correctime

703/704 = 24-7030 tube

Ah...then it seems mine having the threads in the crown that come all the way to the top makes it a 700.

Any idea what tube the 24-700 needs ??

What tube does the 704 fit ??

I've had a few noisy rotors in the past, corrected considerably by one of these 2 methods.

1 - tightening the tab screws

2 - pulling the rotor, laying it flat on a piece of 600g sandpaper and gently sanding the bottom edge making it "ever-so-slightly" shorter.

( use caution when trying this...the rotor is 2 pieces and can easily become seperated.)

AWESUM !!!

And you're right...that bezel ring looks VERY good

That's GREAT info FREDDY....thanks for sharing

I've just acquired a New sealed 24-7020 tube that I can't use...and open for trades.

I need a early 703 crown for the 16800.

I thought the crown I had was a 702 because the threads in the crown come all the way up to the machined bevel.

It's not...and I don't know what it is but it isn't a 702..the 24-7020 won't fit inside it.

It will screw on perfectly to a 24-7030 tube but bottoms out just as it reaches the outer tube seal...and it has the 702 /early 703 style coronet on it.

Any ideas ???

My TC spent an entire day going in and out of water from the faucet to 6' under.

No issues what-so-ever...though I did install a gen crown/tube with greased gen seals and a gen crystal so the case back and retaining ring gaskets were freshly greased by me too.

Depends on the age of the 16610 and the crystal thickness

2 mm crystals use the 2.7

1.8mm use the 2.5

You need the 2.5 on the 1.8 crystal to have the same magnification as the 2mm crystal. I discovered this when I used a 2.7 on a 1.8 crystal and saw the difference. I then measured the gaskets and found they were different. Both crystals and gaskets were gen

Great. Thanks for sharing.

I presume the 2.7mm crystal gasket is used for the 2mm 16800 crystal too ??

The caseback gasket is 29-325-10

The gasket under the crystal retainer is 29-337-8

http://www.ebay.com/...=item35b629c7dc

I'm still trying to get the 337 gasket to fit under my crystal retainer- I keep stretching it, hoping it will work.

I have no idea what the case tube gaskets are- I just have a bunch left over from installing case tubes.

Thanks Brother !!

The case back and retaining ring gaskets are the ones I was after.

I'm going to keep this dial as is and just match the hands.

Case reshaping is one thing I need to tackle when I get the case.

E

It is indeed a Beauty "E".

And the very patina'd insert pearl will be a perfact match for it

That explains why I had to shave my lugs down. I think the CGs are a little stubby compared to the gen case too but I solved that by shaving the outsides of them ever so slightly.

Isn't the gasket groove mainly in the retainer?

Yes...typically it is...but I'm not an expert on vintage cases.

No doubt mine will need top side lug-shaping work....it's almost as if the lugs curve ever so slightly up once they're past the bezel ring area.

As for any other shaping or shaving, I'll have to really study the 9 million series 16800.

Like everyhing esle there are simply too many variations in the same case models from series to series to acurrately pin-point having a "perfect" or "not-so perfect" case overall.

And as with any aftermarket case, who knows what was used for referrence in 3D'ing to CAD file the case for cutting...1680/16800/168000/16610...or some of each....??

New, NOS, polished, non-polished original...who knows ??

Does a gasket o'ring seal parts numbers list exist anywhere ??

Anyone need the gen dial ??

PM me.

The dial in the first image looks exactly the same as my 16750. It's hard for me to tell from a straight on view if the crystal is acrylic or sapphire.

gen 25-295-C sapphire.

Wow...I think that dial looks great.

I love the patina color though I'm now considering having my dial marker SL'd.

I think torch-like lume on a vintage piece would be a nice touch.

Have you checked to be certain the rotor isn't possibly rubbing on a mvt ring tab screw ??

Sometimes they're not always screwed all the way in .

I'm on the list for one of LondonG's.

Gonna put it on my Gen 16800. Hate the glare of the cyclops.

I've got one enroute to try on the 16800 build too

per factory or not there's not much sense having a date on a watch if it's any kind of struggle to see it

CT, maybe the build should then be a very very early 16800 and see how it goes. E

The dial won't allow that Brother

I believe with the tops of the lugs trimmed down by a professional it's gonna work out just fine

There are quite alot of variations in the 16800 cases...

http://forums.watchnet.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=295500&rid=0

http://www.google.co...iw=1680&bih=830

And then what model would it be using this particular dial ??

Also....is the 62510H Jubilee with 555 end pieces correct for both ??

There seems to be a great deal of knowledge regarding GMT's here so I'd like to trouble this thread for some expert info please.

What model GMT would this particular dial in a holed Case ( Cartel Exp.II case with WM9 v2 bezel with drilled lug holes) replicate ??

AWESOME looking GMT !!!

Congrats on the build and thanks for sharing.

CT is having major watch joy! Love it when a plan comes together.

Indeed I am brother.

I'm very pleased with the progress and results .

CG's compared to the TC CG's are noticably fatter and the 9 million series 16800 case didn't come with the gasket groove so I'm pleased with the case so far.

BUT...gavidoc is right...the lugs are too thick and will need some work.

The curvature of them will too.

Out of curiousity I tried a TC Bracelet on it...fit is so snug I could put it on the wrist without spring bars... the lug holes and SEL SB holes lined up perfectly.

BUT...the curvature of the SEL and lug curvature aren't a perfect match.

Does anyone happen to know if the curvature of the SEL on the TC 93250 is the same as the 593 end pieces ??

fit - no problemo

Which mvt ring to fit it Star ?? TC or TC ??

Not enough meat to drill the extra .1-.2mm.....ah.

Great idea. Well done !!

The rings in my end links were not open. They were a solid ring cut from tubing.

This is my solution and I like it...

1. I popped the small rings out of the end link and threw them away...very easy.

2. I cleaned the end link very thoroughly by soaking in denatured alcohol.

3. I roughed up the inside of the end link with 220 grit sandpaper.

4. I put some grease on the shank of my 2mm drill bit. Any grease will work, it is just a release agent.

5. I laid the shank of the 2mm bit down in the end link.

6. I carefully laid a bridge of J-B Weld over the shank, making sure that there was good contact with the steel of the end link.

7. I waited about 6-8 hours and then took some needle nosed pliers and turned the bit to break it loose and pulled it out.

8. Voila...2 perfect 2mm rings in the end link. Wait the full 24 hours before using.

The good news is, these end links will never jingle.

I like it.

Well done Brother. !!

I have done it. The TW movement ring does not work. The stem position is workable but not ideal.

This is interesting.

Which adaptor did you use to get as close as possible and eliminate all the stem pressure as possible ??