davethecat Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 I was trying to fix my bezel and I put some scratche on the lugs of my vintage DRSD. If you know the vintages, the brush on the case is a little deeper than the brush finish on a bracelet. I've used a scotch brite pad, but that brushes too fine. I tried a copper brush on a test watch, but that scratches too deep and not very uniform. Anyone have a good method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avitt Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 I was trying to fix my bezel and I put some scratche on the lugs of my vintage DRSD. If you know the vintages, the brush on the case is a little deeper than the brush finish on a bracelet. I've used a scotch brite pad, but that brushes too fine. I tried a copper brush on a test watch, but that scratches too deep and not very uniform. Anyone have a good method? I use a medium grit 3M sanding sponge. Tape off the areas that you don't want brushed. Use repeated, light strokes, in one direction only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjedwardz Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 I've used the flexible Garryflex blocks on my SMP to great effect. You can get them in the UK here I'm sure they are available where you are as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbj69 Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 i recommend if u dont ahve the correct abrasive wheel like rolex uses , which i use now but used to i used to achieve just about the same finish as this expensive wheel just more hard work thats all lol i used automotive wet/dry sand paper it is greyish black in color , i used 600 grit and 1000grit , i cut them in strips so i could push in one direction easier with my ugly large thumbtool and it would give u a great finish but remember stay in one uniform direction about a dozen times till u get the brushed lines u want , i recommend a more satin than brush finish on the drsd so that is where the 1000 grit comes into play do the same over top of the 600 grit to achieve that , hope this helps u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Look for Bufflex satinizing wheels.. http://www.clockspares.net/detail.asp?id=8841 I use these and get a perfect finish.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pammo13 Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Joe, What make wheel do you use ? Med or fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pammo13 Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 HERE IS SOME PHOTOS ON LUG RE-FINISHING Jocke, does not fool with reps but he is very good with watches and known for his work. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg...&rid=0#msg_1029 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 I use the sanding block sponge method and it works great...cheap and you can control the amount of brushed you get... I only brush in one direction, not both. RG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopypants Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 haha! classic marketing technique there Joe! i recommend if u dont ahve the correct abrasive wheel like rolex uses , which i use now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 I just leave my scratches as they are. Every day use tends to result in knocks, dings, scratches, etc. Gives it character After all, these are supposed to be 30+ year old tool watches with colorful histories Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avitt Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 (edited) I just leave my scratches as they are. Every day use tends to result in knocks, dings, scratches, etc. Gives it character After all, these are supposed to be 30+ year old tool watches with colorful histories I agree with you, Ubi. However, there is a time and place for refinishing. For example, I recently bought an older MBW DRSD rep., and I decided that I wanted to change many things. One of the things that bothered me was the fact that the lugs where not smoothly curved...Instead, the CNC machine had left may small facets along the radius. After reshaping these (and thinning the lugs, and rounding the edges, and milling the inside and outside of the crown guards, and polishing the back, and drilling the lug holes, and...) I just hit them with the sanding block...Voila! A better fake 30+ year old tool watch...Now I'll start accumulating my own dings and scratches. Edited April 14, 2006 by avitt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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