Nodate question....

[predfan2001]

I am a long time Rolex fan. I have had 1 Sub, 2 DJs, and a 50s Oy. Perp. But it's been about 10 years since I have owned a genuine. Back then $1200-$1500 would get you a nice pre-owned Sub or even a 2 Tone DJ. Now, the prices are just out of my reach (plus having that much money on my wrist kind of freaks me out-I whacked one against a block wall once ) so I desided to get a replica this time. Rather than a 50th anv. or a Red Sub. (that screams "replica" to me), I desided to check into a nodate Sub. I found a "Vintage Nodate" at Brand9avenue that has a stainless band (not the military style). What is your opinion of this watch vs. a nodate sub from Wo-mart. Or any other suggestions on a nodate Sub. I value your input and opinions.

Predfan2001

[predfan2001]

Me again. This rep. stuff is all new to me, but it seems like a good idea. Like I said in the previous post, I smacked my old genuine Sub hard against a concrete wall, it didn't take it so good. It was an older model (5513 I think) with the plexi crystal. I felt lucky that my "Rolex guy" gave me $800 trade in towards a ss datejust. The crystal, bezel and hands were all ruined. It was pretty screwed up, wish I had pics. I have been wearing a Sandoz with an ETA movement for the past 5 years with NO problems. So I thought that an ETA Rolex sub. would be just fine for me. Here's the one that really reminds me of the one I used to have.

http://brand9avenue.com/catalog/product_in...dc5e4c0d52bb5bc

I really want your input. What is the best nodate Sub (vintage or not) out there?

[gillorin]

the 55xx sub's are some of the best looking Rolex ever made, IMO.

I definitely dig the plexi crystal and how clean they look without the date and cyclops.

The main difference between the 5512 and the 5513 is that the 5512 was a COSC Chronometer while the 5513 was not. Different calibers were also used. I actually didn't know they had some good 5512's out there, probably the only Submariner I would buy today. I am done with the modern ones, and I am still waiting for a killer 1675

The 14060's were better a few years ago, oddly enough. Now they all seem to have maxi dials, and some even have SEL's. I do like them, but they just don't have the charm the vintage models do. I would definitely go that way, especially if you had one prior. Just remember to put it in a jar of pennies and shake it in your free time for a few days to get it looking used

Good luck, and if you do end up buying that 5512 please post phots, I would like to see it.

Take care

[predfan2001]

Ok, this may sound dumb but when I had my genuine Sub nodate, I heard that the case of a nodate (and GMT) was thinner than a sub date model. Are the nodate reps thinner as well or just in a date model case? If the nodates are crap, I'll just get a noomariner?? or a "so called perfect" even though I don't like the date. Come on guys..I'm ready to order..help!!

[gillorin]

The first Sub's out were very slender, before the 6536.

The 1680 and the 5512/13 had the same midcase I believe, but I'm not positive. I don't think they are bad by any means, I would mod the CG's a little, yank out the pearl, give it the penny treatment above and have fun wearing a watch with some great character

[By-Tor]

If I had to choose one rep Sub I'd get the Noobmariner with ETA movement. Some people swear by the "TW best" model but I think the too deep rehaut looks just as "wrong" as the low rehaut on the Nooby. The only thing that's really a lot better on the TW model is the crystal height.

Nooby has very good bracelet, dial and case. I'd just change a genuine crown and pearl and be happy with it.

PS: You're obviously a hockey fan. I also follow NHL from Europe. Predators is very good candidate for the cup this year.

Some pics I've taken of the Noobmariner (it has a replacement pearl, except in the first pic):

[dieselpower]

Whatever you buy, check out the bezel. That one you linked at Brand9 says uni-directional. It should be bi-directional.

[predfan2001]

As Borat would say "Nice". I can't get over how great these reps have become. Especailly some of the cheaper ones. I remember seeing el-cheapo fakes that would make you guys cry you'd laugh so hard. Stick on crown, too small, junk movement, rolled band....yuck. One thing I think is pretty clear. If you think you are buying a swiss ETA movement, it may or may not be. I seem to think most are ETA knock-offs made in China.

If I get into this stuff like I do everything else, I'd like to age an old Sub rep. Take off the cg and age the dial, bezel and hands more. Over the years I've "frankenwatched" quite a few manual watchs that I bought at the flea market. My current hobby is restoring "Smith-Miller" brand toy trucks, but unfortunately I know have about 1 of everyone ever made. Time for a new hobby, this could be it.

[predfan2001]

Oh yeah, I've been checking websites like Wo-mart and TTime. How do I spot a Noob? Is that what they call it?

[thewightstuff]

just for fun,

heres my two gens, both vintage no dates from mid 60s.

5512 above is before i put the original twinlock back on for the eagle eyed amongst you. the modern triplock is a much better design but i just love the look/feel of the original version. since theres no way im going near water with this watch its twinlock all the way

with regards to reps, my own feeling is that the time and investment required to make a good vintage rep is significant to say the least.

theres issues across the board with the range of vintage reps beyond that of the simple fact they they always look too new.

the inserts are way off, the dials are always very poor, hands are too small particularly the hour hand mercedes and the crystal is always iffy. beyond that theres the issues with the crown/tubes and bezel feel as with the modern ones alongside the other standard issues of crown guards, lug holes and bracelets.

vintage sports models have seen a huge rise in value recently. this had made parts availability scarce and expensive and thus the impact on modding up a rep vintage is serious. a decent dial is going to be around $500, a bezel insert around $150 if you can get one (and are happy enough to take a lume one, forget it if you want a tritium version), a superdome is now around $150 and upwards. vintage bracelets are now easily over $500 if you want a 93150 and through the roof if you want a 9315 or a rivet version. endlinks are now more than they are from rolex also.

when you take all this in the outlay just for parts to make a decent stab at a passable vintage rep is considerable once you manage to source the parts themselves.

you will still need to adjust them to fit, work on the case etc and look into fitting a slow beat eta to compliment.

the modern nodates, while still with faults are IMHO a much easier prospect to get something good out of quite readily. gen parts are much more easily available and the stock models are much less instantly identifiable from a 100 yards than the vintage versions as being reps giving you a better base on which to build.

that being said, my love lies firmly at the vintage door and if the plexis do it for you, then theres not a lot left but to get your sleeves rolled up and get cracking.

Edited March 26, 2007 by thewightstuff