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Noobmariner.... so long "eta" 2813?


llsteve80

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I got a noob or begin mariner yesterday, and it has the miyota copy in it, not the DG 2813.

The pictures on the site show the Miyota, so I missed it.

I noticed that the second hand is a little jerky compared to the DG, which is supposedly 28.8k, I don't know about that, the 2813 is supposed to be 21.6. I guess the dealers dont advertise it with 28.8 anymore though either.

Whatever is in this noob sucks compared to whatever the old movement was. Two of them sitting side by side and I see a huge difference. I can actually count the number of "ticks" per second, 4, and the DG I can't tell if I'm seeing 6 or 8. Way smoother.

The heck with the white lie about beats per hour, I want the old movement back!

BTW, the movement is silver in color and has NN stamped under the balance wheel.

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quote =

I got a noob or begin mariner yesterday, and it has the miyota copy in it, not the DG 2813.

The pictures on the site show the Miyota, so I missed it.

I noticed that the second hand is a little jerky compared to the DG, which is supposedly 28.8k, I don't know about that, the 2813 is supposed to be 21.6. I guess the dealers dont advertise it with 28.8 anymore though either.

Whatever is in this noob sucks compared to whatever the old movement was. Two of them sitting side by side and I see a huge difference. I can actually count the number of "ticks" per second, 4, and the DG I can't tell if I'm seeing 6 or 8. Way smoother.

The heck with the white lie about beats per hour, I want the old movement back!

BTW, the movement is silver in color and has NN stamped under the balance wheel.

/quote

The DG/CH 2813 is a Miyota copy.

A Miyota look alike with NN = Nanning 38.

The Miyota clones I have seen...DG/CH 2813, NN 38 etc were 21,600 bph.

I have seen them with "Swiss Made 25 jewels", "7 Jewels China" and "21 jewels China" on them...all were the exact same movement.

Imho a good or bad movement of this type usually depends on dirt in the movement, dry jewels etc vs clean and properly lubricated. I have had a lot or trouble with these movements.

I have had much better luck with the Seagull ST 16. It looks a lot like the other two except it has a version of Seiko's "Magic Lever" in place of a reverser etc.

I have some ST 16 movements from 5 or 6 years ago with "Pusan Co. S. Korea, 18 jewels unadjusted" on them. I read somewhere that they had a factory in South Korea.

The stuttering second hand is a common problem with these movements. It is caused by the tension spring rubbing the sweep second pinion not having enough tension. This allows the second hand to miss a beat now and then. It does not harm anything at all, it is just distracting.

To check for this problem, hold the watch vertically and the second hand should track perfectly while the long heavy end of the second hand is moving 'uphill' and sometimes skip when the long end moves 'downhill'.

Be warned that if you take the top plate off a DG/CH 2813 etc to bend the tension spring a little to provide more friction...all the train wheels, reverser etc are under this one plate. They can be a real hassle to put back together.

The ST 16 is not as bad. All you have to do is remove the winding rotor and the plate over the "Magic Lever" to get to the tension spring. You need to be very careful and put the "wishbone" winding fork back right though.

Good luck! :D

J3

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can you post a pic of it as im pretty sure they are all DG 2813's

Sorry there, didn't see this post before. Here's some pics from my photobucket. Let me know if you need to see any different angles or anything.

This is the old one. The new one is silver and has just a sticker on the one wheel.

2813.jpg

movement2.jpg

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the old version is using the eta clone 2836.. and it is 28800bph.. i do have this kind of modded noob in my watchbox too.. it is exactly the same as the 2836 minus the stampings.. however the new one uses the cloned 2813 movement.. (in my yachtmaster) and yes they have diff beats.. :)

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