jc0515

Sources for Milsub 26mm dials? I can find 29mm, but no 26mm

...that's what I'm leaning towards. Thought I would try the "remove" if there was an easy way because I have a few old dials. I think I found a sterile on the bay for about $10, but they seem to be 29mm, and mine are 26+ mm.

Hi All, I'm building a project watch for my wife using an Invicta Pro Diver as a base. The dial markers are tiny and I was thinking about replacing them with some rep sub mariner markers from an old dial. I actually wanted to find some CZ, or Rhinstone markers, but gave on finding chips. As I thought about this, I was wondering if I could just swap the dials, but remove the 'Rolex' logo at 12 o'clock. These are painted on I guess, so I'm not sure if it's possible. So I'm looking for advice on: 1) Removing Rolex logo from rep dial 2) Swapping dial markers - I was warned a long time ago not to use Superglue, but have used it successfully in the past. 3) Any source for faux diamond chips for markers? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Congratulations! For quartz Breitlings, I have an Emergency and a B-1. Almost picked up an Aerospace a month back. I have the "multifunction crown" on my E, and you get used to it quickly. Enjoy, that's a beauty.

...man, I really should proofread better. Please forgive the typos in my procedures.

Here is the buckle fits 24mm tongue, but is 32mm wide.

The Kevlar is a Ted Su. I now have it in 22, 24, and 26mm. The buckle is a substantial friction style. It appears that the OEM one shipped with the 193 is either from Ted Su, or a copy down to the buckle. I purchased the 22 and 24mm back when he first started manufacturing them - quite a price increase since, but just for the buckle, the straps are inexpensive.

Sorry about the pictures - not enough time to setup the light box. I'm really enjoying this watch...more now since I satisfied my OCD by freezing the depth hand. Enjoy

...okay, I broke the unwritten rule about always posting pics. Will post this week.

I ended up getting a hands puller and setter off the bay, and taking a whack at it myself. Ended up: 1) Removing movement. I this one the stem release is just a push-button, not a screw. 2) Remove all hands including Depth/GMT. It's a depth gauge hand, but acts as a 1/2 GMT on the rep. 3) Bored out the depth hand a little using an all. Someone had suggested a toothpick, but it wasn't enough. 4) Put a drop of superglue on the depth hand were it flares out, and "set" if to "off" 5) Put everything back, and viola! Had a few moments were I though I would regret doing it myself, but all worked out in the end. I tried to keep everything dust-free, and took my time. I think the total cost for the puller, fine tweezers and hands press was about $14. This movement runs great and keeps excellent time. It did bother me that depth hand was moving, so I can check that off the list. While I was in there, I was thinking about coloring the depth marker dots, similar to the original, but I only had magic markers, and I thought one success was enough, why tempt fate. This guy wears big, but I'm really enjoying it. I currently have it on a Ted Su diver, and have worn it on an ammo - both very comfortable.

Nice job! I keep thinking about tryiny it, but haven't taken the plunge yet. Good luck with your future projects.

Hi, Purchased a PAM193 to fool around with from a fellow member - great transaction by the way. This is listed as an Asian 2813 movement. The "Depth" hand is using the GMT mechanism where it's running about 1/2 the speed of the hour hand - settable in first position backwards turn. Circles counter-clockwise on set. Anyway, I was wondering if my "limited" skills could enable me to freeze the depth hand in the "Off" setting. I guess Zig is out for awhile, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I didn't think about using my drill press, but that sounds like best "try" for me. I'll try one end, and hopefully can't screw it up too badly. Thank you all for the input

Zig, ...your "after" pic is obviously what I am striving for. Since my CG is brushed, I was thinking that I could push the pin out the "top", ever so slightly. With the CG off, put sand paper on a flat surface, and sand down the head of the pin in one direction. Probably hitting the CG in the process, but since it's brushed, I think I could even out the finish. Maybe I try the back side first to see what happens.

Hi, I was thinking about flattening the CG pin on my 111. Read somewhere that someone did this by slightly pushing out the pin then slowly sanding it down while in the CG. Questions: 1) Is this the best practice? 2) Is the CG pin like a regular link pin that you can simply tap out with a link remover? 3) Any tricks, or gotchas on this mod? Thanks in advance.