tomhorn

I think much of it still holds true. The best base watch to start is either the BK WM9 or TC. They are just tougher to find because they are no longer made. If you don't want to go that route, then the JF or ST cases are the most reasonable base to start from. IF you pick up an entire JF, you would get the SH3135, and then you could use gen hands (solving one of your stated issues), and gen DW.

You really should do your own research. All of these builds have some compromises, and only you know what will be acceptable for you.

I rarely like to send people elsewhere, but here's the best collection of posts I have seen on the 16613.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/rolex-tudor-replicas/235295-a-guide-to-16613-builds-frankening

16 hours ago, danielv2000 said:

Have not looked at Franken Daytona’s in a long while. 

 

I look at one in particular nearly every day ....  

21 minutes ago, edgematic1 said:

Yes, @sputim told me, I thought it also had the same beatrate as the 72. I might sell my v72 and look for a v726, we'll see. I'm not in a hurry. 

If you decide to sell the v72, let me know. I have a spare case and dial just waiting on me to start another project ....

16 minutes ago, edgematic1 said:

What pushers would you recommend instead of going gen? When I take on a franken project I always take it as a challenge to get it as close as possible to the gen, that's what I really enjoy, hehe. The hunt, and getting it as close as possible. 

What's the best source for bezels? Those NY bezels look good in my opinion!

 

Offrei or Cousins UK for the pushers. WatchNY is still on eBay and he is back to offering the bezels from time to time.

Personally I wouldn't do the conversion unless your v72 has to go in for service anyway, and you can find the parts for a great price. I'm also not sure that the gen pushers are worth the price you'll pay.

Rest of your choices are good. Dials are hit and miss, but you'll want to go for one of the VN dials unless you can find one of the original batch of DW's. You just missed a great black "big red" VN dial for sale that already had the gen coronet installed. Might want to check with the seller (sputim) to see where he acquired it, or if he has any others.

Obviously the hard part is finding the v72 without spending insane money. If you look through my Daytona build thread there are some hints at brands and alternative movement IDs to help locate one.

My HH cased franken says hello ... it really is a great case .... especially for the money!

My brand new Accutron with an ETA 7750 for $286 (linked below) was probably my best buy. Wanted to swap the movement into my IWC 3717 but the watch was too nice. Also got both my 2846's for my Rolex builds from donor "Swiss Military" watches. I don't think they were NOS, but bargains nonetheless at $28 each.

Do some research under the "Rolex Area" and "Watches, Clothing, Parts and Accessories".

I get nothing when looking up the item number, but $3,500 USD for a 2824 powered dive watch is not even remotely close to a value for the money.

3 hours ago, Faster897 said:

Thanks very much for replying Tom. My particular interest is the accuracy of the design and it looking as close to genuine as possible. I'm satisfied with movement as long as they tell the time!

Unfortunately, you've picked the wrong brand then.

Accurate? No. Their movements are too complicated.  The Datograph Chronos were gorgeous, just not all that accurate. Not sure if they are still available.

http://www.marywatch.net/goods.php?id=872

If you want something more passable, the regular Langematick (non tourby), Saxonia and 1815 are all OK. They are simple watches that can use a standard Chinese movement.

The Richard Lange was probably the best, but not sure if it's still made.

It was released at the end of last year. Have you checked with the Trusted Dealers?

8 hours ago, lubusssster said:

I've decided on a rivet bracelet
I have asked Riyi for a rivet bracelet, it comes with the end link 455,
I have to get a 580 endlink so it fits well?

If you're asking me, I bought a set of WSO 455's as well. The 580's fit better with the case I used (gen 16014) and allowed for the Aussie springbars which I believe were a bit thicker.

Don't know how small you need to go, but I sized my Mary 7836 down to 6.75" with room to spare.

2 hours ago, Drummania said:

I meant the curvature of the endlink may not fit the case.

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Mine fit perfectly.

3 minutes ago, Drummania said:

Isn’t 580 for subs which is a bigger case?
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No, they are both 20mm. Mary is Mary Watch (formerly Watch International). WSO is the eBay store Wholesale Outlet 990.

I used Mary's 7836 with WSO 580's on mine.

35 minutes ago, Drummania said:

Dumb question... I don't actually see how the case differs from 16000 DJ case except for the lug holes. Does anyone have a side profile comparison picture?

LHOOQ did one a while back.

https://rwg.cc/topic/134440-1016-explorer-frankens-why-not-a-16000-case/

2 hours ago, indywatchguy said:

Can someone post a FB link? I searched and couldn’t find it.


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The group is here:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1511488312214758/

Wonder if they know what's coming .... 

This will be fun ...

Congrats MoaB!

Love to see a good result out of situations like this. At one time or another most of us have had deals go south, so kudos to everyone who helped out!

Keep in mind Ruby's dials are made for use with gen Rolex movements, so you'll be cutting dial feet if you are using ETA or Chinese movements.