6538 big crown build

[weldergeoff]

Hi everyone 

Just a quick write up about a build I just finished, always liked the look of the big crown Submariner and with a gen example being totally out of my budget decided to build one instead. Here’s a list of parts used. 
Raffles 6538 case ( aged in the usual box of bolts etc way )

Raffles 4 line gilt dial ( aged with water colour paint and tamiya weathering powders )

Raffles golden submariner hands ( aged again with water colour paint and weathering powders )

Raffles bezel insert ( aged with bleach and scuffs )

Sellita SW200 no date movement ( no ghost setting for a date change )

Bond strap

 

I still need to dull the hands a bit more as they’re just a bit too shiny but apart from that I’m happy with the result. I may also try it with an aged rivet bracelet to see which I prefer. 

Can anyone help with where to get an aged lime pearl from ?

[freddy333]

if you are looking for an honest recommendation, I would begin by tossing the bezel insert & starting over with a new 1.

 

The 'wear' is much too inconsistent in placement (natural wear generally affects the entire part & looks even) & TOO consistent in direction. It looks more sandpaper & bleach than patina. Even a new insert would improve the overall presentation.

Also, like many inexperienced modders, your lume 'patina' looks too manufactured. Like the insert, the patina should be more subtle & consistent. The lighter part of the lume looks better than the darker parts. If the lume was originally that lighter color, I think I would have left it alone & just given the dial a thin coat of matte shellac to give it a bit of texture ('patina') & to tone down the newness.

I have found that a bit of edge burnishing (to remove the sharp edges of a new case) with a Dremel & some green rouge adds to that 'years of polishing' look that gives a vintage watch that vintage look.

Taking into account that they are different Sub models, compare your dial to the lume & texture of 1 of my gen Sub dials --

[freddy333]

There should be a few threads detailing my Bond Sub build from 2008-9 (including macros of the finished dial/handset before casing & the process I used to add 'patina'), but I cannot seem to find them. However, I found these pics in my archives from that build that may help as a guide --

 

[weldergeoff]

Having taken onboard advice this watch has now gone back to the drawing board and at the moment is work in progress. 

[Ronin]

@freddy333is your dial real/relief GILT, or Printed GILT?  Hard to tell from the photos...

 

Also, out of curiosity.  Did you self-service your 1030?  If YES, how does servicing that compare to a ETA 28xx?  (Harder/Easier) and what kind of accuracy are you getting out that vintage movement?

 

Thanks

[freddy333]

13 hours ago, Ronin said:

Did you self-service your 1030?  If YES, how does servicing that compare to a ETA 28xx?  (Harder/Easier) and what kind of accuracy are you getting out that vintage movement?

Yes. Most of my watches have Rolex movements, so I am generally more familiar with them. However, these days, the cost & difficulty in sourcing Rolex replacement parts make Rolex movements especially challenging to work on. With the exception of the 775xs, once you acquire the skills & tools, I would say that servicing ETAs are no different than servicing Rolexes. They all work essentially the same way. It is more a matter of which movements you spend more time working on, so the process becomes more instinctive.

Parts availability aside, if you have successfully overhauled ETAs, you should be able to do the same with a basic Rolex. But before attempting a Rolex, I would seriously consider whether you have the time, patience & funds for Rolex parts. If you lose or break a rotor spring or cap jewel or whatever, it will likely take alot of time, effort & money to find a suitable replacement.