Swiss ETA 28xx-2 or Asian clone? Just listen!

[Tee]

A word of thanks

I thank all who posted info that gave me the nerve to buy my first rep in October 08, and subsequently to buy three more reps for self and for gifts. I got them all online from two dealers associated with this forum. Prior to discovering this forum, I was scared to order from any of the numerous spammers and others who offered reps online.

Introduction

In selecting two of the reps I bought online, I chose those with I-GIG (I guarantee it genuine) Swiss ETA 2836-2 movements. However, after I received the first watch with the I-GIG Swiss ETA 2836-2 movement, right off I noticed that when hand winded, the watch clicked differently than the genuine Swiss ETA 2824s and 2836s that I have in my genuine watch accumulation (see by my signature). Before I got a winder, I had developed the habit of listening to the clicks and other sounds while hand winding my watches. I found that genuine Swiss ETA2824-2 and 2836-2 movements in five of the watches in my genuine brand accumulation make very similar sounds when being hand winded, whereas the two reps and the Wenger 72766 with the

Edited May 10, 2009 by Tee

[jnkay]

Wondering if another factor may be that the genuine movements came lubricated, whereas the rep movements are dry from the factory.

[Shundi]

Wondering if another factor may be that the genuine movements came lubricated, whereas the rep movements are dry from the factory.

True...although I seem to recall reading that many of the ETA clones are fairly well oiled as compared to some of the surplus "gen" ETA movements that go into some watches...a crapshoot I guess- when in doubt...have it serviced!

[RWG Technical]

It looks like you spent a lot of time doing the research, well documented.

First, a word of warning, if your hearing spinning sounds from the click wheels, you will damage them. Keep in mind that one full turn of the crown, is dozens and dozens of turns of the reverser click wheels. The gear train is designed to step down the rotor turns to the mainspring, winding by hand is doing the reverse and is very damaging.

As for the clicks you hear that is the mainspring bridle sliding from one notch in the mainspring barrel sides to the next notch as the mainspring reaches full wind. It's not existing on all models (depending on the age of the movemnet, some mainspring barrels have smooth sides, others have notches), and there are many other variables as well, how new or old the mainspring is, when was the movement last serviced and was the mainspring lubricated with the correct grease, etc...

I would not state that clicking or not or the rate of clicking is a sign of the type of movement you have, there are just too many other variables.

The easiest and most sure way to find out, is to open the caseback and have a look.

Please keep in mind, that winding these movements by hand enough to reach full wind, unless done extremely slowly, really slowly, will damage the gears. Gears cost big dollars to replace, ETA parts have shot up in price during the past 18 months.

RG