sssurfer

Is it worth it or is this website designed for people like me who clearly don't know a lot about REP

The second guess you made.

BTW, welcome to the forum.

If you take your time reading the more you can here, you will soon know a lot about reps.

How about now?

GREAT!!!

I don't know how you did it, T., but really THANKS!

OOPS!

THE BUTTON IS BACK!!!

Yes, this happens in all my posts in all sections.

Yes, I just tried to login with my email address and I got a "Sorry, we could not find a member using those log in details" error message.

So, no clue about the missing button so far...

Uhm... just a guess...

before I left, there was an advice here announcing an upcoming change in the login procedure.

The email address was going to be used to login instead of the nickname.

When I came to the site today after my one-week absence, the site requested that I login.

I logged in in the usual way, i.e. with my nick sssurfer, not my email address.

Has the change in the login procedure become active while I was away?

Maybe this is the reason for the strange behavior of the edit button?

All my other supporter features are still working.

Thanks for your prompt reply, Admin and Vicky, but I can only confirm what i said.

Here is a capture pic of my first post on this thread, where you can see that the edit button is missing:

Admin(s), moderators, anyone who can help:

I have been one week away, and the 'Edit' button on my posts seems missing now.

English not being my motherlanguage, I used to make an extensive use of that button.

Please help -- or you wil hav to suffer an even worse English from me than before.

I will try and contribute as much as possible. Sorry if my intro was not the best.

I have been one of those who did not like your first post here. Apologies gladly accepted, and I am glad as well to add my welcome for you. Past is forgotten. Peace.

Nice!

And nice to see B&R heading towards sort of PAM too

Folks,

if you are speaking about the sandwich crystal, its measures are:

inner layer (flat) thickness: 1.41mm

outer layer (domed) thickness: 2.06mm at the center, 1mm at the edge.

So the assembled crystal is 3.47mm thick at the center, 2.41mm at the edge. Adding 0.03-0-04mm for the glue, we go to 3.5mm center, 2.45mm edge.

If you are speaking about single crystal, Jimmyzfu's crystals dimensions (which I suppose to be taken from a gen) are 3.6mm center, 2.8mm edge.

You can see this is a little thicker, but a little less domed, than the first.

OP official catalogues state central thickness for Luminor models as 3.5mm, with exception for the PR and chrono models that are 2.5mm. '1950' models (e.g. 212, 213) are 2mm thick. Radiomirs vary from 1.2mm to 1.9mm.

Diameter should be 35.5mm. This would fit 90% of 44mm reps. But I saw 44mm reps with crystals as small as 34.93mm diameter, and as large as 36mm.

In the end, my recommended dimentions for a sandwich crystal would be:

inner layer (flat, glass) thickness: 1.4mm

outer layer (domed, sapphire) thickness: 2.1mm center, 1.1mm edge.

diameter: 35.5mm

BTW, Lello told me he had a source for the inner flat glass layer of sandwich crystals. But that source got problems in making a neat hole for the cyclops.

Lello is working on a project for custom dials, kruzer.

Chief, if the rush is only on the underside of your wrist then it looks more related with the buckle than with the strap.

Bracelets are giving you the same rush, or not?

If it is the buckle, you might have developed an allergy to stainless steel (most likely to the embedded nickel), or it may be "just" a mechanical issue.

Arguments in favour of the mechanical hypothesis are if you recently gained weight, or if you recently made heavier physical work with your left arm.

Try to wear only Titanium or PVD buckles for a while, and/or to wear a SS buckle on your right wrist. If your left wrist recovers but your right wrist quickly develops a rush, than it is an allergy for sure.

Once you know whether it is an allergy or else, and what the involved matter is, you might figure a solution.

I was having a quite busy email exchange with DSN (in his own interest) a month ago, when he suddenly disappeared.

My last message did not require a reply, though, so I did not enquire furtherly.

Sssurfer is the only person I know who tried and actually got the crystals apart.

Well, kruzer, I actually was the 2nd to try it. Lello tried before me, and he also succeded in getting the two layers glued back together, while I failed. The glue I used raised tons of Newton rings.

Sssurfer-

Have you replaced a sandwich crystal with a single? I assumed the sandwich was thicker and so you would have space you need to fill between the crystal and the bezel/case and would need a new gasket.

The difference in thickness between the sandwich crystal and the single was negligible, W. The same teflon gasket worked perfectly on both.

Instead, the crystal + cyclops thickness was obviously much higher on the single, and it made me obliged to use a Watchmen cyclops (the thinner and most powerful cyclops I am aware of) in place of the original one.

That all happened on a Joshua's low-cost 104. A while later, Chieftang's single-side AR coating greatly improved the date readability by the Watchmen cyclops, and I recently managed to reshape the CG. That watch is still waiting for an archibald's datewheel layer, I plan to post pics of the final result right thereafter.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=209009

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=214485

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=22881

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=219628

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=273939

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=296129

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=53226

Besides of that... 089 comes in D, E, F, and G series.

If your 089 is D series, a 6mm cyclops is decent (evef if not perfect).

If it is E series, 6.4-6.5mm would be better. So a Chieftang cyclops (6.75mm) is acceptable.

On F and G series, go for a Chieftang cyclops no doubt. Just, you either need to make a brand new sandwich crystal or to replace the sandwich crystal with a normal crystal (recommended).

Where can you get Tritec SL? How much does it go for?

http://www.rctritec.com/index.php?id=13

sales@rctritec.com

Repair sets (1g powder + 1g varnish + 1g diluent + mixing pot and glass rod) were at 41 or 44.20 CHF each, depending on the color (C3 and natural: 41 CHF; C1, white and coloured: 44.20 CHF).

Plus 30-40 CHF shipping & handling, depending on your country (Europe 30, other countries 40).

Those were their prices on March 2007, at least.

Ask Elisabeth politely for one or more sets by qualifying you as an amateur/hobbist watchsmith.

Unfortunately, they were not taking credit card or paypal payments.

boxes etc don't do much for me personally, even though I just buy reps for me because I love watches and tinkering needed to get them just right, not to impress anyone...

Naturally I was not suggesting that you are one of those wearing reps to impress others, jmt.

those who buy reps to delight themselves, not to impress others

really pompous poseurs who are only fooling themselves into believing they have the real things

Interesting to verify how similar concepts can look different when expressed with different words.

I wonder if a little wax/polish may deepen the color a bit? And also give it a little shine that the genuine has?

Would be easier if it was disassembled, but how about some car wax?

Out of curiosity, what coating does the rep come with? Most dealers seem to imply that its genuine PVD. So I take it the rep does not have a PVD coating? What kind of coating is it? Just black paint?

Stay assured it is not black paint.

Considering how closely it resembles the gen (you may have a look at my BR review here) I think it is genuine PVD.

Possibly a thinner PVD, though, to give reason of its lower resistance.

Another possibility is it is black oxide. But black oxiding stainless steel is a hard process involving strong acids and very high temperature, I suppose it is not more economically convenient than PVD. So there would be no reason for the makers to use that black oxide instead of PVD.

Forget about modifying the PVD look by wax or so.

That is awesome... astounding... amazing!!!...

The only correct swan neck is the Asian one!

Here is the real thing from the OP website:

http://www.panerai.com/img/1/prodotti/dett...0_vista_3_g.jpg

Sad to notice that DSN's 6497 is the 'Swiss' type. I formerly thought it was almost perfect.

Thanks, Vaccum! Excellent comparison & review!

You made me realize subtle differences that I was not aware of before reading this thread of yours.

Thanks!

Just make sure to either put a Luminor in it, or to replace the screwdriver with a purple one.

And to leave out the -- argh! -- infamous "certifidato di garanzia internazionale"

Unofficially WELCOME BACK Andy!

De gustibus non est disputandum.