imajedi

I spoke to a watch parts re-seller in China about a custom case order and he got in touch with a factory that previously made a high quality Vintage Rlx Case that he sold. I asked this particular guy, because I bought a good case from him at a good price and the case-back is the first one I've owned where my Rolex Oyster Opener fits like a glove (maybe just coincidence ) . The "MONTRES ROLEX..." embossing on the inside is also very good and better than on other 1000$+ cases that I've seen.

Here is what I gathered so far:

• Minimum Order Quantity is 100 Cases, though it will be cheaper if a bigger order is placed (they normally do bigger production runs than 100).
• The factory needs 3D Scans or Drawings. For best results, they also need a genuine sample case. 
• They have experience making oyster watch cases and they do full detailing on the case (and assembly if crown/tube/pushers are part of the case) - not just simple CNC'ing.
• I don't have a price/case yet. My contact said the factory needs 3D Scans or Drawings for a proper price quotation. I will see if I can get at least a ball-park figure for a run of 100, 200 and 500 cases without the 3D Scans. 
• Based on pricing I could negotiate for a single case that he had in stock, I'd estimate that a run of ~100 Cases can be realized for 100$ or less per case (excl. the cost of 3D Scanning!).

Can I see a show of hands who is interested in pursuing this further? What I mean is: Willing to share the upfront investment & work involved and aware of the risks involved (I've been around for 10 years and the majority of member projects which involved more than a datewheel turned to [censored] in one way or another).

Where were we on the topic of 3D Scanning? Is there only this one company that takes 1000$ for case scan, or did someone have a scanner at work or otherwise accessible (or know of a cheaper vendor)?

 

@paristoto (as FYI)

Noob case, JF/j12 v2 dial.

 

Lovely!!! More pics (in daylight) are more then welcome

I have an ultra high resolution 3D printer with 0.025mm resolution in Z axis and 0.005" resolution in X-Y axis. That's pretty good at printing... It's on my desk right now, printing a case for a custom watch. 

Hello

and thanks for your input!!!  Very valid points indeed. The hands are definitely not touching the dial but as for the crystal I cannot see any marks on it like rubbing and it was stopping at different times. When it did stop, it would run again after taking it out of my jacket pocket upon coming home as I would not leave a non working watch on my arm.  After service it picked up 2 or 3 seconds max per day which I was more than happy with!  Wished my genuine model ran this way! Interestingly, before service I had this movement in a different case (Tudor case) it stopped at exactly 9.27 and 33 seconds which was exactly the same time that it stopped in this different case AFter  service :bangin:My watchmaker still argues that it is the casing not being made for these movements and one will always expect such problems.  Maybe the case was made for an eta 2824 in place of a 2836 as it is slightly thicker and any use of the stem could make it go funny!!! Brainstorming!!'!!! Brainstorming!!!

I do rapid prototyping for a living. 3D scanning is not an exact science, neither is 3D printing for the sake of testing 3D scanning.

Truthfully, a talented machinist might be best off taking a set of calipers and sitting down for a long time and coming up with the correct splines, lines, and other features that make up the case. 

I've worked with ultra-high-resolution 3D scanners and pointcloud sensors. Even at these extreme quality levels, there is so much "noise" in the scans that the models wouldn't be usable for this application. You would have to go in and "trim" points that do not actually exist on the case. Even simple reflections off of the shiny steel would throw off the scanners. The trick, then, is in trimming the points; how do you know you're trimming to the right shape? Well, by adhering to the true geometry of the case, which is best known if you model the case mathematically.

Trust me on this, it's maybe the only field where I might know more than some of the more seasoned members of the board  

What - fall on my own lightsaber - you've got to be kidding!

I'm conflicted about the current rep of this watch. The caseset is steel not titanium, which would be a no-no if I were after the bracelet version, but I'd probably get the one with the Nylon strap and I could probably live with the steel caseset.

Then the dial is pretty close but has Zr02 instead of Ti on it.

https://vimeo.com/176922699

With my luck if I placed an order for the current 43.5 model, they'd release one with titanium caseset and the correct dial markings the following week!

So when the watch stops is it because it needs winding? You can usually tell by the feel when you start winding. That and it starts again once you wind it. If that's the case and the watch has been serviced, I'd guess a bad bearing on the winding weight. Try sourcing a new one (should be cheap) and just swapping that out. I had an IWC 3717 that acted similar and swapped out the winding weight for a gen and the watch stays wound fully as long as I wear it. Made a huge difference

Are you active when you wear it? I work at a computer all day and typing does not wind my watch.

@dbane883 - NOT a Seiko beater he picked up last week.

I was in HI recently with a buddy of mine and a couple girls. After a couple days together his girl looks at me and says, "Damn your watch game is on point." I loved that compliment because it wasn't about a particular watch but about my watch collection and how I chose to wear them.

This has been discussed many times over the years & the consensus has generally been that for every person who calls you out there are probably 20 times as many who identify your rep as a rep & remain silent. The next question being - 'How many people know the difference?' is a bit more tricky, because, these days, I think you would be surprised at how many people, especially young kids, are seriously into watches & know the difference. This was made clear to me several years ago when 2 teenagers (16 or 17-ish) walked up to me as I was getting into my Z & asked if it was for sale? During the conversation, 1 of them spotted my 6536-1 & stunned me by reciting the correct model number & caliber. They both said they were big Sub fans. I have also had experiences sitting in a restaurant wearing either a gen or franken & overheard people around me whispering (among themselves) about the 'rare Rolex' I was wearing. Pretty incredible.

This reminds me of how people bondo up the side panels of rusted cars to make them look good.

The price people pay for "original" vintage watches is ridiculous. I just want the damn thing to look great. I could care less how it got there. I mean I want the watch to be original as in it doesn't have fake parts but if I can pay a lot less for a case that's looks perfect but was refurbished, that's great. I mean it's gonna go on my wrist and I'm going to add my own marks anyway. And here's one that's interesting. If a case has been polished, you can typically tell mostly because it's too perfect. Put take a case that's been polished (professionally with the right chamfers etc.) and wear it for another ten years and then try and detect of it was polished at one time or not. This "untouched" "all original" thing is stupid. It's one big guessing game just completely overrun with fraud.

I have some dials in parts box, none fit. Misplaced window or indexes holes.
Now I need to find The good dial

Noooooo

When you are headed out to chase skirt, a great watch really makes you feel good.