Tjabo

Thoughts anyone? ? ? Would a picture, or measurement of the I.D. of the hole left in the bezel insert help? My current bezel insert is positioned properly and is still in good shape, so I kind of hate to pull it off and replace it if it isn't necessary. Thanks!

Yep, I've been a little intermittent on the board lately, and I was thinking we were trying not to post links or something, but I can't see how that would avoid any trouble I guess. . . So anyway, here is the movement picture for the "21j" version from Silix: http://www.silix-prime.com/images/upfile/chos003-3.jpg Here is the 7750 version from Josh: http://www.perfectclones88.com/cp10007-gra...bph-p-2788.html To each his or her own I guess, but I like these cheap plain jane (functionally anyway) Chinese movements, and I'm mystified by the cost of the 7750s.

I love my "Latest Version" PO I got from Silix several months ago, but the one problem I've had is that the pearl fell out of the insert. Silix was kind enough to send me a free bezel insert, but I'm a little apprehensive about replacing the whole insert on this beautiful watch, and I was thinking maybe I could just pop the pearl out of the new insert and glue it into the insert on my watch. Any thoughts? I read the main threads on what glue to use, and that only helped me a little since there seems to be a fair amount of variance in the suggested techniques and materials. Thanks in advance!

Hopefully I'm missing something obvious here, but I have a "21j" version that looks extremely similar to the one in this thread on order from silix, and and I'm worried because the last thing I want is another 7750. . . . I've had my fill of dealing with that movement from the ONE that I had (of course Josh caused me to deal with it a couple more times than I should have had to). So, is the "21j" version from silix a 7750 (that I was thinking were 25j?), or a more generic Asian 21j? Thanks! EDIT: Well, comparing the "21j" model at silix to the "21j" and "7750" ones on Josh's site, I see a couple of differences in the rotor bearing area and a couple of other slight differences (slight to me anyway) that eased my mind. That along with the crazy amount of extra money they get for those 7750s anyway. . . Is there any reason that those should be $220 more than a 21j that from my experience runs great? My 7750 was a noisy nightmare.

I've been denied when I tried, per the dealer's instructions, to use a description with the word "watch" in it. . . Same as above, I was shown the book with the prohibition in it when shipping to China. However, as with any other job, some know the regulations better than others. Also, as was also mentioned above, if it's not a watch, but something else, it may be okay. Since the one I was returning a couple of times didn't function as a watch (didn't tell time), I felt okay using a "more correct" description. At any rate, I'd first look for a jeweler to repair it (I can suggest one if you like, but off of the board), and if that doesn't work, good luck with shipping it back. It's a hassle!

I will add my experience that sometimes the e-mails don't come back quite as fast with Silix (not that this was the concern of the OP), but Silix is my favorite. As stated, the quality is fantastic, the price is great, and the treatment is top notch. They really try hard to make sure their customers are happy! Highly recommended!

Yeah, I have to say that when I saw these pictures of that watch I thought how spectacular it would look with a nice AR crystal. . . Then it would be REALLY sweet! As for Joshua including the correct caseback, I would call that a bonus, not a reason for being displeased. Just FWIW!

Nothing to say about the substance of this thread, but I just had to comment that this lume job is awesome! Tjabo

I am wearing a 45mm PO (regular ETA movement) from Silix this second, and it is BEAUTIFUL! ! ! I am honestly shocked by the quality of it, and for $150+shipping, it's amazing. Also, Silix is not the first of the high profile dealers I've dealt with, and I can say for sure that I'd deal with them (Silix) again next time without hesitation. If you need any additional specifics, please feel free to PM me. Tjabo

I guess the reason I think it is reasonable to expect a high level of reproduction quality is that these things aren't cheap! Sure, they are cheap compared to the genuines, but those are ridiculously expensive. A replica (COPY of the original, no development cost) with a movement that is almost free in China, and made of relatively inexpensive materials in factories with almost no overhead should be darn inexpensive! The other comparison that I think is valid is a comparison to other decent quality watches that aren't replicas. A couple of those I've seen are VERY high in quality, and the cost is less than our reps. A friend of mine was wearing a Citizen recently when I had on my rep, and we ended up trading watches for inspection. They were very comparable, other than the fact that mine had a significant flaw on the dial, and was on it's way to non-functionality. His, on the other hand, works flawlessly, and cost less. . . In short, I think we are entirely justified to expect good quality in both the reproduction, and in the workings, workmanship, and materials.

I can't look for it right now, but I could swear there was another thread on here that pretty much nailed down the fact that this crown information is not correct. The crown shown with the sharp gripping edges appears to be less correct than the crown with the flattened edges as on the rep. . .

I already feel like an idiot for asking this, but what happened to the crown? In the arm shots it's missing. . .

If I understand your other post that describes your services, this type of proper lubrication and adjustment job requires the full servicing (disassembly, cleaning, reassembly with proper lubrication, and adjustment) that is around $200 USD. Is that accurate? And then I think you are saying that the new version Asian 7750 chrono can be a real good movement, right? Thanks!

Is it possible that this issue is somewhat specific to that rep (IWC thingamajobwhatever)? Sure seems in that thread like a high percentage of them have been whacky, and I personally haven't seen many other reps with the new Asian 7750 reported as having problems while I've been surfing around here. . . . . Could it be?

That being a 100% subjective opinion, I certainly wouldn't take exception with it. In other words, I'm not sure whether I think it's a big concern or not, but if you do, it's no business of mine to suggest you might be wrong. My question was really meant to ask if you were sure that some nice genuine watches could be had for the $500-600 range, because I would definitely be interested in that. Back to your most recent question for a moment though, I guess my opinion is "maybe." The reason I say maybe is that in some cases I think it would be a pretty questionable thing to do, and in other cases, not so much. To me, it has a lot to do with which replica we're talking about. I guess if it is one of these Tags, they are accurate enough reps that they can almost be passed off as genuine, the genuines are in the price range where a person like me could actually buy one if he was so inclined, and yet the genuines still cost three times as much as the $500-600 amount in question for a modded or swiss movement rep. All of that taken together, I guess if I had to spend that much in the end to have a high quality, "genuine like" replica, it wouldn't upset me too awfully much. . . . Hope that makes some sense!

Are you sure?

So let's say you REALLY want the Tag (which it pretty much sounds to be the case for you, as it pretty much is for me), and after owning it for a few months (and loving it!) it craps out. What would it cost to get the movement replaced with a higher quality one, or get the stock movement fixed and serviced? That is a retty relevant question to me.

Joshua says it's not true. My belief that the blues were different was based on all of the pictures I've looked at, and looking at the Brazilian flag. It just seems that the blue in the flag, and all of the blues on the Senna watches are darker, less bright and vivid, than the standard version Tag Link Chrono 2006 version. I do like the vivid blue, but it's real hard to get a fix on any of this stuff without holding one in each hand and comparing side by side. I'm going out of town for a couple of days, so my goal is to arrive at a decision while I'm gone, and make an order this weekend!

Time for the stupid question Du Jour while I continue to wrestle with this choice. . . I'm pretty sure the Senna version dial is a slightly darker blue, is that correct? Assuming it is, I'm not sure what it means to me, but I guess it is one thing to nail down that might help me figure out what I'm doing! Thanks for your ongoing input! ! !

Wow, this is a tough decision. . . Hopefully my wife will have a clear preference, and then she'll be a little more "invested" in the whole thing. Hah hah. . . So, here's a follow-up question: If this is likely to be my almost sole watch that I wear other than when I'm working on a car, or working in the yard or something, would that change any of your opinions? Is the Senna version just a little too colorful for wearing with dress clothes or anything? Thanks again for all of your help!

Good to know. thanks! ! ! Tjabo

Thanks to all of you for your input! If anyone who has seen either version firsthand reads this, please let me know what you thought! I think I'm leaning toward the normal version because it just looks cleaner, but I'm still a little bit on the fence. . . Thanks again!

Hello all, I am pretty set on getting one of the two, but I'm a little torn on whether the additional color of the Senna version adds or detracts from the attractiveness of the watch. The standard version is certainly a classy and attractive watch. I was a big Senna fan though, so I wouldn't mind having that version if it looks as good or better. Can anyone say from seeing either or both of them in person which one is nicer to him or her? Sorry for rambling, I hope I made SOME sense! Thanks!

This watch looks GREAT, except for the date font in some of the pictures is just horrendous. . . . I think it was the numbers 9 and 21 in the brushed case models on the first page that were absurd. Are some of the numbers really that bad, or am I just seeing things that aren't really there? I guess it's not a huge deal to me if it's really just an issue with the brushed case models, because I REALLY like this watch in black dial Senna version! Tjabo

I assume this one (top of page 14 of this thread) isn't one of the ones she was actually going to send to someone, unless it only *looks* like there is a chunck out of the dial near the 3 o'clock position where the black meets the white bezel ring, but everyone who gets one of these might want to check and make sure they didn't get this one. . . Then again, it's odd to me that she would use a flawed example as an advertisement for her wares. If it didn't look like you can see the depth of the bezel ring in the gap between it and the dial, I would think it is just some photographical abberation or something.