer's profit ranges from 25% to 35%, but again, the mark-up from wholesale to retail is unregulated.

The retail market is the domain of the collector. Someone who does not make a living buying and selling watches is a retail buyer. Sometimes, a retail buyer might purchase something at just a few percent over what a wholesale buyer might be willing to pay. This is often the result of a dealer's lack of knowledge regarding the rarity or desirability of a given wristwatch. It doesn't happen often, but there are instances where a collector will walk away with an incredible bargain. This writer has seen this happen with his own eyes.

Conversely, the retail buyer might pay multiples of what the watch was purchased at by the dealer. Or, the retail buyer might actually purchase a watch for less than what the dealer paid for it, if the dealer needs to move merchandise and is willing to take a small loss.

We could work our way through many different scenarios, but the key concept here is that in order to stay in business, dealers must buy at wholesale levels (low), and sell at a profit to retail or wholesale customers (high). Collectors, on the other hand, look to buy watches for their collections at a price which makes sense, but are more motivated by their desire to own a given watch, rather than simply making a profit.

Now that we have explored the concept of wholesale and retail values, it is worth discussing how the secondary watch market has evolved over the past several years. Timepieces have clearly emerged as the 21st Century's hottest collectible and we expect this trend to continue over time. The Internet has clearly been a mostly positive factor in this direction.

Before the Internet became hugely popular, it was virtually impossible to participate in the hobby without attending watch shows, sometimes in faraway cities. Most collectible watches (and especially the more expensive, desirable pieces) were bought, sold, and traded primarily at regional watch shows sponsored by the NAWCC and IWJG. Many collectors would become disillusioned, however, because while it was exciting to meet other collectors, disappointment set in when they realized that the best watches were bought and sold the night before -- the notorious "dealers' pre-show".

Another interesting trend this writer observed was the rapid shift at shows from vintage to modern pre-owned watches, again due in large part to the Internet. When I first started buying and selling fine watches, vintage timepieces were considered far more collectible than modern pre-owned watches -- and much easier to locate as well. Obviously, brand-new and "like new" modern watches were offered for sale at the shows, but one did not see complicated Pateks on the floor very often, and certainly not at the sort of discounts at which they are routinely offered today.

However, once watch collectors discovered the ease with which they could trade timepieces via the Internet, the supply of truly rare and collectible vintage watches quickly dried up as prices skyrocketed in the mid-to-late 1990s. Even though many collections were liquidated as collectors decided to take advantage of a strong marketplace, the increased supply of vintage watches was quickly snapped up by a new generation of affluent collectors in their 30s and 40s, no doubt helped by a booming stock market. These new collectors were far more aggressive in their pursuit of vintage watches than their predecessors were.

Suddenly, desirable vintage watches were not so plentiful anymore, and nice watches were no longer being sold at shows, but rather on-line.

Nowadays, younger watch collectors are finding it much easier (and more fun) to collect modern pre-owned watches. Although modern pre-owned watches from the great houses reflect the high quality, craftsmanship, superb design, and rarity associated with the vintage timepieces of yesteryear, they are far more practical to wear on an everyday basis. (After all, wristwatches are perhaps the only modern collectible which one can actually wear and enjoy -- something you cannot do with a $20 double-eagle.)

Another factor in this shift from vintage to modern pre-owned is the emergence of a two-way market for modern pre-owned watches through venues such as eBay. Through the Internet, one can find brand-new or "like new" modern watches offered at dramatic discounts from retail. Consequently, today's collector might own several watches at once, rather than just one. In addition, many collectors prefer temporary ownership of a fine watch, as opposed to long-term ownership. Thanks to the Internet, selling a fine watch is much easier than it was in the past, and with such dramatic discounts, much less expensive as well.

It is therefore not uncommon for a collector of modern watches to buy a new or "like new" watch on the Internet, wear it for a short time, and then re-sell it -- often at a minimal loss. The small loss incurred is, in a sense, the cost of ownership. In turn, this two-way marketplace creates a larger supply for dealers. With the supply of vintage watches shrinking, a new generation of collectors has transformed the modern wristwatch into a legitimate collectible in its own right, so much so that certain watches are worth more than their retail prices. And why not? Many people (myself included) consider modern watches to be just as finely made, collectible, and well designed as watches were in the past.

Finally, it is worth mentioning that collectors are becoming more knowledgeable about watches from a technical and historical standpoint than ever before. Because today's collectors can go on-line and learn about market values, watch companies, or whatever else they want to know, in a fraction of the time it took their predecessors, we increasingly find discriminating collectors whose knowledge rivals even that of the most established dealers. This obviously levels the playing field to some degree.

In some cases, the lines between collector and dealer become even more blurred. Thanks to the Internet, all it takes is a scanner, a computer, and a modem -- and almost anyone can go into the watch business. Although several excellent dealers have entered the business in recent years, it is more important than ever to find one with experience and knowledge which matches your own. As the saying goes: "Buy the dealer before you buy the watch."

In conclusion, today's watch shows are much different than they were ten years ago. Vintage watches are tougher to find and modern pre-owned watches are clearly where the action is. This situation is unlikely to change. On a positive note though, modern watches are also more sophisticated and legitimately collectible than ever before. As always, there are plenty of old friends and clients whom I look forward to reconnecting with at shows, and many new faces as well. This is a good thing, of course, as any hobby needs new blood.

Yes, the Internet has changed the watch collecting hobby forever, but in a good way. I am seeing more collectors entering the hobby than in the past, and a greater appreciation of fine watches in general. While I will miss the "good old days" when I would go to a show and see 25 rare vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches for sale, there is something to be said for the Internet, which has allowed me to meet and communicate with many more collectors than in the past.

And although watch shows may be less relevant than they once were -- especially now that air travel is no longer as safe or convenient as it once was -- they are still a great way to meet other collectors or dealers and I highly recommend attending a few, if you can. You may not find a great wholesale deal, or the rarest vintage Patek Philippe, but you may find something even more important: knowledge, a new friend, and a greater appreciation for this enjoyable and exceptional hobby.

Source: http://www.demesy.com/articles/marketplace_overview.html

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 11:43 AM

Swatch Announces New Swatch Smart Watch

Delivers Exclusive Entertainment Information and More Via Microsoft's MSN Direct Service

NEW YORK and BIEL, Switzerland -- Oct. 20, 2004

Swatch, the innovative, trend-setting watch brand from Switzerland-based Swatch Group, the leading global watch corporation, has joined with MSN® Direct, a division of Microsoft Corp., to launch a stylish and colorful new watch known as Paparazzi. With four new multicolored styles, Paparazzi offers wearers exclusive entertainment information and the opportunity to meet celebrities. In addition, Paparazzi owners can access the MSN Direct service to receive personalized information, including news, sports, weather, horoscopes, stock quotes and more.

Nick Hayek Jr. (left), CEO of Swatch Group, and actress Mischa Barton join Microsoft Chairman Bill Gates to model the new "Paparazzi" watch line, which can access MSN Direct. New York, Oct. 20, 2004. Click image for high-res version.

The velvet rope just disappeared for Swatch Paparazzi wearers. They will be in the know before everyone else thanks to Swatch City, new, specialized content from Time Out on hot bars, cool clubs, hip locales and free events around town. Also unique to Swatch Paparazzi is the opportunity to register to win a Swatch Meet A Celebrity package.

Swatch Paparazzi offers consumers the chance to meet a celebrity from the worlds of business, sports, music and film. The Swatch Meet sweepstakes unfolds over the next six months and is available to buyers and nonbuyers of the Swatch Paparazzi alike. The first celebrity meetings featured in the Swatch Meet sweepstakes include a tour of the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in January 2005 with Microsoft Chairman and Chief Software Architect Bill Gates; a training session with Olympic Gold Medalist Carl Lewis; and a visit to the set of "The OC" with star Mischa Barton. More information about Swatch Meet is located at http://www.swatch.com.

Swatch Paparazzi represents the first Swatch Smart Watch offering automatic content out of the box. The following content is available to every Swatch Paparazzi buyer upon purchase: Swatch City, which offers entertainment news and national news headlines; local weather high and low temperatures; major stock indexes; Swatch Meet; and Swatch News, which relates brand happenings.

"Communication is very powerful. The information you share is one part and the way you communicate it is the other. Swatch Paparazzi offers a lifestyle of communication that is original and fun -- clearly a plus for the wearer," said Nick Hayek Jr., CEO of Swatch Group.

MSN Direct: Sophisticated Technology

MSN Direct offers Paparazzi wearers the ability to personalize channels of information including news, sports, weather, horoscopes, personal messages, calendar appointment reminders, stock quotes, lottery information and more. Subscribers to MSN Direct choose only the information they wish to receive on their watch by visiting the MSN Direct Web site at http://www.msndirect.com. Since MSN Direct was launched at CES in January, the amount of content offered by the service has doubled, and subscribers can choose from a range of pricing options to best fit their needs.

"The introduction of the Swatch Paparazzi watch represents a milestone for Smart Watches and MSN Direct. We are thrilled to work with an industry leader like Swatch to offer specialized content and stylish watches specially tailored for Swatch customers," said Bill Mitchell, corporate vice president of the Mobile Platforms Division at Microsoft.

Swatch Meet

Of all the functions provided by Paparazzi, perhaps the most evocative is the opportunity to meet a celebrity. Through the Swatch Meet sweepstakes, wearers can register to win the chance to spend time with one of four celebrities representing the worlds of business, sports, music and film. The sweepstakes is scheduled to start Oct. 20 and will run for six months. One winner every six weeks will be selected at random and flown to meet the celebrity of the month, courtesy of Swatch.

About Swatch Paparazzi

The Swatch Paparazzi is available in four vivid colors including orange, red, black, and a blue and beige combination, and all sport an adjustable silicon strap. The traditional Swatch plastic case comes in a new chunky design and an extra-large size. Five function buttons recessed into the case allow the wearer to navigate and control the watch functions. The Swatch Paparazzi is waterproof and comes with a lithium-ion rechargeable battery and a two-year warranty. Swatch Paparazzi retails for $150 at all 40 Swatch stores and is available online at http://www.swatch.com.

Press release MicroSoft

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 12:43 PM

Makers put emphasis on branding, IPR

December 13, 2004

The prosperity of Hong Kong's timepieces industry in 2005 will be defined by two developments: the effectiveness of the Closer Economic Partnership Agreement and the trend among suppliers for OBM and licensed watch production.

World consumption of fashion timepieces grew 4.5 percent in each of the past two years.

Consumption in the mainland market in particular shot up 27 percent during the period, and Hong Kong suppliers can tap into this potential by selling own-brand or licensed watches to the mainland via CEPA.

Even with this promising outlook, the timepieces industry has yet to reap the full benefits of CEPA, a cross-border agreement that allows products made in Hong Kong to be sold duty-free in the mainland. But so far only a small percentage of Hong Kong timepiece companies have applied for CEPA certification. Most suppliers still feel that the year-old agreement does not provide enough advantages to justify the higher production costs involved.

Many Hong Kong suppliers have relocated assembly lines to the mainland over past years due to the lower production costs there. However, in order to sell to the mainland market duty-free under CEPA, a Hong Kong company must ensure that its product has at least 30 percent local content. In other words, 30 percent or more of the combined cost of the product's raw materials, components, labor, development (design, licensing and patenting) and assembly has to be incurred in Hong Kong itself.

Most suppliers are not willing to move production from the mainland back to Hong Kong, where land prices and labor wages are much higher. Moreover, the mere act of computing the 30 percent value would be too costly for many suppliers, as third-party accountants would have to be hired to check computations. This additional expense alone is dissuading makers from marketing high-quality models in the mainland.

Courtesy Timepieces

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 12:57 PM

Low-end competition pushes makers upmarket

The Grande Cruz from Hong Kong's

Intertime (Far East) Ltd features four lugs

that move independently of each other.

December 10, 2004

Even in mainland China, some suppliers are following Hong Kong's lead and shifting from premiums to their own upscale designs.

Big steps in Hong Kong followed by smaller ones in mainland China. That describes the rate of movement in two watch manufacturing centers away from premiums models and toward upscale designs.

More Hong Kong suppliers are steadily moving up to midrange and high-end watches in response to mainland makers dominating the premiums line with their lower prices. Hong Kong watch companies have significantly decreased production of low-end models, and some suppliers have completely stopped offering them.

The production shift is evident across all watch categories in Hong Kong, but it is most prominent in the line for novelty and fashion models. Because design is the main selling point of these watches, many companies feel they must apply for a patent on each model they develop. However, illegal copying remains a problem in the industry, and this is another incentive for Hong Kong's design-oriented suppliers to go upmarket and make models as intricate as possible to thwart copycats.

Even in the mainland, where low-priced models have long been the backbone of the timepieces industry, some makers are heading upmarket due to fierce competition, albeit in smaller steps. While the focus in the mainland remains on low-end OEM production, where a return on investment is guaranteed, more makers are releasing own-design watches that carry in-house and buyers' labels for the midrange and high-end markets. However, these designs are usually produced in small quantities, with no guarantee of repeat orders.

Even though some companies are taking such steps, most mainland suppliers continue to devote the bulk of output to low-end and midrange models, including in the novelty and fashion watches line. OEM work is still the most vital aspect of business for novelty and fashion watch suppliers.

While more in-house designs are available, most companies manufacture watches according to buyers' specifications. The majority of suppliers require a large minimum, usually around 10,000 pieces, for each OEM order. But not all buyers are willing to purchase 10,000 pieces for a design not yet tested on the market. In fact, the trend among buyers is for flexible requirements in terms of MOQs, payment terms and lead times.

Courtesy Timepieces

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 01:02 PM

Hong Kong cultivating licenses

Solar Time Ltd of Hong Kong designed

and manufactured this watch with

negative LCD for Giordano.

December 10, 2004

One of the easiest ways to move up from low-end to midrange and high-end production is to acquire manufacturing licenses from major fashion brands and retailers. Hong Kong companies in particular are focusing on such relationships.

Many of the locally based companies that participated in the September 2004 Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair showcased watches they had made for fashion brands such as Bill Blass, Levi's, Giordano and Morgan.

Hong Kong-based Solar Time Co. Ltd designs and manufactures watches for apparel and accessories brand Giordano, sportswear brand Beverly Hills Polo Club and motorcycle brand Triumph.

Before coming up with designs for these brands, Solar Time studies a company's profile and image. For the Beverly Hills Polo Club label, which is under license from BHPC Marketing Inc., Solar Time keeps to the brand's classic look. Even though they might have a sporty feel, the watches have streamlined cases and clean, uncluttered dials.

Watches for Giordano, however, have a more youthful look. One design features a negative LCD, which displays time in yellow against a black background. A similar design shows white digits against backgrounds of different colors.

In addition to designing and manufacturing watches for its licensers, Solar Time provides product accessories such as retail displays, packaging, POS and POP materials, and care and instruction leaflets.

Chung Nam Watch Co. Ltd of Hong Kong is a licensed manufacturer for Swiss watch brand Roamer. However, Chung Nam focuses mostly on development of ODM watches, of which all designs are registered. Depending on the material, construction and specification, the company's FOB prices are between $5 and $30 per watch.

Chung Nam releases two watch collections each year, the latest of which features an all-white or all-black theme. These watches have round dials in square-shaped cases. The dials, cases and straps match in either white or black.

Intertime (Far East) Ltd has taken brand development a bit further. The company was set up in Hong Kong more than 10 years ago to produce ODM watches for European clients. However, it has since stopped handling ODM orders and now focuses completely on creating and developing designs for its own Vo!la brand of watches. The company's first Vo!la collection was launched in 2002 at the BaselWorld watch and jewelry show in Switzerland. It has 11 collections to date, all of which have registered designs. Intertime has 20 distributors that sell its Vo!la watches in 35 countries.

To protect its watches from illegal copiers, Intertime does not show a new model to its distributors unless a patent has been acquired on the design.

Two of Intertime's latest collections, N° 8 and Grande Cruz, were displayed at the September 2004 Hong Kong fair. The Grande Cruz collection is an update of the company's Cruz watches that have a cross-shaped dial in an all-stainless steel case and a 1/20-second chronograph. Designs in the new collection still have across-shaped dial, but the stainless steel case is now oversized and attached to four lugs that move independently of each other. The case is also fitted with a pangolin-print Italian calfskin strap.

The N° 8 collection is available in two styles: with a plain bezel or with 5.5-carat white diamonds on the bezel. The triple-time chronograph has an eight-shaped, triple-layered 316L stainless steel case with a curved, screw-down back carrying one Swiss Ronda 5040.B movement and two modified Ronda 1042 movements. Watches without diamonds retail for about $900 each. Diamond-studded models sell for as high as $3,000 per watch.

Courtesy Timepieces

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 01:04 PM

Exclusive ODM work in mainland China

December 10, 2004

In the mainland, fashionable watches are traditionally available in low-end to midrange models, which are made either from slightly modified case molds or newly tooled molds based on buyers' specifications. Trends last for two seasons at most, making it impractical for most suppliers to invest heavily in the high-end production of in-house designs.

The same is true for novelty watches. Most of the mainland's output of novelty watches are low-end models used primarily as premiums. These watches usually have either cultural icons or cartoon figures on the dials or straps, and many come with oddly shaped cases. Midrange designs may have additional features such as interchangeable straps.

As with fashion designs, suppliers consider it risky to produce high-end novelty watches. Most buyers will not make bulk purchases of new novelty styles that have not been tested on the market and which have higher price tags. As such, most suppliers in the mainland will continue focusing production on low-end to midrange designs of fashion and novelty watches.

Even so, many mainland suppliers are boosting their design capability. And at some of these companies, ODM orders already outnumber OEM orders.

At San-Ban Intl Ltd, only 20 percent of fashion and novelty watch production is for OEM orders. The bulk of output now involves in-house designs created by the company's 15-person design team.

ODM models account for 70 percent of fashion and novelty watch output at Zhangzhou Hongyuan Watch Industry Co. Ltd.

Both companies sign exclusivity agreements with buyers to ensure that case designs will not be shared with other clients. In Hongyuan's agreements, there are stipulations that exclusive case designs will not even be published in product catalogs or displayed at trade shows.

Courtesy Timepieces

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 01:08 PM

CVD technology yields alternative to sapphire crystals

Mainland China – Shenzhen Leidi Science & Technology Co. Ltd has developed a diamond membrane for use as a low-cost option to sapphire crystals.

Leidi used CVD technology to apply a layer of diamond membrane onto a substrate. The finished crystal has properties similar to that of sapphire, but at a lower cost. Diamond crystals are hard and resist abrasion.

Diamond membrane has been used for various purposes since the 1980s. Diamond purity is usually between 60 percent and 90 percent, resulting in translucent membranes. But Leidi sales representative Hua Dianbo claims the company can produce diamond membranes with a purity of up to 99 percent, yielding transparent films. Leidi's diamond membranes can be applied to metal, glass and plastic substrates.

In addition to watch crystals, the diamond membrane can also be used as a harder coating alternative for metal watchbands. Leidi carries the patents for the diamond membrane watch crystals and bands, with respective patent numbers ZL97114300.5 and 01242407.2.

Courtesy Timepieces

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 02:35 PM

Breitling fakes and replicas - revealed

Fakes nearly always used to contain cheaper quartz movements, though a lot are now appearing with automatic movements, so beware. On the quartz models,the second hand has a stacatto ticking movement, whilst the real thing will have a much smoother sweeping movement around the dial. The quartz model sub registers will also be at 10, 12, and 2, instead of 3, 6, and 9.

The Val 7750 (Breitling cal 13 - Navitimer and Chronomat) automatic movement only winds in one direction. Put the watch to your ear, and you should only be able to hear the pawl engaging the winding gear in one direction.

No swiss made statement at the bottom of the face, or in the subdial at six.

Dial says 'Navitimer', but does not have 'Breitling' on the dial. This is common with Russian fakes, eg the 'Navitimer Blue Angels'. There is now, a Poljot fake, identical to the 'Blue Angels' Navitimer, that does have Breitling on the dial, in the old fashioned script style. This watch does not have a signed crystal, and the back is signed Poljot, but beware... this is the most convincing fake I have ever seen. If the caseback is 'sterilised', it looks exactly as a vintage Breitling should.

The watch has luminous hands and markings, that do not glow at night, or glow only for a minute or so.

Sub register configuration is incorrect, ie mins where hours should be. Get a makers catalogue, and check the position and configuaration.

Inappropriate movement of indecies on sub dials, ie, secs tracking on hours chapter. Some newer, automatic watches, have perpetual calendar readouts instead of accumulated time registers. These can be easily spotted with close examination.

Some mechanical 'Chronomat' and B2 models have just entered the market, which to the uninitiated can be mistaken for the real thing. The dead giveaway is that they have perpetuel calendar subdials, ie day of the week and date instead of elapsed hours and minutes. A close examination should weed out these little beggars.

Dial markings are poorly printed, and can look smudged under

magnification.

All newer (say post 1999) Breitling watches have a small 'B' engraved on the bezel edge between 10 and 11. This will be absent on fakes.

Non cambered or non anti reflective crystals, scratches on crystal - all contemporary Breitlings have sapphire crystals, and all have non reflective crystals.

Incorrect dial layout - Automatics have subdials at the cardinal quarters, 3,6,9, and 6,9 and 12. Most quartz fakes have them at 2, 6, and 10.

No model or serial no on case, or incorrect model number for type of watch.

There is a relief medallion in the centre of the case back, that has NOT been lazer engraved into the case. They are most often made of alloy, and applied separately on fakes.

Case is chrome plated brass, not easy to spot. If the seller will allow you, and he will if he is genuine, scratch the surface, where it will be invisible, between the lugs. The thin coating will easily be scratched off. If it is stainless, it will not scratch easily, and will not cause damage. (last resort!!)

Breitling bezels are lazer cut, not moulded. If you look closely at the bezel on a fake, you can see slight bulge in the bezel where the markings have been press embossed.

The rider tabs, (claws) at the cardinals are out of proportion to the bezel.

With the Chronomat model, ensure that the pushpieces and crown are the correct domed shape... there should be no discernable straigt edges. and are in proportion. This is usually a good giveaway.

The screw heads around the bezel are moulded, not real. Only the avengers have moulded domes instead of screws.

Bracelet does not have solid links, most new bracelets also have solid end links. A genuine bracelet will have screwed links, not pins. On some fakes, the two nearest links to the case will be solid, and not articulated.

Chronomat models have inappropriate view backs. The only genuine watches with view backs are the Cosmonaute, and the Chronoracer rattrapante. It is possible, but rare to come across a Breitling which has been retro fitted with a non proprietary view back, but these are very few and far between.

Most obviously, the majority fakes have quartz movements, not automatic. Fakers have not yet bothered to fake Breitlings cheaper quartz analogue movements, because in general, the quartz analogue models are not as desirable as the automatics.. there are of course exceptions, but I have yet to see them copied.. They have however, faked the digitals, ie, Emergency and Aerospace, but these are so shoddy, the defy belief, and have pushpieces to operate the functions instead of the crown. I have even seen Emergency fakes with lazer pointers, and compasses in the antenna housing. They also have grey and black LCD readouts instead of black and gold, (although a few are now appearing with gold on black.. be very careful) and are Chrome and brass, instead of titanium. With the introduction of the new Emergency Mission, with it's conventional chronograph readout, some may be fooled with the older Emergency fakes... some of these had conventional chronograph readouts. The easy way to tell them apart, is that the fakes have extra corrector buttons on the 6 - 12 side of the case. The genuine model has NO corrector buttons, and will say 'Breitling Certifie Chronometer' on the caseback. The fakes will not.

Another blow to authenticity........ I have just seen an Emergency model, with gold on black digital displays. This watch still had incorrect corrector pushpieces, but looked very good. I'm sure it will be only a matter of time before this model is faked convincingly.

Yet another good copy.... a Superocean, and a Headwind that now have mechanical movements. These watches are TOO GOOD, and need an expert to tell them from the real thing. Examine them closely, with reference to a catalogue. Check carefully rider tab sizes, printing fonts on the dial, size of breitling wings on the seconds hands, and especially look closely at the markings on the bezel... they have yet to master lazer engraving. The casebacks too will still be the giveaway if you know what they are looking for.

Another new copy. The Aerospace is now on the market. Quite a bad copy though, it is in steel instead of titanium, and has corrector pushpiece at 7. Genuine Aerospace models do NOT have pushpieces.

Treat any 'special edition' with suspicion, until you have it checked. There are a lot of fakes appearing with Top Gun, Blue Angels, Red Arrows, etc on the dial. To the unwary, this tend to add authenticity. (I have even seen an emergency model with 'Land Rover' on the dial).

The Poljot company make a very convincing replica of the 'Blue Angels' montbrillant. A dead giveaway, is the fact that although it says 'Navitimer on the dial, it does not say 'Breitling' It is also missing the subdial at '6', though I have seen one that uses a date subdial instead of a window. This looks good. Size is wrong on all of them though, 39.5mm instead of 42mm.

Get yourself an up to date catalog, and check the watch with the picture - they never match exactly, check the dimensions with a digital caliper, and check the weight.

The best fakes come from Russia, Italy and Switzerland. These can be very, very good, and would convince most people - but they are expensive - around $300 - $400. One or two even have the same base movement as Breitling - Valjoux /ETA. The rest come from the far east, are easy to identfy as fakes, and can be as cheap as $5.00. Would you buy a Breitling on a street corner for $20? If you would you deserve all you get. Buy your watch from a reputable jeweller or a friend. Neither will try to pass you a fake. Always try to get both boxes and all the paperwork with your watch. Check serial numbers against watch, and make sure that the warranty is perforated. I have seen a fake warranty, but it had no perforations - they are too difficult to copy. Dealers name and address is printed on the fake warranty. Incidentally, a watch without box and papers should be cheaper than one with, and also more difficult to sell later.

Poljot is currently producing very good looking Breitling replicas. They can't really be called fake, or counterfiet, because they do not use the Breitling name. Their Navitimer replica however, is very convincing, because it is a fairly high quality watch, and some for the European market, have no cryllic script on the dial, but merely say 'Navitimer' The same goes for the Chronomat model... this merely says 'Chronomat' The easy way to tell these watches from the real thing is to check the subdials. They are at 9 and 3 only. I have once seen one with the sub dial at 6, but this was a date register.

A lot of points made here can easily be applied to fakes of other brands.

Above all, use your eyes, and common sense. If the deal seems too good to be true, it probably is!

If all else fails, have it checked at a dealership. Unlike Rolex, they will not confiscate it, and they SHOULD be able to authenticate it.

CAVEAT EMPTOR!

Source: http://www.watchuseek.com/cgi-bin/anyboard...amp;gV=0&p=

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Dec 19 2004, 07:44 PM

EBERHARD & CO Vanderbilt Cup

Dedicated to one of the finest victories of racing driver Tazio Nuvolari, this chronograph has a co-axial pushbutton on the crown and a vertically-sliding pushbutton that opens the cover to reveal a finely-worked, personalised movement.

Brand: EBERHARD & CO

Model: Vanderbilt Cup

Movement: Automatic, 28,800 V/h

Blued screws, côtes de Genève patterning

Function: Hours, minutes, seconds,

chronograph with a pushbutton at 3 o'clock

(reset to zero), tachometer

Case: 750 (18C) pink gold

Double-sided antiglare sapphire crystal

750 (18C) pink gold cover with engraved hinge

Screw-down sapphire back, signed by Tazio Nuvolari

Dial: White, luminescent numerals

and baton hands

Bracelet / Strap: Crocodile, gold clasp

Other version: Steel

White dial with Arabic numerals

and blue leaf hands

Source: http://www.eberhard-co-watches.ch

Posted by: Neo Dec 19 2004, 07:59 PM

NINA RICCI - N015 Of genius and elegance

N015 - Of genius and elegance

A change in personality on a whim inspired by the mood of the moment.An elegance varying in style: sober by day, sophisticated by night, proper or brazen, opulent or casual, but invariably refined and feminine.

The secret?

A system of interchangeable bezels, patent pending. A revolution on the wrist, an industry exclusive. A way to vary styles, textures, designs when in the mood for change. A blend of steel and plated gold to grant the watch another face.

Discreet with polished bezel. Wise with engraved Arabic numerals.

Romantic when heart-shaped. Chic with diamond indices or raised Roman numerals. Sparkling under a shower of diamonds. Dazzling with precious stones set on the bezel. Avant-garde in a decor of excentric circles. Fashionable when signed NINA RICCI. Graphic with stud imprints in black.

Made in Switzerland, marked by fine craftsmanship, with three bezels adorning each dial. Additional bezels to be chosen as inspired by changing moods and seasons.

N015. One watch, a thousand faces.

N015 - Technical data

case 316L polished steel or 18 ct. gold-plated,
10 microncrown engraved with “NR”
diamonds TW/SI quality
movement Swiss quartzcalibre 5 1/2 Ronda 751
glass mineral with sapphire treatment
dials steel: white mother-of-pearl, rhodium, blackbicolour : white mother-of-pearlgold-plated: white mother-of-pearl, champagne
bezels three basic bezels with each model
bracelet 316L polished steel or 18 ct. gold-plated, 10 micron
clasp folding buckle, invisible
case back numbered and engraved
water-resistance to 30 meters (100 feet)
guarantee two years
place of manufacture Switzerland
http://www.ninaricci.fr

Posted by: Neo Dec 19 2004, 08:13 PM
GERALD GENTA - The legendary watchmaker

Creativity personified in the world of watchmaking, Mr. Gérald Genta has surprised and fascinated watch enthusiasts all over the world for almost fifty years. Defying conventions and fashion trends, he has dreamt up new ways of telling the time. His signature has become synonymous with a subtle alchemy of talent and audacity.

He has given birth to almost a hundred different watches, several of which are true watchmaking masterpieces. A number of them currently feature as key models in the most prestigious of watchmaking brands. And, as a true craftsman, Mr. Gérald Genta has similarly designed historical pieces, such as an automatic minute repeater, housed in an ultra-flat case, and a Grande Sonnerie, a watchmaking masterpiece made up of more than 1000 highly advanced micromechanics parts. Acclaimed by the entire community of connoisseurs and declared the world’s most complicated wristwatch in 1994, this feat testified to a watchmaker at the very pinnacle of his art.

His creativity appears to be uncheckable, as if everything he has achieved in the past simply serves to spur him on to what is to come. The seasoned eye of the master is constantly alert, ready to absorb forms and systems which his inventive spirit then transforms, adapts or renews. And each time he creates something new, each time he comes up with another discovery, that selfsame air of delight prevails once again, both for the inventor-watchmaker himself and for the entire community of connoisseurs.

A multi-faceted creator, Mr. Gérald Genta similarly cultivates a taste for painting. His artistic talents have been nurtured since the age of seven, when he first discovered the pleasure of excursions into unadulterated nature to seek out enchanting landscapes. Devoted to watchmaking, he gave up his brushes and easels for a time in order to create the models to which he owes his fame. Although Mr. Gérard Genta displays true rigorousness in his watchmaking creations, the artist in him continues to dream of splendid compositions, bursting with colour, where he can let his imagination run loose. It is thus only natural that, having gained recognition in the world of watchmaking, Mr. Gérald Genta should return to his first love.

Today, the watchmaker has succeeded in uniting his two passions. Giving preference to freedom and boldness over productivity, he sold his first company and reconnected with true craftsmanship by launching the new Gérald Charles brand in 2001. This takes up two-thirds of his time, the remainder being devoted to the polychrome dreams that he expresses in two dimensions.

MR. GERALD GENTA & ANTOINE PREZIUSO: A FRUITFUL MEETING OF TWO BIG MASTERS OF WATCHMAKING
Nothing was to be left to chance when devising the true masterpiece of the Gérald Charles collection. Mr. Gérald Genta, who had designed the piece already and had it pictured in his mind, thus called upon an expert in mechanical movements to translate the heart of this splendid grand complication into practice.

A true virtuoso and aesthete, Antoine Preziuso devotes himself unceasingly to injecting beauty into every last detail of a watch. His patience and skill, the keys to his infinite precision, opened up the field of extreme miniaturisation to him – a field in which he rapidly excelled. Always on the lookout for new challenges and with a passion for developing limited series to give full rein to his inventiveness, he plunged into the adventure without a second’s hesitation.

“Surprising oneself, pushing back one’s own limits”, could be the motto of these two talented creators. There is thus nothing exceptional about the fact that they have teamed up to confront one of the most difficult exercises of mechanical watchmaking. A piece of this technical sophistication calls for care right down to the very last detail, for the resolution of the full range of constraints. These stringent demands, this constant quest for performance, has paid off brilliantly, since the two talented creators have additionally succeeded in adding elegance to the starting variable.

Both creators are now eagerly awaiting the reactions of the public and watch collectors. And it’s a safe bet that they will not be disappointed.

TOURBILLON
An aesthetic masterpiece

As with any major creation, this item incorporates distinctive aesthetic characteristics which form the very signature of the Gérald Charles tourbillon. Exterior: Mr. Gérald Genta has paid extreme attention to the slightest details to ensure such a pleasing overall effect. Thus for example, he has opted for hands in two different (19th and 20th century) styles to display the hours and the minutes. This was a daring wager. However, the very fact that they are thus individualised makes it very easy to differentiate between them. The delight in taking people by surprise, so dear to the heart of Mr. Genta, is thus coupled with functional considerations. Movement: The calibre carrying the signature of Antoine Preziuso is a creation typical of other movements by the master-craftsman: it is distinguished by pure, understated lines and beautiful finishing. The tourbillon bridge: Created for purely aesthetic reasons, it signals the continuity between the watch as a whole and its movement. Its distinctive shape, chosen by Mr. Gérald Genta, reinforces the personality of the timepiece, especially since it recalls the moustache of the famous watch designer; while it unmistakably owes its meticulous crafting to Antoine Preziuso.

A technical prodigy
Wishing to have a tourbillon cage that could move around freely, as if by magic, the two creators opted for the most difficult of solutions: a flying tourbillon. Antoine Preziuso therefore had to skilfully resolve all the problems encountered with this type of device and to construct a robust, yet lightweight, tourbillon carriage. This tourbillon thus bears witness to the perfect mastery of the watchmaking craftsman, embodied by Antoine Preziuso.
- Movement: Mechanical, "Antoine Preziuso" calibre with
- tourbillon, 28,800 vph, 25 jewels, double barrel
- 72-hour power reserve. Blued screws
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Case: Pink or white gold, 44 mm. Glareproofed sapphire
- crystal, screw-down sapphire back
- Engraved and signed by both craftsmen
- Dial: White mother-of-pearl, Teflon with sunray motif
- in the centre, 1-minute tourbillon at 6 o'clock with
- decorated bridges. Asymmetrical hands
- Strap: Crocodile leather, folding clasp
- Other version: Platinum
STAR LADY GOLD
The interplay of gold and red is beautifully staged by a silky strap and a boldly geometrical case. This resolutely feminine watch displays a luxurious personality, enhanced by the diamonds adorning the hands as well as the sparkling reflections of the sapphire crystal cut like a precious stone.

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 12:48 PM

N E W M o d e l – Bell & Ross Desert Type 126 XL

Dec 20, 2004

Based on the success of the olive drab Military Type chronograph, B&R has introduced the Desert Type with a khaki dial.

The Desert Type 126 features a 43mm X 16mm stainless steel case with a “leather safety strap” cuff.

Movement is an automatic ETA chronograph with 28 jewels and a 42 hour power reserve. The crystal and the display back are sapphire. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

Courtesey timezone

Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 01:07 PM

For our Dutch members

TNG SWISS WATCHES

Swiss Made Sailing Watch TNG Storms US Market and Expands in Europe

Swiss brand TNG opens up the US market. The Swiss sailing watch can this year be found at exclusive retailers in the US. Additionally TNG Sailing Watches will expand its sales, distribution and promotion activities on the Benelux Market followed by Scandinavia.

Six years ago professional catamaran sailor Dutch Herbert Dercksen returned from the Atlanta Olympics with an desire to develop an solid and accurate Swiss sailing watch, specifically designed for the new extreme demands of the Olympic sail racing rules and the various starting procedures. Dercksen (29), from a Dutch watch making family, teamed up with businessman Frans Dingerdis (39) and the brand TNG was officially born.

TNG stands for Tack and Gybe, the two main manoeuvres to change course on a sailing boat. In 1998 the first patented TNG Sail Racing Watch was successfully introduced. The movement of the watch was developed together with Swiss watch brand Frederic Constant. In all details of the watch it is obvious that racing sailors were, and still are, involved in the development and innovations of the TNG watch collection in function and design.

So far sales have been generated mainly through nautical distributors. In four years time 15.000 TNG watches have been sold in 11 countries, with main markets being Australia, Germany, The Netherlands and Norway. In 2003 TNG will expand its distribution to the Jeweler and promotes the brand towards consumers to support TNG’s objective with Jewellery distributors.

At this moment the TNG collection contains five models, Baltic Cup, Match Racer, Race Master, Race Master Lady and Tornado. The first watch, the Tornado, was specifically developed for and by racing sailors. Inspired by the success four other sailing models were introduced. They also have some nautical features but are aimed at a wider range of consumers, who would like to be associated with the extreme nautical image through sail racing but do not race boats for a living.

In 2003 TNG will introduce a new model of the Match Racer at the World Watch and Jewellery Show 2003 in Basel where TNG will be present for the second time.

TNG is official Time Keeper of the Round Texel for the third consecutive year. The Round is the biggest cat race in the world with 800 cats on the start line. Dercksen has won the race twice.

TNG Swiss Sailing Watches

Six years ago professional catamaran sailor Herbert Dercksen returned from the Atlanta Olympics with an idea to develop a Swiss precision watch, specifically designed for the new extreme demands of the Olympic sail racing rules and the various starting procedures. Dercksen (29), from a Dutch watch making family, teamed up with businessman Frans Dingerdis (39) and the brand TNG was officially born.

TNG stands for Tack and Gybe, the two main manoeuvres to change course on a sailing boat. In 1998 the first patented TNG Sail Racing Watch was introduced. In all details it is obvious that racing sailors were, and still are, involved in the development and innovations of the TNG watch in function and design. The movement of the watch was developed in close cooperation with one of Dercksen’s relatives, Peter Stass, owner/director of the Swiss watch maker Frederique Constant.

Dercksen’s love and understanding of the sport, combined with his quest to develop a watch beyond the expectations, resulted in a remarkable sports watch. The combination of Swiss technology, design, luxury and accuracy with the ideas of top class racing sailors quickly gained international attention.

Sales so far have been generated mainly through nautical distributors. In four years time 15.000 TNG watches have been sold in 10 countries, with main markets being Australia, Germany, Netherlands and Norway. In 2003 TNG will expand its distribution through the Jewellers in Europe. In order to support that objective TNG will promote the brand towards consumers.

At this moment the TNG collection contains five models, Baltic Cup, Match Racer, Race Master, Race Master Lady and Tornado, all made in Switzerland. The first watch, the Tornado, was specifically developed for top class racing sailors. The four other models also have nautical features but are positioned as a luxury design item for sports enthusiasts and adventurers. These models are aimed at a wide range of consumers, who would like to be associated with extreme nautical image through sail racing.

True to its roots TNG is the official Time Keeper of the Round Texel for the third consecutive year. The Round Texel is the biggest cat race in the world with maximum 800 cats on the start line. The attributes of the race and the TNG brand form a perfect match. Dercksen himself has won the biggest cat race twice.

Dercksen now sails with dual Olympic Medallist Mitch Booth. The two catamaran specialists are preparing for the Athens Olympic Games in the extremely fast and wild Tornado Class. The team is one of the favourites to win the gold. Herbert Dercksen and Mitch Booth are the current World Champions Formula 18 catamaran and are placed 2nd on the World Ranking in the Tornado.

Baltic Cup

The Baltic Cup is a very versatile watch. One of the features is a countdown function that can be used for sailing regattas for example. Variations in model make this a watch desired by many. Next to these features the watch also looks very sporty. The ergonomic design is also very functional through its rounded stainless steel case and buttons.

Quartz ETA movement
Carbon or white dial
Stainless steel case
Screw –in crown and case back
Scratch-proof hardened mineral glass
100 meters/330 ft water-resistance
Rotating bezel in various colours
Sailing chronometer
Weight: 95 gr.

Matchracer Tide Watch

The Matchracer is a fully automatic watch. The nautical look results in a rather distinctive model in design and in features. The movement is Swiss, in a solid stainless steel case. The piece is waterproof and shock resistant. The carbon dial plate, fluorescerent hands, rotating bezel and the completely transparant back make this a very wearable collectors item. A unique feature is the top ring that indicates high and low tide.
- Automatic ETA movement (25 jewels)
- Carbon dial
- Stainless case
- Screw –in crown and caseback
- Skeleton caseback
- Scratch-proof hardened mineral glass
- 100 meters/330 ft water-resistance
- Rotating bezel
- Weight: 95 gr.
Herbert Dercksen

Olympic Tornado

Source: Press release TNG Watches ( http://www.tngwatches.com )
Courtesy SwissTime

Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 01:48 PM
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT - Fight against Counterfeiting

Counterfeiting is defined as:
"The deliberate attempt to deceive consumers by copying and marketing goods bearing well known trade marks, generally together with packaging and product configuration, so that they look like they are made by a reputable manufacturer when they are, in fact, inferior copies".

Piracy and counterfeiting costs the watch industry literally hundreds of millions of Swiss Francs per year and thousands of jobs. Consumers are put at risk by exposure to shoddy, substandard and potentially dangerous merchandise (a.o. trititum radiation and allergy reactions). Piracy and counterfeiting reduces companies ability and incentives to create and innovate. Counterfeiting is the very opposite of fair competition where manufacturers compete against each other on the basis of quality and price.

The original watch manufacturer suffers at three levels:

Loss of direct sales
The cut-price inducement of the counterfeit product is often so strong, particularly to middle-men and traders, that legitimate goods can be precluded from a market.

Secondary sales loss
The consumer who buys a branded product believing it to be genuine will naturally blame that brand manufacturer when it fails. The producer thus loses both reputation and future sales potential.

Long-term costs
The damage caused to profitability resulting from lost sales can have serious repercussions on the labour force. It is estimated that up to one hundred thousand job losses a year in the EU are a direct result of counterfeiting.

Factories in developing countries are even more at risk since they do not have the financial reserves to withstand a sustained assault on profitability. Investment in research and development is also a casualty when profitability suffers and hence a company's capacity to bring new and improved products to market in competition with less affected competitors.

Frédérique Constant is the first watch manufacturer to implement a new technique against counterfeiting. At first glance, it is impossible to make the difference between a genuine and a counterfeit Frédérique Constant watch. Yet the genuine Frédérique Constant watches do have invisible marks that only show up under Ultra Fluorescent light. The Limited Edition number is printed invisible on the dial of the platinum Heart Beat Day-Date and Heart Beat Retrograde.
Silver dials on genuine Frédérique Constant watches will show the limited edition number the Arabic index at 10 O’Clock:

On genuine Frédérique Constant watches with black dials, the numbers will show before and after Swiss Made:

Courtesy SwissTime

Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 02:47 PM
ANDERSEN - 1884

After the great success of the Christophorus Columbus Watch in 1992, Andersen Genève is coming again with a new commemorative World Time Watch: the 1884 to the honour of Sir Sandford Fleming, the inventor of the "Universal Coordinated Time" and the orchestrator of the "First Meridian Conference" held in Washington in October 1884.

There Sir Sandford Fleming presented his project to the assembled representatives of 25 nations who agreed to introduce the 24 hour time zone division of the earth, this to avoid confusion in the establishment of time tables by the railway companies and date exactly the telegraph messages.

Today we have to be grateful to Sir Sandford Fleming and his vision. Could you imagine nowadays worldwide communication by phone, internet, television or air travel without this world time or "Universal Coordinated Time"?

In order to commemorate this event, which happened 120 years ago, Svend Andersen launches an edition of 120 exceptional wrist watches with a historical automatic movement as well as his ingenious very thin world time indicator and a dial tracing the historical points. The solid gold cases of 41.0 mm diameter, 9.0 mm thickness will be individually numbered from 1-50 in red gold, 51-100 in white gold and 101-120 in platinum.

The prices are:

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Dec 24 2004, 10:49 AM

Anatomy of a Watch Strap

All the details and options you never knew existed

What's the difference between Band, Strap and Bracelet?

The terms for the various types of watch bands are frequently confused and misused--often leading to miscommunication, misordering and missatisfaction. To set you on the right path for asking correctly for what you want, here are the definitions of each:

Band and Watchband are vague, generic terms used to refer to the band that holds a watch on your wrist. The preferred terms are Bracelet or Strap, which clearly describe the two major types.

A Bracelet is a metal link watch band. Similar to a jewelry bracelet, may have a clasp to open it.
A Strap is a watch band made of cloth, rubber, leather or other non-metal material.

In general, a shiny black strap of a material like crocodile, alligator or lizard is considered the single dressiest strap option for a man. Elegant metal bracelets are usually the second best choice for men, while either a bracelet of strap are usually equally appropriate for ladies dress watches.

My watch is on a metal bracelet now, can I change it to a strap?

That depends on the specific model you have. The majority of modern and vintage watches have detachable bracelets which can be replaced with a standard watch strap of the correct width.

Examples of watches that CAN be easily switched to a strap.
- Simple bracelet.
- Custom fit bracelet, but on standard lug connections.
  - Non-standard, brand or model-specific strap/bracelet connection. Requires the manufacturer to provide a custom strap that fits this case. If not, some specialty strap makers may be able to create a custom strap for the watch.
  - Fixed pin or peg connection. These connections can be accomodated--but require 'open-ended' straps. Once attached, this type of strap is not easily removed without damaging the strap. Such straps are commonly made and only require you to purchase the correct width. Though they may not be an in-stock item in average watch retailers.
    - Integrated bracelet--the bracelet and the watch case are either a single piece or an integrated design that does not include a standard strap connection. Sometimes a matching model with an adapted case design was offered for those who wanted a version of the same watch, but on a strap.
    - Loop end watch cases are common with the extremely dainty style of some vintage ladies watches. These were designed to connect to loop bracelets. There are alternative bracelets to fit such watches, but not leather straps.
      
      In most cases, no. If your watch can take a standard strap, then you can buy a strap of any decent brand. As long as it is of the correct width and sufficiently sturdy, you should be fine.
      
      Only a limited number of uniquely styled watches require specialized, non-standard straps only available from the manufacturer of that specific watch.
      
      But there are two particular advantage of buying a strap of the same brand. One is that the buckle on the strap will likely have the logo of the watch company on it. The other is that is keeps your watch more authentic, having the strap of the same brand. Both of these advantages are nice small touches that some people enjoy, while others see no need to go to additional effort or expense for them.
      
      Buying straps from the watch manufacturer can be difficult. Only a few of the fine watchmakers encourage their authorized dealers to stock a range of the manufacturer's straps in their stores. Other watchmakers require you to order them--often sight unseen--from a customer service center, or through an authorized dealer that may not even have samples or catalog photos to show you.
      
      What kinds of straps are available?
      
      Straps can be made of any of a variety of materials. The most common are:
      - Leather, other animal hides and simulated hides
      - Cloth, fabric, and nylon
      - Rubber or plastic
      - And they come in many different configurations:
      - Hide-faced, padded. A favorite for larger men's watches.
      - Hide-faced, flat. Typically used on slim dress watches.
      - Flat fabric. A simple but practical style. Favored by the military.
      - Moulded. Shaped straps of rubber or plastic.
        
        Tang-type buckle: By far the most common. Operates just like most men's belts, except does not have to be 'let out' near as often.
        Deployant clasp, inside style: On this style, the 'tail' of the watch strap goes on the inside of the clasp. While this style has a more elegant look, it does not always work with just any standard strap. Often, a custom strap is needed to prevent the tang-slot and keeper loop features of the strap from showing.
        Deployant clasp, outside style: With this second type, the tail of the strap goes on the outside--the same way it does with a standard tang-type buckle. This is the more common type and several versions are available that can fit on to most existing leather watch straps.
        What do I need to know to buy a strap?
        If your watch does take a standard strap, then all you really need to know is the width between the 'lugs' of the watch where the strap attaches.
        
        The Clasp or Buckle:
        [*]Standard tang-buckle strap: much like a traditional belt.
        [*]Deployant Clasp: a folding, locking metal clasp that operates similarly to the clasps on metal watch bracelets.
        
        The Buckle-End of the Strap:
        [*]Standard tang-buckle strap. Much like a traditional belt.
        [*]Deployant-specific. Special straps designed for particular types of deployant clasps. These are noticably longer on one side and lack the 'keeper' loop and the hole for the 'tongue' of a tang-type buckle. Note that not all deployant clasps require special straps--many are made to work with standard tang-buckle type straps.
        
        The width of the strap at the buckle end is seldom of concern to the strap buyer unless you are looking to use a different clasp than the one that comes with the strap. Most straps taper so that they are somewhat narrower at the buckle-end. Mens watch straps of 20 or 18mm at the watch-end are commonly 16mm at the buckle end. Some 20mm straps and most 22mm straps are 18mm at the buckle end. Ladies straps tend to taper 4-6mm less than the watch-end.
        
        The Watch-End of the Strap:
        
        Standard:
        Contour fit end straps offer greater elegance. Their contoured ends that fit flush against the contours of the watch case. Because the exact distance from the spring pins to the watch case and the specific curve of the case vary across watch designs, such straps are often fairly unique to a specific watch model.
        
        Non-Standard:
        [*]Have an integrated bracelet and lack the connections for a conventional strap. Note that some watches that look like the bracelet is integrated actually can have it removed and a standard strap attached.
        [*]Use a specially designed strap that is unique to the brand or model. While these look very elegant and stylish, they have the extreme disadvantage of forcing you to buy all your replacement straps at premium prices from the watch manufacturer.
        [*]Vintage watches that do not use standard removable spring pins.
        
        Width at the end that attaches to the watch is typically 18mm for standard men's dress watches. Mens sports-style watches may be 20mm or in a few rarer cases 22mm. Ladies watches typically range from 9mm to 14mm. Even sizes are most common, but you may encounter odd sizes on ladies or vintage mens watches.
        
        The Watch:
        [*]The parts of the watch that stick out to hold the detachable strap or bracelet are called the 'lugs.'
        [*]The watch itself may add around 1.5 inches (4 mm) to the circumference when attached to the strap. So when measuring for a strap, always add the length of your watch (measured from the top spring pin to the bottom one) when comparing the strap size to the circumference of your wrist.
        
        The Length of the Strap:
        [*]Length often listed merely as Regular, Short or Long. A mens Regular length strap usually accomodates wearers with 6.5 to 8" wrists.
        [*]Don't forget to add the size of the watch to the size of the strap when comparing to the circumference of your wrist.
        
        Courtesy of Chronocentric

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Dec 24 2004, 11:10 AM

BUYING A WATCH INEXPENSIVELY IN GENEVE, SWITZERLAND

There are so many competent watchmakers who clean, service and lubricate watches in Geneve that I find the quality of used watches astoundingly high. Speaking French is a big help. If not, you will be restricted to a much smaller group of retailers who can help you. I have only been to Geneve for a total of 18 months in the last 15 years and things do change. The first and absolutely best deals are to be found through a trustees sale. Huge discounts off of the Swiss pricing is only allowed under one condition; the prices are not put in the store windows and these circumstances only last for 30 days total.

The good thing is that these trustee/store closure sales usually go on between January 25th and April 25 of each year. It requires registration with the city of Geneve and then for this one 30 day period watches like Rolexes (and I've also seen Vacheron and Maurice Lacroix) can be sold at 40% off the Swiss retail prices. There is a refundable Value added tax which you apply for at the airport when you leave the country or at any of the customs bureaus if you drive out. This 7% tax is usually only available if it reaches some minimum amount like 200 Swiss Francs (US$120., this always seems to change).

The Geneve price is often as much as 40% cheaper than the USA retail price and more if the model sells for more than retail. I've seen a typical Patek Philippe Nautilus which sells in the USA for $18,000 going for 12,000 Swiss Francs (approx. US$7,000) in Patek Philippe's own store across the Rue de Rhone from Bucherer (a good place to visit too - see further).

A bit of checking with taxi drivers (French is a must) can get you to a trustee sale if one is going on. Bring cash and pick your watch one day, showing a serious interest. Tell the trustee that you will bring the money the next day if the right deal can be struck.

Take as much time as possible and notice everything. You may find that one model doesn't have exactly the numerals you want, another has a dial color which isn't exactly right, etc. If you are lucky enough to visit during the last week of the sale you will be astounded by the deals available. These will almost always be new watches with full international warranty.

There are almost never deals like this on Patek because they will always take all their watches back for their own inventory. But a trustee that is closing a store will take dealer cost + 10% if possible to pay a store's debts. Also try the stores in Lausanne and Montreux before you go to a more expensive way to purchase your watch. If a closing sale isn't possible then there are other options.

Bucherer often has watches that they took deposits on and then the customer returned to their country of origin without taking the watch. I've found good deals on these before. Also there are such things as Omega Chronometer overstock sales which go to dealers like Bucherer. Incredible prices can happen then too.

For used watches go to the flea market on Saturday morning (biggest) and Wednesday morning on the Plain Palais. There are many watch factory employees at these flea markets as well as a few dealers who sell used high-grade watches cheap. Dealers from foreign countries often go to these flea markets and buy up everything so there is a price below which deals cannot be made. There are two very interesting dealers in Geneve who can "get" almost anything from other dealers.

One is Hartmann's near the Vieux Ville (old city), another is across from the main square where tourist buses park in downtown behind and across from a large sewing machine shop (sorry I go their from memory and don't know the name or address but they are now Zodiac dealers and they have a watch repair shop which is visible through a large window from the street). The last dealer is across the trolley car station about ½ km. to the right of the main doors of the downtown Geneve train station. I know this doesn't sound like a feasible set of directions but by heading for the bridge across the Rhone from the train station you will see this shop off to the right.

Dealers who trans-ship need a bit of time. I usually pay about 1/2 the cost of the best deals my Canadian friends can squeeze retailers for in Montreal, Toronto or Vancouver. It used to be well publicized by some Geneve retailers that an American or Canadian could fly to Geneve, buy a 2 tone, stay a week and fly back while saving $500 off the price they would have paid on the watch in North America.

Bon Voyage

Source: http://www.time4watches.com/WatchKing/buying_in_Geneve.htm

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Jan 1 2005, 05:00 PM

Judge awards Cartier in copied watch case

DECEMBER 21, 2004 - New York -- The federal district court in New York has issued a decision affirming that Cartier has “trade dress” protection against a manufacturer who made expensive copies of four famous Cartier watches.

U.S. District Court Judge Constance Baker Motley found watch wholesaler Four Star Jewelry Creations liable for infringing Cartier’s trade dress rights in four Cartier watch designs: the Panthere, the Pasha, the Tank Francaise and the Tank Americaine. The court issued an injunction to prevent Four Star from making the watches in the future, and also awarded Cartier the defendants’ profits, since the watches were so similar to Cartier’s and thus likely to cause consumer confusion.

The court determined that the overall appearance of Cartier’s designs were worthy of trade dress protection because the public recognized and associated the designs with Cartier. The judge also ruled that the designs were “non-functional,” meaning the design features were not needed by competitors for function, manufacture or cost.

Cartier currently has a number of similar cases pending against dealers in “look-alike” watches in federal courts throughout the country.

“This decision is a step in the right direction in protecting the rights of not only Cartier but the whole luxury products industry,” says Stanislas de Quercize, president and chief executive officer of Cartier. “We are extremely gratified by the Court’s strong, clear and carefully reasoned decision, which will help protect our products, our partners, our clients and the Cartier brand.”

Courtesy National Jeweler

Posted by: Neo Jan 1 2005, 05:01 PM

Online jewelry and watch purchases surge

DECEMBER 21, 2004 - Reston, Va. -- The jewelry and watch category is the fastest-growing online product category in terms of purchases so far in 2004,according to comScore Network's monthly analysis of consumer online behavior.

Annual sales through Dec. 12 totaled $1.35 billion, an increase of 58 percent compared with the same period in 2003, comScore reports in a statement released Monday. Visits to jewelry, luxury goods and accessory sites rose 40 percent from October to November, with 13 million Americans visiting sites in these categories.

Department store Web sites also saw an increase in online visitors, gaining 21 percent more visitors from October to November, according to comScore. Overall, 128 million consumers, or 80 percent of the U.S. population that uses the Internet, visited retail Web sites in November.

"Consumers will spend more than $15 billion online this holiday season, but the Web's impact on retail extends far beyond its application as a direct selling medium," President and CEO of comScore Media Metrix Peter Daboll said in the statement, adding that many consumers use the Web to research product and compare prices for items they ultimately buy offline.

Courtesy National Jeweler

Posted by: Neo Jan 1 2005, 05:01 PM

Swatch withdraws as Alpine World Cup sponsor

DECEMBER 22, 2004 - St. Moritz, Switzerland -- The International Ski Federation (FIS) Alpine World Cup is looking for a new timekeeping sponsor after Swatch's last-minute withdrawal because of a contract violation, reports Dow Jones Newswires.

Swatch allegedly resigned from its timekeeping and data processing duties after discovering it didn't have the worldwide exclusivity it had been promised. FIS officials said that Swatch demanded to have worldwide exclusivity to provide timing and data processing for the event in exchange for on-screen television sponsor rights, for which the FIS council voted in favor Nov. 12. Austria, however, apparently violated the agreement after another brand offered them money in exchange for sponsorship rights.

Swatch's departure could leave FIS with a $5.3 million bill. Individual events could cost between $139,000 and $174,000. Swatch said it would provide its services for the races where it had pre-existing contracts-Kitzbuehel and Wengen-as well as the world championships in Bormio, Italy, in February.

Timing and data at this week's races in St. Moritz-a super-G on Tuesday and a giant slalom on Wednesday-will be provided by Delta Tre, an Italian company.

Courtesy National Jeweler

Posted by: Neo Jan 2 2005, 08:17 AM

Did you know.......

The Seiko 35 SQ Astron was the first quartz watch on the market.

The first commercially available quartz watch appeared on the market in Tokyo on Christmas Day in 1969. With a limited production run of only 100 pieces, these Seiko watches had analog dials and sold for 450,000 yen ($1250), roughly the same price as a Toyota Corolla. The Astron utilized a hybrid circuit (a combination of circuits on a single substrate which was an intermediate step between discrete circuits and integrated circuits) and a quartz oscillator with a frequency of 8,192 cycles per second. Seiko claimed the new watches were accurate to within about 5 seconds a month, a minute a year.

At the time Seiko produced more mechanical watches than any other firm in the world, but company officials had been experimenting with quartz timekeeping since the late 1950s. Their first quartz product was a clock used as a time standard in radio broadcasting. In 1959 a team was assembled to develop a quartz wristwatch. Their first quartz products were battery-powered chronometers, one of which was used in the Olympic Games in Tokyo in 1964. By 1967, Seiko engineers had miniaturized the timekeeper to produce a wristwatch prototype. To develop manufacturing techniques required another two years.
Not all time zones are in one hour increments. Some countries use 30 minute offsets. When the time in Greenwich is 12:00 noon, it is 8:30am in Newfoundland and 9:30pm in Australia. In Nepal, however, they use a time offset in quarter hours, so the time there would be 5:45pm. Daylight savings time on Lord Howe Island in Australia is only 30 minutes later than regular time.
The wristwatch was invented in 1904 by Louis Cartier.
There are 31,557,600 seconds in a year.
Horology - The science of time, timekeepers (watches, clocks) and timekeeping.
A jiffy is an actual measurement equal to 1/100th of a second.
The world's smallest atomic clock has been developed by physicists at the National Institute of Standards and Technology(NIST). It is small enough to fit on the tip of a pencil, yet is accurate to one second in 300 years.It operates on a AA battery. If it can be mass produced, it will replace the quartz watch, which is much bulkier and less accurate. We may see them one day in any devices that depend on accurate time, such as GPS systems and cell phones. Then you won't have any excuse for being late to work.
Prior to 1995, International Date Line split the country of Kiribati. The result was that the eastern part of Kiribati was a whole day and two hours behind the western part of the country where its capital is located.
The state of Arizona does not observe DST. However the Navajo Reservation in Arizona does change to Daylight time. The Hopi Reservation is within the Navajo Reservation and does not observe DST (as rest of the state).
The second is defined as exactly 9,192,631,770 oscillations or cycles of the cesium atom's resonant frequency, replacing the old second that was defined in terms of the Earth's motions. The newest generation of the "Atomic Clock" is accurate to 30 billionths of a second a year. It is the most accurately measured physical quantity in science.
Official U.S. Government time, as provided by NIST and USNO, is available on the Internet at Government Time . NIST also offers an Internet Time Service (ITS) and an AutomatedComputer Time Service (ACTS) that allow setting of computer and other clocks through the Internet or over standard commercial telephone lines. Free software for using these services on several types of popular computers can be downloaded there. Information about these services can be found on the Time and Frequency Division Web site.
To find out the time anywhere in the world, go to http://www.timezoneconverter.com. You can create a reference chart that is useful as a reference from your own time zone, to anywhere in the world.
Daylight Savings Time:First thought of by Benjamin Franklin in his 1784 essay, "An Economical Project".
According to Discover Magazine, scientists have managed to divide time down to attoseconds or 1/1,000,000,000,000,000,000 of a second (18 zeros). If a trip from New York to Los Angeles took one nanosecond (1 billionth of a second), then you would travel about 1/5 of an inch in one attosecond. At that speed, you could travel 112 million times around the earth in one second. Fast enough to get by in New York.

Posted by: Neo Jan 4 2005, 04:25 PM

deLaCour and Jean-Paul Journe win awards

January 03, 2005

Since 1996, World Photo Press has organized a Watch of the Year event in Japan. The 2004 ceremony was held at the end of the year in Tokyo’s Imperial Hotel and honoured the brands F.P. Journe and deLaCour.

The very impressive Bichrono by deLaCour was awarded the ‘Unique Design’ award and the ‘Watch of the Year’ winner was François-Paul Journe for his remarkable Tourbillon Souverain.

François-Paul Journe (left) and Pierre Koukjian of deLaCour

TOURBILLON SOUVERAIN by F.P. Journe and

BICHRONO by deLaCour

Courtesy europastar

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Jan 4 2005, 04:45 PM

Homeland Security Warning: Could a Watch become a Weapon?

January 4, 2005

Al Qaeda has proven over the years to be a patient and deadly enemy to the United States, and one that adapts to every move to stop them. Now comes word that Al Qaeda is taking a page from one of the most notorious attacks ever against the west to create even more carnage. According to U.S. intelligence sources, Al Qaeda is trying to obtain watches with a hidden butane lighter and watches with an altimeter built in, that together would be used to bring down commercial airliners.

Pan Am Flight 103 was brought down over Lockerbie, Scotland with a bomb that used an altimeter device to set it off. Al Qaeda, according to intelligence sources, is adapting that technology and trying to combine it with the butane releasing watches that are designed to be used as cigarette lighters.

Altimeter watches show how many feet above sea level a plane is. They are inexpensive, though they are not considered terribly accurate. In Pan Am Flight 103, the bomb was set to go off when the altimeter indicated the plane had reached a certain height.

The U.S. Department of Homeland Security bulletin specifically mentions Casio altimeter watches as the most readily available, although there are other brands out there. Watches that can be used as lighters are available on the Internet, and are also inexpensive.

This would make two crucial bomb making components easy for Al Qaeda to smuggle onto an airplane.

Watches are expected to make metal detectors go off, they are not given much scrutiny at airports. Richard Reid, who once smuggled a bomb onto a plane in his shoes, showed that the rest is frighteningly easy to get on board as well.

This information is all still coming into the Eyewitness Newsroom, we'll have more as it becomes available.

Source: ABC Eyewitness News

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Jan 9 2005, 01:00 PM

Manufaketure

By TED C. FISHMAN

The New York Times, January 9, 2005

Most of the pharmacies in China that dispense Western-style medicines have an antiquated, if reassuring, air about them. There are no posters on the walls for brand-name drugs. Candy is not for sale. Photo processing is not available. Druggists work in long white lab coats and surgical hats that could have been salvaged from a World War II hospital ship. Some pharmacies require prescriptions for the most potent drugs, others only an earnest chat with a druggist. Drug orders create paperwork that passes through three or four bureaucratic layers before reaching the solemn cashier, who issues a handwritten receipt.

Such an old-fashioned scene might argue for just how far China trails the United States and other advanced economies, where both science and marketing are seemingly years ahead. Yet these pharmacies also represent a current and urgent battleground in one of the most important struggles between the developed world and China's surging economic power. This is the fight over intellectual property and the related investments essential to the knowledge economy, that amorphously defined new world in which better ideas, not faster, cheaper hands create jobs and wealth. Despite their appearances, Chinese pharmacies are stocked with expertly copied versions of some of the world's most profitable medicines, patented products that generate hundreds of billions of dollars' worth of business in the United States, Europe and Japan. Even the very latest miracle drugs sell in China for a fraction, often one-tenth or less, of what their authorized equivalents in the United States cost.

Foreign companies lose control of their goods in two related ways: to counterfeiters who copy products and then sell them under different or altered brand names, and to pirates who make look-alikes and try to pass them off as the real thing. Using a lost-sales calculus, which measures the losses to foreign companies by determining the value of the dubious goods sold, the U.S. Department of Commerce estimates that American companies, as a result of counterfeiting and piracy, lose between $20 billion and $24 billion annually. The Japanese sacrifice even more: $34 billion. Throw in the sales lost by the European Union, and the cumulative losses for the three economic blocs approach $80 billion.

While losses to American and other advanced economies are high, China's appropriation and dissemination of the world's most valuable products and technologies, if they continue unabated, will ultimately mean a lot more than dollars lost. China's pirating and counterfeiting could radically change the way entertainment, fashion, medicine and services are created and sold. The companies, big and small, that Americans work for could be weakened. Chinese practices might reduce the prices of what we buy, by undermining the powerful companies that now control essential but expensive goods like drugs and computer software -- or these practices might, should China's unwillingness to accede to American copyright demands ignite trade wars, drive prices up. A U.S. consular official in China who requested anonymity -- few American officials are willing to speak openly about sensitive issues relating to China -- told me: ''Nothing has a higher priority in our trade policy than the fight to protect American intellectual property. It is every bit as important an effort for us as the war against weapons of mass destruction.''

The analogy has some merit. As with stolen bombs, the chief worry about losing control over intellectual property is not that American manufacturers will forego sales opportunities; the fear is that its new ''owners'' will turn our own innovations back on us and inflict much broader economic damage. For the United States, the world's most formidable producer and exporter of invention, entertainment and trademarked brands, the stakes are highest. William H. Lash III, the Commerce Department official who is leading a new initiative to change China's practices, vows that the Bush administration will take ''whatever means are necessary'' to force a change.

What makes China so troubling for American and other foreign companies is that the country is both a potential rival, with an alternative legal approach to intellectual property that limits their prospects in China and weakens their competitive strength globally, and a haven for pirates and counterfeiters. Start with the damage that fake drugs, for example, can do. Whether well made or poorly, they knock the genuine thing out of the market. According to the Chinese government-run press, hundreds of thousands of people in China have died from fake drugs that are either toxic or do not contain the active ingredients that users need. Drug companies report an increased threat from counterfeits entering the legitimate supply chains around the world. John Theriault, a 26-year veteran of the F.B.I. who now helps orchestrate anticounterfeiting efforts on behalf of Pfizer, says the company, working with Chinese authorities, has ''seized millions of units of counterfeit pharmaceuticals and thousands of kilos of compounds'' used to make them. In the worst cases, the fakes are commingled with legitimate products. ''You might have 2 bad pills mixed in with 28 good ones,'' he says. (In May 2003, 200,000 bottles that had been sold in U.S. pharmacies and that contained counterfeits of Lipitor, Pfizer's cholesterol-lowering pill, were recalled.) Fakes ''can ruin a brand and ruin a company,'' Theriault says.

But if bad imitations are a big problem, good imitations may be a bigger one. Pfizer happens also to be a prime example of what is arguably the most serious threat to U.S. knowledge-based companies in China: its intellectual-property rules. In the case of drugs manufactured before China agreed (in order to join the World Trade Organization) to adopt patent standards closer to the international norm, production continues as before -- that is, without any licensing fees paid to Western companies. Even today, however, Chinese companies, many of them government-run, simply continue to ''reverse engineer'' -- that is, take the known ingredients and work backward to figure out a process that produces accurate copies of -- the drugs (including recent blockbusters) and pay the foreign patent holders nothing. Increasingly, China's pharmaceutical companies are rushing to claim patents for their copies before foreign patent owners can assert their rights. This is what happened with Pfizer's Viagra, which has multiple Chinese imitators: the Chinese authorities denied patent protection for Pfizer and opened the market to Chinese knockoffs instead. (Pfizer is appealing.)

Press coverage in China of the Viagra decision made a point of noting that one Viagra pill costs 1 yuan to make, or around 12 cents, yet it sells for 98 yuan, or about $12. That sort of difference is sure to pique the attention of margin-squeezing Chinese manufacturers -- and perhaps encourage more copycats to rush into the market. Selling Chinese-made Viagra could turn a company into a future pharmaceutical Goliath, which would please China's rulers.

Certainly China also has a public health incentive to see that drug prices are affordable for its people, who earn on average one-fortieth of what Americans do and who rarely have health insurance. China's strategy often works: the fear of knockoffs entering the market drives the price of the patented drug down, and many important drugs cost less there than they do nearly everywhere else in the world. (Historically, medicines lacking patent protection, either because a time limit has expired or because countries like India or China simply offer no such protection, can experience price drops of more than 90 percent.)

The threat to American interests is not hard to identify. According to the Milken Institute, Big Pharma employs 400,000 Americans directly, creates another 2.7 million jobs and contributes $172 billion to the U.S. economy. It is one of the most important engines of the knowledge economy; in 2003 the pharmaceutical industry invested $33.2 billion in drug research. That does not include the nearly $30 billion spent on life sciences by the publicly financed National Institutes of Health, which pays for research that leads to commercial drugs. Weaken the drug industry and you weaken one pillar of the U.S. economy. And Pfizer's trouble with Viagra in China demonstrates just how vulnerable the American knowledge economy is in a world where ideas ''protected'' by our laws trade freely nonetheless. Behind almost every blockbuster drug, killer software application or computer-chip design is a public infrastructure that has steered uncountable sums and the country's best talents toward their creation.

Consider what an advanced economy like ours does best: make movies, produce television shows watched from Helsinki to Cape Town, turn out global pop stars. We design the software and processes that streamline the operations of giant retail chains and global high-tech manufacturers. We engineer advanced engines and the guts of the world's computers. We devise brands, durable corporate identities and fashions. We conjure new ways to move money and put it to work. We turn the most basic tasks into knowledge work. Modern printers, to note one example, rely heavily on the most advanced automated presses, computerized design tools and management and shipping for delivering materials efficiently to consumers and are as dependent on the latest software and technological innovations as a biotech lab. And those 2.8 million American workers who in recent years have lost their factory jobs? They don't learn new ways to use power tools. They are retrained in front of a computer; they learn to run the robots that do the jobs they used to do.

The trouble with this apparently successful state of affairs is that the stuff we do best exists nowhere and everywhere at the same time. Some of our most valuable things -- software codes, pharmaceutical processes, car designs, digital movie files -- weigh nothing and, as e-mail attachments, can move at the speed of light. To learn American ideas and procedures is all but the same as owning them. (Unless, of course, laws successfully prohibit their co-option.) In contrast, most of what China makes that finds its way into the world market is physical. The Chinese can borrow and steal the designs to our best products all they want. For instance, 90 percent of all software running on Chinese computers has been pirated and bought openly in stores for around $3 a copy. But if Americans wanted to borrow and steal what China makes, we would have to march in with an army and commandeer Chinese factories and workers. Western powers and the Japanese tried that in the mid-19th and -20th centuries, respectively, and will not repeat the experiment. China, however, can in a sense colonize the developed world simply through careful study and a willingness to go its own way on intellectual-property protection.

If China's commitment to wipe out commercial piracy and counterfeiting were judged by the laws that the country has on its books, the Chinese government would seem to be as strict as any. China has made a great show of cracking down in the past few years. Newspapers and television news programs regularly feature stories about government raids on massive counterfeiting operations. Hundreds of thousands of DVD's and dozens of duplicating machines seized here, a warehouse of CD's there and trucks full of sham designer handbags somewhere else. In December, China passed a much-awaited national law that criminalizes piracy and counterfeiting, allowing courts to jail violators for up to seven years; before, only civil penalties applied. The new law is unlikely to spur enforcement, however. And even if it does send people to prison, that may only prove a boon to the copycat economy. For example, just before Christmas, Sony announced the results of an investigation into Chinese operations that were daily turning out 50,000 fake PlayStation 2 game consoles and accessories: a container loaded with fake parts was found to have visited a prison in Shenzhen just long enough for inmates to assemble the parts. The Chinese themselves take it as given that powerful government interests stand behind the trade in counterfeit or pirated goods. What to foreigners may seem to be an aggressive action against a big piracy ring can look to the Chinese like a sort of St. Valentine's Day Massacre, where one powerful manufacturer uses police cover to eliminate a weaker one.

As the legal code grows fatter, so, too, do the supply and sophistication of fake goods. The places they are sold no longer look like back-alley stalls but like Main Street retailers. Near Beijing's diplomatic row, two outdoor markets once famous for knockoff fashions have been combined into a large, bright department store-like building with escalators, tailors on site and merchants with business cards, international shipping accounts and full stocks of fake fashions, designer tableware, brand-name musical instruments and, of course, thousands upon thousands of fake Swiss watches. The most common punishment counterfeiters face is the confiscation of whatever products they have in stock. Sometimes a pitiful fine is levied. China's National Copyright Administration cites with much fanfare 52 raids on video shops in 2003, but the total fines amounted to $6,900, or an average of $132 for each offender.

China's lax policies on copyright protection offer the country the advantages of both bread and circuses. Andrew Mertha, a political scientist at Washington University who has worked with Chinese and American officials on Chinese intellectual-property law, summarizes the circus side of things: ''If you're the Chinese leadership, do you want people idling around in the street, complaining about how unhappy they are, or do you want them home watching Hollywood movies?'' In other words, the government is slow to crack down on the piracy of entertainment products because these serve its social agenda. But is there any doubt that if vendors suddenly found a brisk market for DVD's promoting Tibetan independence or the virtues of Falun Gong, the outlawed religious sect, the DVD business would shrivel up overnight and all those anticounterfeiting laws on the books would find ready application? Indeed, when Sega's new online fantasy sports game ''Football Manager 2005'' had the gall to suggest that imaginary soccer leagues in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Tibet could be governed locally, rather than by the central government, China's Ministry of Culture banned the game on the grounds that it posed ''harm to the country's sovereignty and territorial integrity.'' Fines reached $3,600.

Because the overwhelming majority of products pirated and counterfeited in China are, for now, sold mainly in China, they provide the Chinese people with ''bread'' insofar as they make all sorts of other goods affordable. Often, as in the case of medicines and medical devices, some foods, school textbooks and clothing, these counterfeit products are essential goods. Thus, any government crackdown is essentially a tax on China's needy consumers.

Counterfeiters and pirates also serve the country by usurping the foreign technology that China needs to meet its ambitious industrial goals. In 2005, China will most likely be the world's third-largest trading nation, and counterfeiters give the country's increasing number of globally competitive companies the means to compete against powerful foreign rivals that pay for their use of proprietary technologies. In a broader geopolitical context, China's counterfeiters deny the world's advanced economies, especially in the U.S. and Japan, the opportunity to sell to China the valuable designs, trademarked goods, advanced technology and popular entertainment that the Chinese urgently desire but cannot yet produce on their own.

Put another way, China's failure to police industry and to protect intellectual-property acts, in effect, like one of the greatest industrial subsidies in the world. Chinese manufacturers and industries freely exploit foreign ideas and technologies. ''China helps distribute technology that has already been paid for by the developed world, often by companies, but also by taxpayers who support the government labs where much of the most important industrial technology begins,'' says Oded Shenkar, a professor of business at Ohio State University and the author of the recent book ''The Chinese Century.'' ''And, seen as a subsidy, this one is a particularly good deal for the Chinese government because it doesn't have to pay for it.''

For the most part, China fears no repercussions from its actions because the size and potential of its markets give China an undiminished (for now) power to lure the world's most advanced technology to its shores. For example, China for years has tendered the prospect of large, advanced transportation projects to foreign governments as a way to coax largess and technology from outsiders. When the Chinese government announced that is was considering high-speed magnetic levitation (''maglev'') cross-country train routes, Germany and Japan each put together government and business alliances to win future contracts there. The German industrial giants ThyssenKrupp and Siemens formed a partnership to build a nearly 20-mile maglev line in Shanghai to prove that they were up to the job. The line began operating last year while China was said to be considering which of several technologies to use. In December, workers for the German operation videotaped Chinese engineers poking around the maglev train's maintenance building in Shanghai at 3 a.m. one Saturday, apparently in search of confidential information. The manager of the Chinese operation that was a partner of the Germans clumsily excused the prowlers by saying they were merely taking part in a ''research and development'' exercise. Later that month, the government said that to save money it would eschew foreign designs for Chinese trains and, instead, employ newly developed indigenous maglev technology. Soon China could be exporting maglev trains for half the price Germany or Japan demand.

The generous and optimistic view of China's behavior is that it is a passing phase, and one not all that unusual for countries on the make. European powers once struggled to steal (and even transplant) one another's prime proprietary assets, like Mesoamerican gold, Brazilian rubber and Indonesian cloves. Blue-and-white Delftware was a Dutch attempt to copy China's porcelain works. At the dawn of the Industrial Revolution, American companies paid industrial spies to steal the designs of British machines. American theatrical producers routinely staged foreign operas and plays without permission; publishers sold dubious editions of English novels. More recently, Taiwan circumvented foreign patents and copyrights early in its post-World War II industrialization drive. And countries in Southeast Asia, Latin America, Africa and the former Soviet Union still operate well outside the developed world's norm for intellectual-property protection. Yet no other violators, past or present, match China's potential to change the rules of the world economy through piracy and counterfeiting.

Countries like Brazil or Vietnam may be as lax about copying as China is, but they do not have the industrial infrastructure or the ranks of skilled scientists and engineers to pull off the more ambitious copies of, say, drugs and automotive vehicles. China, however, has the expertise and infrastructure to reverse-engineer and produce nearly anything. And it has a market large enough to support the enterprise. The Chinese motorcycle industry provides a good example. Honda entered China in the 1980's and soon captured one-fifth of the motorcycle marketplace. But cheaper Chinese imitations appeared, and Honda's market share quickly halved. The company found that staying in China required that it enter into partnerships with some of the very companies copying its bikes. Now, with as many as 100 motorcycle makers in China, the country is the largest such manufacturer in the world, producing 15 million motorcycles a year (half of all new vehicles sold worldwide). Still the copying persists. The Japanese government estimates that of the 11 million motorcycles made in China in 2002, 9 million were imitations of Japanese products.

Oded Shenkar, who has long studied the Chinese automobile industry, argues that China's current regime is an essential factor in the country's ability to produce goods cheaply and get them quickly to market. In the U.S., about $1,000 of the price of an average car goes to pay for that model's product development; that's money the car maker invested over the course of years. Copiers pay none of that and can rush their products to market. ''Almost everything you can think of that is made in China has a very low technology investment embedded in it,'' Shenkar says. ''Drugs, DVD's, every trademark, software and whole production lines get copied. Some of the technology is transferred to China by multinational corporations and one way or another finds its way to other producers; others are simply 'borrowed.' The practices feed one another. Why pay for software to run a production line that is itself an unauthorized copy of someone else's technology and processes?''

This sort of technological expropriation allows China to create industries nearly from scratch. Though it costs tens or hundreds of millions of dollars to develop new-model cars and motorcycles, China is home to hundreds of companies that produce the vehicles, many of them small companies with limited sales. ''You can't start an automobile company that sells a few thousand cars a year and still pay the $500 million or more it costs to develop a new model,'' Shenkar says. ''Where else in the world could a company that makes 30,000 units compete with one that makes a million units?'' The hopeful analogy that compares China with earlier, now-reformed ''borrowers'' simply ignores the scale of the long-term advantages that both encourage and result from China's copying.

Unless it comes up with a remedy that forces China to change, the United States will have to find its own solutions. Ken DeWoskin, a professor emeritus of Chinese studies at the University of Michigan and a consultant who advises PricewaterhouseCoopers on China, argues that China, as in the Viagra case, will increasingly take on the veneer of an American-style intellectual-property regime while finding ways at every step to assert its interests within that system. ''American pharmaceutical companies will be very seriously attacked by China's approach to I.P.,'' DeWoskin says. ''You can already see how China is changing the rules of the game.'' Americans, he notes, pay higher drug prices than consumers in other economies can sustain, all for products made here at home. A result is that we underwrite both our companies and the rest of the world's consumption. How much American consumers will tolerate other kinds of similarly expensive economic nationalism is hard to predict, but DeWoskin says he can envision the U.S. economy slowly but surely adopting such measures, much as Japan has to protect its domestic markets and companies. Japan's economy is structured to support national industries over foreign rivals. Japanese consumers, for instance, typically pay more at home for goods manufactured in their own country than consumers outside pay for Japan's products. Without realizing it, Americans have already tilted toward the Japanese arrangement in pharmaceuticals.

One approach that vulnerable companies trumpet is speeding up the pace of innovation and rushing their products to market before Chinese competitors can catch up. But this solution overlooks the extent to which the Chinese themselves are increasingly skilled at hurrying copycat goods to market. Another approach is to sell legitimate goods at lower prices. Already, China's loose intellectual-property protection has done what years of legal and political pressures on the software and pharmaceutical industries in the U.S. have failed to do: forced powerful American companies to rethink, and often reduce, their prices. Chinese and Indian drugs that fall outside Western-style patent protection are drastically cheaper in poorer countries. Microsoft recently introduced less expensive versions of its software in developing countries where patent and copyright protections are weak (though the company has yet to do so in China).

Another approach to the Chinese intellectual-property regime is to leverage its vitality. The Japanese may be showing the way here too. In September, Toyota surprised the world's automobile makers by announcing that it would join with China's government-owned First Auto Works Corporation to start building its Prius hybrid cars in Jilin, a northeast Chinese province. The innovative Prius is one of the world's most sought-after cars -- why would Toyota bring its hottest technology to China where it is almost certain to be carefully studied and boldly copied? The company says that it just wants to make more cars to meet demand. But an American management consultant who asked not to be identified told me that Toyota could have a deeper strategy that actually counts on Chinese manufacturers to usurp and adapt some of the car's technology. The car's central and perhaps most expensive component is its battery. China has already taken a sizable piece of the small-battery business away from leading Japanese manufacturers in recent years, thereby pushing battery prices down by 40 percent or more. The country is also a leading producer of electric motors. China is just the place, in other words, to drive down the price of the Prius's battery and motor, and if that happens it will give Toyota an even bigger jump on the rest of the world's car makers struggling to design and produce their own hybrids. Toyota's move into China could even transform the automotive industry by luring car buyers into hybrids faster. In effect, Toyota may be hoping to ride China's copycat tendencies past American competitors and into the top spot among world car makers -- provided, of course, that Chinese manufacturers do not do to Toyota what they did to Japan's motorcycle makers.

It's a dangerous bargain, becoming partner to a system that's a relentless competitor at the same time. The Chinese government recently announced that it would suspend the purchase of large aircraft in 2005, claiming it wants to cool off an overheating domestic aviation industry. It's just as likely that China wants to give its aircraft industry a chance to catch up with foreign manufacturers like Boeing. If so, the American industrial giant, which has pinned much of its future growth on sales in China and has aggressively transferred technology to China in order to secure its place there, may well lose billions in sales -- and end up with a competitor that can match its current technology and beat it on cost. Last month, China announced the first international sale of 20 domestically produced midsize passenger planes.

Ted C. Fishman is the author of ''China, Inc.: How the Rise of the Next Superpower Challenges America and the World,'' to be published next month by Scribner and from which this article is adapted.

Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/01/09/magazine...OUNTERFEIT.html

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Jan 9 2005, 01:48 PM

Ulysse Nardin - Freak ref. 016-88

by Marcus Hanke

© text: M. Hanke; © pics: Ulysse Nardin and M. Hanke

Products of the 'haute horlogérie' normally receive names that reflect their luxury, uniqueness and tradition. That Ulysse Nardin dubbed a very expensive watch "Freak", certainly was met with some astonishment. However, as soon, as we held that product in our hands, we realized that this name was well deserved. A watch that features no hands showing the time, but where the movement itself serves that purpose; a manual-winding watch, which features no crown to wind it or to set the hands; all the conventions that have been accepted as being the traditional base of mechanical watches, seemingly have been ignored. And whoever thought that a watch like the "Freak" can be produced in a conventional manner, will learn the contrary now:

The complete production time of a "Freak" is six weeks, but of this, the actual assembly needs but two days. In order to understand this, one has to know the really freaky way of how a "Freak" is made:

The watch case is like a 'sandwich', that consists of several parts, rotating within each other. Between them, gaskets and Teflon-coated gliding surfaces are responsible for water tightness and perfect function. Additionally, the case includes the internal teethed thread necessary for the movement of the 'minute bridge'.

The case assembly is done by some members of the team, and water tightness and the correct dimensions are tested without the movement mounted inside the case.

Separately assembled is also the mainspring barrel, which is fixed on the caseback, with its hour wheel and the 'bridge', which by its rotation shows the hours. It is held by the teethed rack on the case's inside. As a next step, this sub-assembly is mount into the case, and all the measurements and its proper working is tested, without the rest of the movement added.

The "Freak's" movement itself is the small "baguette" with its wheels and the arrowhead, showing the minutes. It consists of a baseplate, the wheels and their bridge, the escapement with another small bridge atop, and the balance wheel with its large cock. The different members of UN's "Freak team" each assemble their proper movements, and mount them into their proper watches.

But before, the movements are tested and adjusted. Yes, you are reading correctly: The Freak movements are adjusted outside their cases, since once the cases are closed, no further adjustment is possible without complete disassembly of the case. Each movement is put on a specific stand and fed with energy by a small motor drive. There, they are tested for accuracy and amplitude. A laser is used for this purpose, since the traditional methods, mostly with sensible microphones, are not applicable with the Freak. Thus, the Freak movements pass a "curing time" on their stands, until they finally are mounted into their cases.

A "Freak" movement in its assembly stand

Amplitude testing with a laser

Afterwards, the case is closed. Then follows the final testing, ensuring that the movement's regulation outside the case is still okay, once the movement is encased. This happens over two periods of eight days each. During the first eight days, the watch is tested in different static positions, and during the latter, it is moved on a watch winder. The reason for this strict testing is, of course, the fact that once the case is closed, no adjustment is possible. As a consequence, all is done to keep the risk of maladjusted movements as small as possible.

Those of you happy to call a "Freak" their own now know that "freaky" is not only appropriate as a description of their watch's appearance, but also of its peculiar manufacturing process.

I want to sincerely thank Ulysse Nardin's technical director, Mr. Pierre Gygax, for supplying my with all the valuable insights!

Source: http://www.tp178.com/mh/freak_production/freak_prod.html

Posted by: Neo Jan 9 2005, 01:50 PM

Welcome to the FREAK Show !!

Text and pictures © Ulysse Nardin

The Freak openly displays everything. Every single part of the mechanical movement is visible. The two bridges indicate hours and minutes. Resetting is effected by turning the top bezel.

While the mainspring barrel rotates, the fixed rack transmits its power to the movement.

The hour wheel arbor is mounted on the blue mainspring barrel. The wheel rolls in the fixed rack and drives the centre-pinion. The grey bridge rotates once in 12 hours and is used as hour hand, too.

The Carrousel-Tourbillon movement is assembled onto the centre-pinion. Its first wheel rolls on the fixed rack and gathers the necessary power to maintain the oscillation of the balance.

« DUAL DIRECT »

How does this escapement work?

Step 1:

The BALANCE is about to move the STOPPER and to unlock the 1st WHEEL.

Step 2:

When the BALANCE passes its neutral position, the 1st WHEEL is freed and accelerates in order to catch up with the Balance IMPULSE TOOTH.

Step 3:

The 1st WHEEL gives an impulse onto the Balance IMPULSE TOOTH.

Step 4:

The BALANCE rides along its free arc, the 2nd WHEEL sits against the STOPPER.

Step 5:

The BALANCE returns to move the STOPPER and unlock the 2nd WHEEL.

Step 6:

The BALANCE passes its neutral position, the 2nd WHEEL is freed and accelerates in order to catch up with the Balance IMPULSE TOOTH.

Step 7:

The 2nd WHEEL gives an impulse onto the Balance IMPULSE TOOTH.

Step 8:

The BALANCE rides along its free arc, the 1st WHEEL sits against the STOPPER.

And this is how the whole process appears in motion:

(Animation sequence delayed,

to make the detection of the various phases a bit easier)

Source: http://www.tp178.com/mh/freak_works/freak_works.html

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Jan 10 2005, 07:08 AM

Gold Content in Watches

Since the earliest watches were produced in Europe, gold has been used for adornment or to improve the operation of the movements. In a few cases pure, 24 karat gold was used. Gold has certain chemical and mechanical properties that make it useful in watch manufacturing and use. Gold oxidizes very slowly if at all. Gold's softness and malleability make it easy to form and to some extent it is self-lubricating. Gold takes a high polish and retains it. Gold also produces almost no allergic reactions in people. Gold is very dense so in some cases it can be used as a substantial weight on an autowinding rotor to improve winding energy. Gold was one of the first metals to be purified and it's chemical and mechanical properties were well known to Renaissance and earlier scientists.

Some of the properties that made gold useful also caused problems for its users and owners. A pure gold watch case might look great but with any stress it is easily marred or dented. Parts that were heavily used, like the winding crown, could easily wear out, becoming useless in a short period of time. Various other watch parts like hunter case lid latches were not feasible to make out of pure gold. In fact pure gold has had very few uses in watchmaking.

There have been some notable exceptions to that rule. Mido put a 24 karat gold plating on the cases of some of their watch models and boasted about it by marking each one "24kt gold plated". This was unusual because 100% gold plate did not usually adhere well to other metals. Mido's special plating process was unique in this respect. These watches were some of the least allergenically interactive watches ever made and were produced in dress watch styles so that wearers would be unlikely to put hard use on them. Before stainless steel and nickel plates were readily available for watches, a chemical process called "gold washing" was developed to put a very light pure gold plating onto brass watch surfaces to reduce oxidation on the watch's internal parts. This process worked so well that many watches produced in the 1700s and 1800s have brass plates still glistening with their pure gilt "washing". The color of pure gold is almost orange/green and it identifies the Mido watches and gold washed plates using it. In a few cases pure gold gears were used in watch movements but this was not done often as gold's shock integrity is low and such gears deformed easily. Alloys of gold though, have been used extensively in modern watches.

The Karat System

The karat system based on increments of 1/24th parts is very old and has been retained by the gold processing industry because of its universality. In Europe this old system of purity measurement has been codified with percentages as well. For example 14 karat gold is 14/24th gold and 10/24th other metals. In Europe it is also known as .585 gold and it is often hallmarked as such. Other popular karat designations and their percentage hallmarks are 22 karat (.917), 20 karat (.830), 18 karat (.750), 10 karat (.415) and 9 karat (.375). In every case the percentage designation is the amount of gold in the metallurgical alloy of gold, so that 18 karat gold is in fact 75% gold and 25% other metals. These percentages refer to the amount of gold by WEIGHT not volume.

23 karat gold rotors have often been used on very high-end watch rotors to increase the winding efficiency. Being very dense and not subject to much oxidation from oil contamination these rotors are very heavy for their size and will remain brilliant and shiny for very long periods of time. This is especially important if the rotor is intricately engraved, as cleaning will often dull the finish and the finely carved or scored surface cannot be buffed or polished. In this case the alloy is produced by "doping" the pure gold with as hard of a metal as is metallurgically possible. The most common doping materials are palladium, silver, copper or iridium. Palladium and iridium are very hard and will mix reasonably well with molten gold. These metals will also not dull the final alloy the way titanium or tungsten metals would. 23 karat gold has often been used in coinage because it is much harder than pure gold but it has only a small amount of other precious metals in the alloy. Although 23 karat gold is perhaps three or four times as hard as pure gold it is still soft compared to almost any other metal and so it's use is limited in watchmaking.

22 karat gold and 20 karat gold alloys have been used extensively in case manufacturing. In some cases gold jewel seating cups have been made of 20+ karat gold to resist oxidation and also because the jewel cups will fit more completely into the jewel seat if the gold is very soft. The small rings of gold often seen in pre-1890 American railroad pocket watches were often made of "soft" gold alloys. Although it is unusual to use 22 karat gold in other parts of the watch there is a notable exception.

Certain watch companies that made engraved or florentined dials (like Snyder) preferred using 22 or 23 karat gold in them. The intention was to be able to create an intricate pattern on the dial, which might even have the appearance of a woven texture. Since these dials could never be brushed or touched after being made, 22/23 karat gold was chosen as the dial base and surface medium because it would remain in the final state of its textured finish for hundreds of years. To clean the dial finish it was only necessary to dip the dial in a chemical bath with ultrasonic impulse vibration and loose dirt and fibers floated away. Zenith produced thousands of gold-cased watches with gold dials with the Movado brand during the years 1969-1972. These watches with their engraved dials are every bit as striking and beautiful as the day they left the Zenith factory.

Red Gold, White Gold, Green Gold and Rose Gold

Harder alloys of gold begin to have different purposes in watchmaking once other metals make up 25% of the weight of the "gold" and substantially more of it's volume. The following descriptions of the qualities and liabilities of various 18 karat gold alloys may be used a as a guide to the qualities and liabilities of 14, 12, 10 and 9 karat gold alloys. Obviously the content of non-gold metals BY WEIGHT is much greater proportionally but the general features are the same. These descriptions are meant as a rough guide to understanding gold alloys using 18 karat forms as examples.

Using 18 karat red gold as an example we can see how this works. 18 karat red gold has approx. 1/4 of it's weight in copper and 3/4 of it's weight in gold. Because gold is 3.1 times as dense as copper the amount of copper in 18 karat red gold by volume is greater than that of the gold. Red gold is a good subject for discussion as well, because many people are allergic to copper metal directly on the skin and so 18 karat red gold produces rashes in some people who wear wristwatch cases made of this material. Pocket watch cases are usually not worn directly in contact with skin and so the allergy problem is greatly reduced. "Black Hills Gold" that is red in color is often a natural alloy of gold and copper. Inside a watch, 18 karat red gold might be used for decorative jewel cups because its color might be interesting to the maker decoratively. Copper adds considerable hardness to gold, pure copper has been readily available for thousands of years and the two metals alloy well together. Solid 18 karat red gold gears are often used in watches with gold trains because such gears are self-lubricating. Brass and steel gears are often plated with various karat gold not only to protect from oxidation but to provide a degree of lubrication as well. For this reason many of the gears (or wheels) used in pocket watches with solid gold trains were made of 18 karat red gold. Many 18 karat alloys of gold are available using other metal alloys to produce a wide range of different hardnesses and colors.

18 karat white gold is a very common jewelry material and is often used in watch cases and bracelets. By weight it is usually 75% gold, 3% silver, 12.5% palladium and 9.5% copper. This makes white 18 karat gold about the costliest to make because palladium is very expensive. With such a large amount of palladium in the gold it is also a very hard form of gold and thus wears well. Only 18 karat green gold is harder amongst common forms. White gold has only 12.5% copper and silver combined and these metals can cause allergic or poisonous reactions in many people, so this form of 18 karat gold is one of the least allergenic. 18 karat white gold polishes well and also resists scratching. It's weight and subtle coloring makes it a popular case material for high-end watches. White gold is also one of the two most dense colors of gold.

18 karat green gold is one of the least common alloys of gold and is available most widely in "Black Hills Gold" products. The composition of 18 karat green gold makes it the hardest form of 18 karat gold normally available. 18 karat green gold is an alloy using 75% gold, 2% silver, 3% palladium, 5% copper and 15% chrome. Chrome has a blue cast in its pure form and it is a very hard metal on its own. Chrome causes some severe allergic reactions so the use of green gold in watch cases has been limited but there have been some watch cases made from this material by Longines, Ardath, Elgin, Hamilton, Waltham and Patek Philippe. Although 18 karat green gold will polish to a mirror-like finish and it will resist scratching very well, the color is not very fashionable and the possibility of allergic reactions has limited its use in watch cases.

18 karat rose gold is an alloy usually produced by mixing 75% gold, 16% copper and 9% silver together. This type of gold alloy is very fashionable and thus is frequently used in jewelry and watch cases. Rose gold has often been used in solid 18 karat watch gears as well. Were it not for one physical and two psychological factors that make yellow gold the most popular, rose gold would likely be the most popular. As it stands in today's market, rose gold is slightly less popular than white gold. Rose gold has a very high copper content and this can cause some allergic reactions. Although it is not as common to have allergic reactions to rose gold as with red gold, there are many more reactions than there are with white gold. In addition, silver is actually poisonous and rose gold contains much more silver than white gold. These physical factors make rose gold slightly less popular than white gold in the market.

NOTE: Base Metal Content percentages may vary slightly with each manufacturer.

Yellow Gold

The most popular forms of 18 karat gold are both yellow. One form of popular 18 karat yellow gold is light yellow in color and it has the psychological advantage of looking like what people think pure gold should look like. Although this form of yellow gold is much "whiter" than real 24 karat gold, it is people's perceptions that shape their buying. For many years brass objects were gold plated to reduce oxidation and improve the surface sheen. This type of plated material looked very orange, almost like real 24 karat gold. This color of gold developed an image of being "cheap" and tacky. Lower karat forms of "pure" gold had a high silver content but consumers perceived the solid low karat gold color to be superior because this material was solid and the color went through and through as well as never tarnishing or oxidizing. The light yellow form of 18 kart gold has a metal content with 75% gold, 16% silver and 9% copper. The disadvantage of this type of yellow gold is that it's silver content is the highest of all 18 karat gold. This high silver content makes it very soft and scratchable and more likely to trigger a poisonous reaction in some people. Light yellow 18 karat gold is also the densest form of 18 karat gold and so if weight is a factor this is the preferred alloy. The biggest problem that occurs in watch cases using this type of gold involves bent or cut lugs. Metal watch bracelets and spring bars can rip this form of gold and lugs will bend very easily. If the public's perception wasn't so firmly entrenched in favor of this color of gold, it would have few physical characteristics that would make it the most popular color. This color of gold is so dominant in the wedding band industry, that it is the most readily available form of 18 karat gold now and it will continue to be so for many years to come.

The second form of yellow 18 karat gold is very popular because it really does look more like 24 karat gold than any other form. This type of gold alloy is made up of 75% gold, 12.5% silver and 12.5% copper. This type of yellow gold scratches less easily than the light colored form of yellow gold and it is more orange in color. This is the second most common form of 18 karat gold although 18 karat white gold is fast approaching it in popularity. This form of yellow gold is the second most dense and yet it is measurably harder than the other form of yellow gold because of the hardness added by copper. This means that if a watch case is made to be water resistant or exceptionally thin the darker and more orange form of yellow gold will be better because of its greater structural integrity. We forget that case hardened copper can be made so hard that battle swords were made from it 5,000 years ago. Buyers of high-end watch brands often prefer the darker form of yellow 18 karat gold also because they know it more closely resembles the color of 23 karat gold coins. This means that watch cases made from the darker color of yellow gold will last longer than the lighter colored alloy. In any case, yellow gold so totally dominates the market that this color in total is twice as popular as all the other forms combined in terms of total market share.

There have been experiments in the production of other colors of gold but there seems to be almost no market for blue or violet color gold although there are some rare earth metal forms of violet gold that are available in Black Hills Gold products.

In the industrial market there are some unusual forms of 18 karat gold alloys that have found their way into the watch case market. 18 karat gold that has a very high percentage of titanium is by far the hardest gold alloy form available. It's color is rather dark compared to most other forms of yellow 18 karat gold. Titanium is not considered a precious metal and silver is. Making gold alloys with non-precious metals is common since copper is almost always used in gold alloys, but this is because copper is in the gold family and mixes well itself with gold as well as allowing other metals to mix well with gold. Titanium adds a "light' feel to gold that can be disconcerting to consumers. It's 18 karat alloy is thus used most commonly as a form of 18 karat gold plating. It adheres well to most metals and is remarkably scratch resistant. Unfortunately 18 karat gold made with titanium as a doping material does not polish well, requiring special diamond grits and long periods of buffing because of the alloy's hardness. This processing consideration also has discouraged the watch case makers from using it too often.

NOTE: Base Metal Content percentages may vary slightly with each manufacturer.

Since the color of gold has become part of the consumer psychology gold has been used as a covering on other materials to decoratively enhance them and to reduce allergic reactions.

There have been three basic ways that a gold surface has been applied to a base metal watch case:

gold-filling,
rolled gold plate
gold electroplating.

Rolled gold plate is similar except that the sheets of base metal are thicker proportionally. In these first two cases the multi-metal material is made first and then the "blanks" are formed into the desired case shape afterwards.

Gold electroplating involves making a case out of a base metal first and then etching the case so that it will accept an even layer of karat gold (the "gold" layer's thickness is usually measured in microns). "Resist" can be applied to those portions of the case where gold plating is not desirable. If 18 - 24 karat gold plate is to be applied there is sometimes an intermediary step of "electro-blasting" tiny copper nodules onto the base metal before the plating process is undertaken. This will help the softer gold platings to adhere to the case material.

When a watch case has only a thin layer of gold alloy on it's surface the rule is "the harder the better". Gold is very soft, even 9 karat green gold (which is one of THE hardest gold alloys) is much softer than steel and many other kinds of base metal. This means that the gold alloy on the surface of the case will wear off fairly easily. This also means that a heavy 10 karat gold plating or filling on a watch may last substantially longer than an 18 karat plating or filling. The reality is that the amount of actual gold in watch case with a plated or filled surface is so insignificant that the real value in the gold finish, involves how long it will last and look attractive. In this case the reverse of normal buying psychology should be employed. The lower gold content in 9 or 10 karat gold makes them better for plated or filled cases because they will stand up to daily use without wearing through quickly.

Unfortunately the high percentage content of other metals in 9 or 10 karat gold may trigger allergic responses in some people. Pitting is also a possibility not only in gold-filled or plated surfaces but also even with solid 9, 10, 12 or 14 karat gold. Certain acids produced by the body or found in industry will actually attack the base metals in gold alloys. If the gold plating is very thin (less than 10 microns) it is possible for oxidation to come through the gold surface material. Gold is dense but can be porous.

The psychological desirability of gold finishes goes back in human interest for thousands of years. The gold tomb ornaments of the early Egyptians still enthrall tourists who see them. Even though 18 karat white gold is costlier and contains more precious metal than 18 karat yellow gold, the yellow versions are definitely more popular. Gold finishes and solid karat gold cases give watch buyers a "feeling" of luxury. If buyers are aware of the realities of gold and gold alloys, it will be possible to make a better decision about buying watches with gold finishes.

The actual amount of gold in most watches is only a small portion of their retail value. A watch with 3 ounces of 18 karat gold used in its manufacture will likely retail for more than $5,000, while the value of the gold will be less than $750. This same watch made of all stainless steel, will likely cost 40%. This shows us the fascination humans have with gold. The old adage is that "gold doesn't lose its lustre", both a fact of science and a comment on the psychology of gold.

Chart of Atomic mass along with equivalent volumes of other metals

Element|Atomic Mass|Volume vs Gold
- Gold|197|1:1
- Iridium|192.2|1:1.02
- Silver|107.9|1:1.83
- Palladium|106.4|1:1.85
- Copper|63.5|1:3.1
- Chrome|52|1:3.8
- Titanium|47.9|1:4.1

TwoTone · February 2, 2007

Posted by: Neo Jan 10 2005, 07:23 AM

Is a quartz watch with a sweep second hand different from an automatic?

There are quite a few issues here but perhaps I can comment on a few of the more salient considerations. Quartz watch drive systems are much lower in inertia compared to mechanicals. One of the reasons why Accutrons are not being made today is because this hybrid intermediary inertia system could not be sufficiently developed to overcome some of the major problems. With today's battery technology Accutrons SHOULD be feasible but alas ...

If you look carefully at any mechanical watch with an operating frequency below 32,400 vph you will see that there is a barely perceptible rebound (backwards) movement to the second hand. Unlike tower clocks whose second hands are damped in their forward movement, most watch second hands are undamped to some degree. This puts a piece of metal in motion to bang up against another piece of metal (not counting detent chronometers of course where the banging metal occurs internally and the second hand is released not revolved). This banging is what creates the second hand jitter which is additional to the stuttering movement.

In a quartz watch the second hand is propelled forward by a pulse like a regulator clock in a school or train station. The second hand is ultralight nowadays (unlike a mechanical system with a second hand which "balances" part of the escapement inertia and which would wiggle incredibly if it was ultralight). Even at higher movement rates the second hand on a quartz mechanism wouldn't look like the second hand on a mechanical watch.

In addition mechanical watches tick. The ticking effect is real, just watch the reaction of a puppy to a loud mechanical alarm clock that it can have for its own. With the right teething handle on the clock the puppy may want to carry it around "for company". So do puppies prefer tickers to digital pulse systems, well ... they used to. Now with lift activated "talking clocks" using the owners voice, the puppy would much prefer to carry the box "with the bigger dog's voice" around "for company" instead of the ticker. Mechanical watches can reassure the owner with sound and whenever wearers were unsure of their mechanical watches they used to put them up to their ear. This impulse reaction is fading from the culture due to quartz watches which are usually go-nogo systems. There used to be watchmakers with failing eyesight who could diagnose movement problems simply by listening to the movement.

So the real issue here is what people's expectations are with quartz watches and could they be fulfilled. The 1/10 second quartz module already exists and could easily be incorporated into a watch. Jaeger and Seiko both have prototypes and test runs in the field for testing. The battery isn't a problem although the cost for the new tooling is a consideration. The smooth flowing second hand of the Accutron did have its fans. A watch made for Lucien Piccard had a vibration rate of 39,600 vph and it's second hand seemed to flow as well (although it is a real pain to regulate). There will be enough fans to make this specialized second hand a reality.

Will it overcome a fascination with ticking that humans have become conditioned to expect over the last 500+ years, I don't know. Eventually it may, but there are still ticking, ringing tower clocks all over Europe. People will still have grandfather and cuckoo clocks in their homes. For the next hundred years or so people may grow up (and thus be conditioned from childhood) in the presence of a ticker. Minus this reassurance humans can feel a loss. Most likely when we have talking response devices that tell us the time (and other things, from birth, when we whack them, as sort of a baby's minute repeater with mama's voice) only then will the mechanical ticker become less interesting and thus more forgotten.

All transition periods are like this. The difference between tube sound and transistors led some companies to "add" rounding distortion to their "sound" to retain customers who complained about the dryness of transistor sound. When CDs began to replace vinyl people claimed there was something lost although they acknowledged something was gained. We humans need accurate timekeeping to run our complex daily lives. In reality we don't need a constant reminder of the passing seconds, but constant movement reassures us that this important device is working, easing our insecurities. The 4 second attention span of the MTV generation makes this amount of time about the limit of our patience when we are determining if our "device" is working (which is why Nintendo had to keep attention getting messages onscreen as game programs loaded, or the audience thought the game player had broken).

There is nothing intrinsically "bad" about a one second pulse rate. Old slow-beat fusee movement watches had 1 or 2 pulse per second advance rates for their second hands. What is funnier was the clutch connected second hand which could be stopped while the hour and minute hand continued to move correctly. The second hand was only there as an accessory. I'm sure there will be watches with quartz drives and flowing second hands available soon (so please write your favorite watch company, except of course Blancpain, to hurry them along). This will be a niche market item. It will out-MTV MTV. If the 1/10 second pulse interval is visible (unlike the synchronous motor clock second hand which flows at 60 pulses per second) we might be able to respond to the pulses which fascinate us. Like watching the activity of ants frantically building nests, collecting food and fighting for territory, the pulsed/flowing second hand may intrigue enough humans to inspire its own fan base in the market.

Source: http://www.time4watches.com/WatchKing/quar...eep_seconds.htm

NRG · February 3, 2007

TT please stop!

As wonderfull as this is, there's no way anybody is going to be able to trawl through all of this and keep track of where the reference info is. It needs some sort of index even if it's as crude as post number!

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

TT please stop!

As wonderfull as this is, there's no way anybody is going to be able to trawl through all of this and keep track of where the reference info is. It needs some sort of index even if it's as crude as post number!

@NRG

You're missing the point...

This is an archive from our sister site...

It is being brought here in it's original format and posting...

It is for the reader to explore...

Nothing about "indexing" is relevant...

One can casually browse the pages to mine its worth, or when one uses the "Search" function they may be surprised...

If the Thread bothers you then simply quit reading it...

TT

PS: I am however through with the transferring of headers... We all know who the OP is by now...

Pugwash · February 3, 2007

As wonderfull as this is, there's no way anybody is going to be able to trawl through all of this and keep track of where the reference info is.

This is where the Search feature comes in.

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

This is where the Search feature comes in.

Yep...

Read my post right above yours...

TT

Pugwash · February 3, 2007

Read my post right above yours...

Coo, we appear to have been replying at the same time. Hmm, are you following me?

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

Did You Know???

In 1797 William Pitt, the English Prime Minister, introduced a tax on all privately owned watches and clocks in Great Britain.

Because of Britain's financial difficulties a whole new set of taxes had to be introduced. By November 1797, Britain had a budget deficit of £22 million.

Because of the tax on watches and clocks many people were unable to afford the five shilling duty to keep a clock or pocket watch and relied on the clocks in taverns for the time. The clocks in taverns acquired the new name of “Act of Parliament Clocks”.

The Tavern clocks were driven by a weight and had a long pendulum, like a grandfather clock. The dial was very large, 2 – 3 feet in diameter, some dials were as wide as 5 feet.

The tavern owners were happy to pay the tax because their clock attracted customers. The tax was only in force for 9 months but the loss of business and hardship caused to clockmakers forced Pitt to repeal the Act.

- Breguet’s most famous watch was the “Marie-Antoinette” watch

The watch was commissioned for Marie-Antoinette. Unfortunately, Marie-Antoinette never saw the watch as her head had been cut off 34 years before the watch was completed. She was 37 years old.

The watch had every complication known at the time. Work on the watch started in 1783 and was finally completed in 1827, four years after Breguet's death.

The watch eventually ended up in the L.A. Mayer Institute in Jerusalem. It was stolen in April, 1968 and hasn’t been seen since.

- There are not 365 Days in a Year

There are roughly 365.25 days in a year. That is an increase of ¼ of a day each year that is not shown on the calendar. After 4 years of additional ¼ days the calendar is ahead by 1 full day. A day is added to the calendar every 4 years to compensate for this additional day that has accumulated. The year that occurs every 4 years with the additional day (February 29) is called a LEAP YEAR.

- A blue moon is the second full moon in a calendar month.

For a blue moon to occur, the first of the full moons must appear at, or near, the beginning of the month so that the second will fall within the same month (the average span between two moons is 29.5 days).

July 2004 will have two full moons: the first on July 2, the second on July 31—that second full moon is called the Blue Moon. Two full moons in one month may occur in any month out of the year except for February, which is shorter than the lunar cycle. The last blue moon occurred on Nov. 30, 2001.

An older definition for the blue moon is recorded in early issues of the Maine Farmer's Almanac. According to this definition, the blue moon is the third full moon in a season that has four full moons.

But will it really be blue? Probably not. The date of a full moon, all by itself, doesn't affect the moon's color. The moon on July 31st will be pearly-gray, as usual.

The COSC uses 5 positions for certification

6:00 o'clock up
3:00 o'clock up
9:00 o'clock up
Dial down
Dial up
- 8° Centigrade ( 46.4° Fahrenheit)
- 23° Centigrade ( 73.4° Fahrenheit)
- 38° Centigrade (100.4° Fahrenheit)
It is often quoted that to pass certification the watch must have a mean daily rate of a minimum of -4 seconds and a maximum of +6 seconds.
It is actually much more complicated than this simplistic guideline.

Larger calibers would produce better results than smaller calibers because the larger parts could be manufactured more precisely than smaller parts.
The COSC Observatory in Geneva had 4 testing categories:

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

U.S. to press China over piracy

Evans, above, says the U.S. wants to

see significant piracy prosecutions.

Monday, January 10, 2005

WASHINGTON (AP) -- U.S. President George W. Bush's administration wants China to crack down on the rampant piracy of U.S. movies, music and computer programs and will not be satisfied until copyright violators get stiff prison sentences, Commerce Secretary Donald Evans has said.

Evans, who on Monday was leaving on his fourth and final trip to China as a member of Bush's Cabinet, said in an Associated Press interview that he wanted to learn first-hand what China was doing to fulfill promises to better enforce its intellectual property laws.

Chinese Vice Premier Wu Yi led a 70-person delegation to Washington last April for economic talks that resulted in a number of pledges by the Chinese on trade, including protections for U.S. copyrights.

The Motion Picture Association estimates that its members lost up to $3.5 billion last year from movie pirates. China is considered the second worst offender behind Russia.

Evans said even though the Chinese government had committed to specific steps to combat piracy, the United States was concerned about the lack of significant criminal prosecutions.

He said the administration wants to see "jail time and tough criminal actions against those responsible for the thefts. ... We haven't seen enough evidence that this is happening yet."

Evans said he would emphasize this point during meetings with Chinese leaders and in a speech Thursday at an intellectual property conference in Beijing.

During Bush's second term, the United States will keep the pressure on China to abide by the market-opening commitments it made upon joining the World Trade Organization, Evans said.

That effort, he said, would continue under Carlos Gutierrez, the president's nominee for commerce secretary. The head of cereal giant Kellogg is awaiting Senate approval to take over for Evans.

Evans, a close friend of Bush, said in November he was leaving the Cabinet to return to Texas.

Gutierrez told lawmakers last week that the administration intended to press China to narrow the trade gap with the United States. That imbalance hit $124 billion in 2003, a record for any U.S. trading partner, and widened in 2004.

Critics of the administration's trade policies contend that Bush has not done enough to protect American workers from unfair trade practices in other nations.

Those practices have contributed greatly to the loss of 2.7 million U.S. manufacturing jobs over the past four years, these critics say.

In the interview, Evans said he was not disappointed by the growth in the overall trade deficit and the deficit with China.

He said he saw it as "an ongoing challenge to make sure that we do all we can to eliminate not only tariff barriers but nontariff barriers with China."

U.S. manufacturers say the best thing the administration could do for the industry would be to persuade China to stop linking its currency directly to the U.S. dollar.

American companies say that as a result of that system, the Chinese yuan is undervalued by as much as 40 percent, giving Beijing a huge competitive advantage.

Evans said currency issues would not come up directly in his conversations with Chinese leaders because Treasury Secretary John Snow was handling that policy matter for the administration.

But Evans said he would raise with the Chinese the additional steps needed, such as selling off state-owned enterprises, so China can be classified by the United States as a market economy.

The Chinese want this designation because it will make it harder for American companies to win claims that Chinese competitors are setting unfairly low prices on goods sold in the U.S. market.

"It is very important to them to be classified as a market economy under our trade laws and they are not there yet," Evans said.

Evans said all of these efforts to boost U.S. export sales to China would continue in Bush's second term.

"I will make it clear that even though we have had a presidential election nothing has changed," he said. "We still want to continue working to integrate China into the global economy."

Source: http://edition.cnn.com/2005/BUSINESS/01/09...e.ap/index.html

The Counterfeit is the accident of the brand

The counterfeit is at the origins of the Swiss watchmaking in the mid-18th century. A proof that a counterfeiter can become a master watchmaker. La Montre des origines au XIXe siècle by Catherine Cardinal

January 03, 2005

By Pierre Maillard

The mindless copy, or fake, or counterfeit object, is a real economic scourge. That goes without saying. But isn’t it also, in a way, the reverse side of the “brand” or what we might call the “counterbrandi”

The French philosopher and science historian, Paul Virilio, theorized on what he calls the “accident.” Each new technology, he says, creates at the same time a new “accident” - its own particular accident. For example, by inventing the automobile, man also invented the automobile accident. By inventing the airplane, he also invented the air disaster. By inventing the Internet, there came the invention of online viruses, or worse, online paedophilia. The examples abound, from trivial to tragic.

When the brand was invented, so was, to a certain degree, counterfeiting. The forgery is only interesting if what it copies is immediately recognizable. Why copy an object that does not have an exclusive identityi No one would be interested in it. People copy only those things that are worth copying. And, an object is worth it if it is a well-known label, a recognizable brand name.

Brands spend treasures of energy patiently constructing their brand image, and treasure chests trying to impose this image on a global scale. Yet, the more powerful the brand becomes, the more it attracts counterfeiters. To be copied is, in a way, the proof of a brand’s success.

What is the most copied brand in the world? Not by chance, it is the largest luxury brand on the planet, Louis Vuitton. What is the most copied watch brand in the world? The King Rolex, of course, and so on, and so on.

In fact, if we made a list of the most copied watches, we would probably obtain more reliable and revealing statistics than those in the brands’ annual reports. Behind this, of course, is human frailty. Between us, let’s admit it, what consumer would want to transform himself into a white knight for the Brandi If the right occasion presents itself, there is a little larceny in all of us. The proof of the pudding can be seen in the recent misadventure of the Italian Foreign Minister, Franco Frattini. On an official visit to Beijing, he spent some time visiting Hong Qiao, also known as the “pearl market,” a famous or infamous “department store” for counterfeit products. The minister could not help himself. Looking at all the Cartiers and Rolexes selling for 20 euros, he gave in to temptation and bought one, a superb fake. As his luck would have it, there were a number of reporters present and they did not miss this photo opportunity.

As usual, when prime minister Silvio Berlusconi was questioned about this during a press conference, standing next to the Chinese prime minister, Wen Jiabao, he simply kicked it into touch by declaring, “It seems logical to me that the minister responsible for speaking about the fight against counterfeiting would have to have tangible proof of its existence…” What a lame excuse! The reality is quite different. The minister Frattini had simply given in to his desire to get a ‘brand name’ watch for 20 euros.

But the real stakes in this game are much more important. By copying, one learns. The Chinese began by copying, but they also are learning, and learning well. This year, three Chinese manufacturers introduced tourbillons, authentic tourbillons. Of course, they are a far cry from the tourbillons coming from Swiss haute horlogerie, but still…

Look at what’s happening in Italy in the domain of the well-made, beautiful Italian shoe. This year, imports of real luxury shoes, Made in China, were greater than the home-grown variety. Behind the counterfeiter hides a future competitor. The counterfeit object can very well be considered to be the accident of the brand, the accident of creativity, and often, it is a fatal accident.

Courtesy: europastar

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

Axcent's Rocker

January 11, 2005

With a successful background in graphic design Daniel Jakobsson from Gothenburg is known for his extraordinary design talent in fashion and product development. Today, he is not only an innovative and devoted watch designer for Axcent of Scandinavia, but also the company’s Brand Manager. Daniel is influenced by everything from car races in soap operas of the 60s and 70s with muscular macho-men and high-healed ladies, to cutting-edge fashion, scifi and the sphere-shaped houses built on the moon.

X1000M-838

Daniel’s creative time collection is booming worldwide, being featured in all the leading international fashion, design and lifestyle magazines.

Rock the Nation Brown in everything from cognac to camel nuances along with blood red are some of the hottest colours the fashion houses presented on the catwalk for this autumn’s fashion.

Axcent is now updating Rocker with new must-have colours in deep cappuccino, camel brown and red. The brown straps are made of the finest suede and the red in italian leather.

Source : Axcent Press Release

http://www.axcent.se

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

Survey: watches key to elegance for both sexes

JANUARY 14, 2005 - New York -- Thirty-five percent of Americans wear fine jewelry every day, and watches remained an important elegant accessory for both sexes, according to the Longines Elegance in America survey released last week.

Survey respondents, age 24 or older with an income of at least $75,000, owned an average of 4.5 watches.

The survey found the most elegant men's accessories were cufflinks, watches and ties, according to respondents. Those polled consider the most elegant women's accessories to be bracelets, necklaces and rings.

Jewelry also plays a major role in the four occasions those surveyed deemed the most elegant times of the year: weddings, gala, fundraisers and award ceremonies. It also accentuates the ensembles those polled found most elegant: tuxedos for men and formal evening gowns for women. Fashion designers Armani, Dior and Versace are believed to create the most elegant clothing.

The survey found that more than 60 percent of Americans think elegance is dying out, but 30 percent consider themselves elegant.

National Jeweler

Casio responds to warning about watches and terrorism

JANUARY 14, 2005 - Dover, N.J. -- Casio Inc. has reached out to U.S. Department of Homeland Security (DHS) officials and offered its services, following an advisory citing the popularity of the company's wristwatches with terrorists.

Early in January, DHS along with the FBI issued an advisory urging the Transportation Security Administration to have airport screeners keep an eye out for watches containing butane lighters and Casio watches with altimeters.

"Recent intelligence suggests al-Qaida has expressed interest in obtaining wristwatches with a hidden butane-lighter function and Casio watches with an altimeter function. Casio watches have been extensively used by al-Qaida and associated organizations as timers for improvised explosive devices. The Casio brand is likely chosen due to its worldwide availability and inexpensive price," the advisory reads.

Casio Legal Affairs Director Robert Shapiro says that while the company has received very little response from retail and consumer customers regarding the advisory, Casio is eager to work with DHS to limit any potential threat and deal with concerns.

"We hope to have a meeting where we can help screeners with identifying the watch and understand how it's used, how it functions. If they feel it's an issue, we'll try to come out with a tool or public service announcement to help minimize any types of problems they may have," Shapiro says. "We see this as an opportunity to help them."

Casio is a member of the Homeland Security Industries Association (HSIA), a nonprofit corporation that seeks to provide a mechanism for government and the private sector to coordinate on a wide range of homeland security issues.

Courtesy: National Jeweler

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

INDUSTRY NEWS – Rado V10K – The World’s Hardest Watch

Jan 21, 2005

The creation of ‘the hardest watch on earth’, has been the mission of the Swiss watch manufacturer Rado since its launch of the world's first scratchproof watch over 40 years ago. The objective was to produce a watch as hard but as elegant as a genuine diamond – the hardest known material. This has been fulfilled by the Rado V10K, the world's first watch made of high-tech diamond.

The creation of a watch with the hardness degree of 10,000 Vickers represents a technological quantum leap. With the new V10K, Rado has now pushed forward the absolute limits of ‘scratchproofness’. The lateral elements of the rectangular case and the pure, elegant connecting pieces between sapphire crystal and caoutchouc (rubber) strap are protected against scratching with the diamond hardness of 10,000 Vickers.

Case back and strap clasp are in skin-friendly titanium. As with the Rado 'eSenza', the crown has also been omitted from the V10K, for reasons of design aesthetics. The time can be easily adjusted on the case back by means of the magnetic contact element that is integrated into the strap.

Given a clear, striking form by Rado designers and protected by several patents as a worldwide innovation, the world's hardest watch is available in one size and with variously colored caoutchouc (rubber) straps.

The abbreviation 'V10K' stands for Vickers 10,000. Vickers is a measure of hardness that is used particularly in material technology. 10,000 Vickers is the ultimate value that, so far, only diamonds attain, as only diamonds can scratch all other materials. This top value, also reached by the upper surface of the V10K, means that diamond is the only material that can scratch the upper surface of the V10K.

Courtesy timezone

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

BASELWORLD 2005 on Track for another outstanding Success

January 26, 2005

Following the resounding success of BASELWORLD 2004 – the world’s leading watch and jewellery show – the Show is introducing a number of new innovative initiatives for the 2005 Show (31 March to 7 April 2005). Preparations are well underway. The current number of confirmed registrations and the positive feedback from the 2004 exhibitor and visitor survey, indicate that BASELWORLD 2005 will yet again prove to be the premier event in the luxury goods calendar.

Building on this success and as part of the Show management’s commitment to optimise the commercial scope of the Watch and Jewellery Show, the Hall of Elements has been substantially upgraded for BASELWORLD 2005. Following the on-going extensive reconstruction programme, this Hall which is dedicated to the gemstones and pearls sector, has received a total redesign. This initiative will enable exhibitors to present their products, precious stones and pearls in a luxurious environment allowing for the first time sufficient space for multi-storey stands. Sylvie Ritter, the Show Director, comments “This Hall will now provide exhibitors from the gemstones, pearls and diamonds sectors with a distinctive platform and infrastructure which is compatible with the rest of the Show”.

As part of ensuring that the BASELWORLD infrastructure is as streamlined and efficient as possible for exhibitors and visitors alike, the Show management continues to be committed to strengthening the scope and quality of the visitors service. As part of this, a new hotel reservation service has been introduced this year. This is being run in conjunction with a major international partner – BTI Event Solutions - which specialises in organising premium business travel. For the first time, visitors will be able to make their reservations directly on-line at www.baselworld.com/hotel, thus ensuring a quick and effortless process. Furthermore, to facilitate easy access to the Show itself, some door-to-door transportation with shuttle buses to and from the event will be available during the day.

Another new innovation designed to improve the visitors’ service and assist the growing number of international visitors, is the introduction of eleven languages to the BASELWORLD website. This is a first within the watch and jewellery show sector and will provide a choice of languages ranging from Portuguese, Arabic and Chinese to Hebrew, Japanese and Russian.

Sylvie Ritter concludes “The new online-services are meeting the extensive needs of our visitors and exhibitors. All of these exciting new initiatives and innovations are designed to strengthen the international status of the Show as the premier event and business platform for the industry. The Show attracted a record number of 89,350 visitors in 2004 and we are confident that BASELWORLD 2005 will be again a great success for exhibitors and visitors alike.

The next date for the watch and jewellery sector is the BASELWORLD 2005, from 31 March to 7 April 2005, the Show with the greatest impact on the industry.

Source: Baselworld – The Watch and Jewellery Show

TwoTone · February 3, 2007

Rolex - The "Submarine"

by Eric Engh

Oldwatch.com

The year 1922 is not one of those years I recall as being very important in the scheme of life. I believe 1922 took place, and it holds the string of years together in the history book, but I don’t recall having to worry about 1922 on any history exam in school. Remarkably, even though prohibition was in full swing, many important events and inventions that have shaped our present life took place in 1922. The Lincoln Memorial was dedicated and “Readers Digest” was first published. The first woman was appointed to the US Senate and the USSR was formed. Al Jolson was singing “Toot Toot Tootsie Goo’bye.” Insulin was successfully used in the treatment of diabetes, and the Eskimo Pie was patented. In the watch world John Harwood invented the self winding wristwatch, later patented in 1924, and an aggressive Swiss company named Rolex trademarked the “Submarine”, a water resistant wristwatch.

Moisture! Probably the biggest enemy of the wristwatch is moisture. A wristwatch without a proper seal, worn on a hot and humid day, will soon have the crystal fog up. Imagine what is happening to the movement! Hans Wilsdorf, cofounder of Rolex knew if the company was going to increase its sales in the humid tropical climates, it was going to have to find a way of making a watch that was waterproof. The evolutionary process that led to the “Oyster” first started with one of the oddest ideas, in retrospect, to deal with the moisture problem. Rolex simply used a case that fit in a case. What is amazing is the watch called the “Submarine” was a success! It did work as it was intended, but it was a very difficult watch to operate. The outer half of the case is one piece, fitted with a hinge pin. The inner case, that houses the watch, is hinged to the outer case, has a snap cover for the movement and a snap bezel over the dial. The outer case also has a threaded screw on bezel to protect the watch. The “minor” problem with this design was the outer bezel had to be removed each day to wind the watch or to reset the time. This was not only function over form, it was function over utility. It did the job it was asked to do, but it was just not owner friendly. Even with this huge drawback, the need for a water resistant wristwatch was so important in the tropical climates, the watch was still a good seller for Rolex.

It was quite obvious that although the “Submarine” was successful, the short comings of the long term use of the watch demanded a more practical solution to the moisture problem. The “Submarine” was just one large step in the evolutionary path that led Rolex to the production of the “Oyster” by 1926.

The watch pictured, was made in the twenties. The inner and outer cases are made of sterling silver with wire lugs and has a Swiss sterling silver hallmark stamped in it. It is signed “Rolex 7 World’s Records, Gold Medal, Geneva Suisse.” The case houses a 16 jewel movement that is adjusted to 6 positions and signed “For All Climates.” The dial is double sunk porcelain with a sub seconds dial at the 6 o’clock position.

Today, most of the watch collecting world knows this watch as the “Tropical” but Rolex has no records calling this watch anything but the “Submarine.” Very few of the Submarines have survived in good condition because of the constant opening and closing of the case during normal use. Two major weaknesses are quite apparent in the survivors. The hinge holding the inner case is delicate with most suffering from metal fatigue, and most of the outer bezels have significant wear to the coin edge, and the threads are worn out. Although most of the existing examples suffer from these problems, this important step in fighting the elements makes the “Submarine” or “Tropical” wristwatch an important addition to any serious Rolex collection.

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TwoTone

TwoTone

TwoTone

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