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tomhorn

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Posts posted by tomhorn

  1. I was lucky to find an HH case for my build. Bought one of the last one's he had. I know HH had a lot of challenges to get where he did. It's really too bad that the project never came to fruition.

    The only potential availability of an HH case I have seen that was not already built into a franken was hinted at by member "altesporsche" in a thread back in January. Have no idea if he sold it during that thread, or has done anything with it. Otherwise, at this point you're out of luck.

    As for what to do now, there are only three viable options. Phong, Yuki and MBW. Phong's cases are easily the best, but is also the most money. Yuki's are better than the MBW case, but with either of those, you are going to have to do some case re-shaping in order to get them to look better. Personally, I wouldn't even attempt a 5514 build now without having the budget for a Phong case. Sure, you'll spend less with Yuki or the MBW, but then you'll have the added re-shaping costs and they still won't be as good anyway.

    This is why the first order of business when deciding to build a franken is doing the research and coming up with the plan. It's critical to do this before buying the first part. Otherwise you can end up with a few parts, and no way to finish the project, or an end cost that's way more than you wanted to spend. Far better to figure out ahead of time what items are going to be the toughest to find, so you can start with them first.

    As you've found, with the 5514, it's the case. For a 1016, it's the dial. The list goes on ...

  2. ^^ well said DTM ... :)

    From spending all the time I have on the forum over the years, if you throw out the would be poseurs who just want a fake watch to fool their friends and colleagues with, I see a regular progression during people's tour through our hobby on the various message boards. The trend I seem to see a lot of in people is:

    1) Bought a few reps to start. Mostly of the 1:1 or very good quality variety.

    2) Interest in "modding" begins.

    3) Plateau reached.

    4) Move from "modding" to building frankens.

    5) Plateau reached.

    6) Selling off of the project watches.

    7) Purchase of gens.

    8 ) Return to #4.

    I am at step #5 myself. Went through building several frankens, and haven't felt the energy to do much new for a bit.

  3.  

    7 hours ago, rka said:

    One more question: are the tc sub hands v2 fine or do i have to look for the v1?

    Neither are "perfect" so you can go with either.

    Having said that, IMO the v1 hands are a bit flatter, and thus closer to gen for the 5514. You can also use Clark's or Yuki's.

  4. 4 minutes ago, pam007 said:

    sucks you're having this problem. 
    I have always admired your build.

    You can always go gen.   switch out the 1530 for a 1520 and get this case:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-70s-ROLEX-Submariner-5513-case-parts-NICE-/391407581554?hash=item5b21b5b972:g:le4AAOSwZ8ZW6HDo

    Kinda boring but everyone does it eventually. 

     

    Looks like that seller broke up an entire 5513. He's selling off all the parts but the dial.

  5. Interesting. Will have to update my notes. Thanks!

    I used an ETA 2846 in my HH case. It's 5.22mm and worked OK. Can see why the OP's watchmaker is saying things aren't aligned properly.

    IIRC the 2846/2836 is what HH designed the case for, but I know dbane and fitch (maybe others) built 5514's with a 1520 and HH case. Maybe there's a trick to getting everything to line up?

  6. Getting an HH case will be next to impossible. I'd be surprised if there were any left out there that haven't already been used for a build. There weren't that many to begin with.

    If you don't want to go Phong, then your next best bet is probably to contact Rolexfinder and see if he has any of the MBW cases left.

    Your other option is Yuki. I think the caseback is better than the MBW (though still not great), but it's also more expensive.

    http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6924997/7292167.htm

     

     

  7. 17 hours ago, jmb said:

    The cannon pinion has nothing to do with the sweep hand fitting on IT'S pin unless the cannon pinion is so high the tip of the second wheel is below the cannon pinion and the sweep hand tube can't reach it.  In your pictures that is not the case.  Maybe you got a sweep hand with a Rolex or a21j size tube?

    I was referring to this part of the OP .... "The hour hand is rubbing the dial". You could be right about the hands not being for a 2824.

  8. I don't see mention of what case is being used, but the hand height rubbing issue is probably related to using a 2824-2 movement without the H4 canon pinion setup.

    It's also not a good choice from a beat perspective, but if the OP doesn't mind then it's just a matter of getting that corrected and the hands will be at the right height.

     

  9. There are many other build threads. I used a 16014 case which is why my build thread will be helpful if you want to use a gen case.

    Having said that, JMB's cases are excellent, and if I didn't have the gen case sitting around, I would have gone that route.

    The dial has always been the difficult part of these builds. Good one's are hard to come by these days.

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