krbarnes

Yes it does have lugholes. My only complaint (and it's not a big deal at all) is that the tritium lume on the markers has completely died..... The bezel insert was replaced at the last service, so the pearl still glows!

Let's just say that this one isn't a rep. I picked this up locally from the original owner. It was purchased around here in 1995. It's a W-serial 16610. Had EVERYTHING with it - box, manuals, original certificate/paperwork, hangtags with serial nubmer, pricetag with serial number -- still has the original green sticker on the caseback. I've owned a WM9 V2, a WM9 V3, and a couple of other Sub reps, but I have to say that there is nothing like the real thing!

What do you think?

I've had a couple of gen Rolexes, and this same watch with a quartz movement. I always seem to gravitate back to this one. Just picked it up a couple of weeks ago.

My permanent daily wear. It's a gen I bout a couple of weeks ago.

you are right! I knew that! I just picked up a complete WM9/BK V3 case and bracelet (no movement/dial). I have a 2836 movement, but this case uses a 2824. just looking for a way to use what I have!

JMB, Don't mean to hijack your thread, but..... I want to install a 2836 movement in a case designed for a 2824. Do you think you could machine a spacer to fit between the dial and rehaut to move the movement down so that the stem/crown line up correctly? If I'm not mistaken, didn't you post something about this a while back?

Quick question for the group: If I purchase the DG2813 version of the Noobmariner (the $110 version), will a 2836-2 movement drop in this case? I already have a movement, Noob dial, datewheel, and hands for the ETA movement, but will the stem location line up? dial diameter? movement ring, etc??? Thanks in advance.

I have a gen DateJust, and the coronet on the dial has 1 leg of the crown (the one on the left) that isn't quit spaced the same as the others! I'm sure no one but me notices it. When I get the watch serviced I'll have someone nudge it over a smidge.

I'm looking for one without a cyclops ( for a no-date Sub project). My dial-indicator is in inches, and I converted to mm, so I hope those dimensions sound right.

I was trying to get the cyclops off of a crystal for a project I am working on (Rolex Sub related) and broke the crystal. I have the measurements ( 2.413mm thick x 30.5mm diameter). I'm looking for a NO-cyclops crystal to replace it. Any susggestions? I looked at Ofrei and Esslinger, but don't see a sapphire one the right size. Thanks in advance.

I'm working on a new build, and wanted opinions on using dial-dots to attach a dial to the movement. I want to use a no-date Sub dial (originally on an Asian 21j movement) on a 2836 movement. Do dial-dots work well? Thanks!

In a conversation with BK, he said that the V2 bracelet with it's 3-piece endlinks is correct for the Z-serial subs, such as his V3. The 1-piece endlink is correct for the M-serial sub. Just thought I'd pass that along.

Are there any movements that are a direct replacement for an ETA 2836-2? Stem location? Dial feet? Hand size? Any of the DG movements? Just wondering, or if I should hold out for an ETA movement for my cheap sub project.

WM9 doesn't make the V3, so that shouldn't interfere with the LV. The V3 is made solely by BK.

Here are a couple of shots of my V3 that arrived on Wednesday.

Here are a couple of shots of the crown position of my V2 compared to my V3 You can see how the crown is not centered vertically in the crown guards on the V2.

Not quite the same shot, but here's a post in 'BK's Watch Garage' section showing the difference in crown position. WM9 Crown Position

Mine is scheduled to be here today. It has been really tough not to discuss this on the board! I'll post pics as soon as it arrives.

yeah, it seemed to snap in OK, but it is loose. Should I use superglue? gorilla glue? GS Cement?a Should I sand the bottom a bit for better adhesion?

quick question: does a gen style bezel insert need to be glued to the bezel ring? I put this thing together and just noticed that the bezel insert will move/spin on the bezel ring.

OK, my "first build" has just been "re-built". I replaced the case with a WM9 V2 case set from BK, so here's what I have (so far!): WM9 V2 Case set with no rehaut engraving (this one has gen-style bezel, large crown tube) Clark Crystal ETA 2836-2 movement Noob dial and datewheel Watchmaterial bezel insert & pearl WM9 V2 Sub bracelet with hollow mid-links and solid end-links It doesn't look much different, but this case is much better than the old one.

Thanks guys. That's exactly what I was looking for. Just one more question. Is there a proper "rotation" for the bezel retaining ring (does it matter where he spring-wire is located? Is it normally around the 12 o'clock position?) I found this picture online. Is this the proper installation for the retaining ring?

I just received a WM9 case set from BK for my Sub, and ordered a Watchmaterial bezel insert, but here's my question: How does the bezel assembly go together. My old case had a totally different type of bezel, but the new one has a gen style. DO you place the crystal and gasket on the case, and then press the bottom bezel ring on to "fasten" everything? Anyone have any diagrams, or tutorials? Thanks!

I have a gen Rolex Datejust, but just got started "playing" with reps, and now I find myself picking my rep Submariner more often than my gen. Maybe it's just the fact that it's something I built, versus something I bought. (I don't DARE mess with the gen.) Anyone else have this problem? Here's my Gen Datejust (Black stick dial, smooth bezel, U serial #) and my Rep Submariner