801run

Totally agree. Great to hear you've used it and succeeded with you repairs! This video along with the ETA7750 flash guide is a good start i think when attempting this movement.

While awaiting some tools to be able to do my first attempt to fix a watch movement, I was doing some research and found this video of a skilled guy assembling the ETA7750 movement: http://blip.tv/file/324970/ Oiling and cleaning parts has been cut out of the video to save time. I think this can be a great resource for beginners, like me, to get some tips on some tricky parts, e.g. the automatic device bridge and hour hammer spring. Also just to see the how a skilled person works with the tools is great, for instance when he stabilizes the screw driver by holding it with the tweezer, neat little trick. Great stuff, enjoy! Regards, 801run

Great review The Zigmeister! Very interesting to read about this. A thought, if one were to get a rep which uses this running secs at 12 modification, would it be possible to exchange the underlying A7750 with a new ordinary A7750 (in case of e.g. movement probs), transferring the dial side gears of the secs at 12 mod onto the new A7750, or would there be problems with dial hand posts of the standard A7750 being to short etc? Regards

Hi Rolexman! Just a question on removing/reinserting the stem on an A7750, you seem to have done it a lot. When I reinsert the stem, I push the crown release button, I know on some movements you don't have to/should not use this button when you reinsert the stem. I havn't tried to reinsert it on the A7750 without using this button, what is your procedure here? Regards

I have no experience of the tricompax module yet, although I have a failing A7750 with tricompax module on a MB Timewalker so I need to take care of this sooner or later as well. But will the "posts" (don't know the correct term) for the hands be long enough on a gen ETA7750? Feels like when you put on another plate between the movement and the dial (the tricompax plate), the hour hand (and other hands as well) will get closer to the dial, perhaps making the hour hand scratch the dial, or does the tricompax plate incorporate some kind of extension to this "post"? Don't think it does, or .. I can't imagine how such a construction would be possible.

Thanx! I _think_ it does as of 2008 and later, but I'm not certain. The early lines did not have AR, that I know. It is the same with the Link, the old lines did not have AR, but I know for sure that the new Links have double AR. But since the Carrera reps has the old-line rotor (that is not perforated), the most accurate would be not to have AR on the sapphire. But I'm not so picky with that, I think it looks nice with the AR.

Hi clkcadet! I have the same problem on one of my A7750 movements. This tutorial you mentioned, do you have a link for it? Can't seem to find it.

Hi darkside! I have the same problem and I'm thinking of trying this my self, although it is an A7750 movement. Do you have a link to this tutorial? I can't seem to find it.

Rock on! Great to hear you like it, I was wondering if the red stitching will suit the red racing hands, but it sounds like your pretty happy with it! Looking forward to get mine!

Thanx! Actually, access to this AR-lab was easier than I could ever imagine. I live in Sweden, tried to find a lab that were willing to do this .. it was not easy, got turned down by all labs I contacted. I work as a contractor, and it just struck me that I might try and ask the company that I currently work for, they are working a lot with optics .. and yup, they could do it for me! They just put it in the daily production, and didn't even charge me for it =) I gave the guy 100SEK (like ten bucks) in his pocket and told him that I just might bring him more of my sapphires further on hehe .. we'll see about that, depends on how good this treatment will hold up in the end. Only thing is that most of their daily production is done with a process that is no good for sapphire, so I had to wait until they had enough stuff to run a batch with a process that suited my sapphire, thus I had to wait a little over one month to get the sapphire back. But that was alright for me .. I have other watches =)

Also, bought this racing strap: http://www.watch-band-center.com/watchstra...-Imola-20m.html Its kind of Carrera-ish with the perforated leather, and kind of matches the Racing edition with the red stitching i think. I will remove the buckle and attach my Carrera clasp =)

Thanx guys! Does the Swiss datewheel fit the old 21k6 A7750? Yup =( it has the old version, although it works great and keeps perfect time.

Hi guys, hope all is well. Really like this place and all of you helpful people! Here are some shots of my latest experiment; my TAG Heuer Carrera Racing got AR:ed! This AR looks really good, I'm totally happy with it! The dial of the Carrera is pretty reflective, so it might be hard to see if the reflections are from the dial or the sapphire in the pics, but the sapphire is almost invisible, if one looks at the big hands and like turn the watch in different angles, you get the feeling that you can grab the hands with your fingers, there is nothing covering them I have more pictures if someone is interested. Now lets just see how well this AR will stand dirt and scratches .. =) I have the SFSO as well, and I think I actually prefer this AR to the SFSO, even though both are very good! Take care all!

Hi Toad! Thanx! Will search and check whether it is the tricompax. I mean, it is an asian movement, wouldn't all of them use the tricompax then? Or are you saying that there are "real" asian 7753's, and you can get that much money for them?!

Thanx for the link Offshore! When checking the documentation at that link I see that there is quite a lot that differs between the 7753 and the 7750 (it is a 7753 I have). I was under the impression that they were very similar, but hopefully I will be able to use the 7750-flash-guide anyway.

As for my keyless works/clutch lever problem, would you guys recommend having the crown inserted in the movement when attempting this repair, or to attempt it when the crown has been removed from the mvmt? Thanx and regards

Hi Toad! Jup, I'm prepared. I'm thinking that if I'm not able to fix it, I will swap the movement with one from another 7750 watch that I don't like as much, and keep the MB rotor (the mvmt that is broken is for a MB Timewalker with see-through case and MB designed rotor). I realised yesterday when toying with another watch, I was inserting the mvmt stem screws with the small pieces underneath, that I do need a better tweezer. Mine simply does not cut it, I find myself using toothpicks instead of the tweezer whenever it is possible, my tweezer also seems to be a little magnetic making some pieces almost impossible to grab in a good way. I bought a great tool yesterday! A big bouncing ball =) It just struck me when playing with my daughters stuff that hmm, this might work for case backs! It works like the Ofrei case opener balls, except this one is much cheaper and can be bought in any children toy store! The friction is perfect, I've tried it on one daytona and one SFSO, the cases don't stand a chance, no problem =) It has to be pretty big though, like the Ofrei balls, tried a smaller one but it simply didn't grab onto a large enough area. As for the cleaning part, no, I do not have any chemicals or machines or anything. I'm thinking since this error was caused by me inserting the crown, I've probably moved some part of of place, and I will be able to move it back to its correct place (if I manage to do this that is) without cleaning it with anything special. I'm not trying to service the complete movement now, just fix the error. I mean the 7750 worked fine before the crown issue, and it certainly couldn't have been clean since it has never been serviced. Well, I'll keep you all posted in this thread about my progress! I'm planning on shooting a few shots while I'm at it, perhaps make a new thread. If I succeed with this, that is =) .. I'll be known as the home-made-tool-guy if you'd see any pics of my setup lol.

Just a quick question for you guys who have experience removing and reinserting movements. I've done it a few times now on different watches and only messed up one watch when reinserting the crown, the one mentioned above. When I reinsert the crown, I do it before I screw the movement onto the stem, I've never tried it the other way around since I reccon it is easier to get the crown in place when the movement allows to be moved a bit, but on the other hand, when you press the crown release button hard when inserting the crown without having the movement fixed onto the stem, the applied pressure might move the movement a bit (depending on how the case looks like) making it hard to get the crown in correctly. Any tips here, screw the movement onto the stem before or after reinserting the crown? Thanx guys!

Solved. To anyone trying to do this, there is a small lip on the inner edge of the bezel, look for it, mine was at 12 o'clock. Use a case back knife at the lip to pry the bezel open, it will come off easily.

Thanx again freddy! Smart trick with the screwdrivers, will probably use that instead of the hand remover tool then, since the hand remover tool only removes the hands, it does not help you to put them back on anyway. I read somewhere here at the forum a trick with a piece of tape (maybe thats not the right word, scotch perhaps?), sticking the hands onto the tape, then holding the piece of tape between the thumb and forefinger and fitting the hand into place. Maybe you can get the hands on this way, but it seems hard to be able to apply any pressure to the hands this way, making them fit real tight. Found the Bergeon tool for fitting hands, but they seem so ridiculously expensive for such a simple tool. Maybe I give the tape a try .. I have a dial with attached movement from an old cheap rep laying around, I can try on that one first .. or, I do as you say, go to the watchmaker and let him attach them. I've bought sort of a toolbox with lots of small compartments in, like 60 or so, with lids .. thinking I will use this when disassembling the 7750, since there are so many parts (depenging on how much I need to disassemble it), then it will be easier reassembling it, just following the boxes backwards in turn =) .. also bought sort of a desk lamp, strong light, with built in magnifier glass wich I will use instead of a loupe .. a loupe is probably better, but I do not have good enough light anywhere anyway so I thought this might be an alternative. Also need a better tweezer, have good screwdrivers .. need movement holder. Will probably buy some stuff from Silix site (www.pandawill.com), he has a bunch of watch tools over there, pretty simple but really cheap! And free shipping .. don't really wanna cash out for Bergeon tools for just this single job, might buy better tools furhter on instead.

Thanx freddy! When stepping through the 7750 guide I gave the clutch lever a thought, it felt like that might very well be part of the problem. I will try it, just have to get me one of those hand removing tools first .. thats why I didn't want to remove the hands and dial if I didn't have to, feels like it might be hard without that tool. I'll just cross my fingers and hope I will work this out! .. maybe I should get my self a movement holder also, while at it =)

Now my problems are even worse! =) I managed to get a case back knife today and decided to remove the movement and fix the pusher now when I was able to remove the bezel .. everything went fine, fixed the pushers with loctite and reassembled the watch. This time, when inserting the crown, I can't get it right at all! When the crown is inserted the whole way now, it will set the date when turned. If I try to pull the crown out, it will come loose from the movement and the movement stops, sort of as it is in set-time position. I can then reinsert the crown again and get the same effect, the movement will start running and if I turn the crown it will set the date. I guess I must have moved something out of place in there =) .. maybe it was not a good idea to remove the crown when the movement probably had the date gears engaged, the time was like 22 or so .. didn't think about that until afterwards. Now, I've been keen on disassembling a movement for some time now, so I guess this is my chance! I'm wondering if this problem might be fixable by disassembling the movement from behind, beginning with the rotor and so on, I will use the ETA7750 guide to disassemble, or would I need to completely disassemble the movement, starting from the top by removing the hands and the dial and then all steps according to the 7750 guide? It seems I can reach the reversing wheel without removing too many parts, which The Zigmeister thought was the problem I had the first time. Now, however, it's probably a lot more than the reversing wheel that is misbehaving Also, should I let the movement run out of power before starting to work on it? Maybe it can empty its power reserve uncontrollably if I start removing parts when it is still running, causing harm? Thankful for any help I can get here by anybody!

OK, thanx!

Thanx for the reply The Zigmeister!! The strange thing is that I didn't actually do anything to the movement, except for removing the crown and then reinserting it that is. I was only going to remove the movement to be able to tighten a loose pusher from inside the case, only to find out that the movement couldn't be lifted out from the back, I had to remove the bezel and lift the movement and dial out from the top. I do not have a case back opener yet, so I just had to screw the movement back onto the stem for the moment .. then when reinserting the crown, this happened. Well, I guess I must have pushed something out of place when reinserting the crown then =( .. I will consider sending the movement for service. DemonSlayer: How did you resolve the problem? Thanx again guys!

Hi all, Think I made a mistake on one of my A7750 reps. When replacing the movement into the watch after doing some experimenting, I was having trouble reinserting the crown. I was very gentle, did not use any force, and finally it went into place. The crown was then able to be pulled out to time-set position as it should, but I couldn't set the time, seemed like something has gotten stuck and I did not try to force it. Worth to mention is that the crown was in the time-set position when I first removed it. I then read some posts here at the forum, discovered that the best position for the crown when being removed is the winding position, otherwise the keyless works can be harmed. I removed the crown once again, now from the winding position, and tried reinserting it. This time the result was better, I can now set the date and time as ordinary. However, I can not wind the watch manually. When I try to wind it manually, it seems as the watch actually is being wound, but the rotor also rotates! The whole manual winding process now seems to be attached to too many parts, making the rotor and everything around it work as when it is being wound by motion! The manual winding also takes more force to perform now, but I stopped as soon as I saw the rotor was rotating by the manual winding =) .. hope I have not ruined anything. So, before I remove the crown and try to reinsert it again, I was thinking maybe some of you guys (The Zigmeister perhaps?) had an idea of what could be causing this behaviour? Have this behaviour anything to do with the keyless works (I'm not familiar with the keyless works, if it is related to the winding or to something else..), have I destroyed anything or can I simply try to remove and reinsert the crown again? The movement works and is being wound by motion, and I normally do not wind the movement manually since I've read this can harm the movement, but still, it would be nice to have the manual winding in function. Really thankful for answer! Thanx! 801run