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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2012 in Posts

  1. 12:15AM June 30th and it's still light enough to play outdoors. Anyone up for a mtn bike ride? It's not getting any darker out but the dogs down the mountain are barking at something big, with claws.
    2 points
  2. May be a bit repetitive and requires a modicum of patience, but it's always worked for me. I currently have six (ETAs 2836-2s & 2671-2s, and Asian 7750s & 7753s) all synched with each other, almost to the exact second. The way I do mine is as follows: 1) Open the digital clock on your computer. 2) Remove the case-back 3) Stop the second hand on the watch by pulling the crown out to the time-set position, to activate the hacking movement (stop the second hand directly at the twelve o'clock position). 4) Then roll the minute hand forward to where it will be, one minute from now. 5) When the digital second hand on the computer reaches 12 o'clock, push the crown back in so the watch & the computer's clock are now synched to the exact hour, minute & second. 6) Put the watch on a winder for a night & compare your watch to the computer's clock after 24 hours to see how far off they are. 7) Pop the caseback. For example, if the watch is now fast by 10 seconds per 24 hours, simply adjust the screw so that it loses 10 seconds for every 24 hours; alternatively, do the opposite, if it's slow by 10 seconds. (If adjusting via the screw doesn't regulate it enough, on an ETA movement--like the one pictured below--the farther apart you move arms A & B from each other, the longer the stroke, so the slower the watch will run. However, a little goes a long way with this, so use cautiously) Each notch towards "+" represents a 5 second gain per 24 hours. Each notch towards "-" represents a 5 second loss per 24 hours. Adjust accordingly NOTE: For Asian chrono movements, they're slightly different. See the little regulation arm circled in red?: If it's running too fast, you'll want to move it to the right (counter-clockwise, as shown with the red arrow below: If it's running too slow, you'll want to move it to the left (clockwise & opposite of the red arrow's direction). The regulation arm on the Asian 7750s & 7753s (sub-dials at 6, 9, & 12 o'clock, or at 3,6, and 9) are very sensitive--they only need to me moved a fraction of an inch at a time; not as much as the picture shows (it's merely an exaggeration to illustrate a point). Now repeat steps 3-7, to test it's accuracy. This should be perfected after a couple of days. I technically have no way to measure the movement's beat-rate via electronics or machinery, but at this point don't really need or care about that, as long as the watch is keeping the best time it can. I've now got six synched automatic watches that are so precise, I can literally watch the second hand roll over the 12 o''clock position at the very second when the time on my cell phone (or computer) changes minutes. They're damn near almost exact as digital or quartz watches now. Note: Depending on what position you store your automatic watch in, will play a role in determining how many seconds it gains or loses every night--this is why I keep them on a winder, so that they are constantly moving and not at rest (in the same position). If you lay an automatic watch flat & level (with the crystal facing up), it will usually gain a couple of seconds per night. If you lay the watch on its side (with the crown facing down) it will lose a second or two per night. Contrarily, if it's stored on its side (crown facing up), it will generally lose 2 seconds--or more--per night. EDIT: Chances are, if you've performed all of this and your movement is still too slow or too fast, it's running dry & will probably need a full service. On the bright side, once done, you won't have to touch it again for another five years. Hope this is of some help to you. Have fun!
    1 point
  3. Still wearing the rail dial. The sun is out so i am going to update this photo later
    1 point
  4. v2 diver, v3 strap sorry for the crotch shot hahaa
    1 point
  5. Where are you in the world? If you are in the the EU i will fix that for free
    1 point
  6. Hmm, the thread seems to have hit a log-jam. Having said that, how do you find the Noctilumina? Better than Superluminova? Same?
    1 point
  7. UPDATE 2012!!!!! http://www.paneraicollection.com/server/downloadDesktopApp.php
    1 point
  8. Have spent the day building this sweet, sweet 6152
    1 point
  9. Exactly, they glow bright after a charge, and only with a dark room and adjusted eyes will you see the glow (quality)REP or GEN. Exception: Ball Watch and Doxa 800Ti with Tritium Tubes. (I think a few other brands are using Tritium Tubes now). My Ball's glow with the same intensity 24x7
    1 point
  10. I will have to check with a Gen dial, but it looks like it's ETA based. E
    1 point
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