sneed12

seem to have some odd number (~78?) of clicks? Every Rolex and Rolex homage I've ever had seems to do this, and the Omega Planet Ocean I picked up recently does as well.

I just put a vintaged 5513 up for sale...

I've never not been able to open a case with duct tape and/or the sticky ball. Just sayin...

Think these will fit an ICHS 2836-2? It looks like they will, but I asked the seller what the hand sizes were and the answer was "they are the normal sizes" http://cgi.ebay.com/WATCH-HANDS-FOR-ETA-2893-2-MERCEDES-GMT-SILVER-PARTS_W0QQitemZ310087882518QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4832ad9716 I bought some hands for another member but they turned out to be for the CHS version, not ICHS.

Cheswick, I PM'ed you about the hands/dial.

I wonder why the Asian ETA copy (it's even got the 2836-2 stampings, although it's obvious that it's a clone) had a different size for the second hand then? You can tell if you look at the movements side-by-side. Odd. Anyway, thanks, I had some other stuff I was going to order from Ofrei so I guess I'll just buy one.

I bought a PO with a broken movement. I had a spare 2836-2 and did a swap with the asian clone, and everything is fine except the second hand doesn't fit (the asian clone had an abnormally thick center post, dunno if that's the right name). Will the gen Omega part fit a stock ETA movement? Ofrei has it for only $18. http://www.ofrei.com/omega-watch-hands-caliber-2500.html#16904 Second one down, doesn't list the hand size. Anyone know if the hand sizes for the Omega 2500 caliber match the ETA 2836? Thanks. PS If anyone has one for a 42mm PO that they want to sell...

I bought a case + crown, got a good deal on it and just discovered why--the crown has a snapped-off bit of stem in it. If it was a motorcycle part I'd either use an easy-out or drill it, but I don't think either will work on something this small. Am I screwed?

Ya, I'm not going to buy it for that price, but I thought someone might be interested. Just sharing

Got it. Both movements are back to 100%. All it cost me was a scratched dial but I have another one on the way.

If anyone is looking for a movement donor, this guy on WUS is willing to take $80 shipped CONUS. Not affiliated just thought I'd share. http://forums.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?t=353996

I've sorted out everything on the one movement, and it's back in a watch and running... like a Swiss watch The other movement (the GMT) everything works except it's not hacking anymore... I'm hoping it's a simple problem like the first one, something slightly out of place. I've sorted out the crunchy noise (setting gear was in upside down) and all of the GMT bits are back where they go, and the handwind is working.

I just got my 5513 "project" back together--I bought it from another member, it had a problem in the keyless works. Eventually I'm going to use it for a milsub build, but for now it's stock. This is the first Sub I've had with the hollow-links bracelet. It's amazing how cheap and rattly it feels! How did Rolex get away with selling bracelets like this for 50 years? My Seiko bracelets feel like tanks next to this.

Got everything back together, and then managed to scratch the dial with my tweezers while Rodico'ing the dust off... what's the best way to repair/minimize scratches in a glossy black dial?

That did it, thanks. Now just to figure out the other one...

Found a tutorial thread, seems to confirm that I have put everything together right. Odd. Can anyone explain to me in detail how the handwinding mechanism works?

The GMT movement definitely has something installed incorrectly in the keyless, because it makes the noise even when I take off the gear that engages the hands (sorry I have no idea the names of these things). As far as I can tell, though, everything is the same as the other one. I think I also had that gear in upside down, which was why it wasn't engaging the hands in the 2nd click position, I think I have that fixed now.

I have two ETA movements in pieces on my desk right now. Both needed service after I was a lazy idiot and used a pin instead of a screwdriver to get the stem out. One is an ETA 2836-2 with GMT instead of day/date. I got it apart and back together and I thought I had all the keyless stuff in the right place. However, when I install the stem and try to set the time, it seems like some gears aren't engaging fully. I get a crunchy noise when I turn the stem one way, it slips when I turn it the other way. In one click seems to turn the date and GMT wheel, but with the strange noises I wasn't going to play too much with it. The other movement is also an ETA 2836 but without day or date wheels. It had the same problem, and I got it apart and back together without issue, but it no longer handwinds. It hacks, the datewheel turns in the first position, and the hands adjust in the second position, but in the fully-in position it will not handwind. I desperately need a picture of a 2836 taken apart, so that I can be sure that I've got everything back where it goes. I found the flash tutorial of the 2892 and it's been really helpful, but it's not exactly the same.

Would a bezel assembly fit? IE if I were to purchase both the bezel and the insert, would it fit on the case that I currently have? The bezel has some nicks in it too.

I just bought a GMTII that the seller says was originally from puretime. The condition is just a bit rougher than I had hoped, especially the bezel insert. Is it possible to switch the bezel insert? Where can I source a replacement? I've never tried to take apart one of these new style bezels, does it work the same way as the normal aluminum-insert sub? Thanks

I have a GMT Master II dial on the way and one of those Alphas in the box that I've been saving for this swap. Now that I'm getting ready to do it, though, I'm worried about the dial feet position. Do you know what movement the dial feet are for on your dials?