jc0515

Sources for Milsub 26mm dials? I can find 29mm, but no 26mm

...that's what I'm leaning towards. Thought I would try the "remove" if there was an easy way because I have a few old dials. I think I found a sterile on the bay for about $10, but they seem to be 29mm, and mine are 26+ mm.

Hi All, I'm building a project watch for my wife using an Invicta Pro Diver as a base. The dial markers are tiny and I was thinking about replacing them with some rep sub mariner markers from an old dial. I actually wanted to find some CZ, or Rhinstone markers, but gave on finding chips. As I thought about this, I was wondering if I could just swap the dials, but remove the 'Rolex' logo at 12 o'clock. These are painted on I guess, so I'm not sure if it's possible. So I'm looking for advice on: 1) Removing Rolex logo from rep dial 2) Swapping dial markers - I was warned a long time ago not to use Superglue, but have used it successfully in the past. 3) Any source for faux diamond chips for markers? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Congratulations! For quartz Breitlings, I have an Emergency and a B-1. Almost picked up an Aerospace a month back. I have the "multifunction crown" on my E, and you get used to it quickly. Enjoy, that's a beauty.

...man, I really should proofread better. Please forgive the typos in my procedures.

Here is the buckle fits 24mm tongue, but is 32mm wide.

The Kevlar is a Ted Su. I now have it in 22, 24, and 26mm. The buckle is a substantial friction style. It appears that the OEM one shipped with the 193 is either from Ted Su, or a copy down to the buckle. I purchased the 22 and 24mm back when he first started manufacturing them - quite a price increase since, but just for the buckle, the straps are inexpensive.

Sorry about the pictures - not enough time to setup the light box. I'm really enjoying this watch...more now since I satisfied my OCD by freezing the depth hand. Enjoy

...okay, I broke the unwritten rule about always posting pics. Will post this week.

I ended up getting a hands puller and setter off the bay, and taking a whack at it myself. Ended up: 1) Removing movement. I this one the stem release is just a push-button, not a screw. 2) Remove all hands including Depth/GMT. It's a depth gauge hand, but acts as a 1/2 GMT on the rep. 3) Bored out the depth hand a little using an all. Someone had suggested a toothpick, but it wasn't enough. 4) Put a drop of superglue on the depth hand were it flares out, and "set" if to "off" 5) Put everything back, and viola! Had a few moments were I though I would regret doing it myself, but all worked out in the end. I tried to keep everything dust-free, and took my time. I think the total cost for the puller, fine tweezers and hands press was about $14. This movement runs great and keeps excellent time. It did bother me that depth hand was moving, so I can check that off the list. While I was in there, I was thinking about coloring the depth marker dots, similar to the original, but I only had magic markers, and I thought one success was enough, why tempt fate. This guy wears big, but I'm really enjoying it. I currently have it on a Ted Su diver, and have worn it on an ammo - both very comfortable.

Nice job! I keep thinking about tryiny it, but haven't taken the plunge yet. Good luck with your future projects.

Hi, Purchased a PAM193 to fool around with from a fellow member - great transaction by the way. This is listed as an Asian 2813 movement. The "Depth" hand is using the GMT mechanism where it's running about 1/2 the speed of the hour hand - settable in first position backwards turn. Circles counter-clockwise on set. Anyway, I was wondering if my "limited" skills could enable me to freeze the depth hand in the "Off" setting. I guess Zig is out for awhile, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I didn't think about using my drill press, but that sounds like best "try" for me. I'll try one end, and hopefully can't screw it up too badly. Thank you all for the input

Zig, ...your "after" pic is obviously what I am striving for. Since my CG is brushed, I was thinking that I could push the pin out the "top", ever so slightly. With the CG off, put sand paper on a flat surface, and sand down the head of the pin in one direction. Probably hitting the CG in the process, but since it's brushed, I think I could even out the finish. Maybe I try the back side first to see what happens.

Hi, I was thinking about flattening the CG pin on my 111. Read somewhere that someone did this by slightly pushing out the pin then slowly sanding it down while in the CG. Questions: 1) Is this the best practice? 2) Is the CG pin like a regular link pin that you can simply tap out with a link remover? 3) Any tricks, or gotchas on this mod? Thanks in advance.

Sorry, I should have clarified that I have a pumpkin...the black bezel does seem to go with more straps. I was more specifically wondering about whether the "rubber with stitch" straps had gotten better. The OEM rubber with stitch, has been rep'd with leather in the past. I'm also not sure if the 45.5 would appear to big for these tapered straps. I've tried a few regular, and few seem to work as well as the bracelet or rubber dive strap.

Hi All, I have an UPO 45.5 from a few years ago...still keeps amazing time. I purchased with bracelet, and then picked up the rubber strap, but have frequently thought about the rubber with orange, and rubber with white stitch and deployant clasp. Only seen these in leather from rep dealers. Questions: 1) Does the 45.5 seem odd on anything but the black rubber and bracelet? I've read that some think the larger PO overpowers regular tapered straps. 2) Anyone making a good 22mm "rubber" orange, or white stitch? I've seen the earlier leather versions, and they are not that appealing. Any input would be welcome.

Thanks to all for responding. If Andrew was still able to take PP, it would have been purchased last night.

I'm looking for an Ocean Racer strap for a couple of my gen Breitlings...can't see paying 500 for a gen rubber strap. I remember reading that there were issues with the clasps falling apart, or just not usable after a very short time. 1) Have the clasps been changed? Is this still an issue? ...or was that post an isolated case? 2) I've had good success dealing with Andrew in the past. Does everyone pretty much have the same strap? ...I see where the Silix one looks like a friction and not push-button. 3) Are the clasps really push-button, or just friction with 'ornamental' push-buttons? 4) I was thinking about getting both Black & Blue. Any dealers just sell the strap? ...don't think I need two clasps. 5) How comfortable is the rubber? Do you still have to boil them to soften them up? Thanks in advance.

I keep missing out on Breitling straps in the sales forum, so I thought I'd post here for recommendations. I have a few Breitling gens that I want to try with a croc strap and deployant...even thinking about an "Ocean Race" strap if there is a rep out for that. Could someone please PM me with a suggestion of which dealer to contact. I've seen some great rep straps lately, but none on the usual Dealer sites. Thanks in advance.

Thanks, I do enjoy it. No hack, but has an 8-day wind that is very impressive.

I have a gen reverso and want to try out a bracelet without the big expense. Does anyone have a rep JLC 20mm bracelet for a Reverso? Thanks

What is it about rubber? I have an OEM blue double-ridge rubber strap with clasp for my gen Omegas, and that one new ran around the same price...and yet we buy them. The Ocean Racer is a good looking strap - good luck.

Hi, Wondering if anyone still sells a 22mm PAM bracelet. I'm thinking about modifying one to fit my gen Anonimo.

I was told that this UPO came from Andrew...lug holes seem very far down the lug. I was also just thinking about replacing the Orange bezel insert with a REP Black insert, so the size would be the same. I hadn't heard about the pip issue.