Sharkbait

For me, the reason is a little more practical. I have spent a lot of money on gens over the past five years. I see a watch and think that I will "love" it. After wearing it for a couple of months, I find that it really didn't "do it for me". So I sell it in the secondary market and lose a few hundred dollars. Then I discovered the world of reps. Now I can buy a rep of something I think I will like. Wear it for a couple of months and if I do in fact like it, then buy the gen. If I am not happy with the watch, I only lose the $200 or so that the rep cost. In the long run I am better off. Until I discovered what rep collecting was all about, I was one of those with their nose in the air regarding gens. I couldn't understand why anyone would spend the money on a rep. Now that I have come to the realization that there are several reasons to own reps, I look at the whole rep market in a different way. Of course there are those who buy the reps to deceive others, but there are many more people who own the reps for some very good reasons. I want to openly thank the members of RWG for opening my eyes to some of those reasons.

1. SeaDweller 2. Sean at ETA Swiss 3. Yes/Yes

That is useful information. I make several purchases from Amazon each year. Certainly no problem to access via RWG and allow a pass through credit. Any other sites where you have a similar arrangement?

These are the Rolex prices, the price increase in US effective yesterday, 1 Oct.

114270 Explorer $4,250 16570 Explorer II $5,000 116713 GMT Master II $8,925 116718 GMT Master II $22,750 16710 GMT Master II $5,075 14060M Submariner $4,525 16610 Submariner Date $5,175 16610V Submariner Date (anniversary edition) $5,525 16613 Submariner Date (steel/18k) $7,825 16613 Submariner Date (Serti Dial) $9,975 16618 Submariner Date (18k) $23,100 16600 Sea Dweller $5,375 16622 Yacht Master 40mm (steel/plat) $8,325 16623 Yacht Master 40mm (steel/18k) $8,675 168622 Yacht Master 35mm (steel/plat) $7,800 168623 Yacht Master 35mm (steel/18k) $8,000-mens, $7,900-ladies 169622 Yacht Master 29mm (steel/plat) $6,900 169623 Yacht Master 29mm (steel/18k) $7,100 116520 Cosmograph Daytona $7,900 116523 Cosmograph Daytona (steel/18k) $12,675

It's possible than one is measured in the standard way, 8:00-2:00, across the case. The other has been measured to include the crown/pushers. Other than that, I have no idea why there would be a difference.

That watch's bracelet came with the fold over end links. The bracelet for the SeaDweller of the same period came with soldi end links.

Not a racing style, but does have the orange accents. http://www.globalwatchband.com/items.php?group=56 Drop down to the second offering. Price is reasonable. Match it with a deployment clasp and you would have a great band, IMHO. J

Ken: In the US it is marketed as NEATSFOOT OIL. I used it for years on my baseball gloves. It is also used on horse's tack and such. As it comes from the hoves of cattle, you should be able to buy it in Australia. Be advised, however, it does tend to darken tan and brown leather.

I notice that the egos over on TimeZone's Rolex Forum decided your comparison wasn't worthy of their forum. Too bad. I found it to be very informative and well thought out.

I use the Bergeron 5444 satin finish polish block. Works well on my gen Rolex Oyster Bracelets.

I was told, by a fellow who did this type of mod, that he put the dial and hands in a tank (A fish tank?) and then some incense sticks. He let the smoke from the incense darken the dial/hands. I have never tried to do this and am just repeating what he told me.

The problem, as I see it, is that the reduced Speedy and the SMP are not what you were looking for to begin with. The next problem, again as I see it, is you need to decide exactly what it is you want. You have a Breitling Seawolf and a Speedy Pro on your wish list. Both great watches, but designed for two different uses. If it were my decision to make, and obviously it is not, I would be looking at the Speedmaster Pro and put the dive watch on the back burner for a while. Inexpensive dive watches are very easy to find. Quality chronographs are another story. Emphasis on QUALITY. In the end, you will wind up doing what is best for you. Good luck in your search and your decision.

IF I were a dealer, I would be very concerned that this guy would be one would filed a PayPal complaint over the late delivery of something purchased. Anyone too cheap to pay $5.00 to sell a group of watches is someone I would not want to deal with, if I were a seller.

The problem with recommendations from us, is you get suggestions based on what WE like. Go to a dealer and try on all three. See which one moves you the most. Which one will fit your lifestyle? Based on the prices you posted, my guess is the Sub and DJ are NIB and the SD is slightly used. Are you comfortable with a used watch? No reason not to be, but some people don't like to go that way. Do these watches come with the boxset and papers? While not important on the surface, could be very important to you, money wise, when or if you decide to sell down the road. That said, all things equal, papers, boxsets, etc. If the decision were mine to make, I would go with the SD. I am not a fan of the cyclops. Also, if at all possible, sell your 15000 outright rather than trade it in. You will, more than likely, receive more money for it that way. Watch dealers are like car dealers. They want to make money on both ends, new and used. They are not there to do you any favors. Hope this helps your decision.