pitimany Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 with a gen dial... you got me way too excited. That's a project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slay Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 you should be able to use the rep dial. AFAIR Venus&Valjoux23 have the same subdial spacing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gplracer Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 you should be able to use the rep dial. AFAIR Venus&Valjoux23 have the same subdial spacing I have some questions too. After a lot of reading I have not gotten an answer 1. Does the subdial spacing differ on the the different models that DW offers? 2. I saw someone say something about the rehault depth. Is it different? 3. I know a lot of the newer daytona models are said to be somewhat unreliable with the 7750 movement. Due to either extra teeth on the gears (I think I read that) Is this true with this vintage model as well? 4. I could be wrong but I doubt I would ever spend the money on a V22 movement due to the price. If this is the case which model would you recommend? Thanks for your time in answering these above questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 1. Does the subdial spacing differ on the the different models that DW offers? Yes, slightly, depending on which movement - Vajloux 23/72 or A7750. 2. I saw someone say something about the rehault depth. Is it different? No. 3. I know a lot of the newer daytona models are said to be somewhat unreliable with the 7750 movement. Due to either extra teeth on the gears (I think I read that) Is this true with this vintage model as well? No (unserviced) rep should ever be considered to be trouble-free. However, the problems that plague the secs @ 6 7750s used in modern Daytona reps are inherent to the additional secs @ 6 componentry, which are not used for the secs @ 9 7750s that are used in vintage Daytona reps. Properly serviced, the standard A7750 (secs @ 9) has a very good track record as a generally reliable movement. 4. I could be wrong but I doubt I would ever spend the money on a V22 movement due to the price. If this is the case which model would you recommend Your choices for DW Daytonas are the Valjoux 23 (2 working subdials), Valjoux 72 (3 working subdials, same as the gen 62xx Daytonas) or asymmetrically pushered A7750 (3 working subdials). You need to use the Search to more homework, but I will give you this (ignore the prices quoted in that thread & contact DW (not me) for details). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gplracer Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Yes, slightly, depending on which movement - Vajloux 23/72 or A7750. No. No (unserviced) rep should ever be considered to be trouble-free. However, the problems that plague the secs @ 6 7750s used in modern Daytona reps are inherent to the additional secs @ 6 componentry, which are not used for the secs @ 9 7750s that are used in vintage Daytona reps. Properly serviced, the standard A7750 (secs @ 9) has a very good track record as a generally reliable movement. Your choices for DW Daytonas are the Valjoux 23 (2 working subdials), Valjoux 72 (3 working subdials, same as the gen 62xx Daytonas) or asymmetrically pushered A7750 (3 working subdials). You need to use the Search to more homework, but I will give you this (ignore the prices quoted in that thread & contact DW (not me) for details). Thanks Freddy, As usual you on the "Daytona Man" Is there any concern about manual winding a 7750? I thought that was a no no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Is there any concern about manual winding a 7750? I thought that was a no no. If the movement is properly serviced (unless you have a watchmaker service it, your rep comes with an unserviced movement), I see nothing wrong with manually winding a stopped watch to get it started. However, I would not recommend manually winding an auto-wind movement on a regular basis as this can prematurely wear the auto-wind components. Ziggy has articles on this that you can find via the Search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gplracer Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 If the movement is properly serviced (unless you have a watchmaker service it, your rep comes with an unserviced movement), I see nothing wrong with manually winding a stopped watch to get it started. However, I would not recommend manually winding an auto-wind movement on a regular basis as this can prematurely wear the auto-wind components. The Zigmeister has articles on this that you can find via the Search. I understand that. I read the article by The Zigmeister and looked at the pictures. BTW great job The Zigmeister! I just wondered because a 7750 is an automatic wind movement. Are you saying that something needs to be done to the 7750 besides removing the rotor and servicing it? Or are you saying that even with the rotor removed the 7750 is not a good watch to manually wind. I have a feeling this question shows my lack of knowledge of how an automatic watch works........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Are you saying that something needs to be done to the 7750 besides removing the rotor and servicing it? Or are you saying that even with the rotor removed the 7750 is not a good watch to manually wind. The problem is that the reverser wheels, which transmit the rotor's oscillations to the movement & spin at relatively high velocities, will get worn out from frequent manual winding. Removing the rotor does not help here if you leave the reverser wheels in place. On my vintage A7750 Daytonas, in addition to the rotor, I remove all of the components (including the reversers) connected to & contained in the auto-wind module bridge. This effectively turns the movement into a pseudo-manual-wind & eliminates the wear issues related to the auto-wind components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gplracer Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 The problem is that the reverser wheels, which transmit the rotor's oscillations to the movement & spin at relatively high velocities, will get worn out from frequent manual winding. Removing the rotor does not help here if you leave the reverser wheels in place. On my vintage A7750 Daytonas, in addition to the rotor, I remove all of the components (including the reversers) connected to & contained in the auto-wind module bridge. This effectively turns the movement into a pseudo-manual-wind & eliminates the wear issues related to the auto-wind components. THAT is what I needed to know. Thanks Freddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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