Rocketeer

Cousins don't keep much in sapphire but they do a 40mm HWS acrylic that should fit if you're friend is really stuck, I just tried one on a mini fiddy case from a 233 and it fits. There are some sapphires out there, the recent 233 release was available with sapphire, I have one here. Do you have a dealer who is friendly regarding parts supply? If you're stuck drop me a line.

Which movement is it S? the low beat does take different hand sizing from the 28,800

First step would be to try running a flat bottom tap down the threads to see if they can be refreshed. If that doesn't work, you then hope that you have the usual 1.6mm size screws at the moment so that you can take them out to the 2mm that many have- drill, tap and fit new screws.

'JOA' is Vac. look under our modders here.

What size is the movement? Ideally you should try and get a couple of notches or a groove machined at the needed height to allow you to use clamps or screws. If you don't have a local friendly machine shop, notches could be done very carefully with a cutting wheel on a dremel type tool.

As has been said - either get another back plate that has the dial feet already attached or if you can't do that, use dial dots. Fixing new dial feet to a dial is not something for the inexperienced. You need to be exactly right in your positioning, which really requires making up a jig, and have adequate tools to finish the dial back around the feet to a flat surface to permit correct fitting for the dial.

Not usually a big fan of the submersible range, but that one is really nice.

Depends on who made the case. To get something that works rather than is perfect :- M1.4 x 2 most Rad lugs. Most need either a stop spacer machined in or an extra long head to bring it level with the case. M1.6 x 3 or M2 x 3 for crown guard screws The dificult bit on both is the head diameter, much smaller than DIN std spec. As for screw bars, I've got at least six variations of thread, diameter, thread length etc. etc. I even have two cases from the same factory, one SS and one Ti, that have differing, non-interchangable screw bars. Probably the reason so many get the threads stripped.

Many thanks D, pm'd you.

No cape. The rocket flames would set it on fire. I much prefer what I usually have over my shoulder.

Please use my email - Rocketeer@RRWP.co.uk - for reserving a place on a run or any other questions as that's the only way I can properly keep track of everyone enquiring or booking.

I've been in touch with Chieftang again and we are going to bounce some emails back and forth and sort out the best procedure for shipping, minimising additional fees on money transfer and run update info once in the US. Initially I'll need twenty confirmed crystals, so email me and I'll start the list and give all on it a weekly update on the numbers. If you want me to remove/refit the crystal for you It's an additional $15 for a bare case, or $30 from a complete watch. AR removal (from Sapphire only) is $10 Any other information about the service is in Chieftangs FAQ section.

At the moment the only AR work I have done in the UK is on new custom sapphires and is done by the sapphire manufacturer as part of the package. Maybe I'll have to press them again to do just coating, now the

That the confusion, there were a number of A series dial styles. Historical A etched - filled to just below the surface, Historical A etched - filled to just above the surface, and contemporary A just printed on top. and pictures do so easily distort the depth perspective.

There's plenty of lip there for a crystal claw to lift that one. You do find some that need to be popped off by pumping air in through the stem tube.