sssurfer

Does anyone know whether, in order to remove a HBB crystal:

- I just need to remove the caseback and the movement, then push the crystal from the inside to the outside, 'Panerai-style'?

or

- I also need to remove the HBB bezel?

Thanks in advance,

sss

Unfortunately no black-on-black datewheels from Lello.

Even more unfortunately, no datewheels at all from him recently -- he sort of retired.

I hope he will come back again soon.

Ok -- I can now declare myself officially concerned.

Any news about Vicky?

Do you push it out from the bottom of the CG up, or from the top of the CG down? Or does it matter?

It does matter. Most pins come with an end larger than the other end.

If one pin end / hole looks smaller than the other one, push from that end.

Else push gently from the CG down. If the pin does not move at all, then try gently as well from the CG up. If it does not move yet, then push again from the down by applying a little more pressure, and so on. Odds are that the pin will come out from down to up, but not necessarily.

Great indeed, wear it well!

Pix, I can confirm your cyclops recessed even on the pic only.

You are right, that cyclops is less than sufficient, both the cyclops AND the datewheel may be subject to improvements.

And also kruzer is absolutely right as usual: what a shame to take the hassle to go for a recessed cyclops, just to then fall with a weak cyclops!

Double shame, the date on other submersibles I saw in past times was excellent, thanks to a good recessed cyclops and a good DW font.

A good recessed cyclops is a wonderful thing as it gives two benefits:

1. It increases the distance between the cyclops and the date window, so that the magnifying effect by the cyclops gets enhanced.

2. It leaves more room for the hands.

As a matter of fact, many genuine models have a recessed cyclops -- the submersibles among them.

On the other hand, a recessed cyclops brings issues to the manufacturer about getting a hole of the perfect size and shape in the inner layer of the sandwich crystal, where the cyclops sits.

That is why it's really a shame that, after getting those issues sorted out, the maker used a less-than-perfect cyclops.

As I said, replacing a recessed cyclops is a task for the bold and the brave only.

But you could get a 50% improvement by using a better DW -- Lello's if possible, else DSN's.

Hi mate,

congrats on your purchase -- and thanks for the review!

Also a special thanks for the heads up about those devices in the lugs, I was unaware about them.

You already know my opnion about this great watch and I have little to add here.

But -- wow, that lume is great!

About the date... pls would you post a pic of it?

I bet that the problem is the date font rather than the cyclops. In this case a Lello's DW might help.

I am also quite positive that that cyclops is a "recessed" cyclops. You may verify it by examining it with a loupe. If you can see sort of a double outline, or an unusually thick contour, then it is a recessed cyclops.

In this case, beware: replacing a recessed cyclops is a PITA. Almost impossible. The only one I know who was successful in disassembling and reassembling a sandwich crystal / recessed cyclops was Lello himself (on his 024, btw). I ruined a 104 by trying to do the same.

Floppy lever: did you really use Loctite? Not a recommended glue for that fix. Better using an elastic glue or silicon.

But no problem: just use a different glue when your lever becomes floppy again.

Oh well, I hate to focus just on such (minor) faults. All in all, it's a gourgeous watch. Congrats once again, wear it well!

Ciao Luca,

welcome aboard!

There are a few Italians here, great to hear that another Italian fellow is joining the fun.

Keep up, getting a bad watch is sort of an initiatiory rite in the rep world.

And that watch even is not that bad -- depending on how much you paid for it.

I agree, it might even make for a project start.

But I think that as a newcomer you'd better not engage yourself in a project as your first experience (again, depending on how much you paid for it).

I would say that, if you paid less than $250, you'd better keep it as a lesson learnt and a source for parts, and you go and get a decent out-of-the-box rep from any dealer -- oops: "collector" -- here.

Welcome aboard, best wishes on your purchase(s).

You could have double AR and if you want to change it you could remove one side later.

Uhm. Differently from single AR, removing double side AR is a PITA even on just one side. Double is 1000x tougher than single.

V told me he had one that looked like poo...and I can't get that out of my heqd now!!!!!!

Oh my! You just ruined my liking too forever, fish! :lol:

I tried both single and double AR.

The effect of single AR is subtle: you are just left with single reflections instead of double reflections.

In my opinion, the best effect of single AR is on reflections from the cyclops, that get almost completely erased.

Just, as your 250 is cyclopsless, you are not going to take benefit from that effect.

Personally, I highly prefer double AR, even at expense for accuracy.

In the end, even a gen might get re-AR-coated.

Gigantic! Awesome!

Going to put my 4813 into good use now...

Wow, this "emergency" post of mine looks as it's turning into something much more useful to the community -- thanks to all experts who chimed in!

I would just like to stress that I am taking no parts in a blueish-vs-purplish debate, I feel not qualified to do that.

I was just referring what I found on checking my gen pics, and only in reply to a specific question by another member.

I too agree that many variants actually exists, and nuance is often linked with occasional occurences as different light angles and subjective color perception by the observer.

In the end, I personally feel that the only inaccurate look is the general, evident blueish tint that can be found on some reps.

Wow, great strap and combo!

It looks pretty thick. Is it soft enough?

A few days ago a member asked me in a PM if it is true that no gen PAM has blue AR coating.

I promised to check my gen pics collection as soon as I had the time to do it, as I was very busy at that moment.

Now I seem unable to find that PM and who that member was (my apologies, fellow, I get several tenths PM in a week).

So I am posting here what I found, in hope that he will recognize his question and he will read this answer.

Actually, I found no blue AR.

On just a few pics hints of purple AR can be seen, especially in the cyclops area or when the watch is put in some special positions.

Judge by yourself, here is the gen

Welcome!

Donation sent. I think it went anonymous. Oh well, you know you may count on me.

I too hate recurring accounts. If I happen to forget to renew my CC (expiring soon), Paypal is likely to open a hole in my stomach.

we need to be aware that our Admin will have to manually upgrade all supporters on our site and I am sure none of us can expect him to do this 300 times a Month.

Are you saying that if I send, say, $60 in a row, then T. has to manually renew my subscription each months, Ken?

No authomatic procedure for that??

Just get that watch and be happy. Waiting will not enhance your chances to get a 100% Swiss.

You will never know, so don't worry.

In case of troubles, Joshua's after-sale customer care is simply perfect.

If you get mad at thinking of Chinese parts in your movement, I humbly suggest that you reconsider your interest in the rep world.

my clock docktor did

Please note we are talking about reps of PAM 001 and PAM 177, not 101 and 117 (Joshua's code should be read: PN001-01).

If what you are especially after is accuracy, then the 001 is better. A closed back model will always beat a display case model.

Just to say one thing, the 177 swan neck regulator is of the "needle" type, not "dagger" as it is on the gen.

Btw, Joshua's 001 also comes with Asian movement (PN00102), at $168 instead of $248.

is the mini Fiddy is accurate or is a fantasy watch.

I mean does PANERAI has a mini fiddy

Complete fantasy.

But very nice. Shame on Officine Panerai for not making it.

Andrew's model is priced higher as it is declared Swiss unitas, while Josh's is declared Asian.

and, does anyone know how much titanium it is in the titanium so to say?.

It should be 100%. AFAIK, titanium does not make alloys.

shouldnt it be transparant case back on this one?

No.

I think i saw it on the genuine.

Maybe the model you saw was a 111?