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marlin22

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Posts posted by marlin22

  1. Hi Everyone,
     
    I just couldn't wait any longer, I put together all the spare parts I had lying around and had to put this thing together. Unfortunately I did not have all the parts to match the case so you will notice the dial is a little large for the case and I had to trim down the hands so they wouldn't hit the bezel. However I just needed to see how this thing was going to look assembled. The movement bridge is one of my test bridges so it too is not perfect, but since I got bit by the vintage bug I have loved the look of the 3646 Brevettato, so I just could no longer contain myself. Here are all the pictures, though not perfect it looks great.
     
    This watch was my inspiration.....
    Rahmen_Bild_VP2_011_zps15c8dd4d.jpg
    3503646WW_zpsb857c105.jpg
     
    It's a modem burner, so here we go.....
     
    3646_6_zps9ec6e9de.jpg
    3646_4_zps67984559.jpg
    3646_3_zps722dc582.jpg
    3646_1_zpse113657c.jpg
    3646_2_zps2e8c523e.jpg
    3646_35_zpse543c493.jpg
    3646_34_zps5b5c9782.jpg
    3646_32_zps7326075e.jpg
     
    Made my own front and back crystals from some of the old Molly pocket watches I had. They were so old and weathered I couldn't pass them up. I trimmed them down and vuala, nothing more vintage than vintage..
     
    3646_5_zps291e2d3c.jpg
    3646_29_zpsb64d50a3.jpg
     
    Here are some close ups of the dial I made with rodium burns at 3:41 to simulate where the hands were sitting for a very long time while the watch sat undiscovered for years. You'll notice the hour hand left a stronger imprint because it sits closer to the dial.
     
    3646_28_zps6e222120.jpg
    3646_25_zps0926a388.jpg
     
    Too bad the "ROLEX" engraving came out so bad, the rest of the engravings were pretty good..
     
    3646_17_zps2ecb91ee.jpg
    3646_18_zps262e35cc.jpg
    3646_20_zpsfff96dd9.jpg
    3646_19_zpsf542f2dc.jpg
    3646_16_zps9545efa6.jpg
     
    Finally, the vintage lume seen thru the cracked indices
     
    [3646_36_zps925ed74c.jpg
     
    Thanks for looking.......

     

    • Like 3
  2. UPDATE:

    Here is the balance [censored] engraving I just finished, seen next to some gen Rolex type 1 movements I can see I did a little more than I needed to. I will remove the smaller indices and make the letters bigger. R&D is the best part of the whole build, slowly seeing things fall into place is priceless.....

    Very close now, just waiting on more moments to arrive and maybe sometime next week I'll have some up for grabs.

    Balance_zps41830be7.jpg

     

  3. OK, I've been perplexed with this whole CDG issue since I was bitten by the vintage watch bug. So after a great deal of R&D I think I am finally getting it down. My intent is to decorate the 3602s with the engravings then CDG finish, then either nickel or rhodium plate. I think vintage watches are better and more accurate if nickle plated. I might also be able to fix the engraving issue with the 3601 if I can touch up the bridges with the CDG. This is just me thinking out loud, doesn't mean I can do it, but I wanted to share the progress with everyone. Here are some pictures.
     
    Here is a look at other tests I've done to get a feel for spacing and different finish textures
    CDG4_zpsd483b09c.jpg
     
    Here is one that is getting very close to what I want, it is unfinished brass. Next I will do a quick nickle plating on it to see how it looks.
    CDG1_zps0ec6eb7e.jpg
     
    Here it is with a quick and dirty nickle plating.
    CDG2_zps612b85bd.jpg
     
    It still needs much refinement but it is definitely a step forwards.......
     
    Confined it will work on the 3602 bridges, here are pictures of a set of badly worn down set of bridges I was using for testing the engraving. Can't wait to try it with some untouched bridges!! Have a few coming so once I receive them I'll go to town and post the results.
    CDG6_zps436f9557.jpg
    CDG5_zps11c47ccf.jpg
  4. Well after a great deal of R&D here is the prototype. This is the 3602, I shaved down the bridges to remove the Russian engraving and added my own. Then gave it a quick nickle plating. I need to refine how I shave down the bridges so as not to go so deep and need to work on the brushed bridge finish. I probably will not be able to remove the Russian text on the CDG movements, but I will try some different things I have in mind. Sure wish I could find a way to do CDG, anyone out there know what kind of bit is used? Here are some quick and dirty pictures.
     
    MOLLY-PROTO_5_zpsbd6de2af.jpg
    MOLLY-PROTO_4_zps5642d93f.jpg
    MOLLY-PROTO_3_zps7b064092.jpg
    MOLLY-PROTO_2_zps797f7405.jpg
    MOLLY-PROTO_1_zps03152ea0.jpg
    MOLLY-PROTO_6_zps82790c8d.jpg
    • Like 1
  5. Hi everyone,
     
    Some months back I was approached by one of the forum members to build a series of watches for him and some of his friends. After quite a bit of collaboration between all the parties involved we have come to the prototype stage. 
     
    The watch started off as a PAM 375N, I bead blasted the brown PVD/DLC coating off and left it with the bead bast finish. I put in one of my all Asian movements in it with the ETA markings and put on some custom engraving on the case between the lugs with the series name on one side and the XXX/007 on the other. It's the first prototype so some changes will be made to the next watch.
     
    Did notice I screwed up the paperwork it is suppose to say "LIMITED EDITION" not SPECIAL EDITION, my bad easy fix.
     
    Please feel free to comment and let me know your thoughts..
     
    SSE_1_zps6c8393a8.jpg
    SSE_28_zps749fbd75.jpg
    SSE_26_zps8cd05b38.jpg
    SSE_9_zps9c093fd2.jpg
    SSE_7_zpse5b30392.jpg
    SSE_5_zps6a666d0f.jpg
    SSE_8_zps002397bc.jpg
    SSE_4_zps7becc729.jpg
    SSE_12_zps0f6639de.jpg
    SSE_3_zpsf69ff8a1.jpg
    SSE_30_zps3e910c2e.jpg
    SSE_31_zpsd9a9093f.jpg
    SSE_29_zpsc70cc9f8.jpg
     
    The engraving work, still looking into different techniques to use to get the engraving deeper. The engraving turned out to be a great deal harder than I expected it to be specially on a curved suface, but will continue to perfect it.
    SSE_16_zpsdf97c100.jpg
    SSE_13_zps5d0b81f6.jpg
     
    SSE_33_zps8ec03f34.jpg
    SSE_19_zps6c9f8e61.jpg
     
    My all Asian movement, everything you see are Asian parts moded to look gen. If you look closely under the balance wheel you can see the ETA markings I have that engraving perfected.
    SSE_17_zps1afe3019.jpg
    SSE_18_zps56ea58f8.jpg
    SSE_15_zpsb0cbf729.jpg
    SSE_14_zpsaca02d68.jpg
    SSE_21_zpsf08e6589.jpg
     
    SSE_10_zps0d032378.jpg
     
     
    Thanks for looking........
  6. Thats a lot of work going on there mate..well done.... :)

     

    Its nice to know that there will be another option on remarking the plates on the Molly.... that looks like the font size for the Spiral Breguet would it not have been easier to go with the smaller fonted 'Rolex' with the '17 Rubis.Fab Suisse' only rather than try the Swiss Made and 17 Rubis and Fab Suisse etc? I just mean there must be less work that way ...

     

    I suppose it goes on what your looking to use it on of course is it for the 3646 or is the case irrelevant?  And if so which one mate...Tell us your plan :) :) ;)

     

    Great work ..look forward to the next thread update :)

    Pete, I am taking on the hardest first, from there it's all down hill. Below you will see what I am after with this one.

    authentic_panerai_9m_zpsa409b0fe.jpg

    authentic_panerai_9k_zps9d954916.jpg

     

    When I am done I hope to be able to do all 3 of these variants, but it's going to take time.

    converted6497_zps61de52a4.jpg

  7. Hi Everyone,
     
    I've been getting lots of questions about the white faced PAMs like the 113 and 114, not to mention I have always liked the look and been patiently waiting for the chance to build myself one and offer it in the future, so here it is. This is the All Asian version now with the ETA marking on the main plate with running serial number. 
     
    Get your modems ready and enjoy the pictures......
    113H_6_zpsce3b3fff.jpg
    113H_3_zps1f74aad0.jpg
    113H_2_zpsd5d2126a.jpg
    113H_4_zps9583e85a.jpg
    113H_5_zps2eee8ea9.jpg
    113H_9_zpseb991b28.jpg
    113H_8_zps93dc56c0.jpg
    113H_7_zpsf91c55e4.jpg
    113H_21_zps552cc7d1.jpg
    113H_18_zpsc4f64a39.jpg
    113H_17_zps171d82ad.jpg
    113H_15_zps5d1e24c3.jpg
    113H_14_zps7e1f8caa.jpg
    113H_16_zpsb43d384c.jpg
    113H_13_zps60a5c6a4.jpg
    113H_12_zps00f66e66.jpg
    113H_24_zps1d83a79f.jpg
    113H_23_zpsd4f685cc.jpg
    113H_19_zpsb7ec956d.jpg
    113H_20_zps19d0f305.jpg
    113H_11_zps41f985c5.jpg
    113H_10_zps7c2792c8.jpg
    113H_1_zps8559778d.jpg
    113H_28_zpsc4fdedcb.jpg
    113H_26_zpsc763ec4c.jpg
    113H_25_zps7ef1d2e1.jpg
    113H_27_zps942d4476.jpg
     
    Thanks for looking............
  8. I want to buy a new fully modded PAM 111 N Noob V3 directly from a well know watchmaker with the following modifications:

     

    Incabloc Y shape fix ,

    Longer swan neck screw replaced ,

    Swan neck end side shaped ,

    Swan spring shaped ,

    1st to 3rd wheel brushed ,

    Crown wheel & rachet wheel polish works (Asian parts) ,

    Cannon pin flatten & polished ,

    Movement serviced & regulated (+1/day now) ,

    Water resistance mod works & testing to 5ATM .

     

    Are these modifications  worth the total investment of $800 (incl.watch)? The Noob V3 is already a very good rep, which i want to buy for my collection, and i want to know if the mods are really adding value to the watch.

    I know they are improving the quality of the watch, but is it necessary?

    Is that price for a Swiss modded watch or just Asian?

  9. UPDATE:
     
    For those of you keeping up with the progress, here is a pen test I just preformed. I loaded a ball point pen into the collet and ran the CAD/CAM program script I put together. Please note, the ball point on the pen is still too large in diameter to print the characters correctly so it bundles them up.  The lines to be engraved on the characters need to be .2mm or 0.0078 of an inch thick in order to achieve the desired effect. but it seems the size is correct and from the little I can make out the characters and font seem good. I am waiting on some micro end mills, micro diamond tips and micro profilers and hopefully some time next week I can try this on a movement.
    CNCPentest_zpsd2149038.jpg
     
    On the left you can see another test I ran with the fonts being too large to look correct, however you can distinguish the numbers better.
    CNCPentest2_zps1de7cdc2.jpg
     
    To be continued........
    • Like 1
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