Marina Militare Assembly

[pannie]

I have purchased a Marina Militare case, dial, hands and movement all off eBay and I would like to undertake the assembly myself. I have purchased some of the tools that I need but I have discovered some gaps in my knowledge. If someone could offer some assistance or a tutorial of watch assembly that would be appraciated.

Known problems:

The pins on the back of the dial are to long, should I remove them and how do I attach the dial to the movement?

What is the best way to clean the case and crystal before assembly?

Should I wear gloves during assembly?

How far to I turn the screw to remove the crown and are the tips and trick to messuring the correct lenght of the crown stem?

Parts purchased:

Thanks.

pannie

[chris5264]

Known problems:

The pins on the back of the dial are to long, should I remove them and how do I attach the dial to the movement?

I would guess the pins are ok,,,looks like you have a seconds pinion (fourth wheel, I believe) at 9 that needs to be shortend. I remember asking The Zigmeister how to do this,,,pretty much use tape the cover the whole movement, stick the pin so it is showing, then file it down using something like a Dremel. However, you can check this, put the dial on the movement and look under to see if it is resting on on something sticking out at 9 o'clock.

What is the best way to clean the case and crystal before assembly?

use air,,,there is a tool (forgot the name) that will blow air onto the case to remove most of the small stuff.

Should I wear gloves during assembly?

I use finger rubbers...not sure what the technical name is...lol.

How far to I turn the screw to remove the crown and are the tips and trick to messuring the correct lenght of the crown stem?

about one and a half turns, try one,,then pull and see, if nothing try one and a half. The stem is kind of similar,,go slow and start off with it too long,,,put it together, if it's too long, file down a bit. This can be pretty slow.

also,,you might want to check,,is that a 47mm case? that dial might be too small for it. See if the dial fits? Good luck,,these can be fun projects.

[pannie]

Known problems:

The pins on the back of the dial are to long, should I remove them and how do I attach the dial to the movement?

I would guess the pins are ok,,,looks like you have a seconds pinion (fourth wheel, I believe) at 9 that needs to be shortend. I remember asking The Zigmeister how to do this,,,pretty much use tape the cover the whole movement, stick the pin so it is showing, then file it down using something like a Dremel. However, you can check this, put the dial on the movement and look under to see if it is resting on on something sticking out at 9 o'clock.

also,,you might want to check,,is that a 47mm case? that dial might be too small for it. See if the dial fits? Good luck,,these can be fun projects.

Thanks for the note about the seconds pinion but there are two large pins at the back of the dial that I though I will shorten with a Dremel and does the dial need to be stuck to the movement or will the hands and the pressure when in the case secure it?

The case is 44mm so the dial fits.

Cheers

pannie

[chris5264]

Thanks for the note about the seconds pinion but there are two large pins at the back of the dial that I though I will shorten with a Dremel and does the dial need to be stuck to the movement or will the hands and the pressure when in the case secure it?

The case is 44mm so the dial fits.

Cheers

pannie

the two large pins on the back of the dial,,,should fit right onto the movement,,,I mean, even if these are really long, they would just stick out of the back of the movement.

(sorry,,need to correct this...the bridges do actually get in the way,,,the the dial feet could be too long I guess)

There are two screws on back of the movement that hold the dial in place when you turn them to the right position. You will need a loupe but look to see if these are in the correct position, a small section of screw is missing, this should line up with the hole,,,so the dial feet can pass. After the dial is in, give the screw a turn. If these are not in the correct position, the dial will not rest on the movement. Some version of this movement have the screws for the dial on the side,,,,easy to check, there would be two small screws on the side of the movement.

Basically, the dial should be secure to the movement, if you had to you could glue or use these things called "dial dots" which glues it down.

[pannie]

the two large pins on the back of the dial,,,should fit right onto the movement,,,I mean, even if these are really long, they would just stick out of the back of the movement. There are two screws on back of the movement that hold the dial in place when you turn them to the right position. You will need a loupe but look to see if these are in the correct position, a small section of screw is missing, this should line up with the hole,,,so the dial feet can pass. After the dial is in, give the screw a turn. If these are not in the correct position, the dial will not rest on the movement. Some version of this movement have the screws for the dial on the side,,,,easy to check, there would be two small screws on the side of the movement.

Basically, the dial should be secure to the movement, if you had to you could glue or use these things called "dial dots" which glues it down.

What you are saying makes sense but there certainly are no holes that go all the way through the movement where the dial can be screwed on and the pins don't have holes in them to take screws. So I gues I wll have to glue it unless you have another suggestion?

[pannie]

What you are saying makes sense but there certainly are no holes that go all the way through the movement where the dial can be screwed on and the pins don't have holes in them to take screws. So I gues I wll have to glue it unless you have another suggestion?

Let me rephrase that - I'll look for dial dots to secure the dial - not glue.

[rmcsherry]

If it's a 6497, the holes are there! Have a look at the sides of the movement, and you'll see the 2 screws (one either side) that clamp the dial feet.

[RWG Technical]

It may be more economical to simply pay someone to assemble the watch for you.

Assembling this watch from scratch, having to grind down pinions, cutting and fitting the stem, crystal install, casing, etc... is a lot for someone to take on who has no knowledge of watchsmithing.

If you can't sort out where the dial feet go on the movement, maybe your in over your head.

It's great to want to learn to do watch stuff on your own, but I think for a first project, your taking on far too much, and asking members to walk you through each and every process and procedure to get this job done, is a daunting task. It's also nice to have new members support the forum, vs only coming here to get the information they can't get at other forums and then disapearing.

As rmcsherry just pointed out, the holes for the dial are there.

RG

[pannie]

If it's a 6497, the holes are there! Have a look at the sides of the movement, and you'll see the 2 screws (one either side) that clamp the dial feet.

Yes it's a 6497, I only have this picture and the one I posted earlier. Even if the holes are there (and I just haven't spotted them yet) what do I do with the two studs sticking out the back of the dial? I don't have my camera with me so I can't post a picture of the back of the dial.

[pannie]

It may be more economical to simply pay someone to assemble the watch for you.

Assembling this watch from scratch, having to grind down pinions, cutting and fitting the stem, crystal install, casing, etc... is a lot for someone to take on who has no knowledge of watchsmithing.

If you can't sort out where the dial feet go on the movement, maybe your in over your head.

It's great to want to learn to do watch stuff on your own, but I think for a first project, your taking on far too much, and asking members to walk you through each and every process and procedure to get this job done, is a daunting task. It's also nice to have new members support the forum, vs only coming here to get the information they can't get at other forums and then disapearing.

As rmcsherry just pointed out, the holes for the dial are there.

RG

I accept what you are saying and I don't want to waste this forums time. I have the details I need and get started.

Thanks for all the assitance and replies.

[chris5264]

I accept what you are saying and I don't want to waste this forums time. I have the details I need and get started.

Thanks for all the assitance and replies.

If I can offer my take on things..I am trying very hard to understand that the only way to waste time is to not attend to the present moment. Every single time I mess up something on a watch it is because I am not attending to the present moment and start getting excited about the outcome. In all likelihood something (probably many things) will go "wrong". Good luck,,I'm working on it myself.

[RWG Technical]

I accept what you are saying and I don't want to waste this forums time. I have the details I need and get started.

Thanks for all the assitance and replies.

Interesting...my guess is that someone cut and pasted the Wiki section describing how to do this, you got what you wanted without contributing or participating in this forum, and now your gone to where you came from.

Certainly the answers you got here don't contain enough info to help you out...

If someone did this, then that's not good news for RWG and I think underhanded.

RG

[pannie]

Interesting...my guess is that someone cut and pasted the Wiki section describing how to do this, you got what you wanted without contributing or participating in this forum, and now your gone to where you came from.

Certainly the answers you got here don't contain enough info to help you out...

If someone did this, then that's not good news for RWG and I think underhanded.

RG

I don't plan to disappear, I would like to contribute to the forum and I will post pictures and lesson learned when I'm done. I had several known problems at the begining of this post and I now have solutions or work-arounds for each of my queries so I feel that I can progress and nobody emailed me a Wiki section. I realise this is a challenge and I would like to undertake it.

pannie

[RWG Technical]

I don't plan to disappear, I would like to contribute to the forum and I will post pictures and lesson learned when I'm done. I had several known problems at the begining of this post and I now have solutions or work-arounds for each of my queries so I feel that I can progress and nobody emailed me a Wiki section. I realise this is a challenge and I would like to undertake it.

pannie

Well I hope that you do continue to participate on the forum. There have been and will continue to be many who only come here to take what they can, and once they have it, they go away...

You do have a challenge ahead of you with this one, especially as a first project. Can't wait to see the follow up.

RG

[madasboot]

It may be more economical to simply pay someone to assemble the watch for you.

Assembling this watch from scratch, having to grind down pinions, cutting and fitting the stem, crystal install, casing, etc... is a lot for someone to take on who has no knowledge of watchsmithing.

RG

I totally agree.

Even if you feel capable of doing the needed surgeries by yourself is better to let them be made by the hands of a professional...

M.

[pannie]

I totally agree.

Even if you feel capable of doing the needed surgeries by yourself is better to let them be made by the hands of a professional...

M.

Okay, but I want to learn - I'm going to try and if I fail then I will replace what I break and sent it to a watchsmith.

pannie

[bazonkers]

Okay, but I want to learn - I'm going to try and if I fail then I will replace what I break and sent it to a watchsmith.

pannie

I don't fault you for this path at all. If you go into this understanding that there is a good chance you will break something, then go for it. I like learning by doing myself as well. I'm going to get some tools and hack on my older crappy reps. You chose to work on a more expensive project. Above all else, you will definitely learn something.

I agree with The Zigmeister, don't disappear. I'd like to learn from your experiences along with many other members of this forum.

Good luck!

[madasboot]

You are right. Good luck with it!

[leftydna]

Hi,

Besides being taught by someone else, learning by doing is a good way to go. However it is sometimes also expensisve, depending on the skill of the teacher and the humbleness of the student . I applaud your effort and encourage you to keep going. To help you on your way a little info:

The first picture you posted is the dial side of the movement. ALL ETA 6497 movements have holes for the dial legs. If you hold the dial over the movement with 3 o'clock lined up with the stem and slowly lower you should find the holes in the movement plate. The 6497 is indeed set up to attach a seperate second hand to the fourth wheel pivot which protrudes beyond the plate leaving two options. Replace with a shorter pivot on the fourth wheel or cut it off. Once this is resolved the dial lined up correctly should lower flush to the movement. Now if you wanted to set the dial up to be used destro you would have two options. Cut the legs off and either use double sided tape to attach to the movement (a method recommended to you earlier) or resolder in new position (Something way beyond your skill level at this time). Fortunately I don't believe your one of us blessed with the specialness of being lefthanded and so have one less thing to worry about. One last note on cutting the stem, measure multiple times, cut once. And after cutting file flat and check threads.

______________

Don't be LEFT out

LeftyDNA

Yes it's a 6497, I only have this picture and the one I posted earlier. Even if the holes are there (and I just haven't spotted them yet) what do I do with the two studs sticking out the back of the dial? I don't have my camera with me so I can't post a picture of the back of the dial.

[pannie]

Hi,

Besides being taught by someone else, learning by doing is a good way to go. However it is sometimes also expensisve, depending on the skill of the teacher and the humbleness of the student . I applaud your effort and encourage you to keep going. To help you on your way a little info:

The first picture you posted is the dial side of the movement. ALL ETA 6497 movements have holes for the dial legs. If you hold the dial over the movement with 3 o'clock lined up with the stem and slowly lower you should find the holes in the movement plate. The 6497 is indeed set up to attach a seperate second hand to the fourth wheel pivot which protrudes beyond the plate leaving two options. Replace with a shorter pivot on the fourth wheel or cut it off. Once this is resolved the dial lined up correctly should lower flush to the movement. Now if you wanted to set the dial up to be used destro you would have two options. Cut the legs off and either use double sided tape to attach to the movement (a method recommended to you earlier) or resolder in new position (Something way beyond your skill level at this time). Fortunately I don't believe your one of us blessed with the specialness of being lefthanded and so have one less thing to worry about. One last note on cutting the stem, measure multiple times, cut once. And after cutting file flat and check threads.

______________

Don't be LEFT out

LeftyDNA

Thanks for the info and you're right I'm not a lefty so no destro required. I checked the movement last ight, found the holes through the movement that dont' match the current dial pins so they will be removed (I have ordered dial dots) and so will the seconds hand be removed. I am waiting for some tools to arrive but I will keep you posted on my progress.

pannie