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Next RWG Project: Hand Sets for Angelus 240 & Cortebert 616


t

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Really nice project and nice thread with a lot to learn.

Also T, i think you choosed a good way. More pricey but original and with good quality.

I'm collecting parts to try to make a watch by my own and i was a little bit disapointed by the rep hands i saw. Your project seems to be useful and you should sell everything.

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@Ross

i have no more of the curved hands :o flat hands only :huh:

i think the last one had send to you <_<

please send me one of your curved rose gold hands (new condition).... we need this as sample!

if i am correct... the hour hand only is curved and the minute hand is flat??????? Please check it.

I need also on of your dials as sample to measuring the size of the hands and especially the second hand pin for Angelus. Please be sure that your dials are PERFECT as we build the hands set to fitting your dials... without your dials are our hands set WORTHLESS.

@Vdbrouke

we need a picture of an vintage model with Cortebert/rolex movement and the curved rose gold hands... we need to be sure that this curved rose gold hands set was used also by 618 caliber and not by 240 cal. only.

@all

what should we do with the thickness of the hands. We have 3 options

1. we use the origin design (thick hour hand curved, thin minute hand flat) like on picture

2. we build the minute hand thicker like the hour hand

3. we build the hour hand thinner like the minute hand

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Tourby,

Some of the watches do have curved hour / flat minute hands - however, curved minute hands do exist and look much better with the curved hour hands! If you look at my carded hands, the 4 sets on the left have curved minute hands, and the 2 sets on the right are both flat. I can send you a set with the curved hour / minute for reference for this project if required.

Curved hands did exist in base dials - but the movement used for these watches (Rolex or Angelus) remains a mystery!

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"if i am correct... the hour hand only is curved and the minute hand is flat??????? Please check it."

no, the two are curved; i have the two set , gold and rose gold, the two hands are curved; but maybe you can find watches with a mix of the two in the gold color, but for the rose gold color if i remember correctly i never see flat ones in the rose gold color.

"we need a picture of an vintage model with Cortebert/rolex movement and the curved rose gold hands... we need to be sure that this curved rose gold hands set was used also by 618 caliber and not by 240 cal. only."

I have never see vintage cortebert with curved hand because curved hands are from angelus and for angelus.

The most(all?) of watches with cortebert/rolex have flat hand in the dagger style; the first one just after war are more short and more sharp/dagger(i don't know the name in english)

"what should we do with the thickness of the hands. We have 3 options

1. we use the origin design (thick hour hand curved, thin minute hand flat) like on picture

2. we build the minute hand thicker like the hour hand

3. we build the hour hand thinner like the minute hand"

The best choice for me will be the two thick and curved.

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@Ross

I need also on of your dials as sample to measuring the size of the hands and especially the second hand pin for Angelus. Please be sure that your dials are PERFECT as we build the hands set to fitting your dials... without your dials are our hands set WORTHLESS.

My dials fit if that's what you mean! I'm looking into another run, but would probably create only a few Angelus dials and the rest Cortebert (unless there is still a huge demand for Angelus dials?). These would ideally avoid any trademarks - so plain, MM or fictional dials (like the Gruppo Gamma one).

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My dials fit if that's what you mean! I'm looking into another run, but would probably create only a few Angelus dials and the rest Cortebert (unless there is still a huge demand for Angelus dials?). These would ideally avoid any trademarks - so plain, MM or fictional dials (like the Gruppo Gamma one).

Oh yes, a new run of dials :rolleyes:

The one with subdials, angelus or unitas are perfect, don't need to change anything.

For angelus i have what i need , so new base one for cortebert or unitas will be nice.

Maybe one with only Gruppo gamma instead of MM ?

If you plane to do unitas subdials more , i will be interested by a MM GG one, for an all day use and for a full case back.

You want to avoid any trademarks ? it's nice because i don't want to make fake pam :lol:

Thanks again for all you work ,

(R, i will PM you this evening , now it's time togo eat :D )

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strange! I have 3 rose gold hands set here... all with curved thick hour hand and flat thin minute hand??? This minute hand looks not like the hour hand... probably it is replaced later? but if i check vintage PAM

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Tourby,

The curved hands do appear on some base models - we can only assume that the movement was in fact an Angelus (as the hands appear to be from an Angelus)...

6152.jpg

Personally, I think the curved hands look great - there are so many variations, that historical accuracy becomes less of an issue and personal preference takes over!

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OK

we have the design

curved hands, rose gold, thick hour hand, thinner minute hand

the hole size for angelus are 0.8mm and 1.55mm... we need the hole size for the second hand? Anyone knows it?

anyone know the hole size for Cortebert?

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Not sure about the second hand - it's smaller than a Unitas I believe. I've got a few spare forth wheels with second pinion - all of them measure 0.21mm across the pinion (two are bestfit replacements, one is directly from an Angelus movement - so I guess this measurement is correct). I'm not sure what allowance you need for the tube - I'm guessing 0.01-0.05mm would be enough?

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Yes, good choice, short thick hour hand, curved and rose gold; perfect for angelus project.

If someone are interested for cortebert ones, i vote for the number 13, with the long point .

Nice for base dial.

Maybe even not more high price because this one will be made flat.

If possible for you to make the two style hands let we know T :)

Do you know if it can be possible to do a special order somewhere even for only one set ? because i need correct blue hands for the 3646 project i have.

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T. say pro cal 1x hands!

important here is designs,size build for the hands

ok Angelus is curved hands, rose gold, thick hour hand, thinner minute hand

difficult i think the trimmed sechand is nice(rarer,difference to 203,267)

Cortebert???

i think for a exclusive project...exclusive design

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I just got back form my 2 day biz trip and I see this thread is really going on strong...the knowledge of some of you guys is really to appreciate...the pic from R with all the dials w hands is worth every praise...

I like the choice for the Angelus hands...curved, rose gold...hopefully the sec hand will be done as well...

as for the Cortebert hands, since the blue ones are out of competition, my vote goes to nr.15...

you guys are amazing!!

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Guys

if you want an different design for the Cortebert.... we should realise this Cortebert project as first.

I could send the Cortebert movement + drawings for the hands to the factory and we would have the hands within 2-3 months. The Cortebert hands are easier to realise... because the hands are flat and we don

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I guess the pointed gold ones - I personally have no preference of long / short point.

Just an idea - would it be possible to create ones with the cross bar on the hour hand using the same tooling? That way, some people would be able to buy this style and have them flame blued by themselves. Just an idea - no idea if it impacts on the price / complexity though!

I Ross

"flame blue" is possible with an special stainless steel material only...

but the hands won

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