The cg doesn't even touch the crown in the first pic you posted so that right there screams sketchy. Also, the PAM 203 (second from the left on the bottom row) is clearly a rep. The logo next to the 3 is way too close to the numeral. That alone would be worth over $100,000.
Guys, you're totally missing the point. Sure a 24/24 version would be just like any other strap out there and should cost just as much, but for 18 grand you get a sweet taper and 2 mm less material at the tip! Highly collectible in its own right!
A couple issues with the 021 is that it uses a platinum case and Rolex 618 movement. A more reasonably priced and closer to specification alternative would be the 322.
http://www.puretimewatch.com/product/pam322-radiomir-titanium-47mm-updated-movement/
If you're going for a tobacco dial, nothing pairs better than a titanium case.
If they're the recent H Factory releases go with the updated and higher beat rate one. There have been multiple reports of the slower movements crapping out quickly so it's up to you to decide whether a little extra investment is worth it to have a watch that works.
It depends on the model as Pete said. For guys just getting into Panerai, the typical starting point is the 111, and based on PureTime's head-to-head review of the Noob and H versions, the consensus is that Noob is better. The same might not apply to others though.
If you're interested in 40mm PAMs, there's the famous shop in MBK Center that carries those. I believe that's the only model available from there. PWC/Robert is also in Thailand, but I'm not sure of the exact city.
Is that one of the old school 049s? Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the factories will be doing a run with the same quality anytime soon, if at all.
Does anyone know the average power reserve for a 1030 movement? I just tested my franken 6538, and it lasted just under 45 hours on a full wind. No complaints since that's comparable even to modern ETAs, but I thought it was supposed to be in the low 30s. Maybe the overhaul did wonders, but I'm wondering if I should crack the caseback to make sure the watchsmith installed the right movement.
Does anyone know the average power reserve for a 1030 movement? I just tested my franken 6538, and it lasted just under 45 hours on a full wind. No complaints since that's comparable even to modern ETAs, but I thought it was supposed to be in the low 30s. Maybe the overhaul did wonders, but I'm wondering if I should crack the caseback to make sure the watchsmith installed the right movement.
I've only seen 6583s mounted on Bond NATOs or rivet bracelets so I'm wondering how to pair it with a nice protein based strap. My assumption is that something smooth like ammo (maybe the Ted Su below?) would work better than an exotic skin but am really curious about your experiences and suggestions. The other thing, of course, would be what color leather and stitching to tie with the gilt dial and hands.