imajedi

Casio Oceanus. Incredible watch, as long as you have the manual with you.

Thanks Jkay

I absolutely love the PAM 127 "Fiddy". The problem is that it's to big for my wrist. I don't really like the "Wall Clock" look. I want to try and custom make or build something with the same look or style but in a 44mm. I was wondering if you could retro fit a 44mm dome crystal to one of the base model PAMs. Say the 390 or 351 for example. I know the 390 is not the best base model to use but I like the look of it with the tobacco dial and gold hands because my creation will absolutely have the Gunny 74 strap like the classic 127 (I love this strap and it's the only part of the build I am sure of). I was thinking of going with a 390 TI case and then adding a dome crystal. maybe eventually updating the CG for a 1950 style with the REG TM. I'm open to other suggestions about a better base model. I did my own research and thought technically speaking the 351 would be good. It's a sandwhich dial like the 127 and comes with the gold hands to match the Gunny 74 strap. The 351 is a 1950 style case which is more correct and has the second hand next to 9 like the "fiddy." The problem of course is that the 351 has the 7750 movement in it which just ruins it for me as far as an open back Panerai goes. I really want to keep the open back as it's a part of the 127 I really love. Thoughts/ideas on either adding the dome to a base model or which base model I should start with?

@FxrAndy, but why you're offering if you could just stop over and keep the #%^*£ top of the oscillating pinion in the 60s clutch holder while the automatic device bridge is assembled that would be great. What ever time works for you is fine for me. :-)

FxrAndy - sorry buddy, I thought you were just speculating. I'll go ahead and try it thick gear down. Thanks brah.

Wow, thanks FxrAndy. Can you confirm?

I'm giving this a bump because I really need help at this point. I really need to know which way the oscillating pinion gear goes into the 7750 movement? Does it go with the thicker gear end up or down. I've watched two videos of it being assembled and both appear to show it with the thicker gear up. The tutorial linked earlier in this thread also suggested it is assembled that way. However, the 7750 website seems to suggest it goes thicker gear down. The problem is none of them are really conclusive. Can anyone shed some light on this. The fate of My Ebel 911 Discovery hangs in the balance. Help me RWG Kenobi, you're my only hope.

Whooo hooo Date plate back on successfully first try. Long way to go but that's all for now. I think the hr hand of the Chrono is fixed. Note the little gold piece of debree on the tape at 3. I found that in the watch. It's a small gold piece. I'm hoping it's debree and not a broken part. Tried the pushers and they seemed to be working so I'm hoping debree at this point.

Hour counter lock and hour hammer spring reinstalled correctly. This took about 1.5 hrs and zillions of tries. The key is to put one tip of your tweezers in the hole in the hour hammer and the other on the spring and squeeze them together to slip the end of the hour hammer spring over the hour hammer. Figuring that out tool an hr and the another 30 min for success. Now let's pray I can get the date platform back on without messing up the delicate assembly.

Problem found....the hour counter lock, the white plastic piece was not assembled correctly, the white rounded foot needs to be in the little notch of the hour hammer next to it. I will try and fix and reassemble. A quick shot of all the parts that need to go back together....eeks

"I'm a dinner Jacket" hahahahhahahahhahahaha

@Jkay...loved it man. Loved it.

JKay, priceless man. I'm doubled in half. I wish there were pics with this post.

Just using common sense if your watches are always running than they are continually putting wear on the bearings and will wear out at least those parts faster. This is probably especially true in the Asian movements if they have not been serviced because from what I've read they typically show up dry. I can tell you from experience of taking apart a Chrono on a A7750 that the Chrono portion has an all plastic bearing and it's not advisable to leave the Chrono's running for extended periods, for example just to see the smooth second hand. That being said the jewels are designed to make excellent bearings and should last a long time if lubricated correctly. I think the answer to this is likely that it is way more important to the life of your watch to have it services regularly and the decision to wind or not wind pails in comparison.

Gen Tag with custom diamond bez

Thanks for the support guys. Of course it will only be a success if I can get it back together working, which right now I think I can but as I mentioned above the problem with the hr hand lies on the other side of the watch below the dial and instill have some disassembly to do. I'm still waiting for the tools I ordered on eBay to take apart the rest of the watch but hopefully I'll get to it this weekend and give you an update. The nice thing about the chrono on the 7750 is that you realize it's really sandwiched around the movement making it easier to get to and not requiring you to disassemble the entire movement. I was unfortunate to have a problem on both sides because my hr hand is broken. As for the pinion, let's start by defining down, which I am defining from the case back towards the face of the watch. I think the thinner gear goes down, closer to the face and in continuous contact with the fourth gear and the thicker gear goes up in intermittent contact with the chrono main gear. Astro do you think it's opposite?

Just in case anyone is following to learn a thing or two, I have some stuff figured out. The tilt pinion goes in with the small gear down and is in continuous contact with the 4th gear which runs the cont. second hand. The pinion is actually tilted during engagement of the chrono to bring the top thicker gear into contact with the center gear of the Chrono and begin the second hand movement. I find it amazing that they actually tilt this thing and it still rotates smoothly in the bearings. The hour hand is run basically completely independant of the rest of the chrono and is on the other side of the watch movement. I.E. I need to take off the hands and face and get to the other side to fix my problem with the hr. hand not working. :-( It turns out the 12 hour accumulater uses a PLASTIC break. Anyone want to take bets that the PLASTIC piece is the one not working. Uhhhhh plastic. Even the idea of having it in there turns my stomach. To get to the other side this project will require some more tools so this will have to go on standby until the tools arrive. I found this article by Walt Odets that describes the 7750 Chrono in detail with pics. Incredible article. http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium631672313433425752 I'm also using this website http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html

I thought I may have accidentally fixed the problem but something is still amiss. The hr hand still runs and gets stuck at 3 even with the plate removed and both the chrono second and min hand completely free wheeling. You would think those were somehow tied together but apparently on the 7750 they are not. The hr hand of the chrono is being driven independent of the sec and min hand. Anyone know how the hr hand on the chrono of the 7750 is clutched? I'm a little scared to take any more screws out.

For ref. if you look close you can see it.

Hahaha Re: Twins. I laughed out loud. Ok well call it a learning experience then which will at most cost me $200. I was looking at $150 anyway. So anyway, I removed the automatic device bridge and a bunch of [censored] came out. The good news is that what ever was making the chrono stick is no longer sticking. I can start and stop the chrono without the watch stopping. My thought is that if I can just get these parts back in there the right way it may actually work. These parts are so incredibly tiny, I had no idea. The one I really need help with right now is the oscillating pinion. From what I can tell this was likely the problem as it appears it connects the chrono seconds hand to the continuous seconds hand. The problem is it's a short shaft with a small gear at each end. The gears are different thicknesses and I don't want to put it in upside down. Anyone know which gear goes down, the thick or thin? I also need to figure out how to release the main spring on this thing because this little guy is not going back in while it's ticking. LoL

Tom, I completely agree but the point is it's broken. I'm not gonna break it more. It's like making your girlfriend more pregnant. Here's the symptoms for anyone with any ideas. From the beginning the Chron hr. hand would always run even when the Chron wasn't working. However, the hr hand would also always get stuck at 3 either with or without Chron engaged. After playing with the Chron a few times it just stopped working all together. I reset it and the main second hand went to 11 instead of 12 and would no longer move forward. On top of that when the Chron is engaged now it brings the entire watch to a grinding hault. I can see the little heartbeat slow down and eventually stop (I have the back off) it's like something is stuck.... As soon as a press the button again to stop the chrono the watch begins to run again. The clutching mechanism for the chrono seems to be working ok as is the release.

Is the post or hole to big. If the post is too big it seems you could just very carefully make the hole on the Asian hands bigger.

Thanks, I won't destroy it. The only thing I can break is the movement, which is already broken. I ordered some tools on the bay and an oiler. I'll give everyone an update when the tools arrive and I dive in.

I new to all this but one thing I notices is the blue screws. If it was authentic then the blue in the screws is caused from a heating and cooling process that makes the metal blue. If that were the case the entire screw should be blue. In your pic the screws are blue but the slots are silver which means they were painted or died and it's a fake. You'll want to get someone with more experience to verify that.