btocamelo
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Posts posted by btocamelo
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#1 is Roseanne Barr?
#2 is Aretha Franklin looking for a cheeseburger?
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most likely no...any overlay Andrew sends out will probably be for their 1680 dial...and that dial is not a 1:1 with GEN dial
will Andrew's overlay work w/ a 2846 and line up w/ a gen dial on a 1680?
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in the case of the new style bracelets with SELs.....you run the risk that the GEN SELs won't exactly line up tight on the inside lug holes of the REP case......it's easier to do this with non-SEL bracelets because the springbar and hollow endlinks are more forgiving
Unless you have a buddy with a newer style GEN Rolex that you can use to test the fit of the newer bracelet in REP case.
I understand having trouble picking up these vintage fitted bracelets, but what about modern bracelets like a 931500 for my new TW BK sub? Is ebay the only choice there? I have a noob sub bracelet coming that has hollow mid links and was going to try to do what chefcook did (fusing the two together -- taking the clasp and tight fitting end links from the bracelet that comes with the watch and installing the midlinks from the noob bracelet), but how hard would it be to get my hands on a genuine bracelet and what kind of $$ would I be looking at?
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somtimes I wonder if Yuki knows what he's talking about...or maybe he just has some low-income kid reading verbatim and answering emails
This adaptor ring to retro-fit an ETA 2824-2 / 2784 movement to fit into a genuine Rolex cases using cal.1570.
Thats right off the website. 2836 and 2824 are interchangable. They will both fit the adaptor ring.
The ETA Yuki dials are made to work with the stock ETA datehwheel so the datewindow position is further to the right than a real Rolex dial. Its in the same position as on a Tudor Submariner and also as stated above its the wrong shape also.
Dizz
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never mind, I already know the answer to my previous post...
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Only way to get that GEN movement for the 217 is if you busted up a GEN Destro....which model did you use?
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Few weeks ago, I dropped off the old 1675 at the Rolex AD....I took it without the 78360(580)bracelet...it was lost somehow
Well...I got the call back from the Rolex AD today....after they sent it to New York.
It seems all those years in 70's & 80's that my old man wore that watch and very little service....they said the midcase had some oxidation(pitting?) and they would not service it because they would not be able to pressure test it and guarantee waterproofing and warranty.
BUT...for a whopping $4100, they would do a whole new midcase, crown, tube, overhaul.....$4100!!!!
OPTION #2
They would install a new bracelet and endlinks for $575.00.....no service, no nothing........obviously the AD wants to make some money, so she tells me that her watchsmith could give an estimate on an overhaul....probably about $400 to do an overhaul....which obviously they are going to want to drop in a new crown and tube, plexi, etc...
So I figure $575.00 is not a bad price to pay for a brand new oyster bracelet.....I'm hoping it is 78360 w/580 endlinks!
Ahhh...you gotta love Rolex Service......
But I am worried about the midcase....I'll open it up once I get it back.
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yep...GEN 127 & 217 cases are Front-loading....bezel and crystal pop off...movement is loaded top-side....the cases that EL put out for 127 & 217 are constructed the same way.
Wolf....don't you have a small Sub to go down 5atm in Lake Michigan for water proof testing???
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I saw your pics....LOL
I've been saying this about the h-factory bezel since mid January but doesn't look like it registered.
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Trust me...you get the 219 in your hand and it is a stunningly well made case set....even the crown guard lever looks better finished than the GEN CG...look at the photos.
The bezel on the 219 has a notch for removal, like the old front loading cases on the 127 & 217.....I'm not sure if this is how the newer GEN case/bezel assembly is made.
Even the lug screws on the 219 are exceptional...they are the proper length and when fully seated, they are flush on both sides.....none of that sunken lug screw syndrome that has always plagued these REP cases.
Great comparison. I have not seen either of the reps in the flesh but the 111 looks vastly superior. I do have a question for the 219 owners though. Does it have a normal bezel construction. It looks very odd coming off the case - almost like it is one piece with the case or a different way of seating on the case.
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The 219 actually has a small notch under the bezel...like the old front loading EL cases. I'm not sure if the 005 has it as well, probably does since it's same case, same factory.
You can see the notch in the first photo.
I haven't taken the 219 apart to verify it's construction....but it does have that cool looking notch.
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How about The "Fauke Me I'm Wearing a Franken" Franken?
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LOL....I missed that "hockey puck" method...you have it posted somewhere?
I guess the main detail to be aware of is if the crystal/cyclops is in proper position before pressing the ring.....it sucks to press down that ring, then mount the movement and notice that the cyclops is a hair up/down from the DW......
how to insure proper position of the crystal?
Apply silicon grease at the bottom outside edge of the crystal, after pushing it onto the case. Put some more on the inside face of the ring, and heat the ring too hot to touch. Then press that bad boy on there. I can push mine onto my 1665 with my bare hands and two hockey pucks using this method.
Warning: if it's too tight, it will crack and/or stress fracture the crystal.
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man that's nice....I'm in the same boat with my 1570 movement and trying to look for a decent 1680 midcase (see that Yuki's recent offering is not working)
1. where did you source the GEN bezel assembly and retaining ring?
2. the crown looks "REP"...the coronet doesn't look right for the period?....wouldn't a 700 or 702 be better suited?
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yep...it even has the screw tubes in each link, just like GEN bracelet, best Rolex REP bracelet made......GEN YM bracelet is not going to be any better, and it will cost you a leg and left nut.
It will fit. Not shure why you want to do this tho, the BKWM9 Yachty bracelet is spot on.
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cannot send you PM...says you cannot receive messages...send me photos of what you have and photos of the inside of the case.
This.
Which is why I originally purchased my old-case MBW 1680, but ran out of money on the project. I planned on listing it for sale soon, but I'd rather sell it to someone who's going to do a bad-ass build with it; so you can have first crack at it. It's a complete watch with some gen parts though, and I'm not going to part out just the case. 1:1 with the 5513, and "Polex" between lugs. PM me for more info if you want it.
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Thanks for the input...I have a clean/serviced 1570...I'm just weighing my options on a build....preferably a date model.
I can't say about the newer MBW cases, but the older MBW cases both the "original Polex Design" 5513 case which was the standard case for the old 1680's as well as the old MBW 1665 cases would accept a genuine movement. It might require some milling, but obviously it isn't an insurmountable problem. Quite a few are around among forum members. I have one in the build process right now using an old MBW 1665 case and a genuine 1570 movement.Maestro The Zigmeister is building mine.
It would be a whole lot cheaper to find and old MBW case over any of the above mentioned aftermarket cases. I know that Phong cases are really nice, and you can get serial numbers that you want engraved, but as you said 1k for a 1680 case, WOW.
At todays prices for movement, dial, hands crown/tube bezel and insert w/ a nice tritium pearl,93150 bracelet and 580 end links, you would be way better off finding a nice 1680 white on the VRF market. I'm seeing them in the 4-5k range over there almost on a daily basis. Occasionally you can find a beater for less than that. If you get tired of it or want to upgrade, it's pretty easy to get your money back. Try that with a franken. Ask a few of the folks here that have tried selling "almost genuine" watches on the sales forum. probably would have to part it out to get anywhere close to what you had invested in the watch.Sales avenues are very limited, and the market here for a 3.5k watch is infinitesimally small. In looking over sales postings, and my recent experience selling a WM9/BK v3 16610 submariner, once the price gets up around 1k and over, the number of potential buyers shrinks tremendously. Not trying to discourage your idea, just some food for thought.
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looks great....that's interested about those MBWs, I was under the impression that the larger GEN movement would not fit into the case for ETA...and the inner mounting slot is not the same, also stem alignment would be off?
Are those MBW cases available...maybe from Reg?
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One of the left is MBW case...on the right is GEN
Those MBW cases are machined for ETA movement...so dropping in a GEN movement is out of the question.
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my comment about the steel stems from Phong marketing his case steel as better, using 316 and also better machined...whereas Yuki uses poorer stainless and less QC...hell, even the Cartels use 316 on their REP Rolex...
but you're right....it's nitpicking about the steel, especially a vintage type case...which should really look like it's 40 years old.....
the real issue is the best 1:1 fitting and finished case....which I know Phong has the closest, and Yuki's is somewhat lacking, but cheaper...at least from comments here.
unfortunately we are limited in case sets that will accommodate a 1570
Why are people so concerned about the steel composition of their case? No one & I mean no one can tell the difference, visually, between the steel used to make a good rep 5513, 1680 or 1665 & the 316L Rolex used. In fact, with the possible exception of the brushed texture (which often looks better on reps), I cannot distinguish between my oldest, cheapest POS Sub rep case & my gens. Unless you plan to use your watch in an acid bath (in which case, 904L is definitely the way to go), I fail to see what all the hullabaloo over steel composition of rep/aftermarket cases is all about?
If you are talking about a modern Rolex, which uses the slightly whiter 904L steel, then you might have a point. But, even then, very few people could ID a rep case without having the gen on hand for a direct comparison. I certainly would never put any money on my ability to identify the steel composition of a vintage Rolex watch on the street.
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correct Chiman....I was thinking of 1960 Rolex....here's some info. I have read
- Rolex watches from 70's used 316L stainless...
- old Rolex from 60's or before used 304L stainless
- 316L (similar to 304L) but has 2-3% more molybdenum added, which provides more corrosion resistance than 304L
- then in mid 1980 switch to 904L, which contains more nickel and is 3x more expensive
- 904L would be better for people that have more acidic sweat, or maybe expose the Rolex to seawater where can cause more corrosion between bezel or caseback
Yuki states that he uses "normal stainless"...but he would not confirm 304L or 316L
I can tell you for certain...Phong bashed the hell out of Yuki cases...saying that his recent steel is inferior and the machining is poor quality compared to his.
I have heard of great finish experiences with Phong 1655 cases..but you are talking about $1000 for the complete case set if you are able to get the guy down that low.....for a 1655 build this is worth it, but I'm not sure for a 1680 build....betweem GEN 1570 movement and Phong caseset....looking at $2K to $3K depending on other parts like dial and bracelet.
I have not seen anyone here build using an NDTrading case set?
I'm quite positive that Rolex used 316 until the late 80's then they switched to 904
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Ok.....so if you were to drop in a GEN 1570 movement.....which 1680 case set would be the most recommended? Any expert advice or insight on fit and finish would be great.
PHONG???...most likely expensive...BUT...he claims to use true 316 Stainless.....which others (Yuki) does not.....now, I know those old style cases, Role GEN did not even use 316...but it is a better stainless
YUKI watch???......he will seem to be the least expensive.....BUT....is his case better finished than others???
NDTrading.....I don't know much about their case sets....but I do see they are more expensive than Yuki....and slightly less so than Phong.
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the older smallish Breitling Chrono Cockpit....I have similar watch....I believe it has a 289x base with a 3-6-9 chrono module: http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
the original Gevril Chrono I mentioned...I also have this watch...it is a 2824 with DD chrono modules at 3-6-9: http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item53e5ccc671
I was looking into the possibility of using an ETA with attached DD module. I don't think the 2824 will work though, as from what I have been able to research, the 2020 chrono module is only set up for 6 - 9 - 12 configuration. For a tri-compax style chrono with running seconds at 3, the only option I have been able to source is the 2892-A2 with a DD 2021 on it.
And as Bike Mike pointed out, servicing it will prove a little difficult.
If only I could find a gen Breitling B36 movement that would solve my issue, but they are very, very difficult to source.
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here...check this guy out with the 2824....maybe you can find the spacing of the DD chronos
granted the 2824 will be thicker than the 289X movements by almost 1mm
Rolex 24-703 ID
in The Rolex Area
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yep...lack of crimp marks on the inner edge of the teeth....these aftermarket crowns are probably cast?
Also....I like the old style coronet on the crown......although I have heard that the coronet style on your crown (with thin crown spikes) is also seen in newer GEN crowns.