wtchgk

I think Domenico services these watches. At least he did in the past.

Does anyone do AR on Portuguese crystals in the US? I think chieftank once did, but is there anyone else doing it on a regular basis when needed?

Does the rep have two chrono hands? Or, will you see right away it's fake once you start the chronograph?

Thank you very much for your replies. I am well aware that a service will mostly likely solve the problem, but I am really curious about possible failure mechanisms aside from dirt and improper lubrication. In case you want to know, I eliminated the column wheel (oszillating pinion) and clutch as the cause. So it seems that maybe not enough power is being generated and/or there is too much chronograph wheel friction. The parts driven by the chronograph wheel move freely. I do have a feeling that the main spring is contributing because I can wind it for a long time without ever feeling strong resistance. However, you may also be interested in hearing what triggered all this in the first place. By now I received several watches that either were DOA or only partially working. All came from trusted dealers that claim to do good QA and I am reasonably confident that besides sending pics they test at least all functions of the watches before they ship. So what happens during transit that causes these watches to fail? In one case I found that a moving and a non-moving part were 'baked' together and stopping the watch. My best guess is that this was caused by exposure to extreme heat (120+F/50C) during transit in the Southwest US.

I have encountered the following problem on more than one A7750. The chrono stops when activated and stops the movement with it. Shaking the watch sometimes gets everything moving again, but then it stops again around the point where the minute counter is advanced. If I loosen the screws of the automatic device bridge a bit the chronograph works fine. (Obviously, operating any buttons in this state would risk jamming the chronograph mechanism and possibly damaging delicate parts.) I wonder if especially the watchsmiths have found whether there is a single culprit that is mostly causing this.

Please comment. I want to upgrade a 177M with a Swiss 6497 movement from DSN and I am considering swapping some bridges from the DSN movement with those from the 177M H factory movement. Specifically I want to swap all bridges with the exception of the balance assembly. The font of the engravings on the H factory bridges seems more accurate to me. And the balance assembly of the DSN movement has the correct incabloc. The finish of the bridges on both movements appears to be sufficiently similar so that the mix will not be noticeable. Some pics follow. DSN movement is on the left 177M movement DSN movement DSN incabloc

Which watch I favor depends on the occasion. For practical reasons I wear the 3717 with the bracelet most of the time. However, I generally prefer a leather strap. It just does not feel that comfortable all day long especially in hot weather. The top gun I like for casual, sporty occasions. The genuine ETA movement is a 7750. I don’t really need two. However it is convenient, albeit over the top, to have one with a bracelet and one with a strap. But since you asked, this is how I ended up with two. I first got the V3. I liked it and thought it would be worthwhile to get a genuine ETA 7750 movement. I had read somewhere that the V1 of the watch supposedly has a low beat movement that is fully compatible with the genuine ETA movement. So I ordered a V1 with a bracelet thinking that I might keep or sell the first watch. By the way, the V1 I received was really a V3 maybe with a slight difference in the AR. I cannot tell for sure. But it came with a high beat movement and the hands had to be modified anyway to fit the ETA movement.

Finally they are all done. Take a look 3717 V3 - high beat A7750 (one that functions exceptionally well) - ETA day/date wheels - genuine alligator strap from the watch boys 3717 - genuine ETA movement - ETA day/date wheels - taka AR top gun V1 - serviced high beat A7750 (calendering plate and associated parts replaced) - V2 strap and buckle

T as in t-crown sells tubes, but I don't know if they fit the 111j. Also, I am sure the info is somewhere, but can you please provide some info on how to remove a tube?

Since the crown is spring-loaded, it appears that the spring in the crown absorbs all the force when you push the crown in as much as you can and that there is not enough pressure on the stem to overcome the resistance the stem encounters when it moves from the setting to the winding position. You may be able to cross the threshold by turning the crown and trying different positions as ugoderosa suggested , but if that does not work, then it is probably necessary to look a the workings and interaction of crown, gasket, stem and tube.

With the crown pushed in, have you tried to close the lever to see if it clicks to the winding position? You could also try to pull the crown out and then push it in very hard with both your index fingers, one above and one below the CG in order to keep the force symmetric. If that does not work, then solving the problem may get more complicated possibly involving the crown gasket, the position of the crown on the stem, and possibly the tube.

Enjoy!

Pam 089

Is your statement about the date changing before the day correct? And if so, what am I missing? I recently assembled a movement following the ETA assembly procedures and the day changes before the date. I was surprised because all my Asian movements changed the date first and then the day when I received them. I took a closer look at the geometry of the movement and the ETA assembly procedures and it seems that according to the procedures the day indicator driving wheel moves about 5 degrees ahead of the date indicator driving wheel (towards hitting the teeth of the day and date wheel respectively). In addition, it appears that the spacing of the teeth of the day indicator is slightly more dense than the spacing of the teeth on the date wheel. So it would seem that according to these procedures the day should change before the date.

The holes for the double screw bars on the DSN case are about 2.2mm, and as far as I can tell the holes on the gen case are about 1.8mm. Therefore it appears that the OEM bars you are suggesting may not look right on the DSN case because there would be much play. Am I missing something?

Appreciate your comments. What is the proper size of the lug holes for OEM double screw bars? Thanks. I did the mods. Who is m8? Yes, the case came with double screw bars.

Thank you for your comments and suggestions. These are the specs: - DSN case - DSN dial and hands - SL T crown - torobravo CG, heavily modded though - Jakob caseback - Don strap Additional mods already on my list: - FGD dial (hope Simon will make more) - FGD hands (aready have those) - Swiss movement Will add the specs to my original post, if I can figure out how to edit it.

What do you think?

Great, please add me to the list if I'm not already on it.

Was typing while you were posting ... completely agree with your post

You may wish to check out DSN (Davidsen), he is a dealer on this site. I have a 177H with swiss swan neck movement from him and two other models. I am happy with these watches. If I am not mistaken, Sead (supermirrors), a dealer on repgeek, also sells several versions of the 111 with different levels of mods. If you are new to reps please do your homework regarding the flaws of models from various dealers and then take into consideration that there will probably also be variations in quality of a particular model from a particular dealer. I find it important to have realistic expectations when buying reps.

As I see it, if the crown and tube were contructed as is shown in case B of my sketch, then that would solve the cg problem. As I mentioned before, the CG lever is essentially flush when it is unscrewed or taken off the case. Therefore, if the crown and tube were constructed as in case B of my pic, then the lever would move the spring-loaded crown towards the case and would stay fixed at its pin and thus be flush with the CG body.

Drulee, seraphe thanks for your replies. I realize, I should have been more clear. Primarily, I try to understand the correct construction of the tube and crown combination. I include a rough sketch. Case A shows the situation with my watch. When the crown is in winding position, it sits directly against the tube. When the lever gets closed it cannot move. I am wondering whether the diameter of the tube and the 'dish' on the case-side of the crown should be such that the crown can move a bit over the tube when the lever gets closed as shown in case B. My thinking is this: if B is correct then the problem could be due to manufacturing tolerances and getting a matched tube and crown would solve the problem properly.

Yes, the lever is flush when the CG is unscrewed and I understand that what you are suggesting is an option for fixing it. However, I am still trying to understand how this is supposed to work. Isn't the purpose of the spring-loaded crown that it can move and press the gasket tight when the CG lever is being closed?

Hope someone can help out who knows how the crown and CG on the gen work. By know most of you know about the problem that the GG lever on some of the new watches sticks out too much near the location of the pin. I am trying to understand the problem and options to fix it. When I take off the CG then the lever is reasonably flush with the CG body. On my new watch, the crown, specifically its outer rim on the side of the case touches the hex tube. So the Crown cannot move when the CG lever is being closed and what gives is the lining of the pin hole of the CG and therefore the lever gets pushed out. The crown does have an indentation on the side of the case where a gasket is located. My specific question is this: Shouldn