The Mentalist Posted October 10, 2007 Report Posted October 10, 2007 (edited) I've just ordered a leather band for my Daytona and it occurred to me: how the hell do I resize the thing? I hope that it is a case of trimming the ends that connect to the deployant clasp but if the clasp is the same as in the bracelet version, I can't see how that can be done. Any tips or pics for me? (I did a search but nothing came up so please don't flame me for being ignorant and/or lazy). Edited October 10, 2007 by The Mentalist
freddy333 Posted October 10, 2007 Report Posted October 10, 2007 They usually have sizing holes (like a standard strap) in the material through which you slip the tong. The problem I often have is trying to remember how to fold the clasp & where to slide the strap through? But, like me, you will figure it out when you see the strap. It takes longer to explain than to do.
The Mentalist Posted October 10, 2007 Author Report Posted October 10, 2007 Thanks, that's reassuring. I looked at picture of a gen leather Daytona strap and didn't see any holes. Is the replica Daytona leather deployant strap accurate?
freddy333 Posted October 10, 2007 Report Posted October 10, 2007 I do not know. I only have Audemars and Patek deployments.
dluddy Posted October 10, 2007 Report Posted October 10, 2007 On the one I had, you use the springbar holes in the Rolex clasp to fine tune the fit. Mine was a single fold over deployant with the flip lock clasp.
TeeJay Posted October 10, 2007 Report Posted October 10, 2007 As previously mentioned, you just use the micro-adjust holes on the clasp as you would on a Submariner clasp. Something worth noting, is when adjusting the strap, this can make the back of the clasp 'stand up' from the strap (which if the strap is on the last hole, it can't do) this can lead to the back of the clasp standing up and catching on clothes etc. To counter this, force-fitting a second springbar in the end holes will hold the back of the clasp flat to the strap, as I did here:
Guest Carl Posted October 10, 2007 Report Posted October 10, 2007 As previously mentioned, you just use the micro-adjust holes on the clasp as you would on a Submariner clasp. Something worth noting, is when adjusting the strap, this can make the back of the clasp 'stand up' from the strap (which if the strap is on the last hole, it can't do) this can lead to the back of the clasp standing up and catching on clothes etc. To counter this, force-fitting a second springbar in the end holes will hold the back of the clasp flat to the strap, as I did here: TeeJay is correct. And here is how it looks from the other side:
The Mentalist Posted October 11, 2007 Author Report Posted October 11, 2007 You guys rock! Thanks, you've answered my question.
TeeJay Posted October 11, 2007 Report Posted October 11, 2007 You guys rock! Thanks, you've answered my question. No problem, glad to be of help. When it comes to force-fitting the second spring bar, you might need to use something like a pair of needlenose pliars to get the necessary force and pressure to get the second end of the bar into place, as the strap will be rather 'resistant' to the idea Only takes a moment to do though, and then it's perfect, no lifting clasp to catch on your clothes or other things
TeeJay Posted October 11, 2007 Report Posted October 11, 2007 @TeeJay, that is a spectacular idea. Thanks! It was one of those 'moment of clarity ideas' that suddenly came to me a while back (as I had a spare spring bar), and it just happened to work
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