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Didnt been here for ages. It seems very quiet here. Anyway, hello everyone

Hey guys, some of you may still know me, I once was a pretty active member here and I also bought and sold about 50 reps in a couple of years in this hobby. Well at some point I wasn't really interested anymore... dived deep into my other hobby photography, bought an Apple Watch... (yeah I know lol). I haven't been online here for around 9 years I think. Now of course I know absolutely nothing anymore about the rep market. I do have some nice old models though that were bangers when I bought them and I wonder if they still have some value now. For example the original Noob GMT Master II, the IWC Ingy from around 12 years back, the Submariner that was hyped so much... I don't even know where it was from anymore, I'll have to check old emails, maybe I find something. So does it still make sense to sell those old models, or is everything much better now? Cheers W.

Kienzle Atlantis Mechanique wristie with two in the background, all with Unitas (now ETA) 6497, all 'nos' from the early to mid 1990s. The two in the background are in original condition with MG crystals and leather straps. I put a 34.5mm sapphire crystal and 22mm Breitling type bracelet on the other one about 20 years ago. They are 44mm wide not counting the crown. Nos Arnex 'train watch' with Unitas 6497 from 1970s/1980s... The Arnex is 16 size same as modern RR pocket watches, but not RR Approved. They were often referred to as 'Transportation Watches'. https://www.txantiquemall.com/the-arnex-pocket-watch-history-values-and-vintage-models/ J3 is automatico.

Wearing the 116710LN --

NOS Mido, probably from the 1970s, not sure, I've had it 20 or 25 years. Have a later model nos stainless Mido and the crown is missing, can't find one. It has a cork gasket in it. A watch trader gave it to me, box and all, because he could not find a crown. Cork! Don't know what this one has for a gasket on the 'hidden crown'. Kryptonite probably. NOS Universal Geneve Polerouter, vintage Omega wind-up, '100 jewel' Waltham (with 17 jewel auto movement). They sorta fibbed about 100 jewels...but it has enough jewels mounted all over the winding rotor, movement spacer etc. to make 100. Have not found the MIA Bulova Beau Brummel yet. It is slow going... Box with the TAG Heuer has all NOS watches, box to the right is all pocket watches, bottom box is misc. watches. Someday I'll take a 'watch family' picture. J3 is automatico.

Digging through this pile looking for something... Found these... L to R...Benrus Citation, Seth Thomas Stingray (the crown at 3 turns the countdown track), and an Aquadive. All from the 1970s, all original. Watch at the bottom is a Favre - Leuba 'Harpoon 88'. Also found two Caravelle '666' divers, one in 90% condition and one same as new. Wristie... Zodiac Sea Wolf from the 1960s. Looking for what? Bulova Beau Brummel in 14K YG, have a pair, one YG and one WG, the YG one is MIA. No luck, still MIA... J3 is automatico

Rhapsody Royale in 14K gold... Low mileage manual wind 'water resistant' 34mm front loader, all original . Bought in May 2003 for $100USD without a strap. Looked on eBay for Rhapsody watches, all are lady models. Here is one on 'Timekeepers' with sub seconds: https://www.timekeepersclayton.com/product/14k-rhapsody-royale-wrist-watch-with-swiss-movement/ J3 is automatico

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Like Freddy said, diameter is not the best metric here. I had a genuine 37mm Tudor BB54 and it was AWFULLY unbalanced and heavier than a 14060/16610. Also, I have had 39mm watches with Lug-to-Lug's in excess of 50mm. Precious metal like the Blue White Gold Submariner weighs more as well. That said, a neo-vintage Sub like the 14060 on a hollow 93150 braclet is probably the best option if you can go Gen. --- or find an ARF 16610 and swap to a 93150 with Hollow links... Otherwise, look into Titanium or Carbon cases. I just picked up the VSF NTTD v5 (all Ti) Bond Seamaster and is like I am not wearing a watch! Good luck.

Thanks @freddy333 yeah, trying to boost engagement here-- and most of the old The Zigmeister 2010'era stuff is either broken links or not worth the dig. 🙂

Tri- Wiz Watches... L to R 855/1000, 404/1000, 25/1000. All NOS. J3 is automatico.

Wearing the Big Kahuna --

It was the Biggest rivalry, Green vs Blue at the Champions Trophy (Cricket) today! Sent from my SM-S921B using Tapatalk

I have been digging through what my wife calls 'the watch junkyard' trying to find a particular watch and have not found the lost watch yet, but have found a lot of 'watchjunk' I had forgotten about. I do not work on a genuine Rlx watch very much now, so much of this 'junk' had been forgotten. So...from time to time I will post a pic or two of forgotten 'watchjunk' etc. Q...Why? A1...Because RWC decided to stop selling parts to knaves like me and I am glad to find this 'junk'. A2...The forum has slowed down so I'll post something now and then. Found this yesterday... A few clasps and straps...now 'nos'. Ha! Note the 'Tooter' clasp and dive extension. Did not know I had them. The DJ clasp marked 'same as new 'came off of a new bracelet. The 14K gold filled bracelet from the empty box went out on a 1550 or 15505 OPD. One of the straps has a 'swimpruf' tag on it and it is not made the same as the other one so I assume it is water resistant. Who knows? Jimythree is automatico.

Welcome home. If your old reps please you, then there is nothing to do but enjoy them. If not, then you may find some of the recent 'super clone' reps a worthwhile upgrade. As I discovered 2 years ago after my own hibernation from the hobby, the rep world has definitely advanced from where it was even 10 years ago. You might check out some of my recent GMT 116710LN or Daytona 1165xx threads to see how much the state of the art of reps has progressed. I can tell you that it has truly been an eye opening experience for me. & a very pleasurable & costly 1.

Thank you for your answers. Yeah you're right of course, my question was a bit general... I will take some photos of my remaining reps and I will definitely need your help to identify them as I forgot almost everything lol. I only remember they were expensive and good around 10 years ago. 😉

Welcome back forum friend.... Well...your question is not easy to answer. It must be said that for certain models they no longer make replicas...and therefore it is not always a good idea to resell them. For more recent models, new manufacturers have appeared, with copies of the movements as well. The prices are therefore even more exaggerated. For example, I have a Pam 286 made by Noob that I don't think is in production anymore. So you have to see exactly which models yours are.

Very nice work! The Railmaster vibe is spot on! Have a great weekend too 😊

That’s a beauty! What is it?

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Wearing 1 of my Subs today --

Added 11-03-2020: Revere: "Wow, an ingod dial. Haven't heard that name in a minute" (from a recent '5513' sales thread). https://rwg.cc/topic/196303-fs-donerix-5513/ I added an address to a thread on Ingod44 dials so if anyone wants to add IG44 dials to this nostalgia fest, feel free. Since just about all of my replicas are older models with the majority of them being vintage styles, they are just about all I know much about. Many members have been around as long or longer than I have so maybe there is still quite a bit of oldie replica stuff left. My newest replica is a 'noobmariner' F520117 so you can see I am stuck in the past. Wrong...have one 214270 'new explorer' somewhere, saw it last spring. Original post: Just for fun, list the vintage rolex MBW/MBK submariner type watches you own and a short note on modifications. Q...Why? A...Since they are no longer being made and are 'World Famous Classic Replicas' it would be nice to see how many are still floating around RWG. I know the Vnam etc. cases have eclipsed them in accuracy to genuine...numbers/lettering/minor details etc. but I doubt the Vnam etc. examples will surpass MBW/MBK in production numbers (no way to tell) and probably never sell at MBW/MBK prices back when they were available. Mine... Two 1680 from Reggie 6 or 7 years ago. One unworn, same as new. One also unworn with the case modified to accept a 26.5mm 1680 dial...the 26.0mm dial and 2836 have been removed. The complete watch has swisseta 2836, the other one had a 2836 etaclone. One 5512 from an RWG member a few years ago. Now has a recently c/o nos ETA 2879 with the MBK dial, ST case tube/bezel kit, GS crystal, 'Mary' foldoyster, genuine crown. Had 1570/Yuki dial for a while. Forgot if the original movement was swiss or clone. One 5513 unworn, same as new from a member a few years back...one of the last batch of MBK from 'Rolexfinder'. Movement unknown, never opened it. One 5513 from a member a few years back. Put a 1520 in it for a while. Now an empty case with ST case tube/bezel kit, GS crystal. Iirc it came with an etaclone 2836. Bonus 1: List vintage DW 'submariner' cases/watches if anyone still has one. They were Hot for a year or two and made pretty good 1680 projects. I have a few new, empty DW cases from 10+ years back plus one with a 1570 and original Mk I Lemrich 1680 dial. I needed a container to store the movement/dial in and the DW case worked fine, everything fits. I sanded one case down to thin the lugs and was going to make a vintage project watch of some sort but never finished it. Never decided to cut the CG off or not either. I could make an oversized vintage 'explorer' or something with a 26.5 to 27mm dial and ETA 28xx etc. Added 11-3-20: Bonus 2...Ingod44 dials...anyone still have one in a watch or stored away? They were pretty good back when available. Last one I bought was in July 2013 and it was from an RWG member. Do not know when IG44 went out of business but the dial from July 2013 is a 'comex 5513' and the last one I bought directly from IG44 is a regular 5513 dial. I wrote the date down for the '5513 comex' but not the 5513, I got it a year or two earlier iirc. I had not looked at them for a few years and was surprised at how good they are. cornerstone: "I haven't worn my most expensive watch in ages." Me neither. The MBK '5512' is what I would wear if I wanted the 'high $$' look. IG44 thread from 2012, there is a very good pic from Akira of an IG44 '5513' dial like mine in the thread. 9-7-2023 Still have the MBK '5512' that I have worn more than any other MBK. It has an ETA 2879 that started out nos and still runs fine, but the autowinding is not as efficient as newer 2824/36 etc. I need to dig it out and wear it.

My old PO! Genuine... Dial, Hands, Bezel assembly, Bezel insert, He Valve, Tube, Crown, Date Wheel, Bracelet is gen, but is 1589, not 1580, however the end links are 952. which is correct.

recent grab- suprisingly nice

Only the (modded) mid-case is MBW

Gilt Sub Hands... Most people put effort into their case, then the dial, the movement and the hands become an after thought. I have always thought that the dial and Mercedes hands are KEY elements and key "tells" on any vintage build budget or high end. There are so many myths surrounding what is correct, good, accepted in this world and I find learning this stuff as frustrating as everyone else, I have had to learn this stuff through trial and error (and error, and error). I get asked the question all the time when I post builds about what hands were used and read all the time "what hands are best" etc. etc. and finding a definitive answer is near on impossible because everyone says something different. I thought it was time to dispel some myths and help a whole mass of people out by showing these hands side by side. So here we go... Every hand set that I have, laid out next to each other, and all photographed to the same scale, next to a gen reference set (not my photo)... It should be noted that some of these have been aged and/or damaged, some are as delivered. Gen Hands I tried to make some general points about the gen hands, some rules that we want to get close to Points *1 - The second hand should have a tapered end The lollipop should have the same size of the base of the hour hand and be roughly twice the width of the minute hand *2 The walls of the hour hand shaft should be almost half the thickness of the lume plot The height of the shaft should be slightly SHORTER than the diameter of the Mercedes sign *3 - The diam of the Mercedes sign should be roughly a third bigger than the base *4 - The size of the Mercedes lume plot should be as big as the diameter of the hole (however the hole sizes differ, gen is 0.8 and ETA is 0.95mm) *5 - The length of the "point" should be more than half the diameter of the Mercedes sign and a third of the width at the base *6 - The distance from the hole to the start of the lume plot on the minute hand should be short *7 - As with the hour hand the walls of the minute hand shaft should be almost half the thickness of the lume plot *8 - The distance from the end of the lume plot to the start of the point should be small, approx 2x the width of the side wall There are more observations that can be made but these are the main ones. All Together The comparison candidates - Left to Right 1. Gen reference. It is important to say that this is a reference image and is not my photo. I have scaled this to an approximate same size as the other based on knowing the size of the hour hand hole (. compared to the other ETA (.95) 2. HR New - 2015 these are the replacement hands that HR currently have, the minute hand is not long for their oversized dial. However the hour hand is better than the older ones. 3. HR OLD - circa 2014. The minute hand is long for the HR oversized dial and the dimensions to a gen minute hand are almost perfect. A MUST for an oversized dial. (HR is apparently getting these back in stock but this is unconfirmed at time of writing) 3. Clarks Tudor Sub hands for ETA 2015 - These new hands are excellent and in fact probably the best of all for a very reasonable price $20 USD inc shipping 4. Tiger Concept (OnlineStoreHK). These are the clear looser, terrible in fact. Only buy these for the lollipop second hand if MY is out of stock. 5. Michael Young (Classic Watch Repair CWR) - An excellent set of hands that comes with 2 lollipop second hands, a gilt one and a white one. These hands have an excellent finish but the edges are not sharp and the lume job is terrible and hanging over the edge of the hands. At $65 + $28 Shipping these are the most expensive hands here and I would say, from a shape perspective, only slightly better than the $20 Clarks hands. It should also be noted that the hands shown are for a gen movement, not ETA. But MY used to stock these for ETA but he was out of stock when I asked. 6. Clarks Vintage Sub hands for 157x - I am including these because i have them, I struggled to broach these and ended up bending them. A good shape but now superseded by his Tudor Sub hands for ETA builds. Hour Hands Minute Hands Conclusion I hope it is clear to see that many of these hands are "wrong" not close to vintage sub hands AT ALL. The Tiger concept hands are in last place, however, these come with a lollipop second hand. The winners are Clarks and Michael Young if you don't want a lillipop second hand Clarks is the hands down winner. But it must be noted that by the time you buy a set of Clarks Tudor Sub hands and a set of Tiger's to get a lollipop second hand, you are basically at the same price as the MY hands (if he has them in ETA) An additional note must be made for HR "oversized" dials, for this dial there really is only 1 minute hand, the old HR hand as it will correctly reach the chapter ring on the dial as it should. PLEASE NOTE, I am talking solely about vintage early sub GILT hands here. By the time we get into 5513s particularly the silver hands and most definitely the later ones, the design of the hands has changed very slightly. Many of the gilt hands from the 5512 and early 5513 appear to be the same as the "6538" or "50-60s" era hands I am comparing, maybe these were old stock at the time?. But as the years move forward it is easy to see changes in particular the side walls of the hands get thicker, so if you are doing those builds this reference will not hold up. I hope this helps and means you don't have to buy all of the damned hands that I have bought Kime

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