Asians Vs Swiss Eta

[Guest mait]

Hi

When buying a watch from dealers here . Do you usually get the "swiss" versions or asian versions ?

For example buying a "swiss" eta 2836 TT sub and a asian 21 jewels sub . Is the watch casing , gold plating , glass etc the same ? Only the movements differ ? What are the significant difference in the appearance of the 2 ?

The "swiss" version do cost a lot more then its asian counterpart .

Anyone with both swiss n asian versions of the same watch ? Pls enlighten me

Thanks

[noorudeenshakur]

Hi

When buying a watch from dealers here . Do you usually get the "swiss" versions or asian versions ?

For example buying a "swiss" eta 2836 TT sub and a asian 21 jewels sub . Is the watch casing , gold plating , glass etc the same ? Only the movements differ ? What are the significant difference in the appearance of the 2 ?

The "swiss" version do cost a lot more then its asian counterpart .

Anyone with both swiss n asian versions of the same watch ? Pls enlighten me

Thanks

GO ETA unless you only plan on keeping the watch for a short time. ETA can last a lifetime japan movements are good they can last 5 years, and are far less expensive, the rep quality depends on who you are buying it from what their asian vs eta is sometimes quality is same sometimes not. ETA is always found in top quality reps though

Edited April 6, 2006 by noorudeenshakur

[Watchmeister]

You need to be specific on the watch model, who is offering it and what version. This is especially true with Rolexes where there are usually many versions. In general, people have better luck with ETA's but there are Myota movements in watches that are every bit as reliable and well put together as the ETA's. There is also variation within ETA and Asian movements themselves. That is what makes this fun. Decide what you are looking for. Search a little. If you don't find the info on the particular model you are looking for post a specific question.

[Steve G]

I usually try and go for ETA, but sometimes certain models only come in Asian. I have an Explorer II that's ETA, don't believe asian is offered, and a Sub in Asian. The Asian works perfectly and power reserve lasts pretty long, not quite as long as ETA though. So Far I have had good luck with the asian movements I do have.

[Watchmeister]

Steve is right that in general ETA movement based watches will be of better quality but you have to bear in mind there is quite a bit of variation. For instance the Asian 7750 Chrono movement comes in an older version which has proven to be very unstable and a newer one that is significantly better. Different models will have the different versions. Similarly, you can get an ETA based GMT watch with either the dedicated 2893 ETA movement with Soprad module which is designed specifically for GMT applications or you can buy, for substantially less, a modified 2836 movement. And different folks have different opinions as to what they like better. In that case there is a $200-300 difference based on which ETA movement you choose. The 2836 is a $50??? movement at most. The 2893 is significantly more expensive. So as you move onto buy reps utilize the resources that are here. A lot of folks here have invested a lot of time to provide you with a wealth of information. That is what makes this place fun. And the best part is that if you are inclined you will make some good friends here along the way.

[r11co]

I don't subscribe to this 'ETA is better than Asian' thing. It is far too much of a generalisation, and how many people in here can honestly say that they have kept an 'ETA rep' long enough to categorically say that it will outlast a non-ETA?

I've heard of 'genuine' ETA movement reps being DOA. I've seen pictures of 'ETA' movement that have had assembly problems. Likewise I have heard of Asia movement reps running +/- 5 seconds accurate per day.

It comes down to dealer confidence and quality control. I even saw one dealer (no names, no drill) casually failing to mention his 'Unitas' movements were the Chinese replicas, until another dealer let the cat out the bag.

Also, for how long were we all convinced the 'Lemania' hand wind chrono movements in the reps were the real Swiss deal until it came out that they were cheap but good Venus copies?!

The Zigmeister once said over on the old RWG that certain Miyota movements are every bit as solid as their ETA counterparts, but just like you will never convince some people that Rolex aren't the last word in quality watches, so will you struggle to convince people that a watch signed as 'ETA' isn't a guarenteed sign of quality.

Edited April 6, 2006 by r11co

[Hok]

I don't subscribe to this 'ETA is better than Asian' thing. It is far too much of a generalisation, and how many people in here can honestly say that they have kept an 'ETA rep' long enough to categorically say that it will outlast a non-ETA?

...

The Zigmeister once said over on the old RWG that certain Miyota movements are every bit as solid as their ETA counterparts, but just like you will never convince some people that Rolex aren't the last word in quality watches, so will you struggle to convince people that a watch signed as 'ETA' isn't a guarenteed sign of quality.

if you can get a ETA version for the price of an ETA-Rep movement, which one would you take? (whitout inspecting the movement itself).

...

as for the miyotas and seikos, I too think that they're rock solid and don't have to hide behind ETAs. and if you consider their price, they kick swiss ass

Edited April 6, 2006 by Hok

[RWG Technical]

I handle hundreds of watches a year, in the last week alone, I have gotten 18 different models in for service and upgrades.

As with anyone who works on watches, I probably get to see more watches than most people do, all types and models, all versions, and all price ranges. And luckily I get to tear them apart and have a close look at them...a really close look...

Have I ever noted any noticeable difference between a ETA and an Asian powered watch? Apart from the movement itself?

In some cases - Yes, there is a difference, in some cases - No, I couldn't see any difference.

I have seen Asian powered ones, that were "cheap" looking and an inferior quality, I have seen Asian powered ones that were basically identical to ETA powered ones...except for the movement of course.

From what I could gather, in my non-scientific observations, you get what you pay for... whereas a $200 model and a $100 model of the same watch is a double price difference, the quality of the $200 one can be 10 times better than the $100 one...case, dial, hands, crown, etc.... That holds true for most models I have seen, there are exceptions here and there, but overall, that is my impression (and only mine, based on my observations).

Asian does not mean "cheap quality" in all cases, there are options available if the movement fails, such as replacing it with a genuine Miyota (in the case of automatic models), if the case/dial/hands/bracelet are all of good quality. On models with complications, or power reserve indicators, or running seconds at 6 etc, there is no replacement movement available, so if it breaks, your out of luck... it's a paperweight...

The other thing to consider is this, ETA replacement parts are available and abundant everywhere, Asian parts (even Miyota) are not available at all..if it breaks, your options are to install a new movement...

I think best value for the money is to get the best you can afford from someone who is trusted and well respected here.

I would not stay away from Asian for the sole fact it's "Asian", but I would not go cheap and expect to pay minimum dollar and get the same quality as a identical watch for twice the price (identical type, obviously quality differences...).

Consider also the fact that most of the ETA powered watches contain surplus movements, so even if it's ETA, it could be old and worn out when you get it. I have had brand new ETA powered watches delivered to my door, that the movement had to be replaced in them right away...... Some contain new ETA movements, but some contain used old ones... Asian is always new, brand new... confusing isn't it????

These watches are novelty items, and clones of the genuine ones, there are some excellent buys out there, but you have to choose who and how much your willing to spend, if your expecting an $80 watch to be as good quality as a $250 one, your setting yourself up for a letdown...

Choose a dependable well trusted seller from here, and get the best you can afford.

RG

[Steve G]

I have a quick question for The Zigmeister which sort of relates to this topic. I am in the market for a Breitling Navitimer which has the newest 7750 movement. From what I've read in your teardown, it seems more reliable than previous version, particuliary if seconds are at 9. Anyway what is your feeling on sending this for service immediatley on receipt, vs. waiting and seeing how long it lasts. This of course factors into the overall cost of having this watch. $300 for the rep then another $200 for servicing. This is the reason I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet.

Your advice is appreciated.

Thanks

[Guest mait]

I apologise for the not so clear questions . What i wanted to know is , are asian n swiss subs using the same body ie bezel,bracelet,lume,markers etc only diff is the movement ?

I have not doubts abt the ETA movements .. think they are gem

[Pugwash]

I apologise for the not so clear questions . What i wanted to know is , are asian n swiss subs using the same body ie bezel,bracelet,lume,markers etc only diff is the movement ?

Sometimes.

When you buy a Sub from one dealer with an ETA, it may have a different case to another Sub with the same movement from a different dealer.

[Guest mait]

Also if i may add

I just recieved my TT sub from Andrew ( hes a swell guy i must say ) I m thinking of using the WD40 on the bracelets but i m afraid it might be a little to strong for the 3plated gold . If this liquid can loosen rusty screws, nuts, bolts ... just wandering if it'll do any harm to the 3plated gold ?

Thanks in advance

[Steve G]

In my experience the Subs are the same, they were all purchased through Andrew. My brother has an LV ETA, I have a black sub, they appear identical as far as quality of bracelet, sapphire cyrstal etc. My brother also has a yachtmaster, which he paid ETA but mistakingly was sent asian, also good quality no noticible differences. Andrew made up for the mistake of course.

[RWG Technical]

I have a quick question for Ziggy which sort of relates to this topic. I am in the market for a Breitling Navitimer which has the newest 7750 movement. From what I've read in your teardown, it seems more reliable than previous version, particuliary if seconds are at 9. Anyway what is your feeling on sending this for service immediatley on receipt, vs. waiting and seeing how long it lasts. This of course factors into the overall cost of having this watch. $300 for the rep then another $200 for servicing. This is the reason I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet.

Your advice is appreciated.

Thanks

Well tough question, given that I fix and service watches...it's like asking your car mechanic if your car needs work...

All I can offer is my observations, based on what I see when I open these and inspect and service them. I have serviced 6 or more of the new Asian 7750's, not one was oiled correctly, especially the balance cap jewels...but that is typical for most movements, except the ETA 7753's... I have 6 of these in house right now, waiting for service, and I suspect that I will find similar issues on these, as I have on the past ones...dry and little oil...

Everyone who knows me (on the forum or personally) knows I tell it as I see it, good and/or bad (check my subforum for the reviews).

Consider this comparison, a 7750 has many gears and pivots that are all spinning and turning as it runs, these are designed to run on a film of oil suspended and held in place in the jewels. No oil, means metal pivot on sapphire jewel... the longer it runs with no oil, the more wear it will have, very small wear, but the pivots are wearing out. How long before this wear gets to the point that the watch stops running and the parts have to be replaced? I couldn't tell you...

A watch - like your car - needs to be serviced at some point, all watches, even the $100K ones... If I sold you a new car, but only put a bit of oil at certain places in the engine, would you drive it until it stopped working, or get an oil and filter change done right away? I keep my car's till they die an old death (last one was 17 years and had 530K on the odometer), I plan on keeping my watches for a long time, I change my oil regularly, and I service every watch as soon as I get it.

It's cheaper to service a watch, than to service - and - replace parts, and keep in mind, you can't buy parts for this model, some of the ETA ones will fit, many won't... I have a Daytona here now, damaged balance wheel, can't fix it, no parts (dropped or banged hard, bent pivots...).

If you own a mechanical watch, it will need to be serviced, sooner or later, it's your call...I can't say much more than giving you the facts, and let you make an informed decision.

RG

EDIT:

Thought I would add this trivia info:

This model beats 28,800 times per hour, that is 8 swings of the balance wheel back and forth every second.

In a day, the balance will swing 691,000 times back and forth...

In one month, the balance will swing a mind boggling 21,427,200 times, that is 21 million ticks and tocks per month...

Edited April 6, 2006 by ziggyzumba

[Steve G]

Thanks The Zigmeister very good and informed info. This will certainly factor into my decision. We've spoken in the past regarding my Explorer II problem (missing spring), Andrew sent replacement new one works perfectly...for now.

thanks again