-EZ-

Yeah the logo thing's a shame....otherwise the rep looks great and I would probably have the red/blue on my wrist now.

I haven't researched the other models, but you're definitely correct about the blue and red model, which is the one I was interested in. CLICK to see the rep from Silix (same as Josh's). Go to www.prestigetime.com/images/watches/3210.52.jpg (or google by its model number, 3210.52) to see the gen. Rep clearly has old UPO style clown feet logo, gen has newer flat feet logo. Otherwise it looks great.

nice one Lani..looks like you have the more expensive(but more accurate) 7750 version?

Yeah, and the printing on the inner bezel ring's scratched too. Otherwise these look great and are good values. No one's going to know or notice the backwards printing on the crown or the incorrect clasp printing; the only problem is that the numbers on the inner bezel are too short; they should be tall enough to reach the top. Fortunately you'll probably win the lottery before you bump into a Chopard expert.

When I want to wear one of my dead autos, I simply hold the head and shake it for a full 30 seconds, then put it on. Haven't had a problem keeping anything from a7750's to eta 2824s to miyotas charged from there, even if I spend the whole day at a desk. So I'm just wondering....why hand wind at all? btw I once had a salesperson at Tourneau tell me to always wind and "never shake a watch" when I tried to get the PO I was looking at to run...sometimes I wonder if they get any training at all

Aside from its externals, the only way to determine the quality of a watch is to look at the movement. The only way looking at a movement will matter is if you learn to tell the difference between the common chinese movements used in reps and the gen ETA movements and their copies. There is plenty of info on this site to learn these things. Many of the sellers may not even let you open the watch up at all. One thing's for sure: don't believe anything they say. Confirm everything yourself, especially if they're trying to charge you top dollar for a "swiss" version. BTW there's no such thing as a swiss replica, just asian reps with swiss movements. When I went to Thailand last year, every vendor "guaranteed" that their watches were 100% perfect replicas while handing me garbage such as quartz watches stamped as automatics and non-working chronos with crooked logos and missing hands. Even when I asked for the good stuff, I never found anything close to approaching the UPO, Link and SFSO qualities that we're used to. Funny thing is, many provided actual catalogs to prove how good their wares were. They only helped me see all the mistakes. Most of the vendors on the street are just pushing $10-$20 junk for casual tourists who get excited at the first rollie they see. I know the good stuff's out there, but they seem to be the exception by far rather than the norm. Unfortunately I didn't get to go to Maria's stall. I don't know how GZ will compare, but even though I had been pretty excited about the watch markets in Thailand, the conclusion I brought home was that it's better to just get your fix from the recommended dealers here. That's the only way to know what you're getting, plus you'll have some recourse if you get a lemon (which you will eventually).

Sorry, have the crown but not the tube. Here's everything I've got. The prices are several months old, they may or may not be accurate. Planet Ocean XL (45mm) gen parts: Crystal part number : OME-SB3063 = $169.00 Bezel and insert replacement :OME-082SU1703 = $189.00 Bezel and insert replacement: OME-082SU1772 = $202 (Orange) Omega hands : HAN-4221 = $36.00 Omega seconds hand : HAN-4222 = $16.80 Omega dial (orange number) OME-2500-DIAL#4 = $189.00 Omega dial (white number) OME-2500-DIAL#3 = $198.00 Omega crown for both models 42 and 44mm : Omega Crown 42184 = $36.00 Omega HE Valve : OME-086ST0115 = $69.00

While we're at it, anyone have the part number for the Seamaster chrono dial? If anyone wants, I can list the numbers for the PO.

Actually some of the bezels on the newer SMPs (not just the POs) are virtually welded on....the case or bezel will bend, crack or break before the bezel comes off. This method won't work on them. More than a couple people with these SMPs have tried following this guide and messed up their watches. If I remember correctly The Zigmeister experienced this too, and his suggestion for changing or aligning the insert on these models was to remove the crystal and pop the insert out from behind, although the hair dryer method will probably work. Not sure if it's even possible to get the bezel off these bad boys without causing damage.

Yeah that makes more sense. I can't help but feel I'm getting the brush off from my dealer, especially since it's a well-known issue. Oh well, hopefully it's something I can do myself.

regarding the crown sticking out a millimeter problem....my dealer told me to put a dash of lubricant on it and turn harder, after which it should go down. I already turned it pretty hard to get it where it is, and I'm afraid to do damage. Any thoughts on this suggestion?

Thanks, I did some digging and saw the other threads. To be honest, I don't mind the slight protrusion aesthetically. I'm only worried about the moisture and dust thing. Any opinions on whether it's worth a return based solely on that?

This is a great watch. I just got mine today. One thing....the bottom of the crown on mine does not sit flush or touch the case when fully screwed in. Viewed from the back, there's pretty much a full millimeter of space between the crown and the case. Is this the case with any of your 45 POs? I'm concerned because it could be letting in unhealthy amounts of dirt and moisture.