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This is after the model sold in the UK in the 60s. Case full reshape -done a while ago- and viet bracelet repolished as it should

5517 MilSub. A very difficult to build to get right on a budget. Here’s my recipe below, by no means perfect: Cartel midcase and back WSO bezel assembly Phong insert Yuki pearl Ingod44 dial Mixed handset, second hand tail trimmed Gen T19 service crystal Gen 703 crown Gen ETA 2846 movement Phoenix NATO Admiralty grey strap, original supplier to MOD

DW made some of the best cases !!! Pushers are really nice and bezel is fairly accurate. Gen T21 and gen coronet, reshaped case and athaya crown. Cool summer piece !!!

Thanks! Yes, quite right. It’s an older build and ingod44 hasn’t been around for 2-3 years now. Agree with you about the tip of the second hand, it could be better. There’s an ETA second hand from Rafflestime with a more pointed tip (minute hand is wrong in this set though). http://rafflestime.com/submariner-milsub-seamaster-300-watch-hands-for-eta-2824-2836-sword-yellow/ All the second hands I’ve seen need the tail trimmed too. Which is a bit of a pain to say the least! Ruby’s 5517 dial is pretty good. The Tritium T slightly too bold perhaps: http://rubyswatch.com/Products/replacement-parts/sub-5517 MQ good but pricy: http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=800&category_id=146&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

"Anyone have any experience with any/all of these dials and care to comment?" Your comment about the numbers being too close to the outer edge of the dial made me look at my stash of 1016 dials. Here is what I found: All three of my nos 1016 dials (two tritium from the 1980s/early 1990s and one Luminova dial with tritium marks from when rolex bought Beyeler Dial Co and started making their own dials, some were Luminova with tritium markings. Each one has about 1/2 the length of the marker of space between the 3-6-9 markers and the numbers. All three are identical except for one being Luminova. The numbers have a smooth, even surface, not rough or chalky. All have been stored in the original dial tins in an air conditioned house. The lume color has not changed as far as I can tell. The dates reflect when I got them, not when they were made. When you look at them under bright light with medium magnification they do not appear to be much better than higher grade replica dials except for the exceptional lume application. Three replica dials that I got from 'Stilty' about 10 years ago (two unused and one mounted a few times, now on my JMB project watch), have smaller numbers and about half a marker of space between the number and marker like the genuine dials. The numbers are a hair smaller than on the genuine dials and have a rougher finish. The letters are Ok but not as crisp as the genuine dials. I give them a 7 on a 10 scale, 10 being a new genuine dial. Do not know where they came from originally. One new dial of unknown origin that looks very good with marker/number spacing close to genuine. It has very good letters and slightly yellowed markers. I would give it 8 on a 10 scale in appearance when compared to a genuine dial. It is quite a bit better than the three 'Stilty' dials. I got it from an RWG member in Stockholm Sweden, January 2013. A 7 out of 10 rating may be a bit high for the 'Stilty' dials but 6 just seems too low for them. Most of the reproduction dials are good enough for me. I would call the 'Stilty' dials 'Eta project dials' and the unknown dial from Sweden a '1570 dial'. Anyone says your dial is not quite right, tell them you would like to compare it to their '1016' dial. The reproduction dials are for projects but why would I have nos dials? Because I thought I might find a new or like new case, but never did. Some Beyeler dial info: https://rwg.cc/topic/132084-mythbusters/