Crwilsn

If the tiger case you have is the same as mine, it takes a 28mm dial and shows 27mm. This can be checked with calipers if you have them. There is a reason tiger calls the case 5508. I think a 5508/5510 dial at gen size will fit perfect. yuki has the size of the 55xx series dial as 27.6 I think. Good news is if you will accept a 4 line dial, yuki has an ETA 6538 dial right now that measures 28mm should be perfect for your case. Get a ETA or selitta movement 2836, and you should be in business. Toughest thing is going to be the crown. You will need to drill and retap the case for an athaya, live with a sterile, or put a smaller gen 602 crown in place, like on a 5508. See the trend.

Also if you are good with a sub, 16800s are a bargain. You can still find matte dial ones under 6k for a nice one, unlike 666 mattes which are over 10k.

+1 on the 666. I was just in the same dilemma and picked up a matte dial 666 with a later service dial. I am looking for an original dial but the are scarce and expensive. Currently have a yuki dial in it as an interim step and am quite happy with the result. In fact I may just keep this dial in anyway.

I guess it depends on your definition of fake vs refinished. Not sure I agree a repainted gen dial is a fake or rep. The yuki one is definitely bad and not an original plate. That one would be poor to put on a gen and I think it was just my impatience talking above. The Minh one in particular is a gen plate and his dials are at least marginally accepted as legitimate refinished dials. No matter which way I go, I will be searching for a gen matte dial but they are nigh impossible to find.

Definitely looking for a gen dial but these are few and far between. Watch came in today and it is exactly as expected. Passed all the gen 16660 tests and looks like a well worn example. Plan is a sympathetic restoration and wear as a tool watch like it was designed as. I may reconsider the yuki dial though as if I ever find a gen dial, it would be a shame to have dropped $500 on an interim dial with very little market. Yuki dial is not terrible though it can immediately be identified as aftermarket. Only $105 including hands. Either way I am going to polish it up a bit and wear it for while to decide whether the new dial is necessary to enjoying the watch.

I am leaning more toward the Minh dial again as the crown on the NDT looks off and while the Ls in SEA-DWELLER look like they are slightly high in the macro shots, it will be impossible to tell without a loop on the watch. As for service dial vs refinished, I am not a big fan of service dial, particularly when they completely change the character of the watch. If Rolex had made these with Luminova maxi plots like they do for 1665 and 1680 dials, it would be fine. Instead people in the late 90's changed these dials to make them look like newer watches. I think that is worse than putting a high quality redial on a watch to make it look like it did when it was sold. This will never be a collectors watch as it does not have the original dial, so I would prefer it to look like it did originally rather than like a later SD. I do plan on keeping the service dial and hands though in case I ever decide to sell the watch. Plus I am thinking I will write "refinished" on the back of the dial and "refinished dial" on the inside of the case back to help prevent misrepresentation if it ever leaves my hands with the new dial on it.

Just found a early gen 16660 Sea-Dweller that at some point in its history had its original matte dial replaced with a gloss service dial. This was factored into the price so I was fine with it. Original dials have gone into crazy territory (3k+) so I am planning on replacing the dial with a good quality refinished dial. To be honest, I would rather go the refinished route anyway. With the crazy prices being asked I would rather be certain I am getting what I paid for. Plus my intent for this watch is to wear it as designed, including for diving. Rather not take a chance on an expensive original dial. So I have narrowed it down to two dials. I looked a yuki but it is too far off to put on a gen watch. The options available are Minhq And NDT Here is a gen for comparison Originally I thought the Minh was going to be the easy choice but something looks off in the text on that dial. Serifs look too big and the letters do not appear to line up great. It is more likely to be the one with the real plate and his dials are somewhat legitimate for non collectors. The NDT on the other hand looks good and I prefer the darker lume but not sure this was ever a gen plate. Any opinions or reviews from other dial purchases? Thanks, Clay

Also, fly out without a watch or a cheap digital (ironman or g-shock for swimming). Wear the rep back. They will not look closely at a watch you are wearing. You may get away with 1 more in a travel case in your bag but any more could lead to questions.

I think once it's out in WG, it will never appear in stainless. If you just bought a 40k watch would you want to see an identical looking model the next year for 10k? I will put money on there being a stainless coke bezel (black and red) next year in stainless, maybe even replacing the blnr. This would appeal to the traditionalist base while not pissing of those dropping lots on a pepsi model.

Just reinforces my belief I will never buy a gen ceramic insert rolex. Too fragile and too expensive to replace the part of the watch most prone to damage. $50 to swap out a gen bezel for a new one is reasonable. $500 is not.

I took my watches for their annual pressure test. The tiger passed with flying colors to 10 bar or 100 meters. I think this is THE best bang for the buck case available. Crystal was glued on with gs cement and stock gasket,retaining ring and sterile crown. If I could get someone to engrave the case and fit a gen like bezel and crown, I don't see needing a yuki case. Problem is by the time I add a good bezel and crown, I'm almost in to the cost of a yuki case.

I damaged the gasket on my GMT II ceramic when replacing the crystal. Does anyone know of a replacement? I am guessing that a press in I gasket size 29.5mm outer by 0.8mm tall by 0.45 wide. Just wondering if anyone has tried it successfully or has a better size suggestion. Thanks, Clay

I would be interested in knowing if the 5508 dial fits in the tiger case. Also if a 1530 movement fits without spacers or modification. I have a theory that the tiger case is based off an actual 5508 rather than the typical big crown replica cases available elsewhere that take a larger dial or the high dollar 6538 cases available from phong or yuki. If so I may try a gen movement rep 5510 dial in my tiger case.

That's not a rep, that's a gen with a replacement crystal. I bet you could send that to rolex for a service. Very cool watch.

And now Yuki is feeding my watch ADD by offering a 6542 case set. Will this ever end...

Has anyone tried the ingod44 6538 case. Looks interesting and the price is better than yuki's. I had swore that I would take a break from buying watch parts but the idea of a gen movement 6538/5510 is keeping me up. I like by dg2813 movement version but for some reason I keep going to yuki's site. Make it stop.

Winding is not a problem. It gives you a chance to play with it and I find myself "topping off" many times throughout the day. If you really need an automatic though, the reduced is available for about $500 less. Looks nearly the same and with some searching you may even be able to break under $1k. 7750 based movement I think but this is truly a great gen at rep prices. As for the weight, it's all in the bracelet. I think we are all spoiled by modern bracelets. Vintage bracelets are light whether gen, rep, rolex, or omega. As a new model, it comes with a bracelet similar to that on a seamaster pro great white. Very solid and heavy feel. I have mine on an aftermarket vintage type and it is really light. Depends on what you want. I have worn mine on a Planet Ocean bracelet (search google and you will see how it looks) and the watch feels very substantial. My favorite though is on a brown straps as this screams vintage aviation/auto racing.

I actually may buy a gen 2 case just to get a bezel. Or ask if anyone has a later tiger retainer ring and bezel to go on the case I have. I know I want a better early sub than I have now. I think I would like a gen movement but need to find a good price on either a 1030 for a 6536/8 or a 15xx for a 5508/10. Not picky between 65xx and 55xx as the appearance is about the same. I guess parts for the 1030 movement are getting scarce so i think that pushes me more towards a 55xx. If I am not going gen movement I think the new style tiger case is best bang for the buck as a 5510 dial (27.6mm) should slot right into a tiger case (27mm opening and 28mm dial size). In fact it makes me wonder if these are modeled after a 5510 case.

I bought a gen and did not feel one pang of regret. No rep does this watch justice. I would go so far as to say if you were going to buy one gen, this is the one. Plus as a historically significant watch, it is a bargain at around $2500 for a decent older watch, $4250 or so for a new one from an AD, and $5000 - $6000 will get a nice cal 321 just like was worn on the moon. Service is much more expensive than a watch with a simple date complication. Budget around $800 or so and if you buy used set money aside sooner rather than later. I doubt there is any other watch so well known available in that price range.

When you say the tiger has a gen mounting do you mean the early style with a ring over the crystal and what looks like a bent up paper clip in the bezel to hold it on? Or is it more like the later subs with a ring, tension spring and bezel that locks on the base of the ring. I have a tiger case with the later but if they have changed to the actual 6538 style bezel, I may have to get another one. Trying to decide between doing a mid grade big crown (modded tiger case, yuki dial, low beat eta movement) or go all the way to a gen movement based 5510. Yuki has the case for a 15xx based 5510 but the dial is only a one line. I figure a tired 15xx based datejust can be had fairly cheap (particularly after selling off the gen dial, case, hands, etc). Yuki case and dial and end up with a near gen for around 2k.

An easier way is to attach the dial to a dremel cutting wheel bit and spin it. Use some sandpaper on the edge and check often. I would not risk this with an expensive gen dial but did it to my $30 raffles dial with good results.

Unfortunately I'm just the idea guy. Better known as the good idea fairy.

Just a thought, why not put holes for the common rolex movements (1030, 15xx, 3150) as well. Here's why. The most accurate way to position a watch is using the feet. If you keep the rolex feet on and align the dial using them in holes on the jig, you can be sure the ones placed in the eta holes are aligned perfect. No room for in intended movement either. Then clip the feet after and you have perfect alignment. Also allows you to go back if you score a gen movement.

I bought a gen pro 3 months ago and loved every minute of it. Has anyone else noticed the prices going up on these? I paid 1750 for a 69 pre-moon, claimed service, without a box and now I can't find any on eBay for less than $2000. Some would say get while the getting is good but knowing the numbers of these produced, I think there is a bubble right now. Maybe the new Speedmaster versions being released (Dark side, FOIS, '57 etc) are driving up the interest in the classic speedy pro.