ww12345

Puretime is an OK dealer. I have never had any problems with them personally. As far as the watch, I believe it is ICHS, if that sort of thing matters to you (I know it would to me!). Should be OK as far as timekeeping, though. I think it is a 2836 with the GMT module, which has been known to be a bit sketchy as far as long-term function.

The GMT hand is definitely vintage gen. All newer GMT hands such as RSC replacements are non-fade, and a brighter orange. You can see on the arm of this one that it is starting to fade. Additionally, all rep GMT hands do not have the "wider at the base, narrow at the tip" look of the hand, but are usually rectangular. I believe that the Frog foot coronet is appropriate for a straight second hand, and the text lines up properly. It is not an aftermarket dial. I think that the weird look of the 22, 24, and 2 is a result of the lighting and the sunburst of the metal. If it were an aftermarket case, I think there would be more problems than there is with it. When you think about it, you have three known gen items: Dial, hands, and movement. That alone is worth quite a bit, and I don't think it would be cobbled together in the possibly gen case for the sheer fact of trying to "pull one over." Also, about the lack of appropriate documentation, remember the key to vintage Rolex seems to be "Never say Never." Looks like a fine watch!

Starting out, I would go with an MBW and make either a 1680 or a 1665. There is a thread here about someone's 1680 white that looks pretty darn close to gen! I believe High (can't remember full user name) sells MBW cases. From there, you could get an Ingod dial, gen crown and tube, gen insert, JMB retaining ring, and still be way under the price of a used gen.

Yes, that too! I can't figure it out - are their "expert" appraisers blind or just stupid? I think the collective voice of this forum could do a better job than they do. Maybe we could put in an application - you know, split the profits all around...

Quality of the DW cases is awesome, as far as the Daytonas. His stuff is pretty close to gen; I guess you have to do some work to get gen parts to fit with rep parts, but other than that, his stuff is really good. I don't know if he is out of the business, though. I read some places that he is finished for good, other places that he is still going. :S

Right. Those are "custom" pieces, LHOOQ, not some run of the mill, mickey-moused watch like your 5512!

That's what I thought. I don't think they sell reps at Antiquorum, though!

Wait, is this gen or rep?

No offense, but you have lots of reading to do. As to your first question, though, the Swiss is usually always better IMHO because it is easily serviced. Usually, the Swiss will have a smoother sweep, as well (being a higher beat). Are you looking at a newer or older Daytona? Nothing wrong with the vintage ones as far as movement is concerned. However, the newer leave a lot to be desired. One last piece of advice: Save what you would spend on your entry level Sub and put it towards a BK, if that is what looks the nicest to you. I blew about $500 on my first order - all A21js, and regretted it ever since. I realized that only higher end stuff would please me, and I never wear the A21js any more.

Great find!

http://www.1-pc8838.com/0rlsd00078-classic-dweller-p-11801.html Anybody notice that the pics have been updated? I wonder if they are just excessively Photoshopped or if they really look like that...

I would love to see your results, watcher. I'm also curious to see if they fixed it in that short period of time. However, I assume (and hope) that a better version will surface after CNY.

Is the rehaut a bit wokky for anyone else? I don't know how straight down the rehaut should be on this model, but it looks a bit like the rehaut was cut too big...

Is there any problem with the new ones? I am about to pull the trigger on a brand new 5513 MBW provided it can be used as a franken base...

I actually don't have an MBW case yet. I am in the process of getting one, and I couldn't remember if you needed to get a 1680 case vs. a 5513 case in order to use a gen dial. I think 5513 dials are smaller than 1680 dials, and I am he11-bent on using this gen dial! The case set I have right now is the DW case I bought a few months ago. It works fine with a non-gen dial, but the gen dial is just too small!

I seem to remember that MBW 5513 case sets were usually from 1680s and then used as a 5513/5512 case set, is that correct? I am trying to build a franken 5513, and the gen dial I am using is falling through the rehaut of the case I have now. What MBW case set should I be looking for to build a decent 5513? Thanks in advance!

Any apps like this for Android?

Hmmm... I guess the lugs look OK. Something still looks funky. The bezel appears to be slightly tall, and the drilled lugs look huge. Paging 1016 expert, Dr. LHOOQ.

That looks slightly overpolished. Without a side shot, I can't tell, but the fact that the endlinks are taller than the lugs is not a good sign.

A SD? Not a chance. I've got the skinniest arms in the US and a SD doesn't look bad on me at all. Now a DSSD, that's another story!

No, MBW is not Watch International. The only person I know of that can source them is Narikka (I don't know that he is a trusted dealer here, but he is on other forums). There is no link, as there is no catalog of watches from which to choose. There are a few select models, and you have to cross your fingers that you are getting one of the better versions of the model you are looking for. It is quite a risk, but totally worth it.

I don't have pics handy, but the SD wears much higher than its Sub counterpart. The caseback alone is almost twice the thickness as the Sub caseback

IIRC, the SD actually has a smaller dial. It is substantially thicker than the 1680/5513 case, though I believe it is the same diameter.

Count my vote in for the Ian Fleming dial!

Yes, I would stay away from that one, unless it is really cheap. It could just be a case of Tritium migration, but it does look relumed. The dial text looks like it might also be touched up.