sssurfer

Welcome back, Gran.

JFYI, it is 1 year exactly these days that I am waiting for 700+ $ watches from Neil, and he does not even care to answer questions about them.

Oh, I see I missed the first thread.

sssurfer = Stainless Steel Surfer.

Silver Surfer was my favourite superhero when I was a boy. Later, I used to do windsurfing.

But silver hardly applies to a rep. Stainless steel looks more appropriate.

Might it be a fake sale?

Selling to an accomplice, I mean, or even to himself under a different username?

To improve his reputation, or even to prepare this same watch to a new sale?

Or just he got too high on raising his own auction...

Is there a way of making this the right finish?

Unfortunately, no.

It's a brilliant idea!

Just I don't understand why I had to remove the protection in order to connect to the internet again. I am afraid my PC is a wicked one.

They were not so bad in the end...

But I still prefer Van Der Graaf Generator or Beethoven.

Hi, here is your videoclip -- resized, sharpened & compressed. About 500Kb.

If you want it in a different size, just lmk.

clip.zip

AFAIK, the 147 is sold out now.

Too bad.

wow thats nice! you insure something for $600 and get $50 back after a postal worker steals it.

Dutch Post/TNT has a special service:insured shipment, it will be insured fbetween EU500 and max EU 5000, when lost or damaged, you will get paid the value stated on the form you filled in

I'm sure postal service in every country has that option

I hope your country postal service is different from mine.

In my country, whatever the amount you assure the package for, if it gets stolen you have to demonstrate its actual value by exhibiting invoices, tickets, or any other fiscal notes. You are, in case, get paid for what it's worth, not what you paid on its assuration if you over-assured it. If you have no fiscal notes, then you get paid back absolutely NOTHING.

Back to the topic, I have been stolen of:

- three watches, 700 USD, by the Thai customs (according to TTK's word);

- two rare casebacks by someone between Oz and my country;

- two sapphire crystals by someone between my country and US. Recent and painful.

I confirm, sticky balls work very good. I use them as my tool on all oversized cases.

Only exception, extremely tightened cases.

BTW, Narikaa is giving one for free on any order.

Astounding work.

Sorry Rod, I missed your replies. I used to access this thread by "my last 10 posts" option in My Assistant, so when I posted 10+ more posts after it I just lost it out of sight and I forgot of it.

I was just keeping the stem tube in vinager -- the tube only, not the whole crown.

Your remarks make sense, but I have no clue on how to drill a stem at the needed precision level, and how to unscrew it after drilling it. Thanks for your kind offer, PM sent.

I also read that someone solved it by carving a small line in the broken stem so to make it resembling like a screw head, then using a tiny screwdriver on it. I suppose it was a 1.20mm stem, so a 1mm screwdriver could work. My stem is/was 0.90mm.

Great watches and pics!

Just, don't get too close to the fire if alcohol was a main ingredient of your blend.

Beautiful watch and wonderful shots!

It looks really good!

Perfect - thanks for replies. The watch is done now

Shame on you should you miss posting pics!

Not my cup of tea, but interesting. Thanks for the link!

Ask member Pix... he is an authority about HBB

Asian and "ETA" 6497 are completely interchangeable as a whole -- i.e. for their pin positions matter.

Latest Asian 6497 are gorgeous movements.

Hands and small seconds markers: SL pure C1.

"12", "6" and hour markers: SL 50% C1 + 50% C3.

TeeJay, thanks for the pics -- and you are absolutely right, that white small seconds hand is a shame.

I found I happen to have a black hand in my parts box. PM me your mail address and I'll send you it.

What about turning the speakers off?

Thanks, amigo I'll be sure to post some photos, as soon as I'm able. The swan neck isn't the dagger type, but needle-shaped. I'll be sure to include lots of movement shots when I do get the photos

Thanks, amico!

I need to electrify my caseback tools so I get shocked everytime I try to open up a caseback.

That's a wonderful idea! I am coming to the same conclusion.

Sure thing. Especially if the crown dissolves as well!

Great idea this thread, lani!

I never dared to work on a movement, but I tried almost everything else, and what I can add is:

1. DON'T TRY to work close to the border of your table. Work at least 30 cm to the center. Exactly near the border of any watchworker there is access to a black hole and/or 4th dimension. All your small bits are guaranteed to get swallowed there to never appear again. Carpet crawlers are hopeful persons, and a nice song by Genesis, nothing more unfortunately.

2. Use extreme caution when screwing a stem in a crown. A bit too strong, and the stem will not be the only one to get screwed there. It's unbelievable how a 1-2mm long, 0.90mm diameter, small piece of metal can make you throw away a whole crown, and possibly turn a whole watch in a source for parts.

3. On removing a crystal, always use the largest dye that fits the crystal.

4. If you are going to use a smaller dye, then after it use pliers, not your fingers, to remove the crystal splinters from the watch.

5. Close the cat(s) out of the door. They love watchmaking, but they hate to hear you yelling at the watch / tools / black hole / etc.

6. Always pretend you didn't hear your wife calling for dinner.

7. Check thoroughly for dust and fingerprints before putting the movement in and closing the watch.

8. Don't mistake the blower for the sticky ball.

9. Don't look at the UV lamp while curing a cyclops glue. And especially don't hope it will make you tanned.

10. Try to put attention on where you lay your tools down. Spending 10 mins on finding back every single screwdriver, or pliers, or whatever you used, is time consuming and frustrating.