offshore Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Recently I have been experimenting with my lighting! Over 5+ years of repairing, I have worked with, a) a fluro circular tube, outside a magnifying lens, b ) natural light from a close window, and c) a 100w globe, ceiling suspended, in the centre of the room.. Maybe I am getting older, but the eyes don't seem to be working as well, so I did some research, and came to a few conclusions on lighting my work area. Firstly my magnifying ring, gives just adequate light for basic work, but detailed work needs better levels of lighting. So I purchased a twin tube fluro "shop light" and invested in two daylight - white light tubes for it. This is suspended about 1M above my work area. I also purchased a halogen desk light which I can position for extra lighting for detail work. And now I can see again! The other area I have been concerned about, since I began repairing, is the height I am working at. I sometimes find with less precise jobs, that I have unconsciously picked up the watch or movement in my left hand, and then braced that hand, to get the job closer to my eyes. Wrong!! Following a recent post here about this subject, I went to my local "storage solutions" store, and picked up a 4 drawer plastic moulded set of drawers. They had the advantage of being very rigid, and had locking drawers, (so the drawers didn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Very interesting and helpful. My light is a Colour Corrected flourecent light on a swivel adjustable base. I move it around as needed depending on what I am working on and doing. As for a bench, I have a standard watchmaker's bench with the 39" height and drawers etc... Next to this is a table with my Vibrograph, my staking and jewelling sets. Everything is close at hand and the only thing on the bench top is my screwdrivers and oil cups and automatic oilers and storage containers. The rest is in the bench easily taken out as needed. RG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azerbyjam Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 That's very useful info offshore, especially as I just kicked off on the TZ course. On that subject, while I wait for my 2801 to arrive I have been having a look at level 2 and tinkering with a Sellita SW200 that I sort of broke a while ago, with the SW 200 being, as far as I can tell, identical to the 2824, most of the lesson is applicable and all the parts I've handled so far seem to be the same. However due to the recent intervention of my cat I lost a few pieces and as I cant find Sellita spares anywhere I was wondering if anyone might now if ETA parts might fit this movement. I specifically need the hacking lever, ratchet wheel, the screw that secures the crown wheel and the screws that secure the barrel bridge. Any input much appreciated. azerbyjam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 click here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offshore Posted April 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 @freddy. Wouldn't i love to get one of those, may have to build one! The freight for that to Oz would be 3 times its cost! offshore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.