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Here are some thoughts I feel inclined to post. Please feel free to add yours. While the noob watch themselves have been highly touted for some time now, the movement itself leaves a lot to be desired per my recent encounters. I looked around for a review of the Asia 2813 by The Zigmeister but I could not find one. Please feel free to post it if I overlooked it. I have made 3 "noob" recommendations over the past few weeks. My word on the line, I am concerned that I have made a mistake by suggesting that these are inexpensive great "out of the box" watches. Most of my referals may not notice rehaut thickness, but a watch that stops keeping time, that they will notice. Here are some specifics: -The rotor is very loud. It vocally "clicks" in one direction, (this direction is assumingly winding the watch). When spun the opposite direction, some sort of built up energy seems to be releasing itself as the rotor spins on, and on, and on... for all to hear! "Is my watch supposed to make loud grinding noises?" "Why is that watch making so much noise?".. Not good. Not expected. -The power reserve is, well, nill. Once or twice a day, the watch will just stop. -The date change position slips. The crown needs to be pushed in, then the date position reingaged to continue to change the date. - The movement will stop when the crown is fully screwed down. This can be fixed by trimming the stem. - The hack feature does not work on one of them. So what to do? I'm not a watchsmith, but i'm slowly becoming one, as I seem to be "fixing" so many of my watches. I've resigned myself to the fact that I must immediately turn my focus towards puprchasing course materials and take the timezone watch school. Maybe then I will feel confident with movement upgrades for these watches. On that, I hope the DG movement is the direction we should be heading in, and is a serviceable movement with parts availability. Comments on this are encouraged. I would also like to know what genuine ETA movement is a direct replacement to the Asian2813, if any. Answer- 2836-2 Something else to note, the beat is 21K, not 28K.. Most of you know this. This is not disclosed, most noob watch descriptions simply states Asian 2813 movement. This flaw is as visibly noticeable as any other though, if not more. A lot of you know this information already, but there are people that come here to learn what we do not already know. If this post helps someone in the future, then my efforts were not a waste. I do not see these as long term reliable engines. I hope this thread helps answer some questions our "noobs" might be wondering.

Hi guys, Here is the beautiful Panerai Luminor Marina 111 with a Noob V3 case and H Dial. A6497 movement with correct Y-incablok on a Donerix cracked brown leather strap. I hope you enjoyed the pictures and again a big shout out to MOAB!

Hoot hoot!

The 16610 sub is the most popular model and it seems everyone has a TC sub these days. The one thing that I like to do is to swap a gen crystal. I recently purchased a Clark crystal to try it out as the previous clark crystal was 2.0mm which is not gen spec anymore for the modern sub. This new version is 1.8mm. That means you can replace a gen crystal or a TC crystal and the height of the crystal will be the same afterwards. The edges of the glass are well polished. The date mag appears excellent, not overly magnified. Clarity is great. Cyclops is applied well and level and is in the correct position. I think this is a good alternative to the gen style subs where the rep LEC is too pronounced or there are other concerns about the rep crystal. Nothing beats a gen but this is real close. I tried to label the pics, clark crystal is set to date 24, gen is set to 28, gen is always on the left with 2 crystals in the picture. To keep things fair, both crystals are mounted on the same gasket which happens to be a 2.7mm gasket in this case. The date mags are really close. For those who dont know, Clark is a respected seller on ebay, I have no relation to the seller http://stores.ebay.com/clarkwatchparts/

Hi Everyone, Just finished my first all Asian 127 and "E" movement for a fellow rep. enthusiast. As always the movements are based on the Noob movement and watch. I have built out many all Asian 111 and 112s, but these are my first E movement builds. I am building more of these now a days since the ETA components are getting harder to get and more and more expensive. Here are the pictures, all components on the watch are Asian and modded to look gen. Thanks for looking......

Just got wind of this last night so I'm really late to the party but wondered if anyone had seen this and what your thoughts are on it, looks bloody awesome to me and having a couple of Steinhart in the box already I know the brand is great quality for the price too The run is sold out as of now but I've managed to get my name down in case anyone 'flakes' on the deal What do you think............ http://forums.watchuseek.com/f275/steinhart-aramar-arctic-ocean-802735.html http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&drKey=242&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.watchuseek.com%2Ff275%2Fsteinhart-aramar-arctic-ocean-802735.html&v=1&libid=1363782441189&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aramar.nl%2Findex.php%3Fitem%3D%26action%3Darticle%26group_id%3D35%26aid%3D515%26lang%3DEN&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.watchuseek.com%2Ff275%2Fsteinhart-aramar-arctic-ocean-802735-7.html&title=Steinhart%20by%20Aramar%20Arctic%20Ocean&txt=Steinhart%20by%20Aramar%20Arctic%20Ocean&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13637829651063

This is a rep because: radiation signis off, plus there should be a cross on radiation sign; hands are wrong; bezel number shape is wrong (the shape of '3'); bezel is not raised, the texture is also wrong; 'Aqua lung' should be raised from dial in sliver colour, this one is not; Lume looks very cheap and not aged; 'SWISS MADE T<25MC' is wrong, Aqua Lung version should only have 'SWISS MADE'.

ok. I'll say it, I don't think you're ready to buy. I suggest you hold off until you know exactly what you want before plopping down $5k. You just went through 3 eras of 5513's in the span of a few hours. Yes, all three, in their own way are beautiful, but ask yourself what you really want and why. Is there any significance for you for a '89 5513 over a '67 meters first or vice versa? Maybe pick your birth year and go from there. Once you decide, scour the earth looking for the right one. You will appreciate the hunt alot more.

Read again. Focus your pupils on "around here". All I can say is that I don't know AJ personally, but I have dealt with him several times without problems. Perhaps you're the cheap fella, since you're the one with -3 feedback

popped up or popped out?

Just. Showing how it compares to the 44mm gp Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

oh and with the AP on your wrist the chicks will think your da man and you can forget the username entirely as it'll be all rubbers from then on ! sorry guys but the post was a classic GOLD GOLD GOLD

The TC V6 is what you are looking for by the way.

I found the DSSD to be way too big. The Sea-Dweller is just right. The BPSD is a hell of a good watch with a little bit of work: I added a gen crown , Clark's hands and a TC bracelet to mine.

Welcome! We've all been there. At first the cheap ones look perfect. Then you read the forum reviews and the flaws become glaring. You keep upgrading to the ultimates, supers, 1:1 and still not good enough. Next you're buying gen inserts, gen dials, gen bracelets and you're in for thousands of dollars. Crazy but quite fun. Enjoy the ride, mate.

Mymanmatt will be able to guide you Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

Mike, You can pull this one off with ease!! If the rubber strap doesn't work, a nice black Donerix hornback, regular Caiman or gator, or shark would look super. I heard he just caught a 12 foot gator , so he should have a hide long enough to make your strap how thick is ur wrist in inches? would you recommend it for someone with a 6.7 inch wrist? Don't worry son, just keep doing what your name implies, and you will soon have a man size wrist, just got to learn to use your left hand!!

Today feels right from some Fiddy on limited edition Gunny leather

Email the dealer you purchased from. Explain what broke, and include a picture. Ask to buy a replacement part. Chances are, they can help.

Can always buy a second watch of the rep that you deem a keeper, for nothing else it'll serve as a donor for spare parts when the first one breaks. Otherwise put up a WTB ad and see what you get...

That is the BP version. Noob doesn't make that strap version yet. Looks great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More pics pleeease! This is one of my next reps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I say redo it or have someone with the right tools do it for you. When I install these crystal retainers I always place the case upside down as it helps to keep the o-ring where it needs to be. Don't skimp on new gaskets and greasing o-rings. This always ensures that you're going to have better chances at water sealing.

Hey all, Thought I'd put some feelers out here to gauge interest on which vintage rollie dials are in demand. I'm a graphic designer by day and am considering trying my hand at replicating (to a high degree) several vintage dials. What are some dials you guys would like to see/need to improve?

Hello guys! I am the modder who aged that

I still have 2 rep bought in 1995 and they are working perfectly! But they are quartz! The other 5 automatic are long gone like my gen Omega fropm 1997 (it sits in a drawer with a broken movement because I dont feel paying 370EUR=470USD to repair it - repair or service costing almost 50% of a watch that is mad) I am now buying only reps in quartz and find it a pity that not all the models are available in quartz.

There are NO SWISS ETA movements available to the replica industry!!!!!!!.....The only thing you might get is some tired clunker salvaged from a 20 year old off branded POS.... :bangin: :bangin: :bangin: :bangin: :bangin: :bangin: