Legend

And you and I continue to thread crap on this 7 month thread haha..

But I see it also as bringing a rather interesting thread back to life. 

The occasion calls for this song

 

Just now, altesporsche said:

I Hear what you are saying, but this is a 7 month dormant post and no one had intentions of turning it into a sales thread. I simply said I’d take that “desk clock” off his hands for him... 😬 cheers ! 

lol, brother, pardon me sometimes. When I miss a date with Ms Morning Coffee, you can ignore 50% of what I say. 

 

On 8/12/2018 at 7:15 PM, madasboot said:

Definitely a desk clock for me.

No wrist time, especially the 3646.

If anyone is interested its a 3 piece case (prototype) a 3 layer anodised dial and a cortebert cal.616 with rlx engravings.

 

I can consider a trade if anyone has a decent modded vintage Explorer 1016 to let go.

Thanks!

 

 

 

1 hour ago, altesporsche said:

What are you looking for that 3646 setup ?

 

i don’t have my 1016 anymore, but I’m about to list a 16610 franken. Or if I sell it I’d be interested in taking this off your hands. I really miss my 3646

 

Guys

 

Good intentions, but kindly do the sale/trade/purchases in the trade section please, thank you.

Just sharing some of my current collection of watches not in the safe.






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4 minutes ago, Champsy said:

Not doing to bad yourself haha


Sent from me

Not true bro.. the watches I own are far less in numbers haha

10 hours ago, Champsy said:

Your collection is insane


Sent from me

Yes Dylan seems to have every model released except for the older Noob ones lol

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On 8/25/2018 at 1:42 AM, havard.hagen said:

Wow, lovely watch and will be my next .
How do you feel the thickness 16mm? Does it feel right?
My wrist is 7 inc only, i wonder if it will fit

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Your 7 inch wrist will have no problems pulling off any 42, or even 44mm ROO.

The thickness of the watch is more apparent when examined off the wrist, compared to when viewed on the wrist as the flesh of the wrist tend to obscure the caseback.

Unless you are specifically looking for it and are very familiar with the gen ROO profile, the thickness is not discernible by most people when worn on the wrist. Yes, the rep is about 2mm thicker as a fact. But this is observed only by guys in the hobby, like us, and not by the common man off the street.

 

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3 hours ago, paristoto said:

Shinny

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Beautiful F. 

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Guys please do not buy anything at all from Swiss6uk. He’s trying to sell backdoor to several members here and on RWI.


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We are here to help, and I will like to make it clear to newbies that:

 

1. We were ALL once newbies. There is nothing abhorrent about that. We do not believe in ragging or bullying just because you are new.

2. The right attitude and approach counts. If you meet an asshole in the morning, one in the afternoon and one at night, chances are.. you are the asshole. Be polite and positive and ask your questions nicely. You will get help.

3. Everything we ever learnt, was new to us at some point, and we may become learned in our own fields of interest/expertise. This community is about convening and sharing of our own knowledge and tips. If you are helped along at some point, learn to say thank you and move on and pay it forward. Don't just read and keep quiet and resurface again with new questions the next time you encounter issues. That is bad form. 

 

The leftmost pic of each series shows the H series font. The center one shows the i series font and is in fact the most accurate of the 3 you’ve shown.
The rightmost font is the most inaccurate, trying to be an i series but failing miserably.

The dw not being centered is a common flaw in the xf diver and it can be aligned.




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No need to be some complicate; only take a glance on Chrono button & I will know it’s Gen or rep except the latest Noob A4130 Daytona.

 

Sorry bro! Please accept my sincere apology for my ignorant. I don’t mean to offend………just overlook the content you already mentioned they are Gen.

I was not offended mate. But for the sake of comparison, I think we need to state the model and make of what we are posting clearly, so as to avoid confusing others. 

For a model like the daytona, I will not buy the rep, as either one detail or the other will be, to me, egregiously off. 

I do agree that the A4130 clone movement seems to be a big leap forward, but long term reliability and timekeeping remains issues which could surface.

Also, just FYI, the pusher profiles can be modded to be more gen like. I will attach a pic of what I mean: this is a rep with modded pusher profiles.

 

 

On 8/18/2018 at 12:44 PM, messinapete said:

Hello All,

I’m new therefore a pain because I have so many questions that are obvious 

to many members, But I must start somewhere.

 

There are many abbreviations attached to watches of which I don’t know,

is there a place I can find these.

 

I’ve recently purchased a Rolex Daytona Cosmograph (11650 I think) latest edition it cost me $658 from ‘Dtime’ it’s says it waterproofed to 50 mtrs, Once received I wrote to ‘Dtime’ and asked is it W/P for general swimming (Certainly no deeper than 30 mtrs) They have assured me Yes definitely too 30 mtrs but not beyond, Should I have it checked out anyway despite Dtime’s assurance?

 

With these clones/super Clones is Dtime a solid reliable company? Am I overpaying?

I only want the best cost to an extent is irrelevant, Yet I see on some sites same watch $150-400, is it a case of “What you pay for you get” lower grade  steel, cheaper movement, non AR Etc.

 

i have three watches I want to buy (1 per month) A Breitling Chronomat, A Cartier Panthere (Midsize) and AP Royal Oak when the model I want is in production (Its a pity I can’t attach pics to this message)

 

So in essence I need assistance with a guide to abbreviations and the groups input 

about ‘Dtime’ I’m familiar with what factory does the best of certain brands.

 

I  could probably do with a ‘ Understanding Clones,copies, Do’s and dont’s 101’

So I don’t have to post what might seem Obvious questions, Is there such a thing?

I’m based in The UK.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post.

Regards.

Pics 1 and 2 is what I still want.

pics 3,4,5 Is What I have Rolex Daytona Cosmograph 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello and welcome, first and foremost.

 

1. I will advise you to stick to known dealers like intime03.co, puretime.io etc. The stock are all from the same factory, but with the known/trusted dealers, you get more assurance that the actual watch purchased is the one advertised. 

 

2. Stated water resistance: Take it with a pinch of salt, this is a hit or miss. Do not take your watch swimming unless you have pressure tested it first and done and necessary basic waterproofing.

 

3. You can start your learning about the models you want, and also the abbreviations used in the hobby, by perusing one of the known dealer sites I listed, and then asking what you wish to ask. I see that the new clone movement daytonas are listed for $628 before shipping. https://www.intime03.co/rollie/5124-pre-order-daytona-116515-rg-case-black-ceramic-bezel-noob-1-1-best-edition-brown-dial-on-rubber-strap-sa4130.html. I understand you bought a different model. You probably paid around the same price, or slightly more. Nothing horrifying though.

 

4. Come back again and ask the questions you wish to ask.

6 minutes ago, rckh said:

 

Thx bro!

Both your 116500 are Noob A4130 right? They are great look but in my personal perspective the ceramic bezel is not match with whole design especially on black dial. White dial is still good as the dial design is classic 16520 zenith @9sec model. Actually, I’m still wait my dream model 116509 Grey dial with red hands release. But I believe I still have to wait at least 1-2 years before noob going to release it as it’s a 2006 model……

On bright side the A4130 movement exclusive for noob should end after a year (just like the @12sec movement) then JF/ARF able to produce much better version; Noob own most of the top of the line technique; however they always fail on detail, QC & some basic requirement(i.e compare ALL the printing of ceramic bezel on Noob VS JF/ARF; Noob printing are very disgusting.).…Therefore I still hold up to get one of the 116520 white dial until they fix several minor flaw but something they are 200% capable to provide.

 

Both my 116500LN are gens. Why Noob A4130? Besides you, some of us can afford gens too

 

The yellow gold one is completely wrong & very obvious. The SS blue dial is better


My Gen 116520 for your reference

I always like the 116520, as I think that it is more classy than the 116500LN. I own both the gen black and white ceramic Daytonas. They are for collection and never worn except for pictures. If I can choose to own a daytona for wearing it will be what you own. Excellent choice!




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Hey man, is there a background context to your post? 

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There are things which cannot be seen (heard) in the QC pics. 

 

Besides the crooked markers at 12, 3, and 9, which are very common, the miyota movement sounds cheap and noisy, and the rotor bearings of about 90% of the v3 15400 need to be silenced and oiled. Visually, the thickness is also a flaw which can be resolved. The watch can be thinned to 9.9mm (vs gen thickness of 9.8mm).

Also, I don't like the way the date changes. The date starts changing around 2300 - 2330 each day, and completes the change at midnight. The gen has an instant date change at midnight, much like the Rolex caliber 3135 or ETA2836. But that is me nitpicking. Most people can live with this flaw, but I just cannot. 

 

 

 

 

3 hours ago, cissiboy said:

well done bro, for buying 4 identical watches.