tomhorn

2 hours ago, Mike_G said:

Thanks for the reply. It’s been awhile since I’ve been active can you elaborate on “Mary’s 7836”

I think she goes by Mary Watch now, but used to be Watch International. She is a TD here. Many of us have bought her 7836 for 1016's. For the money it's hard to beat.

I coupled it with 580 endlinks from WSO on my 1016, but I used a gen 16014 case. Not sure if they are the best for a JMB, although I'm sure someone here will know.

1 hour ago, Mike_G said:

Where did you get the bracelets? I may sell my Explorer build, but if not, I want to put a steel bracelet on it.

Mary's 7836 is the best value for the money.

Must admit I am dealing with mostly vintage Rolex builds, so not always in tune with knowing all the factories. Having said that, I don't recall ever hearing of anything called "NY Factory".

Regardless, you never buy a watch directly from the factory, you buy it through a dealer. We have a number of trusted dealers here that can normally get access to anything.

If you want to clarify what you are looking for (specific watch) you might get some more help, or better yet, do a search for the model you are looking for. There will likely be posts that will point you toward the best version for that particular model.

Good luck with your search!

I don't know much about these to know if it's any good or not, but Ruby does have one posted. Assume it's a Viet dial on a Singer plate.

http://rubyswatch.com/products/t1-|-vintage-|-monte-carlo-|-dial-1641

Hasn't been around for a while. 

1 hour ago, Lo' said:

1) Therefore what you're basically telling me is that there actually is no good modder on RWG? This is not good...

Well, Cwazy was on RWI ...  

I've heard that misiekped does lume here in the US although I haven't used him personally for lume. Have used him for movement service and builds, and he's great. However, since I notice you are across the pond, I'd go with Domi based on the reviews I've seen of his work.

6 hours ago, Lo' said:

Hi all, been away from this great forum for too long therefore here I am back again.

First of all thanks a lot for sharing extensive knowledge on this post. Since I am currently waiting for a cheap 1016 build to reach my door (A2824, Yuki dial and hands, reshaped 16200 case, Clark T21), I'd like to gather your thoughts on the following:

1) Yuki dial: It's the matte dial with white lume version, I'd like to have relumed and "vintagized". Who would you confide the task to?

2) Yuki hands: Not the worst I've seen but not perfect either. Back in the day I had found TC's hands to be very good with the exception of the minute hand not being quite long enough. Did anyone succeed in finding something better?

3) Case is not a problem since I have a JMB V2 with custom markings and, alternatively, an old 16200 which had been reshaped to exact measurements by Akira, using LH's gen 1016 as a reference.

4) Movement: I'd like to swap the chinese clone with something more reliable. I can't remember for the love of me what's the position of Yuki dial's feet is. I'd hate to have to resort to glueing it to the movement so, any info on that will be welcome.

Thanks in advance, feels good to be back

 

L. 

 

1) PBdad did my 1016 dial and Cwazy did my 5514. Unfortunately, both of them are long gone. Only other person I have used for lume was Vac, who did my 3717. 

2) I went with the TC hands. I had a set of Clarks to use originally, but got tipped off to the TC hands and swapped at the last minute. In one of your posts on the subject from 2015, you landed on the Helenarou hands as a viable option.

3) Not sure there is a question here. I always thought the gen 160xx cases were better that the 162xx cases for a 1016, but if you've had the latter re-shaped, then I would use it myself.

4) If you go with the 16200, then you could use the SH3135, or ETA 2824/Selita SW200 (granted, incorrect beat rates though). I think JMB was also recommending the Felsa 4000 as an alternative in his case, but you'd be gluing the dial to the movement. IIRC, mymanmatt said the ETA 2789 would fit in the JMB case. You can get the Yuki dial with ETA feet. Unfortunately, the 2846 I used won't work for you.

Good luck!

My 16014 project is linked in my signature below. Answers the 160xx questions. I haven't done a 16xx project, so can't help you there.

There are plenty of trusted dealers with their own sections linked on the homepage (Watches, Clothing, Parts and Accessories). Start your research there.

My build is linked below in my signature. 1016's are a great first build project for people (along with DJ's). A lot of different ways to do them, from cheap to expensive. 

9 minutes ago, Sogeha said:

I think ARF just might with luck up their game and produce a clone movement Daytona. Well I hope so😀

I would bet Noob improves the dial and insert first. v2 .... :)

Plenty of discussions on this already. Short version is the movement is a great leap forward on the Noob, but the watch is let down by things like the dial and bezel insert. The ARF version is more accurate visually, but the movement isn't the same. IIRC, people have said you can't take this movement and swap to the ARF case directly, but it might be possible by modifying the case.

On 1/28/2015 at 10:21 AM, dutchguy2 said:

I have two cases. One HH 5513 and one Cartel 5513.

 

Since the HH case is real crap I probably will use the Cartel case with a lot of reshaping. What is crap about the HH case: Bezel construction, the hole for the tube is to big and a gen or gen style tube will not fit (I wonder how everybody else did fix that).

 

I know a 2846 fits a Cartel case well, I have one in my Tudor build. So, that should be no problem. I also know that a 2846 will have a wrong stem height in the HH case. Another reason not using the HH case.

I used an Athaya 702 crown/tube in my 5514 HH case, which installed directly without retapping. He also made a 702 tube which worked with a gen crown that also fit.

Misiekped built it for me and reported no issues with the 2846 fitment other than he didn't use the HH movement ring.

I'm sure there are plenty of members here that would buy the HH case from you (including me). It was easily the best option besides Phong when it came out. I'd love to take a crack at a pre-Comex 5513 with it.

Here comes the next great project from the mind of Ubi .... :)

I was fortunate to avoid some of your issues by using a gen 16014 case (with JMB bezel) and Whoopy dial. The 2846 fit and the dial was easily positioned.

Not so easy now given the lack of availability of parts ... :)

You could also have made it easier by using a dial that had ETA feet ... like Whoopy's if you could have found one ....

Depends on the construction of the rep, and the tolerances therein.

With many reps, simply disassembling, lubing and replacing the gaskets can get you a long way. With others, I still wouldn't swim with them even after doing that.

Just as I have issue with people who are not Americans trying to tell "us" how to live or what's best for our country, I also won't begin to try to tell people in other countries the same. When you don't have the proper frame of reference it's impossible. I think there are some good things about the EU (the ease of being able to work), but from an American point of view there are a lot of things I wouldn't want for my county (for example the extra layer of overbearing regulations that MOAB mentioned). Still, it's not for me to say if it's best for those in Europe, as I lack the proper context to do so.

We had a President and Congress that for the better part of eight years tried to move us toward being "Europe West" and found that the people opposed it so much we ended up with Trump (MAGA) as President. It was actually Brexit that foreshadowed the Trump victory. Whether it ends up being the catalyst for the rest of the EU to break up remains to be seen, but the countries involved will have to figure out what's best for them.

Sead1999 (Supermirrors) regularly keeps stock in the UK and will ship from there.

3 hours ago, Sogeha said:

Hmm, the camera never lies

Having spent many years as a commercial photographer, I can tell you without question the camera lies frequently.

And that was even before Photoshop, which upgrades the quality of the lies by an order of magnitude ...

Without seeing a straight on shot it's hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the printing on the 6 o'clock subdial is off square by a couple of degrees to the left (counter clockwise).

7 hours ago, aprolexlover said:

Ah thanks for sharing, the right pusher seems to sit a fraction lower than the left pusher. Correct me if im wrong.

 

Yes, Daytonas are supposed to have asymmetrical pushers. 

Useful thread. 

40 minutes ago, bobandshawn said:

 

With the gold bezel back on it's 16013...with a 1604 bracelet. Correct? @tomhorn

 

B

Yep, ... assuming it's the yellow gold bezel ... but do what makes you happy wearing it .... you can always change it later ....

Not really period "correct". You're mixing a 16013 dial and crown with a 16030 bezel and 1604 bracelet.

That's the great thing about DateJusts, you can mix and match to come up with anything you like. I put a 16234 dial in my 16014 build and never looked back.

Nice build!