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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/27/2013 in Posts

  1. 3 points
  2. The escapement works with radial friction yes...and it therefor needs no oil. So it is a better design of the escapement mechanism you won't hear me say anything different. But like I said before, all the other parts do need oil and service like every other movement! Some oil may have a life span of 7-10 years but that is theoretical. I have torn apart 100s of watches, Pateks, APs, Rollies etc and after 5 years of wearing all the oil and grease has either dried up or gummed up. And these brand also use the best of the best when it comes to oils. So why do people buy a co-axial? Because of the whole story of Daniels behind it and the the way they marketed it as 'the' biggest invention in watch history the last decade'. Sure at the AD they tell you it only needs service once every 10 years or so but that's also a marketing gimmick. I truly truly believe and promote as much service intervals on a co-axial as on a regular movement. You should see how the keyless works looks after 3 years... all the dirt and debree that comes in with the crown operation will contaminate the whole movement. Not to mention non-movement related parts like seals. No co-axial escapement will safe your watch from dirt, water or gummed up oils.
    2 points
  3. Autumn picture I took today of my Hublot Big Bang Rose Gold, so this is what i'm wearing at this moment
    2 points
  4. It was suggested that I repost this for the knowledge base so I have revised it a bit. Before we start, this is a bit complicated and people may choose to weigh in with different opinions and explanations. If you choose to invest the time and effort necessary to follow this, it is not wasted. I am a Dive Master with something in excess of 3000 HRs underwater, and my second academic pursuit was Mechanical Engineering. I understand Boyles Law perfectly well, PV=NRT is very basic to me, and I am perfectly well qualified to teach this. I say that because there were some differences of opinion last time this was discussed. Here we go. Understand that there is pressurized air inside your watch. If you are standing at sea level, it should be at about 14.7 psi - but we will say 15 to keep the math easy. It doesn't seem pressurized to us because everything is at 15psi - standard atmospheric pressure. If you took that watch into outer space while stuck inside a skin tight balloon, and popped the stem (or otherwise compromised the structural integrity of the case), air would come rushing out to expand the balloon. If you can understand that -- everything else that follows will be simple. Personally, I have no use for a watch that isn't genuinely water resistant. I test all of mine: I think I can say with some confidance that the prevailing belief that reps are not waterproof is a holdover from the old days when they came with cardboard spacers and Timex movements. To test a watch, you put the watch in the device - feel free to use paperclips, or whatever you need to help suspend the watch if you prefer to leave the bracelet on. To start with, there is no reason to go overboard, so pump the pressure up to TWO of atmospheres. Now, if you are really following along, you would know that you have added two atmoshperes worth of pressure (30 PSI) to the cylinder outside the watch for a total pressure outside the watch of 45 PSI (since everything started at 15 psi). Now, LET THE WATCH HANG THERE A FEW MINUTES TO EQUALIZE IF IT IS GOING TO (Hopefully, it won't) If the watch equalized while up in the air, that means it is not airtight. In other words, and this is the part to understand, there was a small volume of air at normal atmospheric pressure inside the watch going into the chamber (say for example purposes on cubic inch of air at 15 PSI) If you add two atmospheres of pressure, you have tripled the pressure from 1 to 3, but if the watch is airtight, NOTHING happens inside. That's why men can spend forever in a submarine at significant depths with no decompression issues, but if the watch was an airtight balloon, you would watch it shrink to a third it's size which is exactly what you do see if you take a balloon down underwater about 66 feet. If the watch is not airtight, the pressure will equalize inside the watch and that means that the amount of air inside the watch will triple - three times the pressure means that three times the volume of air fits into the same space, so what we need to know is, do we have one cubic inch of air inside that one cubic inch case at 15 PSI, or three cubic inches of air at 45PSI. Lower the watch into the water. SLOWLY release the pressure -- did I say SLOWLY!!!!!! DO NOT - NOT - NOT dump the pressure. SLOWLY releasing the pressure releases the pressure on the enitre system - the air, the water, and the watch. As the pressure releases, NOTHING happens inside the airtight watch - like the men in the submarine, they don't know the difference. On the other hand, if our little experiment packed three cubic inches of air into a one cubic inch space, releasing the pressure makes that air want to come right back out. At this point, let me focus you on something - think about the inside of the watch case - including the space between the dial and the crystal. Even though the watch looks like it is pretty much filled up with a movement, there is still a LOT of airspace in there. If you take that volume and add twice that volume to it - twice the volume of airspace inside that watch is a LOT of air. When you release it, it isn't going to be a few bubbles. More on that later. If air come's pouring out of that watch as you are SLOWLY releasing the pressure -- DO NOT STOP. DO NOT STOP, but even more importantly, DO NOT - NOT - NOT let the pressure go to zero. NO, NO, NO, NO, NO! Pull that watch up out of the water while the pressure is slowly dropping and before it hits zero. IT MUST NOT GO TO ZERO while a leaky watch is under water becasue once the positive air pressure bleeds out, water can get in. No water can get in that leaky watch while the air pressure inside is bleeding out. Now, back to my point about volume. If you test your watches with bezels before reading this, you will report back that they all leak. Not so. When you pressurized the system, you did that by pumping in air. You stuffed three times the air into that system that was originally there so you pumped three times the air into the space beneath the bezel, where the lug holes are, etc that would be there without all that pressure. That little airbubble trapped under the bezel, or inside the lug hole, or wherever, is going to expand to three times its size as the pressure released and as it does, it won't fit there anymore. In other words, a few little bubbles are perfectly normal. Remember, when you pump in six atmospheres of pressure, you are compressing all the air inside that cylinder, forcing every space to hold seven times as much air as it held to start with. That is a HUGE differential. Watch the springbars and you will see bubbles coming from them, as well as from under the bezel, lug holes, from the underside of lugs . . . anywhere a tiny bubble could cling. When that bubble gets seven times as large, it will float up. Believe me, when seven times the vollume of air normally inside a watch case comes rushing out, nobody will have to tell you it leaked. If it passes just fine at two atm, repeat the process at five or six. You will find that any of the better quality reps does just fine. Good luck, Bill
    1 point
  5. Mike is a guy I always had a lot of time for and at one point put his name forward as an Admin team member. 2 years ago Mike was diagnosed with multiple myeloma cancer a condition that is not curable. The City of Hope paid for a bone marrow transplant (over 1 million dollars) which has give Mike some more time. Understandably Mike has all but dropped out of the replica watch scene now but what he does to help keep his mind off the constant pain is make pens, very nice ones too, take a look at his eBay store.... http://www.ebay.com/usr/penzrus I am currently trying to help him (along with our good friend offshore) to locate Rolex dials, Mike has a guy who can bend dials and watch parts to fit around a pen casing which he then resins over. If you are looking for a pen please take the time to look through what he offers. Ken
    1 point
  6. hm....well.....what....ah yes.....buy......me.......one of these............
    1 point
  7. How about one of these? Accurate quartz with no running seconds. Get a real good quality horween shell strap to go with it
    1 point
  8. That's pretty hard, how old is your mother? I wouldn't think that she would like one of the new modern 40-42mm models I would look for a Lady Datejust, possibly a mid size one that's around 34mm. Check with the dealers here, I'm sure you can find one. If it has a decent mechanical movement, the second sweep will be the same as the genuine.
    1 point
  9. It seems to me that whilst someone in Omega recognised this as a big advancement in escapements, changing just this is only a small step in the evolution of the movement as a whole. And sadly, the marketing people have heard about it and are blowing the (real) advantages out of all proportion, e.g. the "Co-Axial" movement branding, etc. So the co-axial excapement itself is real and a brilliant idea, the advertising and Omega marketing crap surrounding it is stupid.
    1 point
  10. Modern oils should last 7 years. We're not far off 10 years and probably nanotechnology will bridge that gap. You could say the Daniels was far ahead in his design than current lubrication technology can handle. But the point of my original post is that I don't understand why you think the coaxial escapement is a gimmick and that we would be better off without it? It reduces friction and Wear, increases accuracy and longevity of the balance components. Daniels and Roger Smith both design(ed) for longevity, robustness, ease of maintenance as well as optimising the technology. Modern computer aided design has come a long way in designing mechanical watches. But those end pieces remain hugely expensive and impractical for general use. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
    1 point
  11. Packing for the outing, maybe a few to many. New never worn still in the box stock! Oops forgot one now where is the Squale, still in the box somewhere.................. PS the good stuff in the metal carriers. Cigars.........................
    1 point
  12. I can pretty much order any Boch nib you need, this is not a problems. I have I think 3 fountains posted, and I sold one already... I will check out your advise. And i have to agree with you totally about one day at a time~ I am not a depressed person... Thanks for the kind advice, Michael
    1 point
  13. And dirt cheap to replace!
    1 point
  14. Mike, . Every day is a new day and chose to live each as you did during the happiest times in you life - One day at a time !!!! Any plans to do any fountain pens that can take a #5 or #6 nibs. I bet they would sell like hot cakes over at fountainpennetwork.com. If you just would do one I would buy one.
    1 point
  15. Hey Mike wish you well. I lost my grandmother to cancer. Just wanted to share with you a film I recently saw that is very encouraging "Dying to have known" please watch it and stay in the fight! I'll be praying for you.
    1 point
  16. I bought from Andrew at Trusty Time, shipped from Hong Kong to Glasgow in 5 days via FedEx. No problems at all. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
    1 point
  17. Mate any of the dealers shipp without issue to UK.... Also some dealers will replace if item doesnt arrive....due to shipping or customs.. The real question I would suggest is dealer feedback and price.... but any dealers in our TD section can source what ever you are looking for. Dont get me wrong there is a risk in shipping...but the UK is probably the least risk within EU... As its your first why not just stick with Angus, Josh or Andrew...if you want to save some money and contact dealers direct with what you want like Supermirrors or WI etc you will save some money on watch and shipping... Also depends how you plan to pay as some vary in payment methods.... like CC, PP, WU etc etc But simply just pick one from the list below in TD section.... There are all TDs for a reason mate
    1 point
  18. I will be married four years in September, complements of eHarmony. We rarely have a bad day. Just take your time and have realistic expectations (don't settle and don't expect the first one to be the "one"). It does work
    1 point
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