Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

tmg

Member
  • Posts

    2,050
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by tmg

  1. Amazing.. but I can't quite decide if they would look incredible or ridiculous on my wrist.. late 30's white boy.. slim build.. I feel you need to be 250 pounds, have a beard and wear a large hunting knife for some of those..

    Or your name would have to be Mick Dundee! :D

  2. For me the 7 days power reserve doesn't need to be actually working as long as the hand on the PR subdial moves back from 7 days to less and winding the watch will get it back to 7 days.

    More important will be the proper positioning of the PR subdial and the date @6 without sunken datewheels. And off course a dial with lume on the (thinned) 3, 6,9 and 12 markers.

    So we'll see........

    Ditto Scoobs!

    I have yet to own an IWC but this would be the one. Guess we'll wait and see.

  3. Hi. I've decided to build a grail watch... the 5517 as a franken. So, I need a bunch of pieces. I've got a cal. 1520, but need everything else. So, what would you guys recco for:

    case-- am thinking MBW 5512 case, but is that right?

    hands -- where to get?

    dial -- where to get?

    case back

    Thanks for your expert help!

    J

    The MBK case isn't correct, it has no fixed strap bars and the wrong markings, but if that's not that important to you drill the lugholes out and I'm sure some stainless bars could be soldered in place and voila!

    Dials and hands can be purchased for a 1520 from the usual suspects; Jewelry & Watch, Classic Watch Parts, or ND Trading. IMO I like the NDT 5517 dial the best.

    Good luck on the project and keep us updated!

  4. Thank you for the kind words Pete, Ubi and 356!

    Freddy, I do have more "weathering" planned for it. Funny, but it is actually more aged than it photographed. I guess its my lighting.

    I have a Wholesaleoutlet insert aged for it but have been too lazy to file down the underside of it to get it to fit in the bezel. I've also gone back and forth about changing it since I like the thicker font on the stock bezel which you see on the earlier 1675's. I've also noticed vintage examples with the drifting "6" and "18" on the bezel. Perhaps those are also aftermarket inserts??? -who knows with vintage Rolex :wacko:

    1675-3_1milSNsold1976-german_navy-1.jpg

    1675-69sn-III61-ExPt-tomvox1.jpg

    Borrowed from VRF

  5. That 5517 is too much, man! :wub: If I can ask, what did you use as the base for that? I am thinking of the same project myself. Did you use a 1520 cal. mvmnt? Which case is that-- an MBW 5512 case? I am dying to know the details?

    Thanks for the compliment JMT.

    Here are some details on my 5517. It's a J&W 5517 Vietnamese case, NDT dial, CWP bezel and insert with gen lume pearl. It did have a 2846 ETA fitted with MkII Watches hands but there were problems with the movement alignment in the case and a lot of stress on the stem which started rubbing the dial paint at the 3 o'clock and I had to disassemble it.

    So it looks like a gen 1520 is my best option :rolleyes:

  6. Hi guys,

    The current version of the Silix Bond Sub (Alligoats link) is a different thicker case, I believe a modern sub case without cg's. You can ask Jay and see if he still has the old stock available.

    I have a CWP bond sub bezel and it doesn't fit either of the Silix Bond cases, the bezel is much smaller than the case. What I do not know is if his 6542 bezel has different dimensions. NDT sub dial did not fit either case too, the dial was too small.

    I seem to recall RBJ was able to fit the CWP small GMT hand on an ETA.

    Haven't had any experience with Joshua's 1675.

  7. Pete, I hope this isn't thread crapping but your post is great. I just wanted to add a little of what I've done since we have parallel projects going. I eagerly await to see your redial from MY.

    I also softened the case edges to hide the slightly bulbous shape to the case sides that you notice the most on the lugs where they join the case -if that makes sense.

    Thin case shot and sanded down crystal profile

    DSCN5089.jpg

    With the shaved/thinned down bezel on a lathe

    DSCN5255.jpg

    Bezel reaming cuts are almost nonexistent after the shaving of the bezel. I haven't decided how to tackle that one yet.

    You'll also notice I went a little crazy with the countersink on the lug holes on this side of the case :bangin:

    DSCN5256.jpg

    DSCN5295.jpg

  8. Ricoh-R5-002.jpg

    thanks for looking ;)

    Wow, really great shot MC!!!

    That's the problem then. I was running solo with this.... Just me, and the camera with a timer...

    I think if I tried to explain the objective to my wife, I'd have some very strange looks.

    I hear ya Ubi -really not that easy to snap these. Heck, I can't take wrist shots either, which is why I rarely post them.

    I would get the major eye rolling from my wife if I asked for help.

  9. Why does it have to be either or... ;)

    I started out a gen collector also many years ago, I lost interest in watches for nearly 10 years. After discovering reps 2-3 years ago, I'm hooked again! Building and hunting for parts is half the excitement/fun, the other half is certainly the friendships and camaraderie I've made here. I've learned more in the last few years about watches than I ever thought I'd know.

    It has also allowed me to own fantastic representation of vintage pieces I've loved over the years but at a fraction of the cost. I'm in a current stage in life where I don't want to spend my money nor is it realistic to shell out for these gen items, and its not nearly as enjoyable as just going out and buying it!

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up