New 7760 DW 6263

[llsteve80]

I just got my package from DW today, a 7760 (actually 7750 with rotor removed), and it looks pretty good. Also received the v72 kit for the same watch. I took a few hasty pics, as I am pressed for time since I do need to go to work soon, but here goes. I intend on doing a full review with better pics when time permits.

The clasp on the watch was on backwards, but no big deal, since I had to remove links anyway to size it. That was more amusing than anything. The watch came in a plastic bag marked rolex, and even came with a hang tag, which I thought was an interesting touch. Comparing this to the V72 dial, the subdials are a little more spread out, about .75mm closer to the white border. The white also appears brighter, as the v72 dial seems more yellowish, but it could be the crystal making it appear this way. As far as I can tell for now, the outside of the cases appear to be identical, and this 7760 version obviously has the asymmetrically placed pushers.

The only thing wrong, it seems, is that the entire pushers unscrewed when I tried them out. I'm going to have to fix that, also the bottom pusher doesn't press in, and I don't want to force it. I think that perhaps the stem for that pusher is too short.

Now, as I have never really bothered about chronos, I have no idea what these buttons are supposed to do. There's 2 extra buttons on the watch besides the crown, and neither one lights up the watch so..... Apparently, the top pusher stops the main seconds hand while the seconds at 9 keeps running. Am I supposed to leave it moving?

Since I can't press the bottom button yet, What is that one supposed to do anyway? I see the running seconds working, but what are the other 2 sub dials supposed to do and what are they used for? A noob question for sure, but I couldn't find a dummy guide to chronos anywhere, and I just figured that I would worry about it when I finally got one.

Anyway, here's the pics, enjoy:

Father and son:

side view with pushers:

Dead on:

The movement:

[freddy333]

The large, centrally-located second hand is part of the chrono and should only start moving when the top (start/stop) pusher is pressed. Press the (top) pusher to stop the chrono second hand. Once the chrono is stopped, the bottom pusher resets all 3 chrono hands (the large centrally-located seconds hand & the minute & hour totalizer subdials at 3 & 6, respectively).

Between the 2 dials, I think the 7750 is the more accurate, color wise. The subdial placement is obviously more accurate on the V72 dial, but, overall, I think the 7750 dial is the better of the 2.

The loose pusher is a known problem with some of these cases. I had to replace the pushers in 1 of my DW cases with Ofrei's pushers, which are slightly larger (the portion of the pusher body that screws into the case) and better built. The stuck pusher could be due to the pusher being misaligned or the chrono gears being out of alignment. It could also be due to the fact that the chrono is in operation. Press the top pusher and be sure the center chrono seconds hand has stopped, then press the bottom pusher, which should reset all of the chrono hands back to their null (12 o'clock) position.

_________

UPDATE -- I just noticed that the "A"s in DAYTONA on the 7750 dial are wrong (too pointy), which is a bit odd since the factory got them correct on my 7750's 6263 dial

[llsteve80]

Freddy, I just looked at it again, and it seems my hour totalizer hand is also wandering just like on yours when you first converted it. I stopped the chrono, but the bottom pusher still doesn't move. It feels like it's the pusher, but I can't even explain how it feels that way. I'll have to check it out tomorrow or Friday. I planned on buying the ofrei pushers and a Gen crown anyway, so this is no biggie for me.

Oh yes, and isn't the arrow on the seconds hand supposed to be black, or is that maybe the 6265?

[freddy333]

Freddy, I just looked at it again, and it seems my hour totalizer hand is also wandering just like on yours when you first converted it. I stopped the chrono, but the bottom pusher still doesn't move. It feels like it's the pusher, but I can't even explain how it feels that way. I'll have to check it out tomorrow or Friday. I planned on buying the ofrei pushers and a Gen crown anyway, so this is no biggie for me.

Oh yes, and isn't the arrow on the seconds hand supposed to be black, or is that maybe the 6265?

The caseback is probably coming into contact with either the pusher assembly or the arm that controls the lower pusher. To verify, remove the movement from the case and be sure the chrono is OFF. The hour subdial hand should then be fine. If it is, then reinstall the movement into the case without the caseback & see how it is then. If it stays put, then the problem is the caseback coming into contact with the sides of the movement and either you installed the caseback too tightly (if you are using a caseback press/wrench, just make it snug, do not tighten it with the tool) or you will need to file or dremel the caseback a bit at the point of contact. Be careful not to damage the caseback threads, or you will have trouble reassembling the caseback.

If the hour sub dial starts moving with the caseback removed, then either the lower pusher is pressing on the pusher lever when the pusher is off or the movement is not sitting in the case properly. Any or all of the above have been problems that I have found with these cases.

There seems to be a bit of inconsistency of painting techniques used on the chrono hands on the gens. The center chrono seconds hand is usually (though not always) painted a contrasting color to the background color of the dial. If the background color of the dial is black, the chrono seconds is usually white. Sometimes, only the tip is painted & the rest of the hand is left unpainted. And then there are those very rare red-painted center chrono seconds hands.........but best not open that can of worms here.

Remember, these things require ALOT of patience -- even the fully-assembled units (which share the same case components with the V72 kits) can make a grown man cry.

[freddy333]

I think he said the movement is a 7750 with the rotor removed.

[1665fan]

Looks great!!

May I ask what I would have to pay for, and if it's

also available with save shipping to the EU??

Regards

[llsteve80]

Well, I figured out what the deal is with the chrono.......sort of. The stem for the stop/start pusher is too long, and is putting pressure on the movement at all times. I guess I'll chop it down, but I have no time right now. The reset button's lever is slightly bent, so it actually goes over what it's supposed to push.

Now, I must have done something, because the chrono won't start now. I am always careful, and did not even bump anything but after resetting the chrono a couple of times, it doesn't work anymore. I see a lever that should be moving, but isn't when I start it, but I have not yet had the time to figure out why. I so jammed up for the next couple of weeks that I may just have to take it to my watch smith. I don't really have to be doing anything, David said he'd take care of it, but then what's the fun, right?

Oh, and the seconds hand isn't resetting to 12:00.

Here's some pics if anyone has some ideas that could help. Now, I have some serious searching to do.

Ok, circled in red is the lever that when moved, starts the chrono, but does not move when the button is pushed. Circled in blue is the bent lever for the reset button.

Here is a closer view of the reset button:

[freddy333]

2 likely possibilities - either the chrono gearing is out of alignment (difficult to diagnose without having the movement in front of me to play with) or the small 'U' shaped spring that retards the reset clutch has slipped out of place. For the former, you may be able to figure out what the problem is by gently pressing the start/stop (top) pusher to see where the problem is. For the latter, you will need to remove the dial and top 2 cover plates (the uppermost plate screws into the lower plate and some of the extra secs at 6 gears are contained within the 'sandwich') and then reconnect the 'U' spring around the clutch lever. While there, you should also check the condition of the white nylon brake that presses against the hour totalizer gear as this is what ultimately holds the hour totalizer hand stationary when the chrono is OFF.

I included some clear pictures of the assembly in 1 of my previous posts regarding the 7750 Daytona. This may help.

[llsteve80]

There seems to be a few bent levers in the mechinism for the chrono buttons, David and I were emailing pictures back and forth, and have decided for a time saving factor to just replace the movement. He understands that I tried, and I understand that it's not a dud movement, so we came to some decent terms on price. He's also sending me some new hands, and I bought a 6265 bezel in case I want to use that on my upcoming V72. For that one, I'm not sure if I want to go with 6263 with the black dial, or the 6265 with the white dial.

As for this quasi-7760, I just want to put a decent aftermarket band and clasp on there, and probably a gen triplock crown. The current band feels too light for my taste. I think that's all I'll do for this watch though, I'll take my time and go all out on the V72. (or V72's)

Freddy, do you know off-hand how much your V72 daytonas weigh in at? (in grams?)

And thanks for that link, I was looking for that post, as well as your others on the 7750.

I'm assuming that when I place the hands, I should first reset the chrono, and then place every hand at the 12:00 position for correct alignment, and then start and stop it a few times to fine tune the positioning. Any other tips on this from anyone?

What about caseback stickers? I think that would be a nice touch to the finished project

[freddy333]

Alot of the levers in these movements may appear bent, but are in fact not. So be careful about what you point the finger at. You could end up putting another movement in the watch & end up with the same problems after you install it in the case. Always test the movement OUT of the case to see if the movement itself is the problem. Most of the chrono problems I have run across with these movements are related to the case/caseback or to something I bent/damaged while modding. Always test the movement OUT of the case before taking steps to correct or replace anything.

I fit a gen crown/tube, folded link 7835/357 bracelet & Ofrei pushers onto this (de-rotored) 7750 (I decided not to replace the crystal (yet) as the original actually looks quite like the early T21s that came on the gens)

I do not have the right type of scale to do any accurate measurements, but I am sure the DW V72 with gen bracelet, crown/tube & crystal is equal or very close to the weight of the gen.

Unless you want to advertise your watch as a franken or fake, I would not put a caseback sticker on the caseback. It is nearly impossible that a 20+ year old watch would still have a sticker on it. But if you do, it would have to be a gen sticker since I have never seen an accurate vintage sticker of the type that originally came on gen 62xx Daytonas.

[llsteve80]

Alot of the levers in these movements may appear bent, but are in fact not. So be careful about what you point the finger at. You could end up putting another movement in the watch & end up with the same problems after you install it in the case. Always test the movement OUT of the case to see if the movement itself is the problem. Most of the chrono problems I have run across with these movements are related to the case/caseback or to something I bent/damaged while modding. Always test the movement OUT of the case before taking steps to correct or replace anything.

I fit a gen crown/tube, folded link 7835/357 bracelet & Ofrei pushers onto this (de-rotored) 7750 (I decided not to replace the crystal (yet) as the original actually looks quite like the early T21s that came on the gens)

Unless you want to advertise your watch as a franken or fake, I would not put a caseback sticker on the caseback. It is nearly impossible that a 20+ year old watch would still have a sticker on it. But if you do, it would have to be a gen sticker since I have never seen an accurate vintage sticker of the type that originally came on gen 62xx Daytonas.

I did have it out of the case, it was in my movement holder and still nothing worked. I was willing to pay for a new movement to speed up the process since I am sure that there is an issue somewhere with the chrono. The second hand was resetting to about 7 after, and the sub at 6 wasn't "wandering", but resetting off center. I know that one is easy, but I'm just too jammed up right now. With the holidays and the holiday schedule I'm maintaining at work, I decieded that this is the least headache inducing choice.

Good point on the sticker BTW, and thanks for showing the pic that started all of this daytona stuff for me too

I want to spend the money on a gen band for the V72 kit, but I'll go with a better aftermarket band for this one, but I suppose I can just swap them around. We'll see.

My best friend even caught the fever now, and I'm supposed to be ordering him one tomorrow night.

Fun stuff.

[freddy333]

I did have it out of the case, it was in my movement holder and still nothing worked. I was willing to pay for a new movement to speed up the process since I am sure that there is an issue somewhere with the chrono. The second hand was resetting to about 7 after, and the sub at 6 wasn't "wandering", but resetting off center.

The hands not resetting may be due to the wands being loose on the hand tubes -- a very common problem -- I have had to epoxy several loose Daytona hands to get them to reset properly.

[Pugwash]

Wow, what a lot of effort for such an expensive rep! Are they all like this?

[llsteve80]

Wow, what a lot of effort for such an expensive rep! Are they all like this?

I don't know, haven't seen any besides mine and freddy's on here yet. We'll see what happens when my friend gets his in. It wasn't too expensive either, but I did buy a V72 kit and extra dial so he gave me a deal on this one, it was only a little more than the cartel watches. Basically, he sells it for about 40-50 more than them, but they are much more accurate. For the same price you can get the mystery movement (copy V23) with correct subdial spacing and faux subdial at 6, or this rotorless 7750 version. It seems that the case on the 7750 version is the same as the v72, but machined more to fit the 7750. Don't quote me on that though.

Now that I think of it though, the 7750 case has a shallower rehaut, so it probably is just a machined V72 case.

Also, it wouldn't matter how the watch came, I would mess with something whether it be the band, crown, crystal, it just doesn't matter, I always find something to play with. This is my first chrono , so I'm a little perplexed about the intricacies of the movement. I'm sure someone else would have figured it out by now. I'll play with this movement now and try to learn as much as I can, so in the end, it's all worth it to me. Some may think I'm crazy for just buying a whole new movement, but now I don't have to worry about what happens when I play around with this one.

[llsteve80]

Well, I got the movement in today, and it seriously only took about 15 minutes to put everything together, no hitches, no hassles, just beautiful. No gluing the hands, no glue on the dial, just great to have something go together so perfectly on the first try. Every hand lined up, and they all reset perfectly. I am one happy camper.

There are now no issues, I had to clip one of the pusher stems, but that took just a few seconds.

He even sent me a black seconds hand with a white arrow tip on it, but I didn't put that one on since the tube is too big. That is the more accurate hand, is it not? Probably goes better with a different dial.