tomhorn

I used TC's on my build. IMO they are the most accurate aftermarket Mercedes style hands.

Haven't worn this one for awhile.

Best way to find something at a reasonable price on the Bay is to search for listings where the seller doesn't know what they have. Anything listed with Valjoux 72, V72 etc, will always go for more money than they should. I put a bunch of information in my build thread to help people find those "under the radar" donors.

Try doing a search for 1016 builds. There is a complete parts list for mine in my build thread (for example), but there are many ways to do them. Just depends on how much you want to spend.

To get you started, I would specifically look for threads that talk about JMB's cases and bezels.

6 hours ago, kamalog2014 said:

And whhere i can buy a trusty perfect rep watches ?

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You can't. Period.

They all have flaws.

Can't say I'm a fan of the new Activity and Unread Content layouts. Hopefully those are things you are looking at.

The 1680 hands were tritium, so in this case you probably have an original seconds hand and service replacement hour and minute hands. It's up to you as to what you want to do with them. I would either re-lume them to match, but I would keep the second hand as-is and have someone match the hour/minute hand, or send them back and find another set.

I had this happen when I bought my 6263. It went from NY to Washington (State) and then came to Florida.

The package was perfectly intact, and the address was easily readable and totally correct. Have no idea why it went to the west coast.

This is why you research a franken build BEFORE you buy your first part. There are tons of posts here about building franken Portuguese 3714's. I suggest you search and read up on them. The four questions you ask don't even scratch the surface of what you need to know. They are not easy builds unless you are using 100% genuine parts, and if you are doing that, you might just as well buy a gen at this point because the parts costs are steep now.

1) You'll know if they fit, and you can compare them to the pictures you see here. You can also post pictures here and people will let you know. I would be surprised that the case is gen, but a quick check is to compare the casebacks. The gens are finished differently than the reps. Also most reps have the fish logo'd crown. Rep crystals don't have AR normally, so that's a quick tell. On the dial, look at the number 6. If the lower loop of the 6 is intact, it's fake, as the gen slightly slices through it.

2) All genuine IWC parts are now scarce, not just the movements. This was a much easier build a couple of years ago. eBay, and the various rep message boards are a starting point, but you're going to have to search around and be patient.

3) The rep you buy as a base for the project will have a modified A7750 with the gearing to move the seconds to six already done. This movement has known longevity problems, which is why people go with a gen movement.

4) Scotch Watch is about your only option. http://www.scotchwatch.com/IWCparts.html

Because there isn't a good one with functioning chronos. With the 7750 case is too thick and the movement is a timebomb waiting to happen. If you want a semi-accurate and reliable modern Daytona without building a franken, the 21j is the best way to go.

DW's cases were not very consistent with regards to sizes, which may explain why some people didn't have issues. His older cases were better in this regard.

There are plenty of posts outlining what has to be done to a DW bezel to make it fit with a gen spec T-21. Here's one:

The gen spec T-21's are ever so slightly wider than the crystal DW used. You have to sand the inner diameter of the bezel to make it fit. It's worse on the 6265 (steel) bezel.

I read just fine.

+1

The old MBW bracelets were pretty good (if you can still find one) and Yuki's is probably the best option now IMO. I considered myself quite lucky to find an MBW for my 5514.

A little tough to tell from the pic, but it looks like a 16018 to me. Might be a 16238 if it was purchased in late 80's. You can obviously take the bracelet off to get the model number confirmed.

Assuming it's gen ... stop taking it diving! If you insist, have someone test it for waterproof before you do it again. A vintage watch of that age probably needs gaskets replaced.

Value is somewhere between $5k and $8k depending on model number and condition.

I would send it to member "misiekped" for service if you don't want to send it to Rolex.

http://www.scotchwatch.com/IWCparts.html

If the current movement is a 2836 then replace it with a 2836. If you go 2824, you will need to swap some parts and come up with a dial spacer to make everything fit properly.

Sorry about that ... well, kinda ....

In his other sales thread that was put on hold it was mentioned he had some family issues going on. Probably why he hasn't responded.

The dial is great, but it doesn't have feet.

Just as an FYI, iIf it's Watchaddict you are talking to, he can't sell you the silver dial because he sold it to me.

http://www.vintagewatchesmq.com/

Which version of a Rolex bracelet are you looking for?

For example, the TC 93250 is about as good as you'll find for a rep Oyster bracelet for a Sub. There really aren't any great 93150's, but the Yuki and the old MBW are your best options.

Riyi really is the best option for a rep Jubilee, but gens aren't that bad if you shop around a bit.

With Raffles or Riyi you just have to asked them for the "branded" version when you order. Riyi's are a bit better quality.

You can also check with member MyManMatt.

Old school day .... my first franken build.

Whoopy does excellent dials. If he takes the project on, I'm sure they will be done well. Here's his standard Explorer dial:

http://www.vintagewatchesmq.com/