liquid-air888

He charges $25 for the dial + $15 shipping. I think there's a photo of another member who switched his dial and compared it to the old dial. The new dial from Angus looked pretty good. Sparkly...

I was wondering if the money you had to spend on all the above would be better spent by getting a used gen sub instead. With the economy being the way it is, cash is king and you can bargain for a used gen like crazy. There are lots of independent watch & jewelry dealers selling used gen Rolexes for real good prices. You can pick up a used gen Sub (90s to 2000s) for about $4K (give or take a few hundred dollars).

I read in this forum Angus at Pure Time has an updated dial that is more silvery and sparkly. I just ordered one from him. Sorry to hear the crystal sitting flush. Did you get it from Eurotimez as well? I would definitely email Chris and ask him about it. Here are some photos of mine. You can see the crystal is definitely quite high. This is the perfect version from Trusty. The dial is a little yellow IMHO. Hopefully the new dial from Angus will fix that.

Ditto...I've never heard or seen this line.....oh well.. I am, after all, a newbie....

Oh my...I've seen a few members posting the same problems with low crystal on these YM. By the way, who did you get the watch from?

My YM didn't come from Angus but I've purchased a couple of watches from him. So far, he's been real responsive to messages. You should send him an email and tell him about the problem. If the watch is new, perhaps you can ask him to exchange it. But with the long wait and the postage cost to China to get it replaced, you should have your local watchsmith take a look at the watch first. Maybe he can fix it for cheap and only takes a day.

I actually asked Chris if the dial and hands are lumed on the Euro. He confirmed they were. I wonder how they look like though....??? Pictures anyone?

That is way too low. Who did you buy it from? I would contact your dealer and get a replacement.

Not that I know of

Same thing happened to my YM. I just fixed it. Here's what I did: 1. Open the back using any of the instruments often featured here in this forum. Remove the crown. Lots of instructions here on how to do that. 2. Mine has an ETA, so I had to take out the two screws and clamp. Be careful, those screws are really, really small and on my mine, one of the screws actually fell into the watch. More on how I got it out later. If you have an Asian, I heard they just fall off. 3. Once the screws are off, turn the watch upside down and the movement should just fall off nicely on your palm. 4. Other members here recommends nail polish but since I didn't have any, I took a very, very small mixture of epoxy (the ones with 5 minute setting) and using only the TIP OF A NEEDLE, I applied a very, very small amount of glue to the middle of the marker. 5. Use a tweezer and carefully place the marker back on the dial. Make sure the position is correct. 6. Some members recommend covering the movement in an upside down wine glass for 24 hours to let the glue properly set, but I only waited one hour. 7. After one hour, I shook the watch gently, rotating it in my palm every few shakes and....voila the screw fell out. Make sure you have a bowl or plate underneath the watch to catch the screw when it falls into the bowl. Try not to let it fall on the floor or carpet. They're really, really small and you'll have a real hard time finding it if it goes on the floor or carpet. 8. Put the movement back onto the case. Make sure the position is correct. 9. Screw the clamps back on and put the crown back in. Don't push it hard or you'll be in a world of hurt if it broke. Gently rotate and insert. It'll go in. 10. Replace the case back and you are DONE!! I'm a newbie and this was not a hard task to do.

Oh my goodness. I am in a world of hurt now. After gluing back the lume to the marker, I was on my way to put the watch together and one of the movement screw fell into the watch and I can't seem to get it out. Any ideas? PLEASE? Thank you.

Hello there, A masterpiece. By the way, would you like to sell these left over bezel rings? Thank you.

I am going to try this procedure also as one of the lume marker has also come off one of my reps. I'm a newbie and just so that I don't get them wrong, do you have photos of the "2 movement screws and locking tabs that hold the movement in the case" Thank you.

Thanks for the info By-Tor. I should've read up on these before I went and made the purchase. Oh well....no use cyring over spilled milk. I guess there's nothing more to do now but just enjoy what I have.... Thanks again

I have been wondering about how to service these watches. I've read that oiling them is not the way to go as they create even more drag. Has anyone had good luck with you applying graphite to lubricate them? What do you personally do to service them?

Even the so called "perfect" YM dial lacks that certain shine. The updated dial from Angus looks really nice on picture. I just sent him an email to see if I could buy one. I have been staring at photos of Gen YM from various websites. Does anyone notice that the "swiss made" on the dial is sometimes very close to each other and on some gen photos the two words are further apart. Even on the Rolex website, they have two different pictures. On the Panorama, it shows the "swiss" and "made" are further apart but on other pictures they're very close apart. Also, what is the real rehaut thickness of these watches? Some members in this forum have stated that they are not supposed to be as deep. On some gen photos they don't look as deep as the sub, but on some others, they look as deep as a sub. The "perfect" version from Trusty (which is the one I have) is not so deep...

Oh man....The "Perfect" Yachtmaster isn't so perfect after all. By-Tor is right. I have one. The rehaut is really thin...... Real good movement though....

Hear Hear!! I second that...

I remembered buying reps in the 80s. They looked nothing like what they do today. Siimply amazing... I believe it's the ability of the factories to produce near perfect, high-quality reps, fueled by the overall weak economy is why the rep business is experiencing a rise.

I actually had the same experience with the stuck bezel. I didn't realize we were only supposed to glue the "outermost" part of the insert or else we'd end up with the bezel not rotating. Fortunately I used the glue sparingly and caught the problem early next morning. I used a needle tip to get inside of the bezel and scraped off as much glue as I could. Then I carefully pulled out the insert, sanded off all the glue residues (using 150 sand paper) and started the gluing process all over again. It actually worked fine after correctly applying glue (very sparingly) using the tip of a toothpick only to the outer part of the insert. When the glue dried, the bezel on my sub rotated perfectly...

Yes, I actually read a review posted by By-Tor (if I'm not mistaken) who actually mentioned that the flaw in the "wokky" looking rehaut exists in some dealers' rep. This includes Angus. Unfortunately, I read the review only after I purchased and received the watch. Oh well... Thanks for the info.

Thanks for the info. Do you know offhand what the flaws are? Regards.

I'm posting more pictures of the sub. Thanks.

Hello all, I recently purchased a Sub "M" Series from Angus. When the watch arrived, my first thought was the teeth on the bezel looked surprisingly shallow and a bit small. They're not as deep and well defined as the ones I see on so many pictures in this forum. I've included some pictures of the watch here. Forgive the bad photography skills. I need to read up on how to take pictures in this forum soon. I would really appreciate if the experts in this forum could take a quick look at the photos (again, sorry for the poor quality) and let me know if the teeth on the bezel are indeed too shallow or do these look normal? Thank you so much!!