Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Tiyal

Member
  • Posts

    360
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Tiyal

  1. Hey man look at torros no date sub. Its in your price range, not having a date saves you from two things 1 misaglined / justified date wheel. 2 crystal issues , no cyclops no anti reflective coating no worries.

    Like the guys said above, take the watch when you get it to a friendly watch repair shop and have them pressure test it, $20. Just be straight with them, "hey I've got this watch its not real but would you mind pressure teasting it for me." If there cool, which i'm sure they will be later on down the road the may help you repair it or grease the o-rings.

    Your at $208 for the watch & $20 for a pressure test. I'd absulutly email TC and get a new band, $55 ish shipped.

    Your over budjet by $80 but will have a nice little rep, not to flashy (deep sea) just right.

    post-11567-0-20761900-1417744681_thumb.j

  2. These two links helped a little. Funny as I reread the part about removing the date wheel spring (i refered to it as the pawl spring) and the technique of pulling it out through the date wheel plate. I removed the plate first and would not do it again. In my parts box I have 5 or 6 dead 2813s and luckily I was able to scavange date wheel springs from them. The energry in that little spring is just enough to send it flying across the room and out a window lol. Lost 4, recoverd 2 the next day.

    http://forums.watchuseek.com/f72/lesson-iv-romoving-date-module-actual-oiling-408354.html#/forumsite/20758/topics/408354

    http://www.watchstuff.org/?p=140

    Next issue I had to solve was an extra gear that had stuck to the date wheel plate. I'm so glad I snapped a picture of its position before pulling it off the plate. Because of that photo i was able to locate its place.

    The newer 3804 has a different date advance gear (name?) thats driven by the keyless works. The older movement that I'm using has that gear running (same spot) from the works up and over the date wheel plate almost holding the date wheel in place. I had both of these instaled and couldnt figure out why the plate couldnt attach. When I pulled the new one it all came together nicely.

  3. While working on a basket case 1680 this morning something unexpected was created.

    The 1680 case had very bad things done to it mostly with large drill bits. No matter how much I tried to salvage the project it was a loss when the epoxied (yes, I said I'd done bad things) tube came out.

    For some reason I pushed a clark  tropic 39 from that project into a random case thats been in the box for years. IT SNAPPED RIGHT IN?? so then I went through all my inserts and found a ceramic that fit as well. After that it was tap the case to 3x.35 instal a tube and case the movement. The dial was a little to big so I attached it to a drill and spun against some 600 grit (dont try this at home, note ring below hand stack)  how ever perfect fit.

     

    Self lumed, Gen crown, Miyota, clark 39 and tube.

     

    Out of the Jaws of Defeat the unexpected will happen

     

    Enjoy

    post-11567-0-44883300-1405054514_thumb.j

    post-11567-0-50200000-1405054523_thumb.j

    post-11567-0-09915700-1405054530_thumb.j

    post-11567-0-48412800-1405054538_thumb.j

  4. Aloha all!

    First post in a looooong time.

    I just moved the hand wheels from one eta to another to get H4 from H2.

    I pulled the hour and minute wheels no problem.

    Can of worms with the flip and removal of the second hand wheel / post. Got every thing back together (after twice losing the god da** fk** n little spring that stops the ratcheting wheel) but somthing is Monkeyd up.

    When i wind the movement is spinning the hand wheel.

    Whatd i miss?

    Thanks

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up