ww12345

Should just the datewheel "overlay" (in reality, the WSO datewheel) just be thinned on the bottom? I wonder if thinning the original Zodiac datewheel might cause some problems with the changing of the date. So, in bullet points: *Strip the teeth off the new datewheel *Thin the bottom of the new datewheel until ample clearance is provided *Glue it to the top of the Zodiac Datewheel, ensuring that numbers line up where possible. Am I missing any steps? I understand keeping some secrets, but am I at least going in the right direction?

Ronin, I just looked up the gen hand sizes for the 1570/1575 calibre. It shows that they are 80/120/20. I assume this is 120 for the hour, 80 for the minute, and 20 for the second, is that right? If so, couldn't the Yuki handset that comes with the 1675 dial be broached ever so slightly to fit the Zodiac movement? I have also seen 80/130/20 listed as handset sizes. However, I assume the numbers you gave me were from the Zodiac movement, correct? Thanks for your help. I'm pretty new at this!

I thought about the 2893, but decided on the Zodiac because it didn't have problems with hand clearance. I didn't know you could buy the parts to lift the hands at CousinsUK. On the other hand, couldn't I broach gen-spec hands to fit the Zodiac hour, minute and second hand pinions just about right? I really hope that I haven't bitten off more than I can chew. I heard it said on this very forum that 1675s aren't for the faint of heart. Hopefully I will come out on the other end (with LOTS of help from JMB) relatively unscathed. Chiman, what else should be done to get the new datewheel on? I was under the impression (as JMB was) that you just filed the old down enough that you could glue the other datewheel on, and raise the dial just a hair to get everything to fit. Are we missing something huge? Thanks for all the responses. I will be sure to post pics when it is all finished.

One thing you may need to do is sand/dremel the crownguard side of the case. It is notoriously too thick, and very noticable if you have the 1655 bezel; it may not be as bad with the 1675 bezel, as I have never tried that yet. Check out some gen pics on VRF or the like. They can be very helpful to pin down the tiny details!

Too late! I already got it... One of the main reasons I decided on this was because the final price - $265 - was still under the price of a 2893-2. Also, like you said, the GMT hand is darn near Rolex specs, and I knew that the 2893 wouldn't be. I figure if I have to service it, it will still be worth it to have the almost-spec GMT post and Datewheel that turns in the right direction. One question, though - what kind of datewheel should I get? I don't assume that an OEM datewheel from Rolex would fit... would it? Thanks again for the help!

Would either of these ebay auctions provide an acceptable donor for a 1675 project? http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Zodiac-SS-Aerospace-GMT-Automatic-Found-/370528187262?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item564533737e#ht_4320wt_1185 http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-mens-Zodiac-Aerospace-GMT-Automatic-w-Date-NR-/110717706074?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item19c74a1f5a#ht_500wt_969 I think that this watch has either a Zodiac 86 or a Zodiac 76. Anybody know where to get Zodiac 75B movements without selling your soul? Thanks for the info in advance!

So is this not the "Bond" watch everyone is talking about? lol

I remember doing this when I got my first watch with a date function - bugged the heck out of me until it dawned on me that I could set the time 12 hours ahead!

This joke never gets old...

The Josh 5512 Sub is a good starting point. However, the crown guards are very short and stubby. With some aging, they can come out looking OK - if not a bit overpolished. A must is drilling out lugholes, though. That is probably one of the biggest tells. I can't think of anything wrong with the movement, provided you get the 2836. The movement is very durable and accurate. One plus of the Josh case is the fact that it takes a gen dial. Another plus is the fact that it uses gen construction. Underneath the bezel is a bezel ring, which, when removed, provides access to a gasket space. If you install the gasket here, and in the space in the caseback, it should be pretty waterproof. A gen crown ($50) and a Clarks or Cousins Crystal will make a huge difference as well. Here's some pics of mine. I went the 5513 route, but that was just dial preference. The build was on a Josh 5512 case. (Thanks to JMB for the mod work!)

I just got an Explorer 1016 back from JMB for mods, and one of the mods he did was to drill out the bracelet to put 2mm springbars in there. It didn't appear to make the bracelet sit at a different height for me, and it feels pretty sturdy...