Service Requirements for movements in Long-Term storage?

[TeeJay]

I know that five years is the average time between services for a watch which is being worn and in use, but how about a watch which was going into longterm storage? I'm thinking about building a watch for my godson, and essentially locking it away for fifteen years, so it will be in pristine condition for when he's old enough to appreciate it. As the watch would be totally 'run down' and not operating at all, would it need periodic servicing during the storage period, or servicing afterwards? As it wouldn't be in operation, would the movement 'seize up'? What would be the best way to handle a situation like this?

Thanks in advance for any advice

[Toadtorrent]

If the movement is not moving (in other words not in a winder for 15 years), there will be no wear on anything so you won't have to worry about the parts wearing out. Assuming it's not in a high humidity environment and the watch is reasonably sealed, there shouldn't be any rust issues.

The Zigmeister has said that grease/oil gums up over time with or without usage and that's why it needs to be replaced over time regardless of use. So, likely a servicing in 15 years is what it will need...essentially changing out the old grease and oil and replacing the seals which will have dried out.

[TeeJay]

If the movement is not moving (in other words not in a winder for 15 years), there will be no wear on anything so you won't have to worry about the parts wearing out. Assuming it's not in a high humidity environment and the watch is reasonably sealed, there shouldn't be any rust issues.

Ziggy has said that grease/oil gums up over time with or without usage and that's why it needs to be replaced over time regardless of use. So, likely a servicing in 15 years is what it will need...essentially changing out the old grease and oil and replacing the seals which will have dried out.

Thanks for the input I had wondered about the issue of it gumming up over time. I guess if I put it to one side once it's built, but keep hold of it, rather than giving it to his mother to look after, in fifteen years, I'll be able to get it serviced myself, rather than making her pay for it I'll just have to spend the next fifteen years getting him hooked on watches

[offshore]

TJ,

I have had many -old- "been in the drawer for X years" watches come across my bench.

It is truly amazing, that some actually run with winding; after these major time outs, and MANY others will again operate, after some time on the wrist (read - body heat) or a few hours on the kitchen window ledge ...in the sun! (read- heat again)

If I was going to "lock a movement down" for a number of years, I would probably avoid too much lubrication in it!

(Maybe even think about some sort of "surface coating" - WD40 comes to mind)

So I think a cleaned movement, without too much/or no, lube, but with some form of surface protectorent, and then sealed, (even better- vacuum sealed) may be the way I would look. ????????????????????

Just guessing....

Offshore

[TeeJay]

TJ,

I have had many -old- "been in the drawer for X years" watches come across my bench.

It is truly amazing, that some actually run with winding; after these major time outs, and MANY others will again operate, after some time on the wrist (read - body heat) or a few hours on the kitchen window ledge ...in the sun! (read- heat again)

If I was going to "lock a movement down" for a number of years, I would probably avoid too much lubrication in it!

(Maybe even think about some sort of "surface coating" - WD40 comes to mind)

So I think a cleaned movement, without too much/or no, lube, but with some form of surface protectorent, and then sealed, (even better- vacuum sealed) may be the way I would look. ????????????????????

Just guessing....

Offshore

Awesome input, thank you Vacuum sealing would certainly be an interesting way to go

[RWG Technical]

The oils are going to dry up and turn hard and slightly acidic during that time, you can't avoid it.

If you were doing this from scratch, then I would suggest that the best option would be a completely dry movement, with no oils anywhere. In other words, tear it down, clean and rinse it, assemble without any oils. If there is no oil, it can't dry up and turn hard. Getting it running again would be simple, a slight teardown to apply the required oils, and your off to the races...

Sealed with a dessicant is mandatory to ensure no corrosion.

RG

[TeeJay]

The oils are going to dry up and turn hard and slightly acidic during that time, you can't avoid it.

If you were doing this from scratch, then I would suggest that the best option would be a completely dry movement, with no oils anywhere. In other words, tear it down, clean and rinse it, assemble without any oils. If there is no oil, it can't dry up and turn hard. Getting it running again would be simple, a slight teardown to apply the required oils, and your off to the races...

Sealed with a dessicant is mandatory to ensure no corrosion.

RG

Thanks for your input, that definitely sounds like the best way to go. Do you think a couple of small packs of silica gel would be sufficient?

[Toadtorrent]

Aaah...leave it to the ZOOOOMBA to provide the most knowledgeable answer. Interesting...assembly dry. Makes sense!!